Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

Originally Posted by nrigroom

Understand, but my question is with reference to the actuator only. The xDrive system senses vehicle states such as yaw rate, steering angle, wheel rotation speed, and responds by actuating selective braking, torque distribution between rear-and-front axle, and engine throttle override.

That is the xDrive system which, as you noted, can't be overridden. However, it seems that the sole purpose of the transfer case actuator is to allocate torque split between the front and rear axles. It does not involve itself either in braking or in throttle input reduction.

Now, my question is when you toggle the 4x4 button on the dash to it's off position, is the subject actuator not in play? One would logically conclude this based upon the emblem and dash light display assigned to this button. I do understand that other components of the xDrive, viz., selective braking and throttle reduction are still active. This is the only conclusion which makes sense to me, but I am not sure and therefore picking on others' brains.

What I am leading to is this: IF this conclusion is correct, one can get a lot more mileage out of the rotated actuator by keeping the 4x4 button off. I think what'll happen in such a situation is that the vehicle will be RWD, but all other components of the xDrive system will still be active. Of course, keeping the button permanently off defeats the whole purpose of buying a 4x4 vehicle in the first place, but at least I want to know how the system works, and I want to use it as I please. Certainly it is recommended to drive with the system on in rainy or snowy conditions with the exceptions as noted by BMW.

Am I right? Way off?

OK. I follow your question a bit better now, and concur with your conclusion -- if the actuator can be disengaged. However, I still think my original answer applies. And I'll caveat this post by saying my X3 does not have a specific "4x4" button; only a "DTC" button. I'm not sure: do the earlier models of the X3 have a "4x4" button?

Ultimately, though, I still believe that nothing -- no button, regardless of the labeling -- disengages the transfer case actuator. The X3's AWD system is full-time (i.e., always active, regardless of what other features may have been enabled or disabled). Someone else will probably have to chime in about xDrive operation in pre-2007 X3's, if it's different.

Originally Posted by nrigroom

.
When you hit the 4x4 button on the dash, is this actuator completely disengaged from the driveline? Meaning, no load on the worn gear in question?

So what you are asking is, what different effect on the transfer case does hitting the DSC button compared to just undoing the electrical connection to the actuator?

Will either or both result in a default RWD mode?

As the normal drive split is 40/60, isn't it quite possible that with a non-functioning actuator the drive would remain at 40/60?

That way, the range of motion of the actuator to vary the drive to the extremes of 0/100 and 100/0 (or close to) would be less.

More questions than answers.

Not sure what dealers measure or observe when they pull off the connector to determine whether the actuator or the transfer case is bad.

Or if driving with it disconnected, whatever drive mode results, has any undesirable side effects, like driving with DSC off can have. (Not referring to DTC at all.)
( Never did quite understand the warning in the O.M. about driving with DSC off for extended periods and what the system does to avoid over-heated rotors with the extra brake interventions.)

Hey folks,

(I've also started a new post with the same message)

Jeff from Odometer Gears Ltd. I have been following this post and have been requested by many independent shops around the county to work on this problem. I plan on having a permanent fix by producing a replacement gear that will last. Give me about 4-5 months while I tool up. I will post back when the project is complete and the gear is ready.

For those that don't know me, I have been manufacturing small parts to fix cars for about 10 years now. We ONLY sell what we make. NOTHING is brought in from anywhere else. Even my raw material is produced and bought in the US, including tooling. We distribute to all the major wholesalers, WorldPac (now Car Quest), IMC, SSF, Ramac Industries, Bavarian Auto Sport, Pelican Parts, FCP Groton, and others.

I have been an E12 owner for about 14 years and have been a major sponsor of the CCA's BMW O'Fest each year. My goal as a business is to help other DIY's fix their own cars at a reasonable price compared to the dealer. This motor is a dealer only item which runs between $700 to $900 depending on who you know. We should be able to produce the gear for under $100 and offer a lifetime warranty on the part.

If you are interested, email me your contact and I can either include you in the test period and/or let you know when we are ready to go to market with the part.

Thanks everyone.

Jeff Caplan
sales@odometergears.com
www.odometergears.com
757-593-3478

Originally Posted by hamonbagel

Hey folks,

(I've also started a new post with the same message)

Jeff from Odometer Gears Ltd. I have been following this post and have been requested by many independent shops around the county to work on this problem. I plan on having a permanent fix by producing a replacement gear that will last. Give me about 4-5 months while I tool up. I will post back when the project is complete and the gear is ready.

