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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:51 AM
Watts2590 Watts2590 is offline
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alarm question

today my alarm in my car randomly went off twice in 5 minutes. i turned it off and after the second time it didn't go off again afterwards. Now i just checked and my alarm still works however whenever i lock the car it doesn't make that beep sound that it use to make. Everytime i hit unlock it makes the beep beep sound still but when i hit lock it doesn't make that beep sound. anyone know why?
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  #2  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:58 AM
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When it comes to alarm problems, there are 2 switches that are notorious for causing problems....the hood switch, and the trunk switch. Check them for proper operation.
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2012, 11:15 AM
Watts2590 Watts2590 is offline
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wow im a dumbass. it must of been the trunk... only thing is the dashboard didn't say the trunk was opened
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2012, 02:10 AM
scottjoh scottjoh is offline
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If you want to know exactly what set off the alarm and not guess you need to read the codes from the ZKE module. The cause of the alarm is stored in the shadow area. Use INPA to read them since it will tell you the fault and # of occurrences. Forget CarSoft, it sucks! You can use PA Soft 1.40, but, it will only give you the fault description, but, not the # of occurrences. PA Soft 1.36 is the opposite, it will tell you the # of occurrences (if you know how to read it), but, no fault description, just code number, but, if you know how to decode the codes then it's better than 1.40. GT1 won't tell you the number of occurrences either.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:14 PM
Watts2590 Watts2590 is offline
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whenever i hit the lock button and the beep sound happens my alarm will randomly go off about 2 minutes later but when the beep sound doesn't happen my alarm won't go off randomly. its pissing me off.
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  #6  
Old 07-10-2012, 01:41 PM
E46_Ci E46_Ci is offline
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One of the two switches is bad (sounds like it could be trunk if that "fixed" the problem before)... the alarm won't arm if one of those (or a door) is "open" (hence no one beep on lock... it will always beep twice on unlock)... if it does arm on the chance that the switch is "closed" when you lock the car (one beep heard), then the switch becomes "open" again (for whatever fault reason) the alarm will sound.
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  #7  
Old 07-27-2012, 09:43 AM
deccody deccody is offline
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Where is the fuses for the alarm? Thanks
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  #8  
Old 07-27-2012, 01:22 PM
JetBlackE46 JetBlackE46 is offline
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where exactly is the trunk switch?

does anyone have a pic?
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2012, 01:25 PM
deccody deccody is offline
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I looked myself for the trunk switch so yeah didn't see one lol anyone fuses for alarm and trunk switch location
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  #10  
Old 07-27-2012, 08:38 PM
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crowz crowz is offline
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The trunk "switch" is part of the lock itself. There isnt a seperate switch for the alarm. My drivers door "switch" is going bad on my car. It doesnt know half the time when I open the door which makes the remote locking act wierd. I have to unlock and then relock sometimes to get the remote to lock the doors. Its not something you can fix by itself so you have to replace the power lock unit to solve it.

Also the tilt sensor in the trunk goes bad sometimes which can cause the effect your getting. Its located in the trunk fender areas above the battery. You remove the side cover there to get to it.

As mentioned the inpa softwares the ideal thing to know exactly why the alarms going off.
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  #11  
Old 07-29-2012, 02:13 PM
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Just lube the hood sensor with a tiny bit of liquid lubricant.



When you add the lubricant push the switch in and out a dozen times to get it all lubed up then wipe off the excess. I did that and the hood switch has been fine ever since.
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  #12  
Old 07-29-2012, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverT View Post
Just lube the hood sensor with a tiny bit of liquid lubricant.



When you add the lubricant push the switch in and out a dozen times to get it all lubed up then wipe off the excess. I did that and the hood switch has been fine ever since.
A small dab of dielectric grease would work well....
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  #13  
Old 07-29-2012, 08:43 PM
deccody deccody is offline
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Fuse please!
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2012, 09:13 AM
Watts2590 Watts2590 is offline
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its actually the hood switch that is the problem. I tried doing what roverT said and sprayed oil on the hood switch but it didnt seem to help. idk what else to do
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:46 AM
roverT roverT is offline
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The next thing is to get a new hood switch. I think the hood switch is removable so there's no harm in one last ditch effort. It could be just that the contacts are dirty so clean it in water. Clean the contacts well too on the switch and blow the plug from the car clean too. Press the hood switch many times in warm soapy water to rid of any contaminants then let it dry completely before reinstalling and see how that goes. What's the worst that could happen?? You have to get a new one? Great...clean it!
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2012, 11:24 AM
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Do what Rover said....clean the switch (I would use electrical contact cleaner, like De-Oxit or something like that), blow it out with compressed air, then check it for continuity with a small test light. If bad, replace that sucker....
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  #17  
Old 09-05-2012, 09:22 AM
Watts2590 Watts2590 is offline
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yea i tried cleaning it. I guess its time to replace it
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