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5 Series DIY
Knowledge Is Power! ~ The place for do-it-yourself threads on a variety of topics. Start a thread describing a particular job (oil change, cooling system overhaul, brakes, shocks and springs, etc.) or search for one you need help with!

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  #326  
Old 12-02-2010, 12:22 PM
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chiefwej chiefwej is offline
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Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,296
Mein Auto: 2003 540i/6 //m-tech
And use a little lube (dish soap, silicone, KY or whatever) to help get it in place. I used dish soap and it worked fine.
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  #327  
Old 12-03-2010, 08:01 PM
friedhushpuppy friedhushpuppy is offline
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Location: Austin, TX
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Thanks 99! Marking for inspection of both sides is an excellent idea. I also have the "old" piece still and can see if it lies flat. Any idea what "grabs" the channel to hold the trim in?

FHP.
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  #328  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:01 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Sorry, I don't recall what the channel looks like...likely just a metal springy piece that expands but I just don' remember.
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2001 530i/5 (E39), Topaz Blue/Stone Green/Black (118k miles) *very rare interior/exterior color combo*
2005 545i/SMG (E60), ED Order, Titanium Grey/Grey (lease over)
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  #329  
Old 02-20-2011, 02:47 PM
Al B Bach Al B Bach is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW
First I have to say sorry for bringing up an old thread.....
I have had this problem three times on two of the Bimmers I own, my M5 (2000) and M3 (2004). Both have shown this natural rubber rot problem on the windshield. Now my M Roadster is showing this around the window seals.... so in reality its twice on the 5, once on the 3 and now the Roadster. GRRRR. I have used Gummi Fledge for the last two years, and it helps a lot, but in the end it does not prevent the eventual rot, even on new parts.
Now in fairness, I do live in a high heat area but I do park the cars in my garage so they don't bake in the sun.
Now to the point, replacment of the parts is not that hard nor is it that expensive (if you DIY), just time consuming for the DIYer and a general PIA to have to do it considering what these cars are and cost. It just shouldn't happen in my book. As someone else pointed out 'a POS 1968 car has better rubber!' That's disturbing that another car company makes better seal componet than BMW and it does not rot! Further, I'm disgusted that BMW won't take responsibility for it and repair it AT NO CHARGE to their costumer base, mostly because it IS a faulty material part in the first place. The slap in the face is dealing with BMW.... If you have them do it they charge four times the amount of what the job is worth, I've even had the local dealer tell me they would have to remove the windscreen. Anybody that has DIY on the E39 body knows that is a flat down fib. Don't get me going on the part mark up they charge! Better to buy it from a out source.
OK... I vented, off my soap box.... Has anyone ever had success with BMW, as pointed out in the earlier part of this thread, with getting a positive response. The point that BMW has not had enough complaints on this issue is beyond silly. Yes, I have complained and called and written. If you go to any older 5 series and look at the windscreen, 8 out of 10 will shown this problem. How can BMW ignor that? Even Japanese car companies goodwill parts on car long out of warrenty standing, I know this for a fact! I would certainly expect a high end German company to stand up and good will a $30 faulty part! Audi does, VW does, Mercedes Benz does, so what's up BMW?
Again, if anyone has had success with this issue please share the news as I'm sure it would be helpful to other owners that have this issue. If not, I fear we will be fending out hard earned monies on a worthless part that will fail in the end.

