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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 06-16-2012, 12:07 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Alex
When my cars start develop high speed vibration under brakes i have only one solution
new Brembo rotors and new quality pads on 4 corners
~$450 are good enough for the next 50k miles
GL
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Last edited by champaign777; 06-16-2012 at 12:09 PM.
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  #52  
Old 06-16-2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
One of the mods I recently made to my car was to drill/tap a new hole into the intake tube before the SC.
Alex-I don't want to tell you this but this mod for the SJP has to be done to the intake tube BEFORE the SC, not in the tube after the SC.

All I can say is, OH ****!!!!

Last edited by johnstern; 06-16-2012 at 01:58 PM.
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  #53  
Old 06-16-2012, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Alex-I don't want to tell you this but this mod for the SJP has to be done to the intake tube BEFORE the SC, not in the tube after the SC.

All I can say is, OH ****!!!!
I must be getting old

No biggy! No harm was done.

Actually, this is good because I have hope again.. Good catch John! Thank you very much. Tomorrow is another day.
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  #54  
Old 06-16-2012, 03:30 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Thanks for your wonderful attitude, Alex. I think I was more upset than you-I'm way too compulsive.

BTW-I can't seem to figure out how to attach large pictures to my posts. I always seem to come up with just the thumbnails??

Last edited by johnstern; 06-16-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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  #55  
Old 06-16-2012, 05:11 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
BTW-I can't seem to figure out how to attach large pictures to my posts. I always seem to come up with just the thumbnails??
John,
After you upload the image.
Right mouse on the file name then pick copy link address.
Then go up on the top of the letter head and pick "insert image icon"
Then paste the link and enter.

Quote:
Thanks for your wonderful attitude, Alex. I think I was more upset than you-I'm way too compulsive.
It's all good .
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  #56  
Old 06-16-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
Alex
When my cars start develop high speed vibration under brakes i have only one solution
new Brembo rotors and new quality pads on 4 corners
~$450 are good enough for the next 50k miles
GL
Igor, I might get to that point at a later time. The car is still vibrates when hitting the brake hard but only at high speed 75-80 MPH. Around town it's perfectly fine.

My rotors are still looking as sexy as ever. I'm afraid it's not the rotors.

Quote:
bimar540 I had similar issue as described in initial post. I replaced my rear rotors/pads and shimmy at breaking was gone.
Thank you. Did you replace the front first or you went right to the rear and replace them?
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  #57  
Old 06-16-2012, 06:27 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Igor, I might get to that point at a later time. The car is still vibrates when hitting the brake hard but only at high speed 75-80 MPH. Around town it's perfectly fine.

My rotors are still looking as sexy as ever. I'm afraid it's not the rotors.
I hope you checked all your front suspension parts including bearings
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  #58  
Old 06-16-2012, 08:22 PM
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Have you replaced the rear ball joints or rear upper control arms?
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  #59  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:02 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
I hope you checked all your front suspension parts including bearings
I did, they all had been replaced within the last 10K miles with Loemforder.

Quote:
Have you replaced the rear ball joints or rear upper control arms?
Jason, I don't want to open a whole another can of worm, last time I checked they were all good and tight. My other 97 with 183K miles still on its original rear w/o any sign of vibration during hard braking.
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  #60  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Jason, I don't want to open a whole another can of worm, last time I checked they were all good and tight. My other 97 with 183K miles still on its original rear w/o any sign of vibration during hard braking.
LOL!
183k miles on original rear ball joints...?
Um, yeah, I HAD to replace mine (and rear upper control arms) at 80k miles because they were so bad.
I too thought it was the brakes, but, it was not.
The car's rear end was so loose and floppy, it would lose control during braking/ and/ or maneuvering.
Been there, done that...
I am just speaking from my experience, and giving you another FYI...
I am just trying to give you possible problems that are giving the symptoms you are describing.
http://beisansystems.com/procedures/..._procedure.htm
Best of luck!
Thanks!
Jason
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  #61  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Jason5driver;6900398]LOL!
183k miles on original rear ball joints...?
This was preferred to my other E39 97-528. At 183K miles, this car has no issue with high speed hard braking vibration. My 02-530 is the car that currently exhibits vibration at high speed hard braking. It has only 138K miles BTW.

Quote:
Um, yeah, I HAD to replace mine (and rear upper control arms) at 80k miles because they were so bad.
How would you know they are bad, last time I checked there was no play in any of the bushings.
At 80K miles you had to change the rear is abnormal but then again it's all depends where you live, your style of driving and the road condition.

Quote:
I too thought it was the brakes, but, it was not.
The car's rear end was so loose and floppy, it would lose control during braking/ and/ or maneuvering.
Been there, done that...
I drive very spiritedly when no passenger of course, I don't experience any sign of compromise in the way it handles corners.
It could come down to this, but I'm going to save it for last resource.

Quote:
I am just speaking from my experience, and giving you another FYI...
I am just trying to give you possible problems that are giving the symptoms you are describing.
Thanks man, . I will keep in mind.

Last edited by 16valex; 06-17-2012 at 10:48 AM.
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  #62  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
This was preferred to my other E39 97-528. At 183K miles, this car has no issue with high speed hard braking vibration. My 02-530 is the car that currently exhibits vibration at high speed hard braking. It has only 138K miles BTW.


How would you know they are bad, last time I checked there was no play in any of the bushings.
At 80K miles you had to change the rear is abnormal but then again it's all depends where you live, your style of driving and the road condition.


I drive very spiritedly when no passenger of course, I don't experience any sign of compromise in the way it handles corners.
It could come down to this, but I'm going to save it for last resource.



