Dating my old clutch & flywheel

I just ran a tap into the holes (I think it was M10x1). I replaced my clutch about 6 weeks ago as part of an engine rebuild. As I recall, I purchased new bolt that had preapplied blue loctite on them. I know the TIS referred to stretch, but I kind of think that was for another version as the bolts are torqued to a torque, not an angle. By the way, the new clutch worked great!

Damn, I should've bought a tap. I measured M12 x 1.5 pitch, maybe I'll make one more trip across town....

Whew... finished the hardest part Thursday night. I managed to find a properly sized threading tap in town and cleaned out the dried precoat adhesive from the flywheel bolt holes.

Bolting on the new flywheel and clutch-related stuff was easy. Using a floor jack to get that 85 pound transmission back up in there while working on my side under the car was not, but I managed.

I plan to take it easy for the first week or so because the clutch etc. needs a break-in period, but today I did drive 30 miles around the outskirts of town in a variety of road conditions, including stop-n-go and bypass speeds. Happy to say things are much nicer. No more jerky starts from a dead stop, period. Clutch feels more predictable. Car downshifts -much- better, too and is smoother at all speeds I drove. I still feel the slightest hint of lash shifting from 1st to 2nd but it is nothing like it was before. I'll post an update to this after everything has settled in.

Congrats Pete! But wow! for the new meaning of diligent work replacing a clutch . I could use some of your technique when I do mine.

Originally Posted by 16valex

Congrats Pete! But wow! for the new meaning of diligent work replacing a clutch . I could use some of your technique when I do mine.

I guess it depends on the tools you use and the approach to each part of the process. At the animal level, I just resigned myself to getting really dirty, cussing a lot, and using brute force.

But I did learn a few things too, so when you decide to go through with this, I do have a few small tips to share.

If I had to do it all over again (please God noooo....), I would probably still do it the same way, given my own circumstances.

Congrats on getting it done.

If you did it right ... shouldn't have to go back in there for years +

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Jase007

If you did it right ...

Yeah I guess at least for the next few nights I'll probably lose sleep wondering, did I torque everything right or not?

There's a lot to unbolt and put back on, and as many torque settings to remember and forget.


By the way .... Before this work my car engine had a mild slow-frequency rattle when idling, close to what I might have thought to be random pinging or a loose timing chain. That sound (or its source) is gone. Can old flywheels make noises?

Rattling at idle is typically the throwout bearing ( loose fitting to guide tube) being worn / shot. An easy way to test is depress clutch (at idle) and see if noise goes away ....

My old DMF with 170k didn't rattle at idle.

My new DMF (now with 30k on it) didn't rattle new .. or in its current state.

My old throwout bearing, guidetube, pivot pin were all shot.

Replaced when I was "in there".

Originally Posted by Jase007

Rattling at idle is typically the throwout bearing ( loose fitting to guide tube) being worn / shot. An easy way to test is depress clutch (at idle) and see if noise goes away ....

My old DMF with 170k didn't rattle at idle.

My new DMF (now with 30k on it) didn't rattle new .. or in its current state.

My old throwout bearing, guidetube, pivot pin were all shot.

Replaced when I was "in there".

Probably it was the throw-out, then. That and the old fork and the guide tube had all developed polished metal surfaces from friction on one side. All replaced with new and silent. Inside the car I never noticed though whether the noise went away when pressing the clutch; seemed to be more of a rattle that I heard when standing outside the car. I'm relieved that it's gone; the engine just purrs.

"I'll post an update to this after everything has settled in".

Hey, don't forget about us. Very interested in your opinion.

Well I was drivin' down the highway, pressed the clutch and the dang driveshaft fell out.

Okay better save that line for later.... The car feels far better now. I have been doing other things to it and forgot about this thread. Can't really add much to the post you cited other than to say I probably had to adjust more than the new clutch did. I think I had developed a fairly nervous clutch foot to compensate, and needed to just lose that.

No more jerky starts and almost no perceptible lash now, which is what I was after. Shifts are smooth as can be, engagement feels instantaneous but I have more control, more pedal range than before, and the car even likes downshifting.

I don't know how much of the past sloppiness I can attribute to the old flywheel or particularly the throw-out bearing, which was obviously dragging and rattling and probably aggravated the dull reponsiviness of my semi-DBW throttle.

My passenger (wife) has noticed the benefits of the clutch job and comments that the car drives so much smoother now.

To put icing on this cake, a few days ago I greased the hinge pivot on the top of the accelerator pedal and tightened the bowden cable to the throttle body. Given the "hybrid" drive-by-wire design on the MY '99 and '00 528i models with manual trans (dunno about the autos), up to now I'd assumed adjusting the bowden cable would have little or no benefit but decided to try it and see.

Car still idles at the same (about 750) rpm but the lag in throttle response is gone along with that last little sensation of lash shifting from 1st to 2nd.

I'm happy now...

Originally Posted by pleiades

My passenger (wife) has noticed the benefits of the clutch job and comments that the car drives so much smoother now.

To put icing on this cake, a few days ago I greased the hinge pivot on the top of the accelerator pedal and tightened the bowden cable to the throttle body. Given the "hybrid" drive-by-wire design on the MY '99 and '00 528i models with manual trans (dunno about the autos), up to now I'd assumed adjusting the bowden cable would have little or no benefit but decided to try it and see.

Car still idles at the same (about 750) rpm but the lag in throttle response is gone along with that last little sensation of lash shifting from 1st to 2nd.

I'm happy now...

Every little bit helps, but good to hear the boss is happy with you.

Originally Posted by pleiades

The DMF019 for $375 new & free shipping, felt stupid -not- to go for it.... Just hope I get it soon as some of the neighbors have started commenting on the 5er on jackstands in the driveway.

Pete,

Can you tell me where did you get a new DMF for such good price? I'm collecting parts for Spring clutch work.

Thanks man..

Alex it was Partsgeek.com but I suspect their prices may have gone up.

Which six are you going to replace the clutch on?

[edit...] I see you say your 530i clutch was slipping. If that's the one, partgeek price has jumped about $50 (but free shipping).

Originally Posted by pleiades

Alex it was Partsgeek.com but I suspect their prices may have gone up.

Which six are you going to replace the clutch on?

[edit...] I see you say your 530i clutch was slipping. If that's the one, partgeek price has jumped about $50 (but free shipping).

Thank you Pete! I saw you were on E46fanatics forum the other day. What business do you have over there? Are you looking for an E46???

Would you happen to have those part number for the stick shift bushing, them seals and Rear main seal?

I plan to replace every thing under the sun while I'm at it. Oh and the drive shaft stuffs too.

Guibo, Center bearing, sleeve and what else.
Thanks in advance Pete.

I did have a fairly large "project" file with all that stuff in my PelicanParts account but I've already deleted all the things I bought and replaced. Probably a mistake as who knows, I may have to dive back in some day, but so far all is good.

Best bet is to use realoem.com with the last 7 digits of your VIN to get the exact part numbers for -your- car. I don't know if the 530i will be any different or not (probably not, but just can't say 100%).

I hang out at e46fanatics because *most* of their cars use the same engines as the e39 sixes.

I hang out at e46fanatics because *most* of their cars use the same engines as the e39 sixes.

That's true!