Last edited by Al B Bach; 02-20-2011 at 02:55 PM.
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  #330  
Old 05-24-2011, 02:11 PM
mark5 mark5 is offline
2000 528i w/sport package
Location: DE
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 66
Mein Auto: 2000 528i
Just did the front moldings/covers (did it dry no soap ) easy as pie just use a shop vac and mineral spirits to clean channel and line up new molding ,I started at top rt corner and then went down side then other side just use the heel of your hand and the top pops right in ! NOW I need to know for SURE if the rear works the same way? ( without removing glass ) problem is I got a small leak in rear window BUT my sunroof broke ,mechanism, so the sunroof is not closing tightly ? so is the leak the sunroof or the rear glass???????
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Last edited by mark5; 05-24-2011 at 02:14 PM.
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  #331  
Old 05-25-2011, 08:46 PM
Al B Bach Al B Bach is offline
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Mark5,
Unfortunately, if you wish to replace the rear seal it is a one piece.... so removal of the window seems to be the norm as far as I understand and can see. I can't say this is true on all models as I have never done the rear seal. Unlike the front 'cover' it is a true seal and by what I can tell by ALLDATA and RealOEM.com it is a wrapped seal that emcompasses the glass. I also recall reading this somewhere in this thread or elsewhere in the forum as I was going to tackle mine as well because my corner seals had gotten brittle. I used Gummi Phledge instead and got them pliable again. It does plauge US E39 owners with the natural rubber rotting. The front is the worst, but the corners in the rear also suffer the rot. Gummi Phledge is a good preventative to the rot if you can get it local. If not you can get it here http://www.1z-usa.com/ , really worth the invest.
Next on the front seal.... I hope you won't run into probs down the line since you used mineral spirt to clean with, it will dissolve the sealent on the winndshield and break it down over the long haul. It may also cause a discoloration or breakdown of the laminate shield within the safety glass. Hopefully you just used it sparingly on a soft rag and wiped up excess quickly. Just giving you a 'possible' heads up and hope nothing will occure. For future I would recommed a little Dawn/water 1 - 10 ratio in a spritz bottle for clean up with soft brush followed by clean water wash. Use a little tire mount cream to install seals and wipe excess. Drys clean and won't damage paint or componet. Next apply fresh wax to area to protect paint finish.
On the leak.... it may be possible that it may be a drain hose from the sunroof casset. Repair is easy, but time consuming. You might notice a water stain on the C pillar, rear seat deck or headliner area that may look like a rear windshield leak if it is in the upper corners. If it runs down the inner windshield glass on to the seat deck, then it might be a glass seal leak indeed. I hope not. You can check this with a friend by SLOWLY running some water on the suspect area(s) while you are on the inside and your friend trickles the water from the outside. If it doesn't show around the glass, then move to the sunroof seal and allow water to flow into the water channels on the side. They are designed to run a SMALL amount of water past the felt seal, so don't flood it or you will get a leak! Remember this is for test purpose so do it slowly. Think like a gentle rain just in case it is not sealing properly. From the inside you should know if it is leaking from the drain hose. It may be possible that the drain cup and hose may be plugged with junk or mold and causeing the channel to flood. This is an easy fix if that is the case with some compressed air. If the hose needs to be replaced.... well that is more timely and will require the removal of the headliner and possible the casset itself to get at the drain cup. The set up is very similar to the E46 body so that should give you an idea of what to expect if you have to do that job.
In the end repairing right is the way to go if you have the coin and the time, but there is the inexpensive way to go as far as a get me by..... Silicon sealent. If you're careful you can do a nice job and it won't look to bad. I do mention this as it is a temporary fix, and I have seen some ugly attemps at doing it this way and in the long run is harder to clean up when you can fix it right.
I hope I helped and gave you some ideas,
Cheers, ABB
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  #332  
Old 05-25-2011, 10:49 PM
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chafik11 chafik11 is offline
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Location: ny
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 310
Mein Auto: 1999 528i sport manual
i just did mine today, i went to auto glass shop and he was about to start removing the whole glass.
actualy lot of auto glass shops refused to do it judt because they worried of damaging the glass.
thanks to you guys for all the information that you have provided, i explained to the tech person how to do it. at first i was worried if the glass brakes, but it was very easy it took less than 20mns.
they also install for me AC schnitzer spoiler(OEM ofcourse), splash gards front (R,L) all that for $80.
yesterday i installeed M5 mirrors (OEM of course) what a difference, and i installed door handels lights. i will take some pictures soon.
again i just want to say thank you all for sharing your knoowldge with all of us.
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  #333  
Old 06-21-2011, 01:27 PM
fawcettstacy fawcettstacy is offline
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Location: San Diego
 
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Mein Auto: 325i
Unhappy Windshield seal

I'm embarrassed that my car is less than 5 years old and the seal gives it the appearance of a much older vehicle. My research shows that it will cost around $300 and BMW won't cover it. I sent an email to Leonora.Vlaovich@bmwna.com and received an autoreply that my message was not delivered due to "too many hops". I think I'm going to "arrange a crack to be fixed" in my windshield, which is covered by insurance. That should get me a new seal.
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  #334  
Old 06-21-2011, 02:51 PM
MexicoBeachBmer MexicoBeachBmer is offline
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Location: Mexico Beach, Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 2009 750i
Please read all of the posts on this subject! The seal is not a SEAL. It is not what keeps the rain out. It is, for the most part, decorative. You can do this repair yourself for only the cost of the parts. Front and back on mine took all of 20 minutes! You do not have to pull the windshield!!!
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  #335  
Old 10-07-2011, 06:32 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the crosslinked record, even the E60 apparently suffers from this BMW engineering flaw!

