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Transfer Case Actuator potential free fix!

790K views 1K replies 251 participants last post by  jayram1408 
#1 ·
A couple weeks ago, I got the "terrible triad" of lights (ABS, 4x4, and Brake). Recently, I got the clicking noise after turning the car off and was able to determine that it was coming from a transfer case. Using several posts from here, especially this one:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4473836&postcount=19

I bought a new transfer case actuator and installed it. Problem solved, no lights, no clicking, all better. It is not a cheap part at 720 bucks from getbmwparts.com, and 900 bucks elsewhere, so the engineer in me wanted to figure out why they were failing.

Which brings me to the purpose of this post. I disected the old actuator to find out what the heck is going on inside it. I appologize for the huge pictures, but some sort of resolution was needed to describe what I was trying to say.

What the actuator looks like when off the car:


And broken down into the pieces: Bottom right is the motor, top right is the brush assembly, top left is a guard of some sort that pops off (albeit bent and unusable once you have it off) and the bottom left is the gear assembly (we'll focus on this one)


After I popped off the oil guard piece, here is what the inside looked like, a ton of shavings and grease.


and closer:


So you can see the motor turns a worm gear which is mated to a black gear (which is made of plastic :thumbdwn:!!!) Eventually, this gear wears down like crazy and doesnt have any teeth left to grip the worm gear. This is what causes the slipping, and the error lights, and especially the clicking sound.

In this photo, you can see the change from good gear area to the bad area. The good area is on the left, and as you follow the black gear around to the right, you can see where it has been worn down from sitting all the time.




So, I went farther. I took off the black gear to see what it looked like:
Good side (what it should look like everywhere):


Bad side (Cause of the problem)


POTENTIAL SOLUTION:

So now we know what the cause is, how can we fix it? It has been (from my research) that everyone just buys a new actuator. Yes, it fixes the problem, I can vouch for that, but I don't know how many other people looked into what CAUSED the problem.

I bet you could unbolt the motor from the gear housing assembly (it is held on by 4 torx bolts that come off quite easily compared to trying to remove the actuator from the car).
Mark a location of the current position on the white plastic gear you can see in the first photo. After the motor is unbolted and removed (ONLY THE MOTOR, DONT DESTROY YOUR ACTUATOR AND TAKE THE WHOLE THING APART!!!!), turn the white plastic gear 180 degrees from its current location. This takes the bad part of the gear and puts it where it will not get used, which means that a good part is now in contact with the worm gear.

Re-insert the motor and bolt back together. This should give you, say another 65k miles (when mine failed) or so before you likely have to replace the actuator. Re-install on your transfer case, and voila! you should be good to go with only an hour or so of your time wasted instead of time and 900 bucks.

I haven't tried this, so try it at your own risk, but with pulling everything apart, it seems like a pretty safe bet, but obviously I can't be held responsible if something does go wrong.

Hope perhaps it can save someone almost a thousand dollars. I believe my logic is sound, but I look forward to your comments!
 
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#207 ·
I wrote to Jeff to get on the list, just in case.

It will be a plastic gear, in case you were not sure.

For those of you who did the swap, please let Jeff know if there are any specific things on the gear (or perhaps kit) that would help the install and use.

Sounds like he really wants to help us DIYers!
 
#210 ·
I'm working on it now. I bought my new actuator from the local dealer. I was able to take it a part with little trouble. I'll be putting a YouTube video together showing how I did it. I've heard all the warnings about making a part that is strong enough to hold up and weak enough to break to prevent other damages. I'll do my best. Unless you have an older car, you may not have heard of me. I've been making and supplying parts for older Euro cars for ten years now. Anything I can find that is an expensive, dealer only item, that can be fixed with a simple part, I try and supply. I make everything I sell myself in VA. NOTHING comes from overseas. One of the cool things about my business is others (like China) try and copy me and don't succeed. Not the other way around. Quality and customer service come first together.

I'm an E12 owner and major sponsor of the BMW CCA O'Fest every year. I started my business because no one would supply me with the small plastic part I needed to do a job myself. My goal is to help the DIY's and independent shops fix cars better than replacing the parts with OEM. Aftermarket doesn't have to mean cheap parts. It's about quality, customer service and saving the end user money. Anytime anyone wants to add their 2 cents to the project, just call. I'm always around. This is not the easiest part to reproduce for sure. If anyone has looked closely at this, there are some serious tolerances that have to be met for this gear to work. I'll do my best.

Thanks all.

