EWS Delete / Bypass and no-start problem finally solved - VERY LONG read

So I still have the no start problem and here's what I've done.
Tested relays in the e-box, front power box, and rear power box. I got power going to the starter but it wasn't cranking so I took the intake off and took the starter to autozone and it tested fine. Then I did the EWS delete. I clipped the green 66 wire going to the DME. Then I cut and bridged what I am pretty certain were the right wires from talking to supertech777 because we both have e34s. with the 66 cut and the wires cut and bridged but no chip or new DME yet. The starter still doesn't engage. So now I'm thinking I have a bad DME but I wanted to ask if there is anything else I should rule out before I get a new one. Just looking for things that could make a no crank situation. Any ideas?

Originally Posted by e12gabe

So I still have the no start problem and here's what I've done.
Tested relays in the e-box, front power box, and rear power box. I got power going to the starter but it wasn't cranking so I took the intake off and took the starter to autozone and it tested fine. Then I did the EWS delete. I clipped the green 66 wire going to the DME. Then I cut and bridged what I am pretty certain were the right wires from talking to supertech777 because we both have e34s. with the 66 cut and the wires cut and bridged but no chip or new DME yet. The starter still doesn't engage. So now I'm thinking I have a bad DME but I wanted to ask if there is anything else I should rule out before I get a new one. Just looking for things that could make a no crank situation. Any ideas?

Just happend to check your post before itting the sack. If you have an automatic transmission, then the neutral safety switch may have failed. That can give the very same problem. Try starting the car in neutral. If still no start, then I would check the switch.

Goodnight

Ok I'm about to tear into the center console to get to the neutral safety switch but I'm not sure now to test it. Bentley is just telling me how to take it out to replace it...I would rather be able to test it somehow has anyone done this?

Originally Posted by e12gabe

Ok I'm about to tear into the center console to get to the neutral safety switch but I'm not sure now to test it. Bentley is just telling me how to take it out to replace it...I would rather be able to test it somehow has anyone done this?

Sorry I can't be of more help here. I have never checked one either. I will be interested to see how it is done.

May I suggest you google "how to test neutral safety switch". There will probably even be some vids on it.

So after it was determined that the EWSII was fried, I went to the dealer and ordered a new one since the garage was not allowed to order it for me. They gave me the garage price of $109 instead of the private price of $158. I ordered a new key because I only had 1. That was $79. I went back to the dealer the next day to pick up the part and key and take them to the garage that was fixing my car. After installation, the car tried to turn over but still won't start. I have to tow the car to the dealer to match the new EWSII to the DME. That will cost $159. Fortunately the tow will be free with AAA. This repare job is now costing over $2000. It better run like new when I finally get it back.

Its alive! Thank guys for helping me out I really appreciate it.

Sent from my LG-P925 using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by vigorpat

Its alive! Thank guys for helping me out I really appreciate it.

Sent from my LG-P925 using Bimmer App

Great

Would love to have a synposis of your problem and solution if you wouldn't mind.

I bought a 95 325i with a spinning ignition tumbler and a useless key. Long story short I bought a red label 413 dme off Craigslist and jumped the ews wires and she started right up. Thanks again for the info .......now I have to change the tumbler because starting my car with a screwdriver is ridiculous.

Sent from my LG-P925 using Bimmer App

Originally Posted by vigorpat

I bought a 95 325i with a spinning ignition tumbler and a useless key. Long story short I bought a red label 413 dme off Craigslist and jumped the ews wires and she started right up. Thanks again for the info .......now I have to change the tumbler because starting my car with a screwdriver is ridiculous.

Sent from my LG-P925 using Bimmer App

Glad you got her going. Thanks for the summary.

Greetings Guys
Im new here on this forum, i drive an e36 320i 95 model, I know most countries dont have this model. I hope and trust this forum can assist me with my problem.
My recent problem is that the car cranks, has fuel delivery ( I removed the fuel rail hose and put it inside the bottle and cranked the car and fuel is delivered) and no spark at all. The ignition coils harness (wires) have no current, i suspect the Siemens DME, I know most have Bosch. My Siemens 5wk9003 ms40.1 is scarce and ews enabled. I would like to know if I get a Siemens MS40.1 5wk9002 (non ews) will it work if I cut the wires and join them or only cut wire #4. My car can crank without the DME. Please advise!!!

Originally Posted by MKM455GP

Greetings Guys
Im new here on this forum, i drive an e36 320i 95 model, I know most countries dont have this model. I hope and trust this forum can assist me with my problem.
My recent problem is that the car cranks, has fuel delivery ( I removed the fuel rail hose and put it inside the bottle and cranked the car and fuel is delivered) and no spark at all. The ignition coils harness (wires) have no current, i suspect the Siemens DME, I know most have Bosch. My Siemens 5wk9003 ms40.1 is scarce and ews enabled. I would like to know if I get a Siemens MS40.1 5wk9002 (non ews) will it work if I cut the wires and join them or only cut wire #4. My car can crank without the DME. Please advise!!!