- E60 (2004 - 2010) > Deteriorated Window Trim DIY
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  #336  
Old 03-01-2012, 02:30 PM
Lilblue32479 Lilblue32479 is offline
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Location: Arkansas
 
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 528i
Crappy rear weatherstripping seal

I own a 2008 bmw 528i. The rear weatherstripping is almost completely gone. While driving down the road you can literally watch chunks fly off. I have been quoted from $500-$1200 to fix this. Its ridiculous that there are this many people with the same problem.

Today i took a shot and called another glass company and i am getting a new complete rear glass with seal for $275 bc the guy feels sorry for me bc of all the problems i have had.
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  #337  
Old 05-05-2012, 06:20 AM
tedmcm tedmcm is offline
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Location: long island ny
 
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Mein Auto: 2003 525i sport
windshileld weather stripping shot

My 2003 525i winshield weather stripping crumbling away. To add to it my headlamps are glazed over. Makes the car look like crap. What can I do?
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  #338  
Old 05-31-2012, 02:40 PM
csrajput csrajput is offline
Charan
Location: Aliso Viejo, CA
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 BMW 525i
Hi Guys,

I have a 2004 BMW 525i (E60) with the same problem as everyone else in SoCal like weather has. So, today I tried replacing the covers on windshield and rear glass. I could remove the rear glass cover fairly easily without any damage. However, for the front glass, I noticed there isn't enough room to remove the cover. So I tried to push a screw driver in the top left corner to remove the cover. And I broke the windshield. I did not push too hard, but still it chipped at that corner and it cracked and the crack ran the entire length of the windshield within 10-15 minutes. The cover is still there and I dont have enough courage to remove it now I am having to replace the whole windshield now. Irvine as well as Crevier BMW quoted the cost of replacement at over $1600. So here I am, trying to be cheap replacing a $20 cover and ending up with the bill of $1600.

Guys, please know what you are trying to do and learn from my BAD experience. Try to do it from a professional. DO NOT END UP LIKE ME PAYING $1600...

- Charan

Update: I had the windshield replaced today. And I watched the guy do it. Even this professional guy could not remove the windshield cover without breaking the glass. So if you have a 2004 BMW 525i (E60) then know that the cover cannot be removed easily without removing the windshield. So donot try it at your own.

Last edited by csrajput; 06-14-2012 at 04:05 PM.
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  #339  
Old 08-13-2013, 06:05 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Location: Bay Area, CA
 
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I see this hasn't been posted to in a while but I'd like to sum up things.

First, I speak from an E39 point of view.

These are not water/weather seals. The caulk/glue/adhesive/whatever-you-call-it is what weatherproofs the glass to the metal. These are covers or if you like, moldings. They provide a clean finished look (when new only, apparently, since most of us have our molding crumbling into nothing).

I've replaced this cover on my front windshield two times. I did both myself. Having plastic wedging/prying type tools is a must. Harbor Freight sells some cheap but very good plastic prying tools.

The rear cover was replaced by a pro and he insisted that the rear glass needed to be removed so he did. I've since seen others here claim that that is not necessary. I can verify this as I went ahead and replaced the rear glass cover myself. Again, plastic prying tools are a must.

I guess I'm getting about 5-6 years out of a cover before it starts cracking, drying up, and falling apart.

Installation tends to go faster than removal as it depends how much things have deteriorated. Pay attention as you remove it...you MUST get all chunks of rubber and embedded metal or you'll never get the new one seated properly.