Jeff Caplan
757-593-3478
1980 535 T4 turbo family sedan (386 flbs at the wheels)
 
#217 ·
Transfer Case

I didn't have the Triad of lights on Dash till mechanic went in & changed the fluids.
Then he said it was Transfer case Problem. It is weird no noise at all till I turn the car off then a few clicks.
Should I still check for the Actvator?
This is frustrating. I have only 47,000 miles of easy driving. Do the X3 have this issue?
Nancy
 
#219 ·
Do you guys have the ABS, 4x4 and red Brakes lights on always after they lit up first time ?

I've got same lights and I do hear that noise right after I turn the engine off. But the lights always go off for a while if I power it off on a red light stop. And start again shortly after. Is this what you are seeing ? I'm wondering if I should spend time to try this fix or this might be a different issue.
 
#220 · (Edited)
mine would come and go...evenetually it stayed on, pull the actuator and chheck the gear, it takes 10 minutes to pull it, then you have to remove the cover tro gfet to the gear..ive got one for sale if you happen to need one,

if its doing the weird bumping under acceleration, disconnect the main wire to the solenoid and if the bumping goes away then thats your problem

it sounds like your actuator though
 
#221 ·
Ok I spent an evening under the car and it seem impossible to put torx head on the top ones. Either 2004/2005 have slightly more room there or my tools are too big. I'm considering remove that crossmember altogether. A bit worried if this will results in whatever it holds dropping on the floor. Or will it hang there for a while ?
So far removed both crossmember nuts on the driver side and loosened both on the pass side.
 
#222 · (Edited)
mines an 06 4.4, yours does have a different transmission...that would explain the trouble your having..that sux man..put a jack under the transmission but dont cave in the trans oilpan, ...to support it, or it will fall, not completely but enough that it might damage some stuff on the firewall and lines and and hoses etc etc..

i used a 10mm deepsocket, with no extension, first put the socklet on the bolt, then push the ratchet onto the socket..this may not work for you ...
 
#223 ·
Well, it's finally happened to me as well....The terrible triad of lights and clicking noise after turning the car off ('06 X3 with sports package and 98,500 miles). Took the car to BMW yesterday to confirm and sure enough they found faults for VTG and VTG actuator. Their estimate to replace motor: $1,400. He said if the new TC motor didn't resolve the issue, I would need a whole new TC for $3,500. So far I'm out only $150 for the diagnosis.

It appears that this 180º trick remedies the problem - at least temporarily. My 2 questions are:

1. As some had asked already, can anyone who has already done this gear rotation chime in to update how many miles you have gotten since?
2. If left unfixed for a few weeks - or maybe months (will now use the car as a low mileage commuter to train station), can additional damage be done?

My plan is to wait for the new gear from Jeff to see if that works - this way I'm only dropping that thing once (hopefully). Just peeked under the car and it looked a little intimidating.

Thanks!
 
#224 ·
Is this the start of a series of problems?

I have the light triad happening on my 2006 X3 at 75K miles. My mechanic said that the transfer case should be replaced based on advice he received but seeing the posts on this forum it appears that the actuator is the way to go.

I do not have any noise but I feel the shudder on acceleration and the three lights come on. My mechanic does not think that I am damaging the car further by driving it in this condition (at least in the near term).

Please advise on the following:
  1. Should I just have the actuator replaced?
  2. Am I damaging the car if I continue driving it for another week? (It's been two weeks since it first occurred)
  3. Should I expect to have more problems in the near future?
  4. Should I sell the car?

Thanks for your help!

James
Fullerton, CA
 
#225 ·
I do not have any noise but I feel the shudder on acceleration and the three lights come on.
I don't think this matches "worn our gear". When worm slips at the worn plasic gear you should hear ratcheting sounds. And I do not see many reports of that shudder on acceleration. I'd get the fault codes off it first. Personally I would say with worn plastic gear issue I would take a risk and drive it for a while. At least until I can get a cheaper TC off internet shipped. Or save some $$ to get it fixed.

Mine "3-lights" '07 X3 reports "2DCE servo motor on transfer case no signal". And I do hear sounds after engine shutoff even though lights triad does not come on every trip even if I try push it harder to have 4x4 kick in.
 
