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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 01-24-2010, 01:23 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glitch860 View Post
...1999 540

Most the time I cannot Lock the car using the remote.
Sometimes it works.

If I manually lock the car with the key, I can always unlock with the remote. - I Believe this proves that the battery is good in the remote.

The trunk unlock button always works - Further proof the battery is OK.

When I hit the lock button on the remote, I do see the LED on the key light up briefly - I would think this proves that the button itself is working.

I tried the steps in this forum to re-initialize the key with no luck. - The gas cap does lock when I lock the doors with the key.


Any ideas?

Thanks guys!
You need to INDICATE either the type of key (old style or new style) you have or your car's build date. The e39 has two different types of keys with 2 slightly different reinitializing procedures and there's no way to tell which you have by telling us you have a 1999 540i because 1999 was the year that the key changed.

The inability to LOCK the car is one of the first indicators that the key's battery is failing...see the instruction for the old style key below...and take note of the 3 major things that can occur when the key's battery is dying. You don't have to have all 3 symptoms...you can have 1 or any combination:

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 01-24-2010 at 01:26 PM.
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  #52  
Old 01-24-2010, 03:03 PM
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Bren517 Bren517 is offline
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seems like there is a bunch of us where the fuel cap door does lock when we manually lock the car.. (me being one of them)

- I checked my fuses and they all look fine
- I tried re-programming the keys and still doesnt work..

I might take it to a dealer and see what they say..
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03 525i - e60 M5 18" wheels | M5 front grill | HIDS | Front Strut | Koni adjustables with Eibach springs
Modified stock intake / CF Heat Shield | AUX IN | Focal coax | Focal power sub | Tinted Windows
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  #53  
Old 01-24-2010, 04:04 PM
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chiefwej chiefwej is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bren517 View Post
seems like there is a bunch of us where the fuel cap door does lock when we manually lock the car.. (me being one of them)

- I checked my fuses and they all look fine
- I tried re-programming the keys and still doesnt work..

I might take it to a dealer and see what they say..
What do you mean by locking the car "Manually"? If you are referring to locking it from the center console button, it isn't supposed to lock the gas door.
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  #54  
Old 01-24-2010, 04:28 PM
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Bren517 Bren517 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefwej View Post
What do you mean by locking the car "Manually"? If you are referring to locking it from the center console button, it isn't supposed to lock the gas door.
by manually i'm talking about sticking the key into the door to lock it
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  #55  
Old 01-24-2010, 06:53 PM
glitch860 glitch860 is offline
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Yes - Manually - Putting the key in the door and locking it.

So I have a done the intialization procedures for both types of keys.. old and new.

I will replace the battery and try again. I just didnt think the battery was the issue since I can unlock the car from a long way away. But cant hurt to change it.
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  #56  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:12 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bren517 View Post
seems like there is a bunch of us where the fuel cap door does lock when we manually lock the car.. (me being one of them)

- I checked my fuses and they all look fine
- I tried re-programming the keys and still doesnt work..

I might take it to a dealer and see what they say..
When you lock the door manually with the key or with the remote...the fuel filler door is suppose to lock. The only time the fuel filler door is NOT suppose to lock is when you initiate a single-lock....which would be when you use the interior central lock button or manually push the door lock pins down...or if you have the auto-lock feature @5 MPH initiated.

And what type of key do you have? Do you have the 3 button RF (radio frequency) key? Or do you have the 2 button IR (infrared) key? If you have the IR key...you've been following the wrong instructions...there's a slightly different procedure for the IR key...see the image below:


These are instructions for those e39 owners who may live in a market where BMW uses the IR system and the key only has TWO buttons on it:

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #57  
Old 01-28-2010, 03:05 PM
Brandonb Brandonb is offline
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Just finished replacing the battery in one of my keys and it works like a dream!!! I used a slightly different and easier technique than the other DIYs in order to get perfect battery contact and security.
Now I just have to do the other key

Now to figure out what the heck is wrong with my trunk (the trunk button on the key doesn't do anything either)
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  #58  
Old 02-11-2010, 02:41 PM
glitch860 glitch860 is offline
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Ditto - I replaced my battery and I can now lock my car via the remote! Why I could unlock my car from 1000 feet away still amazes me that the battery would cause an issue locking it.
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1999 540i/6
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235/45ZR-17 General Exclaim UHP
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  #59  
Old 02-15-2010, 07:20 AM
zybanuser zybanuser is offline
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Smile Fuse #53

Thank you guys. Sure enough, this forum just saved me a trip to the dealership, a tank of gas and probably an hour worth of labor @$88/hour.