Sometimes, if the glass has been removed, using too much adhesive can nearly permanently embed the cover onto the glass and make it very difficult to remove. I guess I was lucky with my rear glass--I was able to remove the cover despite the glass having been removed 6 years ago to replace the cover. YMMV.
__________________
2001 530i/5 (E39), Topaz Blue/Stone Green/Black (118k miles) *very rare interior/exterior color combo*
2005 545i/SMG (E60), ED Order, Titanium Grey/Grey (lease over)
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  #340  
Old 08-29-2013, 10:55 AM
fraktv fraktv is offline
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Location: San Jose, CA
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 2007 530i
Quote:
Originally Posted by csrajput View Post
Hi Guys,

I have a 2004 BMW 525i (E60) with the same problem as everyone else in SoCal like weather has. So, today I tried replacing the covers on windshield and rear glass. I could remove the rear glass cover fairly easily without any damage. However, for the front glass, I noticed there isn't enough room to remove the cover. So I tried to push a screw driver in the top left corner to remove the cover. And I broke the windshield. I did not push too hard, but still it chipped at that corner and it cracked and the crack ran the entire length of the windshield within 10-15 minutes. The cover is still there and I dont have enough courage to remove it now I am having to replace the whole windshield now. Irvine as well as Crevier BMW quoted the cost of replacement at over $1600. So here I am, trying to be cheap replacing a $20 cover and ending up with the bill of $1600.

Guys, please know what you are trying to do and learn from my BAD experience. Try to do it from a professional. DO NOT END UP LIKE ME PAYING $1600...

- Charan

Update: I had the windshield replaced today. And I watched the guy do it. Even this professional guy could not remove the windshield cover without breaking the glass. So if you have a 2004 BMW 525i (E60) then know that the cover cannot be removed easily without removing the windshield. So donot try it at your own.
You have to use a plastic spatchula, or something not metal to prevent cracking/chipping. I removed my front seal with zero issues and was able to install the $20 OEM trim without any problems.
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  #341  
Old 09-01-2013, 12:18 PM
wiredawg100 wiredawg100 is offline
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Location: USA, Georgia
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i (E-39)
What is part # 2 (51311925433)

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdawg183 View Post
Yea but it didn't do this before I pulled the "cover" out from around the edge of the windshield. To me it looks as though the window was replaced at some point and the person who replaced it put the cover around the window before they set it on the car. So with the way it was, the cover was acting as my window seal at points.
RUBBER BUFFER D = 11.1 3 51311925433 $1.10

2001 (525I/E39)

I too have the same issues with my rubber windshield molding cover front & back, wanted to tackled it this weekend. But can someone clarify what part #2 is & how to use it. In the diagram it says quantity 3. I ordered from bavauto.com and it says the note below:

(Note : These are only required when replacing or resealing the windshield. Please note: 3 required)

2 problems for me at the moment.
First I have no idea what I'm suppose to do with these pieces. It appears to have a sticky-back. But I'm having a heck-of-a-time lifting the cover to expose the sticky part...appears to be a 3m product...
Second they only sent me 1, the other 2 on back order....lol

Also, it appears not to be required for the back windshield molding.

I didn't see any mention of these items in this thread. Though, with the plethora of info I could have missed it.
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  #342  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:15 AM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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I have no idea what those small pieces are. I never did anything but buy the cover and rip out the old, install the new. I don't think they are needed as far as I can tell. It says right above that part that it is for vehicles with "protective glazing" which to me means the thicker, heavier glass that is available for E39s. I had a buddy who installed the heavier glazing (i.e. glass window) on his car doors...not so sure about the front and rear ones, however.
__________________
2001 530i/5 (E39), Topaz Blue/Stone Green/Black (118k miles) *very rare interior/exterior color combo*
2005 545i/SMG (E60), ED Order, Titanium Grey/Grey (lease over)
2015 335i, ED Order Summer 2015

Last edited by Ågent99; 09-03-2013 at 11:17 AM.
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  #343  
Old 09-03-2013, 12:23 PM
wiredawg100 wiredawg100 is offline
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Location: USA, Georgia
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 525i (E-39)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredawg100 View Post
RUBBER BUFFER D = 11.1 3 51311925433 $1.10

2001 (525I/E39)

I too have the same issues with my rubber windshield molding cover front & back, wanted to tackled it this weekend. But can someone clarify what part #2 is & how to use it. In the diagram it says quantity 3. I ordered from bavauto.com and it says the note below:

(Note : These are only required when replacing or resealing the windshield. Please note: 3 required)

2 problems for me at the moment.
First I have no idea what I'm suppose to do with these pieces. It appears to have a sticky-back. But I'm having a heck-of-a-time lifting the cover to expose the sticky part...appears to be a 3m product...
Second they only sent me 1, the other 2 on back order....lol

Also, it appears not to be required for the back windshield molding.