For those that don't know me, I have been manufacturing small parts to fix cars for about 10 years now. We ONLY sell what we make. NOTHING is brought in from anywhere else. Even my raw material is produced and bought in the US, including tooling. We distribute to all the major wholesalers, WorldPac (now Car Quest), IMC, SSF, Ramac Industries, Bavarian Auto Sport, Pelican Parts, FCP Groton, and others.

I have been an E12 owner for about 14 years and have been a major sponsor of the CCA's BMW O'Fest each year. My goal as a business is to help other DIY's fix their own cars at a reasonable price compared to the dealer. This motor is a dealer only item which runs between $700 to $900 depending on who you know. We should be able to produce the gear for under $100 and offer a lifetime warranty on the part.

If you are interested, email me your contact and I can either include you in the test period and/or let you know when we are ready to go to market with the part.

Thanks everyone.

Jeff Caplan
sale@odometergears.com
www.odometergears.com
757-593-3478

Hi, Jeff!

I see you're in the Newport News area; I spent about a year down there on a long-term rotational job assignment back in 1993-94; I liked the area very much.

Anyway, it's good to hear that someone with some production capabilities is eying this replacement part problem. Just to reiterate the primary concern that some (including myself) have with replacement parts in this application: any replacement part probably needs to made of a material that will faithfully reproduce the OEM part in its role as the design failure point in the transfer case (i.e., in case of binding, the gear should fail before any other system component). Metal replacement gears, while they will almost certainly survive for the life of the vehicle, are probably not desirable in this application.

It would also be nice if the replacement gear came as part of a 'refurbishing kit,' that provides the correct lubricant and any cover plates or other parts that may have been destroyed in removal to get to the gear. Just a thought.

I'm not one of those who needs this part -- yet. But I'm sure if you post back in this thread when you're ready to go to market with the part, there will be plenty of interest from the X3 community in providing some assistance in beta testing.

Thanks, and welcome!

Jeff Caplan
please include me in the testing period or if you are ready to sell it i will pay....

Wow. It's been a while since I've checked in on this thread. Man has it taken off! Hopefully my little short-cut has been helping out, but if we can get an actual replacement gear started, now that is the real deal!

I wrote to Jeff to get on the list, just in case.

It will be a plastic gear, in case you were not sure.

For those of you who did the swap, please let Jeff know if there are any specific things on the gear (or perhaps kit) that would help the install and use.

Sounds like he really wants to help us DIYers!

So after reading your post ur so smart....this is exactly what my car is doing @ 62,K so my question is?? Do i need to buy a transfer case and the motor? Or just the motor both parts used r about 1000 outta salvage yard

I too am interested in Jeff's solution!

I'm working on it now. I bought my new actuator from the local dealer. I was able to take it a part with little trouble. I'll be putting a YouTube video together showing how I did it. I've heard all the warnings about making a part that is strong enough to hold up and weak enough to break to prevent other damages. I'll do my best. Unless you have an older car, you may not have heard of me. I've been making and supplying parts for older Euro cars for ten years now. Anything I can find that is an expensive, dealer only item, that can be fixed with a simple part, I try and supply. I make everything I sell myself in VA. NOTHING comes from overseas. One of the cool things about my business is others (like China) try and copy me and don't succeed. Not the other way around. Quality and customer service come first together.

I'm an E12 owner and major sponsor of the BMW CCA O'Fest every year. I started my business because no one would supply me with the small plastic part I needed to do a job myself. My goal is to help the DIY's and independent shops fix cars better than replacing the parts with OEM. Aftermarket doesn't have to mean cheap parts. It's about quality, customer service and saving the end user money. Anytime anyone wants to add their 2 cents to the project, just call. I'm always around. This is not the easiest part to reproduce for sure. If anyone has looked closely at this, there are some serious tolerances that have to be met for this gear to work. I'll do my best.

Thanks all.

Jeff Caplan
757-593-3478
1980 535 T4 turbo family sedan (386 flbs at the wheels)

Hey Jeff

once you are ready to test just contact me i will try it on my x3 with no
problem.......