Fuse #53 was the culprit for my remote not to work, and upon reading the manual there was a spare #53 in the glove box. Replaced it, program the remote and Voila!!

Thanks a bunch you guys!!
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  #60  
Old 07-13-2010, 02:52 PM
FusionZ06 FusionZ06 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 540i Sport
I have a 2003 540i sport with the new style key.

I have two keys and both do the same thing. The unlock/lock on both keys do not work. However, the trunk open works on both remotes. I am assuming, based upon the fact that the trunk opens, that the batteries in both remotes are still good.

After manually locking the car, sticking the key in the door and turning to the right, the gas cap door does lock. I checked through all the fuses and none appear to be burned. Ideas? Should I start by replacing all central locking system fuses?
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  #61  
Old 07-14-2010, 07:15 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FusionZ06 View Post
I have a 2003 540i sport with the new style key.... The unlock/lock on both keys do not work. However, the trunk open works on both remotes. ...
After manually locking the car ... the gas cap door does lock. I checked through all the fuses and none appear to be burned. Ideas? Should I start by replacing all central locking system fuses?
Did you mean to write "the gas cap door does not lock"

And if the fuel filler door does NOT lock...when you wrote you checked ALL the fuses...does that include the fuses in the trunk? Especially the one that is for the CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 07-14-2010 at 07:17 PM.
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  #62  
Old 07-14-2010, 07:20 PM
FusionZ06 FusionZ06 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Did you mean to write "the gas cap door does not lock"

And if the fuel filler door does NOT lock...when you wrote you checked ALL the fuses...does that include the fuses in the trunk? Especially the one that is for the CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM.
No. The gas cap door does in fact lock.

I checked all the fuses both in the trunk and glove box.

Ideas?
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  #63  
Old 07-15-2010, 06:23 PM
FusionZ06 FusionZ06 is offline
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I went ahead and replaced all the central locking system fuses and the same problem exists.

I can pop the trunk with the remote but the unlock/lock does not work.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Also the lock/unlock button inside the car no longer works.

Last edited by FusionZ06; 07-15-2010 at 06:32 PM.
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  #64  
Old 08-11-2010, 10:24 PM
dos540s dos540s is offline
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fuse 53

I had been stuck for a while trying the reset to no avail. But then I dug deeper, saw this thread and it was the fuse 53 in the trunk. It was blown, changed it and then the key reset worked first time with 2 keys, no problems.

Thanks so much for this thread!

Rick
2001 540i
1995 540i previously
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  #65  
Old 09-10-2010, 06:02 AM
Coolfek Coolfek is offline
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Successful reprogram of 320 E46 key


Thank you so much for your guidance folks. When I remembered to close the driver's door I followed the rest of the instructions and...it works!
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  #66  
Old 11-17-2010, 02:43 AM
mantauk mantauk is offline
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Help us help you better...you really make it difficult by not at least telling us what model 3 series you have and what model year it is.

You're asking 5 series folks to help you with a 3 series problem...which means that we have to dig into information first to see what kind of system you have.

Then it would also help if we knew which kind of key you have...see...us e39 5 series owners have two different types of keys that BMW gave us during the production run.

The early keys have a big fat rubber headed key...and the later models have a harder plastic or "diamond-shaped" key that has a color Roundel button in the center.

Old style key set:


New style key set:
Thanks for this it saved me a visit to BMW...Great
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  #67  
Old 12-06-2010, 01:13 PM
glitch860 glitch860 is offline
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FYI for everyone...

I had to program my remote on my 3-button key again and was having a very difficult time doing so. I realized the mistake I was making every time and is not documented...

When holding the Home button (button 1) - You MUST hold it for at least 2 seconds before pressing the big center button 3 times.

I kept removing the key from the ignition, holding button 1 then immediatly press the big center button three times. Does not work this way!