I didn't see any mention of these items in this thread. Though, with the plethora of info I could have missed it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ågent99 View Post
I have no idea what those small pieces are. I never did anything but buy the cover and rip out the old, install the new. I don't think they are needed as far as I can tell. It says right above that part that it is for vehicles with "protective glazing" which to me means the thicker, heavier glass that is available for E39s. I had a buddy who installed the heavier glazing (i.e. glass window) on his car doors...not so sure about the front and rear ones, however.
Thx for the response, I went ahead and replaced my front molding (2001/525i/E39) yesterday and just skipped the "rubber buffer" pieces as I didn't see any place where they may fit into. Took me about 2+ hours, removing it went pretty smooth. Though, I had to be very careful with the metal frame leftover from the old molding that attaches to the windshield. I could not get much leverage from the old rubber molding since it was too brittle. I spent most of my time inserting the new molding, was a little tougher than I thought, not as easy for me as others indicated here. But overall very doable. Hell, if I can do it, anyone can.


1) Carefully removed old molding (20 mins)

2) Cleaned the grooves with car soap and goo-gone. Also, waxed the edges, just because (30 mins)

3) Installed new molding (45 mins). I think it took me so long because I'm a short guy..lol...I could not get the proper leverage to push the molding down, even with a stepper couldn't get a good base balance. Anywho, I managed and it looks decent, a definite improvement.

Materials list:
Front molding from (bavauto.com)($42.00)
-Goo-gone; used to clean the black silicone gunky stuff after removing the old molding
-Car wash soap, for cleaning the goo-gone
-Car waxed, just seem to be a good idea
-Pliers
-Flat-head screw-driver (wrapped the end with several layers of duct tape)
--needed that non-marring pry-tool seen a previous post

Plan on treating the my new molding with some type of protectant, any thoughts?
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  #344  
Old 09-03-2013, 05:00 PM
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Ågent99 Ågent99 is offline
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Look into Gummi Pfledge. I don't know if that would help extend the life of the cover.
__________________
2001 530i/5 (E39), Topaz Blue/Stone Green/Black (118k miles) *very rare interior/exterior color combo*
2005 545i/SMG (E60), ED Order, Titanium Grey/Grey (lease over)
2015 335i, ED Order Summer 2015
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  #345  
Old 09-04-2013, 02:11 PM
wiredawg100 wiredawg100 is offline
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Location: USA, Georgia
 
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Posts: 29
Mein Auto: 2001 525i (E-39)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredawg100 View Post
Thx for the response, I went ahead and replaced my front molding (2001/525i/E39) yesterday and just skipped the "rubber buffer" pieces as I didn't see any place where they may fit into. Took me about 2+ hours, removing it went pretty smooth. Though, I had to be very careful with the metal frame leftover from the old molding that attaches to the windshield. I could not get much leverage from the old rubber molding since it was too brittle. I spent most of my time inserting the new molding, was a little tougher than I thought, not as easy for me as others indicated here. But overall very doable. Hell, if I can do it, anyone can.


1) Carefully removed old molding (20 mins)

2) Cleaned the grooves with car soap and goo-gone. Also, waxed the edges, just because (30 mins)

3) Installed new molding (45 mins). I think it took me so long because I'm a short guy..lol...I could not get the proper leverage to push the molding down, even with a stepper couldn't get a good base balance. Anywho, I managed and it looks decent, a definite improvement.

Materials list:
Front molding from (bavauto.com)($42.00)
-Goo-gone; used to clean the black silicone gunky stuff after removing the old molding
-Car wash soap, for cleaning the goo-gone
-Car waxed, just seem to be a good idea
-Pliers
-Flat-head screw-driver (wrapped the end with several layers of duct tape)
--needed that non-marring pry-tool seen a previous post

Plan on treating the my new molding with some type of protectant, any thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ågent99 View Post
Look into Gummi Pfledge. I don't know if that would help extend the life of the cover.
Okay, thx..will look into it...
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  #346  
Old 10-08-2013, 09:11 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 20,539
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Another user asked today where this excellent thread can be updated by each person who replaces their windshield cover molding...

