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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#1
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Noise / grinding at bottom of NEW clutch, 1997 e39 528i HELP!
Hey guys, n00b member here...
Just wrapped up installing a factory rep-set(LUK) clutch in my new 97 e39 6-cylinder. Well, new to me anyways. The car has 260k on the odo, so it is NOT new. But this is my first BMW and I love the car. Silver on Black, 5-speed, drove 880 miles to buy it out of state... ANYWAYS, I'm an old DSM freak, so I am no stranger to the wrench. I've been known to pull and replace an engine in an 1G Eagle Talon in less then a day, by myself. So my ability is there... I replaced everything: DMF, clutch/pp, slave, all new bolts in everything. Bled the system twice... The New clutch actually works REALLY well, but WHEN I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO THE FLOOR, THERE IS A TERRIBLE 'GRINDY' SOUND coming from the bell. Almost like the slave is pushing TOO far and causing the presure plate or SOMETHING to make contact with the flywheel. Has anyone heard of such thing? Any help is greatly appreciated, and all comments are welcome. Thanks in advance... |
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#2
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Just ruminating here .....
You wouldn't have installed the throw-out bearing "upside-down" on the guide tube, would you? Naaahh..... I did notice that the throw-out bearing in my RepSet has a couple of "dimples" on the flat parts of the outer plastic sleeve where it meets the fork and has to be pushed into the fork a bit to snap it into place. |
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#3
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Nah, it's in there proper. dimples snapped into place and everything, hard not to get it in there proper once you slide the bearing onto the input shaft and pop the sleeved pivot guide in(opposite the slave cyl side)
Plus, the pedal action is super smooth all the way down untill it reaches the floor. Clutch engages at about 20% OFF the floor, so long as I dont have an "emergency" stop(slam brakes and clutch), I'm good. I've put about 100 miles for the break in period so far, not touching the floor. Once I've gone the 500 recomended for break in, I'll test the floor noise again and post if it's still there... dont want to agravate it! Last edited by NorthGaLocal; 06-04-2012 at 03:11 AM. |
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#4
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Hmm, 20% off the floor sounds like engagement is late for a new clutch, considering .... Yet your thought was your slave cylinder is pushing the fork (and throw-out bearing) out too far?
![]() I'd say if you have metal grindy noise from the bell housing, something is definitely installed wrong or defective and probably won't repair itself, but post back if it goes away or you find out what it was. |
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#5
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It's Gone....
All good now. Weird, but it smoothed itself out. Must be because I replaced EVERYTHING all at once, and ALL surfaces needed their break-in time. The only thing I think could have caused is since all surfaced were new, the PP fingers were meeting the clutch disk some-how. I dunno ![]() But for anyone who's Google search brings them here: " new, clutch, grinding " - give it some time. Maybe you'll get lucky like me and it will wear itself out! |
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