e30 m50 rebuild issue

Originally Posted by bennybenny

goetz for rings, and glyco bearings. got all my stuff sourced from the US, pelican parts. even with shipping turned out a hell of a lot cheaper that way (instead of sourcing from Oz)

and as for ECU, it's a 0 261 200 405.

well still waiting for the MAF from the UK at any rate. i'm going to see if that changes anything and maybe then yank the head off to see what's up... really frustrating me.

Good stuff there.

I wouldn't be looking at motors 10 years newer that really share no common part with your engine as a comparison for troubleshooting.

Your issue sounds like a sticky vanos, but you have none, my $ is on your lifters or trays being toast.

the donor 525i


325e after the Sydney to Gold Coast trip


about to be torn down


sandblasted valve cover


primered


cleaned up ready for head to go on


ready for bearings.


cleaned up ready for head to go on


bores honed ready


doing the monowiper mod


motor all ready for install


goin in #1


goin in #2


IN!




off to the exhaust shop


just a proof of timing


left biased


exhaust #1


exhaust #2


exhaust #3


the bay #1


the bay #2

Originally Posted by SWISS

Good stuff there.

I wouldn't be looking at motors 10 years newer that really share no common part with your engine as a comparison for troubleshooting.

Your issue sounds like a sticky vanos, but you have none, my $ is on your lifters or trays being toast.

hehe, i did feel iffy doing a comparison of the two.
but hey, it was the closest i could get to that same distinct sound

cheers for the tips. i'll owe you one if you're right! thanks for the tips.

Originally Posted by bennybenny

hehe, i did feel iffy doing a comparison of the two.
but hey, it was the closest i could get to that same distinct sound

cheers for the tips. i'll owe you one if you're right! thanks for the tips.

Ok after looking through all your pics I am positive you:

did not remove the crank and take it and rods in for proper inpsection and sizing for bearings at a qualified machine shop.

The head surface looks filthy from what I can see.

And you cannot time cams like that, they are not parallel to each other, they are perpendicular to the head top surface or VC seal.

Have you bearings properly resized, and time the engine correctly using a tension tool to load the chain, and cam blocks.

Originally Posted by SWISS

Ok after looking through all your pics I am positive you:

did not remove the crank and take it and rods in for proper inpsection and sizing for bearings at a qualified machine shop.

The head surface looks filthy from what I can see.

And you cannot time cams like that, they are not parallel to each other, they are perpendicular to the head top surface or VC seal.

Have you bearings properly resized, and time the engine correctly using a tension tool to load the chain, and cam blocks.

sigh... ok swiss you got me. i used plastigauge.
and removed the crank to replace the bearings

http://s18.postimage.org/445nnu795/IMAG0109.jpg

, as for timing...
well i followed a timing guide on one of these forums, can't remember which one
and i did pre-tension the chain according to that guide.

that pic probably wasn't the best to use to document the cleanliness of the block.
it is only a mobile phone.

i appreciate the help in any case. if you have another timing guide which i can follow i'll gladly use it as i found it hard to find one and settled on the first one i did find.

please don't treat me like a novice because i am not one when it come to engines. i clearly just do not have your know-how on these engines specifically.

your condescending attitude is not appreciated.

Originally Posted by bennybenny

sigh... ok swiss you got me. i used plastigauge.
and removed the crank to replace the bearings

http://s18.postimage.org/445nnu795/IMAG0109.jpg

, as for timing...
well i followed a timing guide on one of these forums, can't remember which one
and i did pre-tension the chain according to that guide.

that pic probably wasn't the best to use to document the cleanliness of the block.
it is only a mobile phone.

i appreciate the help in any case. if you have another timing guide which i can follow i'll gladly use it as i found it hard to find one and settled on the first one i did find.

please don't treat me like a novice because i am not one when it come to engines. i clearly just do not have your know-how on these engines specifically.

your condescending attitude is not appreciated.

You can call my tone condescending and I can call your work half a55. We all have our opinions, but you asked for advice because you tore apart a motor that was not knocking, rebuilt it and now it's ticking away.

I have may sound cocky because I have done this several times and never had any clackity clack clack in my motors. I follow this procedure and use these,




I highly recommend them if you have the means.

Here's a pic of the cam locks installed on an M44:

I just received the Conforti performance chip 175-300 from Turner Motorsports for my 1991 318is but when I took the ECU apart the label on the current chip says 1 267 356 378 and the instruction say it should say 0-261-200-175 or don’t install it. Whatz up wit dat?

Jeff Gifford 512-775-1797

Jeff, quit highjacking existing threads and start your own to ask that question. You'll get a better response and it will be more likely to be answered.

ok well as far as i can see the tool mentioned holds the cams in position so that you can tension the chain w/o worrying about them moving and losing the timing.

does it hold it at any particular angle? as far as i can see it holds them perpendicular to the head as you said, but that would also mean they sit parallel to one another so a straight edge would be "fine" to check them after the chain has been fitted no?

having the tools on hand would be incredibly handy but i don't.

as far as i can tell this tapping sound of mine in not consistent with poor timing.
i'm pretty sure i've got that part right. this procedure is quite similar to the one i used so thanks for letting me see that.

i'll have another look when i get the chance and consider the lifters as a possible issue as well. cheers for the input, i really appreciate it.

Originally Posted by bennybenny

ok well as far as i can see the tool mentioned holds the cams in position so that you can tension the chain w/o worrying about them moving and losing the timing.

does it hold it at any particular angle? as far as i can see it holds them perpendicular to the head as you said, but that would also mean they sit parallel to one another so a straight edge would be "fine" to check them after the chain has been fitted no?

having the tools on hand would be incredibly handy but i don't.

as far as i can tell this tapping sound of mine in not consistent with poor timing.
i'm pretty sure i've got that part right. this procedure is quite similar to the one i used so thanks for letting me see that.

i'll have another look when i get the chance and consider the lifters as a possible issue as well. cheers for the input, i really appreciate it.

Sure thing, you can find the tools on ebay. And I think the fixtures hold the cams at a slight angle to each other the tops are not flat on the cam locks look at the pic. IF you buy one tool get the cam blocks.

well i suppose i'd better wrap up this thread.

had another look today and decided i'd go through all the simple things again.
check wiring, plugs, start her up, listen and try to isolate the sound, etc.

i then decided to clean the ICV valve for the hell of it. hey, the car wasn't going anywhere.
cleaned her up, bit of brake cleaner in the end, and a rag.

SUCCESS! the waviness of the engine ceased, changed to a hum, knocking has ceased.
the engine now has an entirely new sound. all fixed.

thanks for all the input guys, i've learned quite a bit!

Great info here guys, I'll be rebuilding an M50 here soon for a turbo build and this thread is exactly what i needed to see.