Quote:
Originally Posted by skylawrr View Post
Hey all, the rubber that wraps around the front windscreen of my 97 535i has badly deteriorated (please see attached pics)

There isnt any leaks ( has been water tested by me and mother nature herself )

My question is, is it a easy diy to replace this rubber ? Take out the old one ? Its really brittle and just place a new one in ? Without having to remove the windscreen ??
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #347  
Old 10-24-2013, 01:49 AM
BIOHazard87 BIOHazard87 is offline
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Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 550i Sport
Coming to chime in that my 2008 550i's weather stripping are destroyed on the front and rear windshields. Pretty disappointing as I've already paid numerous thousands to fix this vehicle, seems BMW can't get much right. Can anyone please link to an easy DIY tutorial? Thanks
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  #348  
Old 06-04-2014, 11:59 AM
CarlosDiaz CarlosDiaz is offline
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Location: Mexico
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: BMW
Thanks for agree me in the forum

Hello, community ...

I wuald like know if somebody have a procedures to changes the Rubber windows that has been crack, I have a BMW serie 5, 530i , and please where I can Buy it.

thanks and best regard community
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  #349  
Old 06-25-2014, 08:59 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This helpful hint was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Word of advice: Windshield trim

Quote:
Originally Posted by hans747 View Post
Hey everyone! Well, it seems I can do nothing right for this car. I tried tackling the windshield trim replacement last night. Easy enough, right? Well, apparently I can change the timing chain on a Nissan, but I can't even install a piece of rubber onto a BMW with hosing it up somehow.

Here's the word of advice: Do not use silicone spray to lube the new rubber before you install the new weather stripping. There is a popular DIY video out there that suggests silicone lube as the product of choice for this job. Now that I've made my mistakes, I can tell you the soapy water is definitely the way to go. Here's why...

The windshield on my car has been reset at some point of its life (OEM glass, but no longer a factory install). As such, two out of three sides of the weather stripping slipped right into place, but the third did not set right. A lot of this comes from the fact that bits of adhesive holding the the windshield in place had squished into the channels, making the seal impossible to fit. Anyway, after lots of fiddling around, I decded to gently coax that piece of weather stripping out of the channel and try to reset it. When I did, I was shocked at how the (presumably) silicone adhesive around the window had started melting. When I pulled the weatherstrip out, it came with a ton of black tarlike material, which was the melted windshield adhersive. Anyway, not wanting to cause any leaks in my windshield, I quickly reset the weatherstrip (badly) and have given the whole thing an evening to dry/settle back into place.

Not sure how I'm going to proceed from here, but I think a new weather strip and a trip to an indy might be in my future. First, I'm going to park the car in the afternoon sun and see if some warmth can't make it all slide back together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Old topic but "BlackBMWs" wrote a DIY clearly stating that soapy water is the way to go...
Quote:
Originally Posted by hans747 View Post
Ditto. I read that post, and it was very descriptive, but the photos left me wondering when it came to the installation part. Hence i resorted to a YouTube DIY on the subject. I'm just throwing this out there to anyone who might find themselves in the same position as I did: standing the in garage with a can of silicone spray right there on the shelf, while the dish soap was alllll the waaaaay upstairs in the kitchen. Trust me, it's worth the short walk. Once the windshield glue goes gummy, the weatherstrip becomes much less workable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
This is good to add to the canonical thread on the windshield cover molding ...
- How to replace crumbling windshield gasket trim windshield cover molding (1) (2)
See also:
- How to remove and replace the windshield (1) & how to align the windscreen based on the BMW TIS (1) & how to replace crumbling windshield gasket trim windshield cover molding (1) (2) to prevent wind noise (1) & how to install or tighten a loose rear view mirror on the glass (1) (2) & how to replace rain sensors (1) (2) (3) & what is double glazing (1) & window glass cleaner fluids & cloths (1) & how to remove Rain-X water wiper streaks & spots on windshield & rearview mirror glass (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf E39 Windshield trim replacement.pdf (1.72 MB, 15 views)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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