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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993. |
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#1
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so i just recently been overhauling a barely used m20 motor for my 87 325e ( blew up the old one).. ive been steadily bying parts very pay check to build the engine to completet .. okay so the motors in and eveything in it, on it, and around it , is brand new except the alternator.. so its all in and i was hopeing the fire it up yesterday and it would not start.. it has no spark, and the fuel pump is not turning on.. so theres no fuel i hot wired the fuel pump and it works so thats not the problem so im wondering if the the computer has some part in this i dont know.. all my fuses are good the battery and starter both work it just doest go VROOM after i turn the key.. it just cranks over but no fire .. any suggestions on what i might need to check ..
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#2
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Is the crank sensor new? Is it installed correctly? My guess is the ECU isn't "seeing" then crank move, so it never sends injector pulses or spark to the engine. It will also prevent the fuel pump from running unless it senses the engine is turning.
Also, why were you overhauling a barely used engine?
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Quotes to live by: guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13 Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Honorary Forum Grandpa/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff BMW-CCA #441426 1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia" I NEED A NAP, DANG IT! |
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#3
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Yeah i'd check the cps. Are you running the same one from your old motor?
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#4
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Just a question but why put the 2.7 back in? My 2.7 is on its way out.. I'd atleast put a 2.5 in it if I weren't doing my 3.5 swap already. I've had the 2.5 and I'm currently driving the 2.7. IMO 2.5 all day long over the 2.7.
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1985 335i ![]() Black on Black coupe 5spd Tokico lowering springs, KYB struts and shocks, BavAuto strut bars, SPC adjustable camber plates, Ireland Engineering rear toe and camber kit, Sparco buckets, Rota Torque 16x7 fronts 17x9.5 rear, Hella headlamps with HID conversion, all red taillights, MSD coil,M30B35 swap http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...36#post7573736 M20B27 for sale in Cincinnati |
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#5
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Is your coil getting any voltage when in the ON position?
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#6
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Quote:
Sent from my DROIDX using Bimmer App |
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#7
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Yup I'm boosting mine once I get the I top end
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#8
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You need more then the i top end if you have a 325 with the 2.7 bottom end youll need the i intake
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#9
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Quote:
of course, there could be two issues at the same time please correct me if im wrong.
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#10
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I know what I need to do the build
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#11
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The Bentley manual points to these things as possible reasons for no spark:
1. distributor 2. spark plug wires 3. coil 4. spark plugs 5. CPS 6. DME/ECU I'd strongly recommend getting the Bentley manual. It has saved my ass a few times. |
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#12
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my reason for overhauling is kuz i blew up my original motor so i got a used one from a wrecking yard out of an automatic.. but to be sure i was putting in a good motor i bought all new parts for the engine.. timing belt n tensioner,, gaskets spark plugs oil pump radiator, but kept the same wiring harness!
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#13
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yes im running the same cps as the old motor and same computer inside the glove compartment
all the same wiring and electronics. but new mechanics..lol |
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#14
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heres the deal.. when I blew up my last motor I was driving about 90mph (in 5th gear) .. and i wanted to go faster so i was making a shift down to 4th gear.. in the proccess of shifting i made a misjudged shift into 2nd gear blowing up the motor.. so the car dies on the highway and will no longer start .. by the way i did not break the timing belt. i found a valve in the bottom of my oil pan with alot of shattered metal.. anyways by makeing the bad shift from 5th to 2nd .. could that result in a surge signal or some type of backfire to the computer and ruin it or possible that being a way to ruin the CPS?? i have no idea but worst case scenario i buy new CPS and
new computer.. but before i don that i need to figure out wats happening and why it will not fire up ?? |
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#15
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Quote:
Sent from my SGH-T499 using Bimmer App |
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#16
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Does that engine have the pulse sensor to? I've seen to many times people plug those in backwards
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#17
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pulse sensor.. wouldnt it be those two sensors on the side of thebell housing/or tranny? ya there the same ones because i kept all the original wiring from the old motor just swapped em on to the new motor! i checked them being mixed up .. still doesnt fire.. i wonder if the ecm is damaged from the last motor .. do thos commonly go out in e30's? if so does buying a new ecm require me to restes signals n all kinds of crapp or can i buy a new one, plug it in and its done? does it all bye itself? how do those work
Last edited by alpinewhiteE30; 07-25-2012 at 03:48 PM. |
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#18
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Plug and play. Nothing to replacing a DME.
I hope you don't mean a "new" DME but rather a different DME. These don't go bad all that often and you'll lots of people selling these on online forums for fairly cheap. |
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#19
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Those cps on the bell housing go bad all the time on older motors. Chech with a multi-meter. 3 wires - one pair should show the resistance of the little coil and the other open (infinate). The 'open' teminal is the shroud round the wires. If you have open on all pairs of terminals the coil is the problem and you need new units. I use Pelican Parts for stuff like that.
One of the the two sensors counts ringgear teeth and the other gets a pulse at 20deg BTDC (? - working from memory). If they are the wrong way round the ecu gets very confused! Last edited by BMWFatherFigure; 08-07-2012 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Extra info. |
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