1992 325is IDEAS?

Originally Posted by dprater2008

Thanks good tip for the order in which to adress things. Sick picture man. It made me geek out though. Trying to find a metallic blue to match is becomeing stressful. Started painting with one and sanded it back off because it was too dark. Should the calipers be replaced or just rebuilt? It looks like new replacements are kind of expenseive which I expected. Is pelican parts a good site to order off of? What do you reccomend?

It was supposed to.

You want the same blue/blau?
Is it montrealblau? looks like it..

Get your paint code of the drivers side shock tower..
Go to automotivetouchup.com order rattle cans.
Take your time, dont hesitate, act like a pro.
lots of sanding.. and double checking is key.

Calilpers.. ?
rebuild if needed.. thats the cheap.
use good brake fluid

You can swap out for M3 calipers if you want..
but you need the spindles and stuff too.
bolts right up..

pelicanparts.. are well known and reputable.
stay away from anything that is chinese..
You dont put soy sauce on bratwurst.. or sauerkraut fried rice.

Only german parts Ok'd by BMW.. solves lots of headaches.

I would be willing to help you put a plan of attack together for your E36.
Some strategery is involved

The origional paint is metalicblau, good tip though man. I had no idea that you could take the paint code and get matching paint in rattle cans. I do want to make it look as good as I can. I really want to make it run good, make it quick, and handel well. I am not rich by any means, but don't want to cheap out on anything. I want to get it in running order before I take the body work any further. Cooling system and fluids first, fuel filter and pump, and so on. I want it to be solid.

Originally Posted by dprater2008

The original paint is metalicblau, good tip though man. I had no idea that you could take the paint code and get matching paint in rattle cans.

Thats why I told ya.

Originally Posted by dprater2008

I do want to make it look as good as I can.

prep, sand, prep, sand, prep, sand, and when you are sick of it.. do it all over again.

Originally Posted by dprater2008

I really want to make it run good, make it quick, and handle well.
I am not rich by any means, but don't want to cheap out on anything.
I want to get it in running order before I take the body work any further.
Cooling system and fluids first, fuel filter and pump, and so on.
I want it to be solid.

You'll have it.
Dont cut corners.
take your time
do it right
double check
Start documenting your maintenance intervals..

is it true that the 92 models had no speed govener? how fast do you think my car would go in good running condition? im dying to start working on this thing. i cant help but dream about this thing in the mean time and what its going to be like. i know a guy with a 240sx with a boosted sr20det? i kniw his car may be faster in straights but i want the best of both worlds speed and handling. how much power can you get out of a m50 without boosting it. like ball park range

95 easy.

lol good one

one time i went somewhere, in the triple digits

Originally Posted by Kdoherty

one time i went somewhere, in the triple digits

But it was a dry heat so you hardly felt it right? LOL







Been there man (high trip digits that is).......129F

That "dry heat" stuff is BS.

Originally Posted by dc_wright

But it was a dry heat so you hardly felt it right? LOL







Been there man (high trip digits that is).......129F

That "dry heat" stuff is BS.

"dry" or not anything over 100 is brutal.

Dude that was a great deal. I would pay $400 for it all day long!! Heck I would pay $700 for it all day long!! I'm really interested too see how the paint and progress comes out please post pics as you can!!

I'm so tired of seeing people say no to ebay, ebay is "crap". I've bought a clutch, gaskets, fliters, rims, arm rest, vanos, lights, control arm kits, camber kits, short shiftier, fog lights, rear seats, etc, etc, ETC, and NOT one single problem. I don't know why but people are very stuck in their ways on here. More money don't not mean better. Do your research and read from those who HAS tried it and knows. I've read about RACELAND coilovers on here and everyone was saying... noooooooo... spend 1000 - 6000, but I have a friend with a 96 328is with raceland coilovers ($369)... how long? Two years and still feel like new. He also has a turbo charger from ebay, had it for a year. Point is, ebay and any other place that sells for a lower price, its not "bad", "low quality", or "crap". Read reviews from the part OWNER who has USED it, then make up your mind. More then likely, you will get a good deal.

