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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-25-2012, 09:24 PM
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Some Cobb experience

I've been running Cobb AccessPORT on my 535i Sport for a couple of weeks. Installed Stage 1 Sport Stock Throttle v401 about a week ago, and love it. It makes the car feel smooth as silk ... smooth acceleration and shifting. Even my wife loves it ... although she always is a bit nervous that I'm going to screw up our bimmer.

Today installed Stage 1 Aggressive Stock Throttle v401, and was taken aback by the extra power. Drove around for a while and decided to put it back to Stage 1 Sport, because it felt more "daily drivable", while Agressive didn't seem quite as smooth. Of course, when I'm in the mood I'll change it back to Aggressive.

Running 93 octane here, so even Drive and Sport modes kick butt ... while Agressive kicks a$$.

For the heck of it, I made some quick runs while monitoring the boost. They were run in regular automatic Drive, and all I did was hit the throttle to "passing gear" (as we used to call it). RPM went to about 6k each time. Boost for Stage 1 Drive maxed at 14.4 psi, while the Aggressive maxed an 17.1 psi. (That's another reason I went back to Sport. I felt that there's no need to work the turbo's too hard on a day-to-day basis ... just my feeling).
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:01 AM
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Hey what's up Burnie. Im now running stg1 aggressive map also but I am using the linear throttle map. The stock throttle map lets you push the pedal down less to get more power. I like the linear better since it feels smoother when I press down the pedal and when I really press down the car goes into take off mode. The sport mode was fun but I'm going to keep mine in aggressive mode. If you are worried about the boost, which ive see other cars running 16-17 psi max, you can datalog a couple of runs and send them to Cobb or post them on their forums for examination.
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  #3  
Old 07-26-2012, 08:53 AM
mermar mermar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnie35 View Post
I've been running Cobb AccessPORT on my 535i Sport for a couple of weeks. Installed Stage 1 Sport Stock Throttle v401 about a week ago, and love it. It makes the car feel smooth as silk ... smooth acceleration and shifting. Even my wife loves it ... although she always is a bit nervous that I'm going to screw up our bimmer.

Today installed Stage 1 Aggressive Stock Throttle v401, and was taken aback by the extra power. Drove around for a while and decided to put it back to Stage 1 Sport, because it felt more "daily drivable", while Agressive didn't seem quite as smooth. Of course, when I'm in the mood I'll change it back to Aggressive.

Running 93 octane here, so even Drive and Sport modes kick butt ... while Agressive kicks a$$.

For the heck of it, I made some quick runs while monitoring the boost. They were run in regular automatic Drive, and all I did was hit the throttle to "passing gear" (as we used to call it). RPM went to about 6k each time. Boost for Stage 1 Drive maxed at 14.4 psi, while the Aggressive maxed an 17.1 psi. (That's another reason I went back to Sport. I felt that there's no need to work the turbo's too hard on a day-to-day basis ... just my feeling).
Thanks for the great write-up. I am exactly like you - want a healthy bump - but not at the expense of over stressing the sweet in-line 6 we have. Im planning to order my cobb in a few weeks. It has been so hot here I thought it would be better with cooler ambient temps while I install and 'learn' my new Cobb tune. Also, I think Cobb was on the verge of going to a new version for the N54 - as it had been in beta for a while. I too use 93 octane. You mention it is very smooth - is it also noticeably quicker in sport setting?
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  #4  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mermar View Post
You mention it is very smooth - is it also noticeably quicker in sport setting?
Yes, a lot quicker and smoother than the factory settings. I used the Drive setting for a little bit, but it didn't do much for me.
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  #5  
Old 07-26-2012, 07:30 PM
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Glad to hear that you're happy with the COBB AP as it definitely gives the car the extra power and kick it deserves! The v4.01 and v4.02 Off-The-Shelf maps for BMW N54 Cobb AccessPORTs have been promoted to General Release. The v4.01 and v4.02 maps now supersede v3.01 maps, which have been archived. COBB Tuning recommends upgrading to the latest version of the maps for optimal performance. These maps can be downloaded from the BMW AccessPORT Off-The-Shelf Map Database. For instructions on downloading maps, transferring them to the AccessPORT and flashing them to the BMW ECU, please see the Step-by-Step Map Download and Install Tutorial.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:22 PM
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When looking at the various maps, they list requirements for the various stages.

What do these abbreviations mean in that chart? IC, DP

For "Intake", I'm assuming they are referring to a dual cone intake?
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  #7  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModBargains.com View Post
Glad to hear that you're happy with the COBB AP as it definitely gives the car the extra power and kick it deserves! The v4.01 and v4.02 Off-The-Shelf maps for BMW N54 Cobb AccessPORTs have been promoted to General Release. The v4.01 and v4.02 maps now supersede v3.01 maps, which have been archived. COBB Tuning recommends upgrading to the latest version of the maps for optimal performance. These maps can be downloaded from the BMW AccessPORT Off-The-Shelf Map Database. For instructions on downloading maps, transferring them to the AccessPORT and flashing them to the BMW ECU, please see the Step-by-Step Map Download and Install Tutorial.
I assume the production version 401 is the same as the beta 401 ... am I correct? Or do we need to download a copy of the General Relase version. If they are different, normally they would have a different number.
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  #8  
Old 07-26-2012, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post
When looking at the various maps, they list requirements for the various stages.