Sounds good! Any updates?

Originally Posted by hamonbagel

I'm working on it now. I bought my new actuator from the local dealer. I was able to take it a part with little trouble. I'll be putting a YouTube video together showing how I did it. I've heard all the warnings about making a part that is strong enough to hold up and weak enough to break to prevent other damages. I'll do my best. Unless you have an older car, you may not have heard of me. I've been making and supplying parts for older Euro cars for ten years now. Anything I can find that is an expensive, dealer only item, that can be fixed with a simple part, I try and supply. I make everything I sell myself in VA. NOTHING comes from overseas. One of the cool things about my business is others (like China) try and copy me and don't succeed. Not the other way around. Quality and customer service come first together.

I'm an E12 owner and major sponsor of the BMW CCA O'Fest every year. I started my business because no one would supply me with the small plastic part I needed to do a job myself. My goal is to help the DIY's and independent shops fix cars better than replacing the parts with OEM. Aftermarket doesn't have to mean cheap parts. It's about quality, customer service and saving the end user money. Anytime anyone wants to add their 2 cents to the project, just call. I'm always around. This is not the easiest part to reproduce for sure. If anyone has looked closely at this, there are some serious tolerances that have to be met for this gear to work. I'll do my best.

Thanks all.

Jeff Caplan
757-593-3478
1980 535 T4 turbo family sedan (386 flbs at the wheels)

Originally Posted by hamonbagel

I'm working on it now. I bought my new actuator from the local dealer. I was able to take it a part with little trouble. I'll be putting a YouTube video together showing how I did it. I've heard all the warnings about making a part that is strong enough to hold up and weak enough to break to prevent other damages. I'll do my best. Unless you have an older car, you may not have heard of me. I've been making and supplying parts for older Euro cars for ten years now. Anything I can find that is an expensive, dealer only item, that can be fixed with a simple part, I try and supply. I make everything I sell myself in VA. NOTHING comes from overseas. One of the cool things about my business is others (like China) try and copy me and don't succeed. Not the other way around. Quality and customer service come first together.

I'm an E12 owner and major sponsor of the BMW CCA O'Fest every year. I started my business because no one would supply me with the small plastic part I needed to do a job myself. My goal is to help the DIY's and independent shops fix cars better than replacing the parts with OEM. Aftermarket doesn't have to mean cheap parts. It's about quality, customer service and saving the end user money. Anytime anyone wants to add their 2 cents to the project, just call. I'm always around. This is not the easiest part to reproduce for sure. If anyone has looked closely at this, there are some serious tolerances that have to be met for this gear to work. I'll do my best.

Thanks all.

Jeff Caplan
757-593-3478
1980 535 T4 turbo family sedan (386 flbs at the wheels)

Nice. We dont need a replacement gear that is better then the original, we just need one that's pretty much the same that we can purchase =)

Originally Posted by pburnett

Wow. It's been a while since I've checked in on this thread. Man has it taken off! Hopefully my little short-cut has been helping out, but if we can get an actual replacement gear started, now that is the real deal!

And is stickied now! Hopefully when mine fails, we have a replacement part we can swap!

Originally Posted by hamonbagel

I'm working on it now. I bought my new actuator from the local dealer. I was able to take it a part with little trouble. I'll be putting a YouTube video together showing how I did it. I've heard all the warnings about making a part that is strong enough to hold up and weak enough to break to prevent other damages. I'll do my best. Unless you have an older car, you may not have heard of me. I've been making and supplying parts for older Euro cars for ten years now. Anything I can find that is an expensive, dealer only item, that can be fixed with a simple part, I try and supply. I make everything I sell myself in VA. NOTHING comes from overseas. One of the cool things about my business is others (like China) try and copy me and don't succeed. Not the other way around. Quality and customer service come first together.

I'm an E12 owner and major sponsor of the BMW CCA O'Fest every year. I started my business because no one would supply me with the small plastic part I needed to do a job myself. My goal is to help the DIY's and independent shops fix cars better than replacing the parts with OEM. Aftermarket doesn't have to mean cheap parts. It's about quality, customer service and saving the end user money. Anytime anyone wants to add their 2 cents to the project, just call. I'm always around. This is not the easiest part to reproduce for sure. If anyone has looked closely at this, there are some serious tolerances that have to be met for this gear to work. I'll do my best.