Originally Posted by dprater2008

is it true that the 92 models had no speed govener?
how fast do you think my car would go in good running condition?
im dying to start working on this thing.
i cant help but dream about this thing in the mean time and what its going to be like.
i know a guy with a 240sx with a boosted sr20det.
i kniw his car may be faster in straights but i want the best of both worlds speed and handling.
how much power can you get out of a m50 without boosting it. like ball park range

governor

fast?
Just recently scientists discovered a new unit of measurement.. FASTS.

Your buddies 240 will beat ya.. however.. the NON VANOS motors are really good for F/I! about 300hp..

related:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1389831

You should really take the time to develop a plan of attack for your car, and where you want it to be.

Dont do E, F, & G, without doing A, B, & C, FIRST.


Suggestion:
Getting all maintenance up to date!
Start keeping track of your maintenance intervals
Document, and record/keep receipts.. so you know WHEN things were done.
Fix the little things.. buttons, switches, rubber, etc.. (you know, all the small stuff)

Once its all rolling smooth..
In this order:
brakes
suspension
intake
headers
exhaust
"chip"

I don't plan on boosting my car I do plan on rebuilding the engine in the long run though maybe over the winter. The car basically has no rust and I want to keep it that way. So I am not going to drive it in the snow I'm keeping it tucked away. It's awsome that there's so many people who love these e36's like I do. There way better than any jap crap in my opinion. Just looking at the rear suspension setup you know that they are serious cars

Originally Posted by dprater2008

I don't plan on boosting my car I do plan on rebuilding the engine in the long run though maybe over the winter. The car basically has no rust and I want to keep it that way. So I am not going to drive it in the snow I'm keeping it tucked away. It's awsome that there's so many people who love these e36's like I do. There way better than any jap crap in my opinion. Just looking at the rear suspension setup you know that they are serious cars

no no.. PLAN ON IT.

When you rebuild the block.. make it bulletproof.. build it for F/I!

SO.. if you DO actually boost it.. turbo or supercharged.. or twincharged.
It will be ready for it..

Or IF YOU DONT boost it..
It will be able to handle anything you throw at it.


EDIT: been giving it some thought.. boost it.
Blow the paper curtains off your buddies 240sx .. and the car he buys next to keep up with you.

Good luck with the car. I have some questions that were answered here already...I have a 92 also Calypso Red, M3 exhaust, bilstein suspension, Tranny has some issues too though. I was told it was a GETRAG and to get a ZF from a later model with a few mods to make it work. Any comments or ideas would help. When you do drop the tranny check the starter and clean it up, may have issues later and it is easier to change it when the tranny is out, use quality parts and oils etc. don't waste time being cheap, I decided a long time ago to treat it like it was going to last a million miles, only 800,000 more to go and still strong little engine, just needs some gears now...

Originally Posted by Scott Stites

Good luck with the car. I have some questions that were answered here already...I have a 92 also Calypso Red, M3 exhaust, bilstein suspension, Tranny has some issues too though. I was told it was a GETRAG and to get a ZF from a later model with a few mods to make it work. Any comments or ideas would help. When you do drop the tranny check the starter and clean it up, may have issues later and it is easier to change it when the tranny is out, use quality parts and oils etc. don't waste time being cheap, I decided a long time ago to treat it like it was going to last a million miles, only 800,000 more to go and still strong little engine, just needs some gears now...

And... what the is question?



SEARCH.

READ.

THEN POST YOUR QUESTIONS.
for the record.. thread jacking isn't the best way to get a response.

What year can I find a zf transmission, is any specific year better than another, is there anything I need to do is far is extra parts or modifications?

Originally Posted by Scott Stites

What year can I find a zf transmission, is any specific year better than another, is there anything I need to do is far is extra parts or modifications?

NO, this isnt a repost.. I think you missed it.



SEARCH.

READ.

THEN POST YOUR QUESTIONS.
thread jacking isn't the best way to get a response.



You need to start your OWN THREAD..

ZF trannies were standard equipment on all E36 328s & M3s. Year doesn't matter so much as long as you've the right flywheel & clutch. (Not one for a 325.)

Originally Posted by bmw-mania

You dont put soy sauce on bratwurst.. or sauerkraut fried rice.

Idk. That doesn't sound half bad! Maybe some bratwurst on a bed of fried rice?