#226 ·
the above case sounds like mine, the gear was good even though i bought another thinking it was the gear when it wasnt,

it had the same shudder... if your going to continue to drive it, disconnect the connector to the solenoid to stop the jerking, long term its not good for the driveline, the transmission or the transfer case chain

the motor brushes are likely worn all the way down and the commutator on the solenoid motor is black and dirty. thats why it doesnt have the power to properly engage the arms that actuate the clutch,

as soon as i replaced mine the lights and the shudder went away...

just disconnect the connector to the solenoid, if the shudder goes away, thats your problem, im pretty sure thats the problem. when you replace the solenoid, swap the resistor on the old solenoid to your new solenoid.
 
#227 ·
Seems to be fixed

Took my X3 to the mechanic Friday and suggested he turn the worn out gear to a fresh section to see if it works. He did this and I have put about 100 miles on it since without any problems.

Hopefully that fixed it for the next 75K miles.

He said the gear they use was like the one on the power window mechanism. He said it makes no sense to have plastic gear in this place in the construction.

I don't know if I will find other problems when I hit 80K miles but hopefully this is the last thing before 140K.

Thx
 
#228 ·
Lights on mine seem to go on a little bit less frequent. Took a 200 miles trip over weekend and have not seen them for at least two days. The ratcheting sounds still happen on the engine shutoff. Got appointment to fix it in two days (found out that my CPO is not expired yet). I'll update on the findings.
 
#229 ·
Hey, guys - new here and found this thread via Google, but I didn't see a similar one for my 328xi, but I'm having the same problem (Brake, ABS and 4x4 lights, occasional grinding noise after shutoff).

I don't have a lift or anything but I'm fairly handy - anyone know how hard it would be to get under my car (obviously it's lower to the ground) and try to perform this repair, and/or anything else I should be aware of or try to rule out before trying it?

This is my first BMW and I've only had it two months - I'm not really keen on having a $1000+ repair right out of the gate if I can avoid it, but I don't want to screw up my car, either...
 
#231 · (Edited)
So after figuring out I still have CPO it was fixed by BMW. They replaced transfer case activator. Their fault codes were 539E 5463 5F3A and 5462 "Servo motor or coupling force too much". BMW's test plan directed to check lines from transfer case control module to servomotor, Which were fine. The next step according to BMW test plan is to replace motor actuator. Which was done and took care of this issue.

I don't have a lift or anything but I'm fairly handy - anyone know how hard it would be to get under my car (obviously it's lower to the ground) and try to perform this repair, and/or anything else I should be aware of or try to rule out before trying it?
Just try it. Height-wise you will know if you can get there if you get your back on the floor.

Issue I had with 2007 X3 is very tight space, unless you take out exhaust and cross member. I doubt anyone could tell you how it is on your car.

And then you need torx and hex drivers, no big deal.
 

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#230 ·
Well, after looking at my car I don't think there's any way I can fix anything underneath it... one thing I wanted to add, though: I just realized that this all started right after I went through an automatic car wash with the underbody wash. Anything that you guys can think of that could have caused this from the wash?

Also, two more questions:
1. My car is a 2007 but only has 49k miles on it. Should I try to get it into the dealer before 50k to increase my chances of some kind of goodwill fix?
2. If I just let it go for a while without fixing it, is there a chance it will damage something else and make the ultimate repair more expensive? It seems to drive completely fine from what I can tell, although I haven't been anywhere to test whether the AWD is working or not.
 
#232 ·
My wifes 2008 X3 with 42k miles lit up the brake, 4X4,abs and airbag light with no ratcheting sound. The 4X4 was acting funny like it was 4x4 on a part time system like an s-10 chevy or ford for those who have had either of those. My battery was low, so I replaced, did a quick 10 mile drive and it went away. While researching this topic I came across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-x3-x5-T...tomotive_Services&hash=item1e6abc6b8a&vxp=mtr

Might be worth a try, has anyone ever used this vendor?

Hopefully I wont need it.
 
#238 ·
Hello its me again. if you read this post from the beginning i was the first to try this solution
and i worked four months then i took it out again rotate bit more and it last around two months. I try to buy a service for the actuator over ebay but i could not do it because i need it to take it out send it to them then wait until they send it back i couldn't stay without transportation without knowing if it was going to work, i wrote to the seller over ebay just to see if he will sell the repair kit and i will do it my self but he said NO. So finally looking over ebay i found a new actuator in Canada i bought it for $350 installed it and no more issues. So in conclusion the fix works for a while it will delay the time to buy a new one. Hopefully jeff will soon have a solution in which we will be able to buy just the worn gear.
 