Hello. Welcome. I'm not familar with the 320 or the DME's used in them. I would recommend that you rule out all other problems prior to changing the DME. I suggest checking your crankshaft position sensor and your main relay (also known as the DME relay). Although, if you are getting fuel, the CPS is likely not the culprit, but it only takes a few minutes to check it. If you indeed determine that your DME is bad, you can try the non-EWS DME that you mention with the wiring changes listed in this write up. Hopefully it will work. If so, make sure and share it here and with the folks on your side of the pond.

Good luck.

So as not to retype all here is a link to what I have so far. Started as intermittant & now is 100% no crank.

Thanks if anyone has suggestions I have some limited electrical skills. I'm not above doing a bypass or delete chip rather than $$$$ the dealer.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1854558

THX

Hey Froggy. I read your other post. Unfortunately, I don't know that I can provide much of an assist. I wish I could, but I really don't know much about electronics at all. I was able to determine that my problem was a bad DME through ruling everything else out. My car would crank over, but I didn't have spark or fuel.

I also don't know if the EWS bypass procedure I used will work on your car since it is an M. I don't know if a red label DME and wiring mod will work with your M sytem.

I don't know if this will be helpful or not: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/BMW_EWS.pdf

Good luck.

My link in post 137 is updated, pic of dme & ews, bypass of ews (jumper) is done and now car will crank but not start. I believe this confirms ews (somewhere) has a fault up to maybe ews module.

The no start is because the ews is unplugged & jumpered so that was expected.

an ecu specialist in FL is walking me thru.

Ck it out if interested & comments here still welcome.

I think I now need to "hack" the dme to progress from no start to run.

I solved my no crank by bypassing the EWS II. If anyone is interested click the link to go to the threads in the other forum & in my sig is a link to videos I do on repairs. Thanks all.

Hey guys this is my first time doing this...btw hope you all are doing good with your cars...so I came home one night showered and went back out to the car and tried to start it, however when I went to start it all of my dash light came on and music and a/c...but didnt get any crank nor any noises. So i then had checked my ignition switch, battery, alternator, and starter all are good. I even tried to start the car in neutral and nothing. I do not know what could be causing this problem...if you have any ideas or you know or have had this same problem please let me know what you did to fix it thank you for your time

Originally Posted by Miso916

Hey guys this is my first time doing this...btw hope you all are doing good with your cars...so I came home one night showered and went back out to the car and tried to start it, however when I went to start it all of my dash light came on and music and a/c...but didnt get any crank nor any noises. So i then had checked my ignition switch, battery, alternator, and starter all are good. I even tried to start the car in neutral and nothing. I do not know what could be causing this problem...if you have any ideas or you know or have had this same problem please let me know what you did to fix it thank you for your time

Hello Miso. It does sound as if your EWS may be activated. It is possible that your neutral safety switch may be bad. Try a second key if you have it in the event that the transponder in the one key may have gone bad. I don't know if the fix in this thread will work for you or not. Your car may have a differing EWS system than the 95 model did. Everything that I have read on the subject indicates that the DME swap and wiring change only work for the 95.

Good luck.

do you know where that is located at so that i may check it i have not been able to locate it at all thank you

Def ck the clutch safety sw. On my 95 I do not have one, but they were intoduced soon after.


It is a simple elec. sw button that is on the clutch pedal shaft. Get your head down under there & look for it.



We will try & help fix it with you.

Originally Posted by Miso916

do you know where that is located at so that i may check it i have not been able to locate it at all thank you

I assume you are referring to the neutral safety switch. It is located at the area at the base of the transmission gear selector. You need to get a copy of the Bentely manual for the E36. Here is a link where you can download it:

http://www.mikerophonerecords.com/bimmer/

It is covered on page 250/4.

I also recommend you join up with the guys on the E36 forum here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=97

They are a nice enough bunch of guys, just expect some hazing there. Just grow an extra layer of skin and you will be fine.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Edit: I am assuming you have an automatic transmission.

Originally Posted by BMR_LVR

I assume you are referring to the neutral safety switch. It is located at the area at the base of the transmission gear selector. You need to get a copy of the Bentely manual for the E36. Here is a link where you can download it:

http://www.mikerophonerecords.com/bimmer/

It is covered on page 250/4.

I also recommend you join up with the guys on the E36 forum here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=97

They are a nice enough bunch of guys, just expect some hazing there. Just grow an extra layer of skin and you will be fine.

Hope this helps and good luck.

Edit: I am assuming you have an automatic transmission.

I was thinking a stick. What do you have?

Originally Posted by froggy47

I was thinking a stick. What do you have?

I have an automatic transmission.

I finished typing my response above and yours had beat me to the punch. I saw your advice on the cultch safety switch (dead on good advice if he has a manual tranny btw) and that is what made me edit my post to mention assuming that the guy had an auto as well.

Also, to Miso, check your starter relay as well.

I have problem with my BMW 1999 525i. Everytime I switch to second gear it always crank and I always go straight to 3rd , 4th & 5th and they are fine. I need some advice what to do.

I'm sorry if im in the wrong thread i just want to share my problem with my BMW car. I have problem with my BMW 323is. Everytime I switch it to second gear it always crank and I always go straight to 3rd , 4th & 5th. I need some advice.