@ bmw mania, so your saying that the non vanos engines can make 300hp with f/i without doing anything to the engine? the more i think about it i do feel like boosting it. because i dont plan on trying to get it out before winter this year so, i kind of am planning to do it over the this winter. Is anyone familiar with tokico shocks? there is a kit i found for like $300 im not going to be racing on a track or anything, so they seem to be reasonable for backroads or daily driving. Veteran011 what is swirl removal? i was told that drilled and slotted rotors arent good for daily driving. i kind of wanted to go with drilled and slotted because if i do want to drive fast i dont want to worry about them warping. would i benefit from running wider tires handleing wise?

Swirl marks in my paint. Previous owner took it to too many automated car washes.

Originally Posted by dprater2008

@ bmw mania, so your saying that the non vanos engines can make 300hp with f/i without doing anything to the engine? the more i think about it i do feel like boosting it. because i dont plan on trying to get it out before winter this year so, i kind of am planning to do it over the this winter. Is anyone familiar with tokico shocks? there is a kit i found for like $300 im not going to be racing on a track or anything, so they seem to be reasonable for backroads or daily driving. Veteran011 what is swirl removal? i was told that drilled and slotted rotors arent good for daily driving. i kind of wanted to go with drilled and slotted because if i do want to drive fast i dont want to worry about them warping. would i benefit from running wider tires handleing wise?

It all takes work, prater.. all of it.

No..
The NON Vanos motors are capable of 300hp.

Yes, you WILL have to do work on the motor.. "when" is up to you.
If you take your time.. and go easy.. It will last you a while.
OR just go apesh!t the first time out 12psi

Boost it, Blow it, Re-Build it... Make it bulletproof.
By then.. you will have ironed out all your kinks in your system.



And.. Ill keep repeating this one..
DO NOT put CHINESE crap on a GERMAN car.
You dont put soy sauce on bratwurst.. Or, Sauerkraut on fried rice.


Handling wise.. Its not about your "tires".
Do maintenance.
Check suspension.. bushings.. replace if necessary.
Then, start asking opinions on tires... until then.. your rolling on pizza cutters for a reason.
Note: Springs AND Shocks work TOGETHER..
Example: for country back roads.. Bilstein HD & Stock Springs.
Paint swirls? Learn how to color sand.


Drilled and Slotted..? WTF?
Unless this is your designated track car.. NO..
And, even then.. WTF? NO.
Warping? Proper braking will eliminate that.. NOT your type of rotor.

Please do some homework on brake systems. READ. READ. READ.
Cross drilled anything is suspect..
A lot of them are blanks drilled by some jackass in LA trying to turn a fast buck.

Best bet for brakes..
Get quality rotors.. brembo, zimmerman, EBC, whatever..
Cross drilled rotors are to lighten the rotating mass and vent brake gases..
Slotted rotors shave off a bit of the pad, and vent brake gases..
Cross drilled & Slotted rotors are pointless for everyday driving.
(unless all you do all day is stop from 200mph, and replace your brakes)
Quality BLANKS (not drilled or slotted) give you more braking surface... get the hint?
MORE BRAKE surface = MORE STOP

Serious.. the E36 brakes are badass.. They made em right.
If yours are tip-top, you have good fluid, good pads, good rotors, and if you know how to brake;
there isnt much that is going to stop you quicker.

In the mean time.. resurface the ones you have.. (you can get them cross drilled, if you want )

The brakes on the E36 were designed to stop the car on the AUTOBAHN from 150mph.
They are more than sufficient for normal driving in the USA.
If you want to IMPROVE your braking:
BUY GREAT PADS, braided lines, better rotors, rebuild your calipers, flush brake fluid
and replace it with the best brake fluid you can find.
(and if you want to do M3 brake swap.. its the same)

And you dont have to do all four corners at once if you cant afford it.
space it out.. do the front brakes one weekend.. do the rears the other.
just make sure you budget accordingly.. buy complete. NOT HALF ASSED.
Whatever you think its going to cost.. DOUBLE IT.
However long you think its going to take.. TRIPLE IT.
That way.. when you come in under budget, and ahead of schedule.. YOUVE DONE IT RIGHT.