Hopefully saves someone some grief!
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1999 540i/6
Titanium Silver w/Black interiour
Winter Package
Sports Package
K40 hidden radar detector
235/45ZR-17 General Exclaim UHP
255/40ZR-17 General Exclaim UHP
225/55R16 Bridgestone Blizzak WS-60 - Winter Tires and Rims
Redline Fluids - Diff and Tranny
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  #68  
Old 12-07-2010, 06:20 PM
FusionZ06 FusionZ06 is offline
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Any other ideas? Still having this issue...
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  #69  
Old 12-27-2010, 08:45 PM
ST 530i ST 530i is offline
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I have a 2001 530i with the diamond key, I believe my problem is my car is not charging my key. The last couple times my clicker worked I had to be closer and closer to the vehicle. I can manually lock and unlock the car with the key in the door. I can also fully unlock and lock the car from the inside button. When the car is locked the fuel door stays unlocked, I have checked all fuses and they are all good. I have also been noticing that my car does not automatically lock when I start driving. I would like to throw in that I have noticed my radio stations come in fuzzy when my fog lights are on( not the headlights). The factory security system works as well. If anyone can help me in anyway I would appreciate it.
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  #70  
Old 12-27-2010, 10:49 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST 530i View Post
my car is not charging my key ... If anyone can help me in anyway I would appreciate it.
I can't help you ... but you can help yourself by taking a look at these links from the best links thread ...

- BMW diamond key opening, charging, recoding, & battery replacement (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
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  #71  
Old 12-28-2010, 06:45 AM
ST 530i ST 530i is offline
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i've looked thru all those pages they all talk about replacing the battary in the key, and reprogram the key. Is there a way to check the charging system in the car to see if its working? and what would cause the automatic locking system to stop working?
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  #72  
Old 12-28-2010, 07:12 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST 530i View Post
...what would cause the automatic locking system to stop working?
What would make it stop working? See the bolded text in your quote below. Find out why that actuator is not working and you may get your central locking system working again. The fuel filler door IS a part of the central locking system, so when it is not working properly...something is WRONG with the central locking system.

When you say you "checked all the fuses"...that doesn't do it for us because just about everyone in your situation says that and about 90% of them did NOT check the fuse in the trunk. Also check to see if the fuel filler door actuator is plugged in, and PULL it's fuse (in the trunk) and replace it with an equivalent good fuse (should be a spare up front in the glovebox) then lock the car WITH THE KEY, then check if the fuel filler door is locked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ST 530i View Post
... When the car is locked the fuel door stays unlocked, I have checked all fuses and they are all good...
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 12-28-2010 at 07:14 AM.
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  #73  
Old 12-28-2010, 07:50 AM
ST 530i ST 530i is offline
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i looked at all fuses in the trunk and the glove box all were good. I changed the fuse for central locking system with a spare 7.5a from the glove box. locked car with the key in the door, still no change car locks and arms it self, but the fuel door stays unlocked. i know the ignition charges the key, but is there a way to check the charging system for the key?
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  #74  
Old 12-28-2010, 08:41 AM
ST 530i ST 530i is offline
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ok tried reprogramming the keys, the key i was using still doesn't work, but the other key started working, and the central locking system started working again too. the fuel door lock still doesn't lock but i used a pick and pulled the lock pin out to the lock position and pressed the unlock button on the key, did this a few times and started getting some movement but only to the unlock position, i put some penetrating oil in there and i'm letting sit. i'm still curious if there is a way of checking the key charging system in the ignition.
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  #75  
Old 06-20-2012, 11:22 PM
hurst01 hurst01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
1. No... #18 & #19 are the fuel filler door's emergency release cord. To disconnect the lock ACTUATOR for the fuel filler door (from the central locking system), you need to pull the electrical harness that goes to the actuator. If the actuator is the culprit...disconnecting its electrical power will prevent it from blowing the fuse & preventing the central locking system from not operating correctly.

2. The green cord is the emergency release for the fuel filler DOOR in case of power failure (dead battery) or other event where you can NOT open the fuel filler door under normal circumstances.

item #6 = fuel filler door
item #17 = fuel filler door locking actuator

Qsilver7,

Thank you SO much. I have been fooling with the locks for some time and all I was doing was chasing my tail. I tried locking the doors with the key and the fuel door was unlocked. I replaced the 7.5 A fuse and hit the locks. It locked and would not unlock. It is 2 in the morning and when I unlocked the trunk the alarm went off. I almost dirtied my pants trying to get the alarm off. I looked at your diagram for the actuator and unplugged the connector with the blue wire going into the rear of the actuator. The locks work fine now. I can't thank you enough
Now I have to find out why I have water coming into the car in the rear.

Ed
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