Thanks all.

Jeff Caplan
757-593-3478
1980 535 T4 turbo family sedan (386 flbs at the wheels)

any updated jeff????????????

you guys should also keep in mind that these symptoms could be a worn commutator or brushes like mine

I didn't have the Triad of lights on Dash till mechanic went in & changed the fluids.
Then he said it was Transfer case Problem. It is weird no noise at all till I turn the car off then a few clicks.
Should I still check for the Actvator?
This is frustrating. I have only 47,000 miles of easy driving. Do the X3 have this issue?
Nancy

Yes .....because when you turn it off, it is returning to its original or ...the start position ..

Do you guys have the ABS, 4x4 and red Brakes lights on always after they lit up first time ?

I've got same lights and I do hear that noise right after I turn the engine off. But the lights always go off for a while if I power it off on a red light stop. And start again shortly after. Is this what you are seeing ? I'm wondering if I should spend time to try this fix or this might be a different issue.

mine would come and go...evenetually it stayed on, pull the actuator and chheck the gear, it takes 10 minutes to pull it, then you have to remove the cover tro gfet to the gear..ive got one for sale if you happen to need one,

if its doing the weird bumping under acceleration, disconnect the main wire to the solenoid and if the bumping goes away then thats your problem

it sounds like your actuator though

Ok I spent an evening under the car and it seem impossible to put torx head on the top ones. Either 2004/2005 have slightly more room there or my tools are too big. I'm considering remove that crossmember altogether. A bit worried if this will results in whatever it holds dropping on the floor. Or will it hang there for a while ?
So far removed both crossmember nuts on the driver side and loosened both on the pass side.

mines an 06 4.4, yours does have a different transmission...that would explain the trouble your having..that sux man..put a jack under the transmission but dont cave in the trans oilpan, ...to support it, or it will fall, not completely but enough that it might damage some stuff on the firewall and lines and and hoses etc etc..

i used a 10mm deepsocket, with no extension, first put the socklet on the bolt, then push the ratchet onto the socket..this may not work for you ...

Well, it's finally happened to me as well....The terrible triad of lights and clicking noise after turning the car off ('06 X3 with sports package and 98,500 miles). Took the car to BMW yesterday to confirm and sure enough they found faults for VTG and VTG actuator. Their estimate to replace motor: $1,400. He said if the new TC motor didn't resolve the issue, I would need a whole new TC for $3,500. So far I'm out only $150 for the diagnosis.

It appears that this 180º trick remedies the problem - at least temporarily. My 2 questions are:

1. As some had asked already, can anyone who has already done this gear rotation chime in to update how many miles you have gotten since?
2. If left unfixed for a few weeks - or maybe months (will now use the car as a low mileage commuter to train station), can additional damage be done?

My plan is to wait for the new gear from Jeff to see if that works - this way I'm only dropping that thing once (hopefully). Just peeked under the car and it looked a little intimidating.

Thanks!

I have the light triad happening on my 2006 X3 at 75K miles. My mechanic said that the transfer case should be replaced based on advice he received but seeing the posts on this forum it appears that the actuator is the way to go.

I do not have any noise but I feel the shudder on acceleration and the three lights come on. My mechanic does not think that I am damaging the car further by driving it in this condition (at least in the near term).

Please advise on the following:

1. Should I just have the actuator replaced?
2. Am I damaging the car if I continue driving it for another week? (It's been two weeks since it first occurred)
3. Should I expect to have more problems in the near future?
4. Should I sell the car?

Thanks for your help!

James
Fullerton, CA

Originally Posted by talkjames

I do not have any noise but I feel the shudder on acceleration and the three lights come on.

I don't think this matches "worn our gear". When worm slips at the worn plasic gear you should hear ratcheting sounds. And I do not see many reports of that shudder on acceleration. I'd get the fault codes off it first. Personally I would say with worn plastic gear issue I would take a risk and drive it for a while. At least until I can get a cheaper TC off internet shipped. Or save some $$ to get it fixed.

Mine "3-lights" '07 X3 reports "2DCE servo motor on transfer case no signal". And I do hear sounds after engine shutoff even though lights triad does not come on every trip even if I try push it harder to have 4x4 kick in.