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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 08-02-2010, 10:40 AM
injunmort injunmort is offline
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it amazes me how little you guys know about cars, bmw's in particular but have no problem speaking like an authority. the car running hot is caused by poor coolant circulation, not moving the heat away to be transferred fast enough, not poor air flow. but you went to school for this and are an engineer as i am. this can be caused by a blocked cooling system, failed waterpump, air in the cooling system or a failure of a number of other components,eg a radiator. as i said in the first post. bleed the system which i am sure most of you cannot do. check your coolant flow and check for leaks. then after you screw that up start throwing expensive parts at the problem piecemeal until you go broke and tired and give the car to someone who knows his ass from his elbow. as for your half assed flow chart of "if it does this at this speed it means" not one of you asked that when the car starts to run hot does he have heat and if so does the temp drop when he turns it on. if it does, does the heater make the faulty fan turn faster increasing airflow over the surface area of the radiator curing the overheating caused by the faulty fan clutch.

Last edited by injunmort; 08-02-2010 at 10:46 AM.
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  #27  
Old 08-02-2010, 11:00 AM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redhead3391 View Post
I have a 1996 318i convertible, it keeps overheating at low speeds but runs fine in normal driving conditions. Where do I start looking in order to fix this problem?
Quote:
Originally Posted by injunmort View Post
it amazes me how little you guys know about cars, bmw's in particular but have no problem speaking like an authority. the car running hot is caused by poor coolant circulation, not moving the heat away to be transferred fast enough, not poor air flow. but you went to school for this and are an engineer as i am. this can be caused by a blocked cooling system, failed waterpump, air in the cooling system or a failure of a number of other components,eg a radiator. as i said in the first post. bleed the system which i am sure most of you cannot do. check your coolant flow and check for leaks. then after you screw that up start throwing expensive parts at the problem piecemeal until you go broke and tired and give the car to someone who knows his ass from his elbow. as for your half assed flow chart of "if it does this at this speed it means" not one of you asked that when the car starts to run hot does he have heat and if so does the temp drop when he turns it on. if it does, does the heater make the faulty fan turn faster increasing airflow over the surface area of the radiator curing the overheating caused by the faulty fan clutch.
Tell you what Sunshine. Disconnect your fan, wait for a good temperature day, then go idle your car. Tell me it won't overheat.

Here's a simple explanation of a car's cooling system.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm

As you will see, especially were you to be an engineer, or were you to do any (not some, any) basic research into the issues of overheating vehicles, a very common problem in cars that are idling or at low speeds is the fan isn't working.




OP, if you test the fan as recommended on page 1, odds are far better than even that your fan clutch needs to be replaced.



Injunmort, you have given good advice on this forum in the past, please don't become an idiot. Swallow your pride and admit to yourself you can be wrong. Don't start waving flase degrees that you don't have around. Lets continue on from here. Starting personal attacks on those of us who have helped many, many people on this forum, proves only one thing. And no, sorry, your mommy isn't very proud of you right now.
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Last edited by jonesin; 08-02-2010 at 11:02 AM.
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  #28  
Old 08-02-2010, 11:17 AM
injunmort injunmort is offline
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as stated in the first post, if the fan is turning it is doing about all it can do at a standstill and idle. i did not say disconect the fan. if the fan is turning while at idle it is a circulation problem. air cooled motorcycle engines dont overheat without airflow in some pretty hot enviroments. this is due to the amount of finning on the cylinders(surface area) that transfer heat away to be dissipated into the air. a radiator operates on the same principle, the fan provides mininmal assistance in this. i will also take my "flase degrees" and leave as the idiocy on this board is too much to comprehend. i do have a good used fan clutch if anybody needs it. it sounds to me like you all do.