Thanks man, . I will keep in mind.
+1.
I agree.
Replacing the rear ball joints is not a fun thing... Lol...
However, once done, I was emensely surprised from the difference.

What is the next thing you are going to look at to figure out the shimmy when braking?

Thanks!
Jason
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  #63  
Old 06-23-2012, 12:34 PM
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I've been busy with work, but today I crawed under to re-visit my leaky drive shaft CV joint that I discovered over the Winter. It's getting very bad now, grease has been slinging out, I think this is the culprit of my high speed hard braking problem.

Stay tune for update.

Johnstern, I did not get a PM from you yesterday.
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  #64  
Old 06-23-2012, 01:12 PM
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Alex,

I sent it again. I guess I made some sort of mistake yesterday.
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  #65  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:36 AM
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I've been too busy, the old symptom is getting worse, time to do something about it. Just ordered some caliber rebuild kits, seems to be the easiest route to take, stay tune for update.
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  #66  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:32 AM
Tommylaw9 Tommylaw9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
I've been too busy, the old symptom is getting worse, time to do something about it. Just ordered some caliber rebuild kits, seems to be the easiest route to take, stay tune for update.


so you didn't solve the judder? mines doing the same thing. unfortunately for me, i dont have the cash to replace everything under the sun, suspension wise. tagging this post for your updates.
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  #67  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommylaw9 View Post
so you didn't solve the judder? mines doing the same thing. unfortunately for me, i dont have the cash to replace everything under the sun, suspension wise. tagging this post for your updates.
I haven't done any thing yet, but I'm very sure it has some thing to do with the brake system.
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  #68  
Old 09-25-2012, 11:56 AM
Tommylaw9 Tommylaw9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
I haven't done any thing yet, but I'm very sure it has some thing to do with the brake system.
That's where I'm leaning on mine, but like I said, I still can't rule out suspension issues as it is all 100% stock with 128k on the whip.

Need to get the vanos done before this too.
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  #69  
Old 10-03-2012, 11:55 AM
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Rebuild caliber is not for the fainted heart is for sure.
Remove the caliber and push out the piston using some compress air is very easy.
BUT.
Installing the new seal back on the piston is pain in the ass. Big time PITA!!!

I'll be going for test drive soon. Hope this is it but for some reason I'm not so sure. I'll be back.
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  #70  
Old 10-03-2012, 01:43 PM
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Damn! NO dice!.
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  #71  
Old 10-03-2012, 06:32 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Rebuild caliber is not for the fainted heart is for sure.
Remove the caliber and push out the piston using some compress air is very easy.
BUT.
Installing the new seal back on the piston is pain in the ass. Big time PITA!!!

I'll be going for test drive soon. Hope this is it but for some reason I'm not so sure. I'll be back.
I thought the caliper rebuild was fairly easy. The first one was the learning experience, the remaining three were each done in short order. It was all a dirty job, though.

Maybe you should go ahead and get the rotors turned now, as cn90 recommended.
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  #72  
Old 10-03-2012, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
I thought the caliper rebuild was fairly easy. The first one was the learning experience, the remaining three were each done in short order. It was all a dirty job, though.

Maybe you should go ahead and get the rotors turned now, as cn90 recommended.
Glad you found it easy, but man! I found it difficult installing the seal, wish I had a hook with a ball tip at the end.

Pete, I may have to get to that point where I have to replace all my rotors and pads, but I'd not turn them. However, I don't think it's the rotor and let me tell you why. If I drive under 70 MPH there no problem, there's no body shake. But, if I go over 70 MPH and hit the brake the whole car shakes. I also had warped rotor experience before, if your rotor is warped you'll definitely feel some pulsing at the pedal at slow speed. This is why I think my problem is in the drive line.

My car-lift installation is almost done. I'll be doing the drive shaft first.

Last edited by 16valex; 10-03-2012 at 06:51 PM.
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  #73  
Old 10-03-2012, 07:25 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Glad you found it easy, but man! I found it difficult installing the seal, wish I had a hook with a ball tip at the end.

Pete, I may have to get to that point where I have to replace all my rotors and pads, but I'd not turn them. However, I don't think it's the rotor and let me tell you why. If I drive under 70 MPH there no problem, there's no body shake. But, if I go over 70 MPH and hit the brake the whole car shakes. I also had warped rotor experience before, if your rotor is warped you'll definitely feel some pulsing at the pedal at slow speed. This is why I think my problem is in the drive line.

My car-lift installation is almost done. I'll be doing the drive shaft first.
Why did you think that calipers (but not rotors) might cause this over-70 vibration? (I haven't read the entire thread so if you've already explained that, ignore this Q.)
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  #74  
Old 10-03-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Why did you think that calipers (but not rotors) might cause this over-70 vibration? (I haven't read the entire thread so if you've already explained that, ignore this Q.)
I thought there maybe a tiny chance one of the front calibers was sticky.
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  #75  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:20 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I do not know what the problem is (all my brake-related vibration issues have been due to uneven pad deposition, erroneously called "warped rotors" in some circles) ... but these threads are supposed to contain all the possible causes:

- The main causes of vibration while highway driving (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5); while highway braking (1) (2) (3) & why it's not rotor "warp" (1); and severe shuddering while slow speed braking on bumps (1) & TireRack vehicle vibration diagnosis chart (1) (jpg) with match mounting hints (1) & due to worn drive shaft, flex disc, center bearing, or "giunti Boschi", namely the giubo (pronounced sort of like jew'eebo), and sometimes unknowingly misspelled as "guibo" (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to repair the rear driveshaft seal by the differential (1) or the inner constant velocity (CV) half-drive shaft (1).
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 10-04-2012 at 06:34 PM.
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