Cheers!

i know that it all take works and lots of it. i just took it as you meant you can put a turbo kit on it without doing anything to the internals and get 300 without it blowing up. im sure you could but how long would it last?mi appreciate all the tips and what not, and i dont mean to ask stupid questions, because i am not dumb. this is my first bmw and the car has been at my dads which in a different state at the moment, so i am just limited to the computer when it comes to looking at things, so im still learning and it seems that their is alot to learn, more than just your average car. ive decided that first thing i am doing is cooling system overhaul i found a kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-Cool...eb8c41&vxp=mtr does that price sound about right? following that is changing all the fluids, oil, tranny, and diff. then a slave cylinder rebuild to see if that takes care of the clutch dragging. that kit on ebay seems legit to me and i diddnt see any soy sauce in there lol. from now on i will not even look at anything that sounds japenese for my car haha. thanks again. one more thing i am going to go with the bilstien hd shocks and when it comes tme to get them i did want to drop the car maybe an inch to just get rid of the wheel well gap would those work with lowering springs? or would i have to reconsider getting a differnet model of shock???

Originally Posted by dprater2008

i know that it all take works and lots of it.
I just took it as you meant you can put a turbo kit on it without doing anything to the internals and get 300 without it blowing up.
Im sure you could but how long would it last?
I appreciate all the tips and what not, and i dont mean to ask stupid questions, because i am not dumb.
This is my first bmw and the car has been at my dads which in a different state at the moment, so i am just limited to the computer when it comes to looking at things, so im still learning and it seems that their is alot to learn, more than just your average car.
Ive decided that first thing i am doing is cooling system overhaul i found a kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/bmw-e36-cool...eb8c41&vxp=mtr
does that price sound about right?
Following that is changing all the fluids, oil, tranny, and diff.
Then a slave cylinder rebuild to see if that takes care of the clutch dragging.
That kit on ebay seems legit to me and i diddnt see any soy sauce in there lol.
From now on i will not even look at anything that sounds japenese for my car haha. Thanks again.
One more thing i am going to go with the bilstien hd shocks and when it comes tme to get them i did want to drop the car maybe an inch to just get rid of the wheel well gap would those work with lowering springs?
Or would i have to reconsider getting a differnet model of shock???

Yeah.. you can boost it.. you can get 300.. I think you'll be happy with 200..
Its a completely different animal.
Eventually with hard use.. (like anything) it will need MAINTENANCE.

I dont think you're dumb.
You're learning.. now learn from others mistakes.. (thats the hard part)
Yup.. there is a lot to learn.. but It sounds like you havent put this much energy
or effort into a vehicle before.
If you give it some time and patience.. The E36 are VERY rewarding!

If you dont have documentation (receipts, or service records) stating
when the cooling system was last checked/serviced.. then, yes.
Check Inspect, and replace as necessary the cooling system and associated components.
I strongly suggest getting rid of that horrendous expansion tank.
(they're weak, and a royal pain in the a$$ to bleed the air out since they are lower than the head)
Check Euro hose routing.. (Ill try to add you a link)
And do the Fan Delete Mod.. but, KEEP your FAN.
The lower thermostat, AND fan will insure that it will run on the cold side.
Oh.. and make sure you bleed the air out properly.. or you will get a false temp reading.

Change all fluids with premium fluids.. YES it does make a difference.
If you're doing the clutch cyl.. flush fluid.. and SS braided clutch line.

NO SOY SAUCE.. Good JOB!
It will only bring hassles later.. I swear.
Only quality parts.. or you'll be doing the same jobs TWICE.

Do you live on country-ass roads? Pot holes? Hammered pavement?
Then, I suggest.. NO DROP.. Just get better shocks.

If you live on good roads, and you're a very AWARE driver..
Then minimal drop is beneficial.
I would go for sport springs.. NOT RACE, NOT SLAM.
Bilstein has a "sport" set coincidentally..

Shocks & Springs work together.. The best bet is to get a set meant to work together.
Since I am unable to lay my hands on said vehicle.
You will have to use your better judgement.

Honestly.. for all purposes.. stock is perfectly suitable. Its a blend between performance, and comfort.


and as with all maintenance..
WRITE DOWN DATE
KEEP RECEIPTS
RECORD EVERYTHING

and pics, or it didnt happen.

I look forward to seeing your progress.
Cheers!

ps - use the return/enter button..