Last edited by injunmort; 08-02-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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  #29  
Old 08-02-2010, 11:18 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Since this thread is getting a bit nasty, I don't really want to be a part of it, but I thought I should mention that in addition to a faulty fan clutch, a failed or failing water pump can also cause overheating at slow speeds. The reason is because the impeller can become loose (sometimes partially) and not be pumping at full capacity (although still somewhat). If this happens, the car can sometimes still flow enough coolant to keep the car at normal temp during higher speeds due to the increased airflow. At lower speeds, the reduction of airflow exceeds the defective water pump's flow capacity, and the car begins to overheat. Again, this is just one possibility for low-speed overheating symptoms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by injunmort View Post
as stated in the first post, if the fan is turning it is doing about all it can do at a standstill and idle. if the fan is turning while at idle it is a circulation problem.
Not necessarily. If the fan clutch has failed, the fan will still be rotating during idle, but it will very likely not be rotating at a sufficient RPM due to the clutch no longer being fully engaged. I'm not ruling out a coolant flow issue, but your logic here isn't entirely sound and additional items must be considered.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 08-02-2010 at 11:24 AM.
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  #30  
Old 08-02-2010, 12:32 PM
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wag-zhp wag-zhp is offline
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Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Since this thread is getting a bit nasty, I don't really want to be a part of it, but I thought I should mention that in addition to a faulty fan clutch, a failed or failing water pump can also cause overheating at slow speeds. The reason is because the impeller can become loose (sometimes partially) and not be pumping at full capacity (although still somewhat). If this happens, the car can sometimes still flow enough coolant to keep the car at normal temp during higher speeds due to the increased airflow. At lower speeds, the reduction of airflow exceeds the defective water pump's flow capacity, and the car begins to overheat. Again, this is just one possibility for low-speed overheating symptoms.
Excellent point. Given this scenario, while the vehicle is stationary, increasing the engine (and waterpump) RPM should promote additional coolant flow through the block, head, and rest of the cooling system. This, combined with the increased air flow through the radiator, is what brings the coolant temp back into the acceptable range. However, even given this scenario, I would still check the aux fan and the fan clutch before pulling the water pump out for inspection.
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  #31  
Old 08-02-2010, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by injunmort View Post
as stated in the first post, if the fan is turning it is doing about all it can do at a standstill and idle. i did not say disconect the fan. if the fan is turning while at idle it is a circulation problem. air cooled motorcycle engines dont overheat without airflow in some pretty hot enviroments. this is due to the amount of finning on the cylinders(surface area) that transfer heat away to be dissipated into the air. a radiator operates on the same principle, the fan provides mininmal assistance in this.
Do you understand what the fan clutch does? Even a fan clutch that provides nearly no viscous coupling between the fan and the water pump will allow the fan to rotate. Just because the fan is rotating, that doesn't mean it's rotating fast enough to provide adequate air flow to allow the radiator to perform the required heat exchange function to prevent the coolant and engine from over heating. If the primary fan (attached to the water pump) and the aux fan (electric fan mounted in front of the radiator) provide such minimal assistance in air flow why do you suppose the engineers at BMW decided to design them into the finished product? The fans ARE the primary provider of air movement through the radiator when the car is stationary or moving at low speed. What kind of engineer are you? (I certainly hope you are not in fluid dynamics or thermal engineering.)
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  #32  
Old 08-03-2010, 03:45 PM
diqiu diqiu is offline
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96 model 318i has an automatic cooling fan(no clutch), whenever the temperature reach higher than normal, the relay will turn the fan on, down to normal, it turns off. Check the fan fuse first to see if it's ok. Sometime the fan connector is too dirty or disconnected. The connector is along the radiator edge, half way down, on the driver's side, it plugs in from low to up the socket. You can also test the fan from the plug with the battery jumper.

Last edited by diqiu; 08-03-2010 at 06:06 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-27-2012, 04:21 PM
kevs528i kevs528i is offline
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i have 528i that only heats up when driving slow or at constant speed but when i hit gas to go faster it goes down any help would b app
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  #34  
Old 07-27-2012, 04:24 PM
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Your thermostat is probably stuck open.
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  #35  
Old 07-27-2012, 04:27 PM
custm42435 custm42435 is offline
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Originally Posted by e36mike View Post
not true.

when the car is hot roll up a newspaper and stick it in the fan. if you can stop it then you probably got a problem with fan clutch/fan. usually you'll have a overheating mostly when stopped or going very slow like in traffic. we just did my friends on his m3, with a newpaper we could stop his fan like nothing, we come over to my car and the fan would nearly eat the newspaper.


if you overheat at low speeds it could be your fan clutch/fan or your system needs to be properly flushed and filled.
Lol i wonder how many people are going to go outside now with a rolled up newspaper and stick it in their fan and see if they can stop it Speaking of which... Im about to go look for my newspaper now..

The idea though is completely valid as the fans have a clutch, clutches wear out and slip. just because its turning doesnt mean it isnt slipping and should be turning with more force than what your seeing. I remember reading somewhere that these clutches in the fans DO fail and eventually the fan gets replaced.
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Last edited by custm42435; 07-27-2012 at 04:32 PM.
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  #36  
Old 07-27-2012, 05:30 PM
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^+1, and replace the fan itself when you replace the clutch. They are genuine BMW plastic, and last about as well as all the rest of the plastic in our cars, 'cept when it starts shedding blades it tends to ruin hoses and radiators. A ~$20 fan is a lot cheaper than a radiator.
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  #37  
Old 07-27-2012, 06:01 PM
custm42435 custm42435 is offline
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Hmm... wonder if the same million dollar salaried genius Engineer that designed the fans also designed the water pump..
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  #38  
Old 07-27-2012, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by custm42435 View Post
Hmm... wonder if the same million dollar salaried genius Engineer that designed the fans also designed the water pump..
More bad engineering is done by the accounting department than it is by the engineering department. A metal impeller might have added $5 to the cost of the car and as part of the design release review a bean counter probably said "why does that impeller have to be metal?" That'a going to cost us a million dollars in margin. "If you make that out of plastic will it last to the end of the warranty period?" Voila - plastic impeller.
My apologies in advance to Bean Counters if this hits a nerve.
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Last edited by dc_wright; 07-27-2012 at 07:54 PM.
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  #39  
Old 07-27-2012, 08:32 PM
custm42435 custm42435 is offline
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Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
More bad engineering is done by the accounting department than it is by the engineering department. A metal impeller might have added $5 to the cost of the car and as part of the design release review a bean counter probably said "why does that impeller have to be metal?" That'a going to cost us a million dollars in margin. "If you make that out of plastic will it last to the end of the warranty period?" Voila - plastic impeller.
My apologies in advance to Bean Counters if this hits a nerve.
Yeah now THAT sounds just like how earlier models of e36's have metal valve covers yet later models like mine have plastic valve covers lol
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  #40  
Old 07-30-2012, 12:48 PM
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There is a small unicorn in your engine jumping around poking holes in things and sh!tting in filters. That will be $6000.
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