#236 ·
rotated gear

i completed it for my girlfriend had to loosen the cross member and the exhaust it made it very easy to get to when all that stuff is out of the way, disasembeled the motor from the housing did notice the spent gear, so rotated it 180 added dielectric lube to the worm gear and reinstalled everything.

she then drove the X3 and was very excited lights went off and X3 seemed to drive better
so we will see how long this will last her X3 is at 82k:thumbup:
 
#237 · (Edited)
Hello its me again. if you read this post from the beginning i was the first to try this solution
and i worked four months then i took it out again rotate bit more and it last around two months. I try to buy a service for the actuator over ebay but i could not do it because i need it to take it out send it to them then wait until they send it back i couldn't stay without transportation without knowing if it was going to work, i wrote to the seller over ebay just to see if he will sell the repair kit and i will do it my self but he said NO. So finally looking over ebay i found a new actuator in Canada i bought it for $350 installed it and no more issues. So in conclusion the fix works for a while it will delay the time to buy a new one. Hopefully jeff will soon have a solution in which we will be able to buy just the worn gear.
 
#239 ·
So I was so excited to find this posting and could not wait to get home and turn my gear 180 to rid myself of the "terrible triad". It took me about 1 hour for the task. ( no lift, no ramps, used sockets, torx, extensions, and universal, I did not have to loosen the crossmember ). I was so excited to restart my X3 and wait for the lights to dissappear into oblivion..........BUT they did not:cry:. I feel so defeated. Do I need to have the diagnostic reset or disconnect the battery? After reading everyone else's post, it appears that the lights just cleared themselves.

Here is the history (as short and sweet as possible)
Bought used 1 year ago, currently with 63K mileage.
Three months ago was intermittently delayed to start, sometimes immediate crank, sometimes 1-2 sec start. Thought it was battery, charge light indicated needed charge. Charged battery, but would not hold sufficient charge to get green light. (BATT test says good battery)...decided not to hassle with inconsistent charge and with the wife breathing down my neck about it, I bought a new battery. After new battery installed, no problems on start for two months.
Bought a small boat and installed a CURTs hitch DIY. No problems with install, no wiring had to be connected nor disconnected for install. Decided to use a trailer light conversion kit I had sitting around the garage to DIY the lights. (Ended up with only connecting turn signals, brake lights, and ground.) Average distance for tow has been 1 mile.
Anytime I connected the trailer lights up, lights work appropriately, except I would get the Bulb warning light on the dash. (figured it was a bad bulb on trailer somewhere and when I disconnected trailer light plug the light extiinguishes)..thougth not a big deal at the time.
Still no "terrible triad" of lights...........
One week afterwards the intermittent delay start began again. I was going to troubleshoot it on the following weekend, when during the middle of the week, the X3 would not start. Tried jumping it off, because I thought it might be low voltage on battery, but still would not turn over. Had it towed to the local BMW garage ( not a BMW dealership). They ran diagnostic and determined it was low voltage (possible bad battery) and the starter. So I had a starter installed. Picked up two days later and started right up.
Within 24 hours I got my first encounter with the "terrible triad" warning lights (ABS.4x4,yellow brake).....but they went out after driving about 15 minutes.
Towed the boat once after these lights extinguished during that weekend with no problems other than the bulb indicator warning light as mentioned above.
On Monday, the "terrible triad" resurfaced and did not reset all week, I started to research on the internet. Called the BMW garage where I had the work done and they suggested I bring it by to have a diagnostic run. After the diagnostic, they suggested that I buy a new battery as the one installed was good, but the diagnostic was indicating low voltage (bad battery). So I went and exchanged the battery which when tested was GOOD and the Alternator tested as GOOD, but they exchanged it like for like anyways to put me at ease. After the exchange, the "terrible triad" lights were still illuminated. So I went back to the BMW garage and they reset the diagnostic for me. All three warning lights were gone. :) After signing the paperwork for the free work they documented, I went to start the X3 and it was delayed to start and after another hour of troubleshooting, the mechanic determined it must be a bad starter.:mad: So i left it with them and they replaced the starter the very next day and replaced the motor grounding strap that had a little corrosion on it, at no cost to me. I picked the X3 up with no warning lights and starts right up with no problems. I get home and immediately remove the trailer light connections, thinking now that there may have been a short somewhere and i don't want to chance draining the battery again.
Two days later, without pulling the boat at all, the "terrible triad" resurfaces.:dunno::mad: Then I find this posting and am convinced that it would solve my problems, but the fight continues, and any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
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