
|
|
||||||
|
E34 (1989 - 1995)
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Really bad running weak spark but lots of
Hi,
my Beamer started running bad like 1 or 2 of cylinders not working so i checked sparks. I haven't done cars for a while,so I can't be sure but I remember it being a steady big blue spark going to the centre. What I'm getting is lots of small sparks but it's like they're avoiding going in the centre of the electrode,just all around the edges.Like they've gone a bit loopy and had kids All spark plugs are same but 2 of them weren't right,one was black and sooty,the other oily. Changed sparkies,no difference to the wierd sparking. Coil only registered .27(bad) and 6400 centre(that one ok)so got another(was getting voltage while ignition on but about a volt lower than battery voltage). Here's what I'm really not sure about at the mo...the shop didn't have the proper one in stock so he gave me another saying it would work ok.I should have tested the resistance before I put in car but I forgot,exited at maybe getting it going. It didn't seem to make any difference. When i took coil out next day that was .23 resistance and 4860 to centre(all wrong!) What i really would like to know (besides how to fix problem obviously),is could the coil have been bust almost straight away after putting on,or was I just given a coil with totally wrong resistance,and it's just a coincidence it's close to the bust coil? Have tested the CPS after reading loads in this brill forum and if it's the right one I tested(behind a long plastic box under manifold near the starter motor,a right pain to get to and worse to get back on)it read 504 which is still well within the 10% tolerance. I'm getting small 9 - 17ohm resistance between coil +15 and ground.Is it supposed to be like that? I have a bentley manual,am doing tappets tomorrow as just got rocker cover gasket,see if that helps. Is really starting to get me down as have hardly any money can only afford to buy one thing now,don't have any more than 50 pounds;will have to leave it if it needs more(or save up). I do really need car tho' as mrs can't get around at all can only walk a few yards so any help really appreciated. Oh changed fuel filter,oil filter and did oil change about 3-4 months ago just after MOT. And is (i think its idle control valve,T shaped,with the pipes)supposed to buzz all the time when ignition on? Thanks for reading Last edited by simons; 07-03-2012 at 11:05 AM. |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Edit Add
No one knows if a new coil can bust straight away or not,and why it's likely to happen?
Just want to know whether to order a new 'proper' one or not,was I was just sold wrong one. I've heard a 12v coil is a 12v coil,should work temporarily on just about any car. I'm sorry i'm a bit scatty with my writing but do need help,just waiting for reply before I do anything as I'm not sure at all at the mo. Thanx
Last edited by simons; 07-04-2012 at 10:28 AM. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
How about the plug wires, what are the condition of those.
Also, pull off the distributor cap and rotor and have a look at them. If they are overly worn or damaged then this could be your problem. You seem to have covered everything else as far as the ignition system goes, just check these things above. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
AND yes your ICV is supposed to buzz with ignition position II.
|
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
I found the(or a) prob
Thanks for replies.
Distributor cap metal bits(i can never remember name of them)were burnt and bit worn,sanded down a bit is shiny now,didn't need to rub much.Rotor had like electrical deposits on it so sanded that aswell to metal.Leads aren't brill,was gonna buy some more soon but seem to test ok,and no sparks in the dark. I took rocker cover off to adjust tappets and one of the rockers the end has snapped off(about an inch,with the adjuster on)so it's been bouncing around inside banging into the springs.Luckily I don't think springs go wide enough gap for it to get caught up in it. Now I've got to get new one of them and find out how hard it is to put on.I can't believe it,i've never seen it happen in any car.I've never run low on oil or anything and had a full bmw history when i got it 3 years ago. I admit is probably my fault for not looking after it properly.I don't hack around in it thank god or it might have got worse Any tips?and any other things i might have wrecked because of it.I did about 10-15 miles with it like that. Still doesn't explain why new coil is 0.27 resistance tho,and voltage at coil is a volt less than at battery. Thanks Last edited by simons; 07-04-2012 at 12:45 PM. |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
Broken rockers can happen if the valves go for a long time without being adjusted. The bentley shoul tell you how to replace the rockers.
|
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
I don't know why you are getting one less volt than battery voltage but here are some resistance tests you can do:
(from1990 525i etm) .Disconnect battery. Open your electronics box where the ecu is and remove the ecu connector. Look at the pins on the ecu connector, they should be numbered. Using your multimeter, check the resistance from the +15 terminal at the coil to pin #27 at the ecu. Then check the resistance from terminal 1 at the coil, to pin #1 at the ecu. If everything is okay I would suggest getting the correct ignition coil. You will either have to buy new or see if there are any junkyards in your area with an M20 engine car (e30 325i, e28 525i, e34 525i before 1991MY). Good luck |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Good help thanks just a q about taking rocker arm off please
Thanks alot for help,will do resistance tests on ecu,wouldn't have known to do that otherwise.
Gonna do rocker arm after that I noticed someone else in forum replaced I/O rockers 3rd from front just taking out radiator.Does anyone know if there's still enough room to pull out rod when it's the 2nd rocker from front needs replacing?(top one) I'm hoping haven't got to raise engine or take head off as gaskets expensive. Thanks again @paperplane94 Yeah I was told by a few people they were hydraulic on them and couldn't be adjusted.Kwik fit told me that aswell...I would have done them otherwise as it had a clicking,I assumed was cam.Will find out for myself next time I think. Last edited by simons; 07-05-2012 at 03:11 PM. |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, hydraulic adjusters were for the MY car after yours.
Never attempted a rocker replacement myself. You will have better luck if you post in the e30 forum below. They have pretty much the same engine variant as ours (M20) but they are more experienced with them. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forumdisplay.php?f=143 Of course you can ask here again also. Good luck. |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks for expertise
Great help thanks,I've asked on the E30 forums just waiting reply.Thanks for referral.
To be honest I'm not sure now whether to go ahead with replacing the rocker arm,am scared I'll do it and something else that has to be fixed crops up like bent valves or holed piston etc. Also looking increasingly like it's a head off job(which would tip the scales to not doing it as can't afford the gaskets,especially when there's a chance something else could be wrong) or drilling holes for rocker rod, cause it's second from front one that's broken. I asked in other forum and it makes me cringe to ask,but can anyone give me an idea how long car will last driving it like that(I don't drive fast or rev but need to merge onto A road occasionally)Am I likely to bust something else quick,or will it last ages like that? I just have to have a car till I can save and get another cheapie,if I decide to do that. Thanks again
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Forum Navigation | |||||||
|
Today's Posts Search | ||||||
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|