What do these abbreviations mean in that chart? IC, DP

For "Intake", I'm assuming they are referring to a dual cone intake?
What's up uwhusky. The abbrev IC = intercooler, DP = downpipes, CBE = cat back exhaust.
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  #9  
Old 07-27-2012, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post

For "Intake", I'm assuming they are referring to a dual cone intake?
It's pretty much any after market intake. The stock intake is a limiting factor when tuning the engine so any aftermarket one will suffice.
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  #10  
Old 07-27-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by booyaazaa View Post
What's up uwhusky. The abbrev IC = intercooler, DP = downpipes, CBE = cat back exhaust.
Thanks for clarifying. I have none of those and have no plans of installing any of them.
I am seriously thinking of installing the Burger Motorsports dual cone intake. At only $95 and a fairly easy install (or so I've heard) sounds like a relative "no brainer".
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post
When looking at the various maps, they list requirements for the various stages.

What do these abbreviations mean in that chart? IC, DP

For "Intake", I'm assuming they are referring to a dual cone intake?
Quote:
Originally Posted by booyaazaa View Post
What's up uwhusky. The abbrev IC = intercooler, DP = downpipes, CBE = cat back exhaust.
That is absolutely correct

Quote:
Originally Posted by burnie35 View Post
I assume the production version 401 is the same as the beta 401 ... am I correct? Or do we need to download a copy of the General Relase version. If they are different, normally they would have a different number.
You may want to re-download and re-flash your car with the general release v401/v402 maps.
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2012, 10:25 AM
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Just out of relative curiosity, what are the rough estimates on cost for each of these mods?

Intercooler?

Downpipe?

Catback exhaust?
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post
Just out of relative curiosity, what are the rough estimates on cost for each of these mods?

Intercooler?

Downpipe?

Catback exhaust?
Uwhusky, you have all the items installed, however they are stock BMW parts that are somewhat restrictive. In order to run Maps besides stage 1 you would need to upgrade certain components to allow the tune to work its magic of giving you more POWER. For instance stage 1+ fmic(front mounted inter cooler) aggressive, your car needs 93 octane and a upgraded inter cooler to cool a larger volume of air. The pricing for most of the items above is ~$800 to $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. If you want more power then the stage 1 map you need to do some upgrading. The DCI you are looking at will help your car breathe easier and is a step in the right direction. I'm going to look at a drop in intake though for my car.
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Old 08-02-2012, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModBargains.com View Post
Glad to hear that you're happy with the COBB AP as it definitely gives the car the extra power and kick it deserves! The v4.01 and v4.02 Off-The-Shelf maps for BMW N54 Cobb AccessPORTs have been promoted to General Release. The v4.01 and v4.02 maps now supersede v3.01 maps, which have been archived. COBB Tuning recommends upgrading to the latest version of the maps for optimal performance. These maps can be downloaded from the BMW AccessPORT Off-The-Shelf Map Database. For instructions on downloading maps, transferring them to the AccessPORT and flashing them to the BMW ECU, please see the Step-by-Step Map Download and Install Tutorial.
So if I order a Cobb AP from you next week does it arrive with b4.01 pre-installed or do I install the software on the AP when I receive it?
Thanks
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:40 PM
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So if I order a Cobb AP from you next week does it arrive with b4.01 pre-installed or do I install the software on the AP when I receive it?
Thanks
If it doesn't it is very easy to up data the AP. Just install the AP manager program it comes with or download it from cobb tuning. Once installed you connect the AP to the pc with the program open, update the AP, plug the AP into the car to determine ecu and then replug the AP and download the new maps based on your ecu. There are lots of youtube videos on how to update. It is definitely worth getting an a whole lot of fun once installed.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:35 AM
hp jnkey hp jnkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ModBargains.com View Post
Glad to hear that you're happy with the COBB AP as it definitely gives the car the extra power and kick it deserves! The v4.01 and v4.02 Off-The-Shelf maps for BMW N54 Cobb AccessPORTs have been promoted to General Release. The v4.01 and v4.02 maps now supersede v3.01 maps, which have been archived. COBB Tuning recommends upgrading to the latest version of the maps for optimal performance. These maps can be downloaded from the BMW AccessPORT Off-The-Shelf Map Database. For instructions on downloading maps, transferring them to the AccessPORT and flashing them to the BMW ECU, please see the Step-by-Step Map Download and Install Tutorial.
Mod
Once Cobb is installed, how long does it take to change maps that are loaded into the Access Port?
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hp jnkey View Post
Mod
Once Cobb is installed, how long does it take to change maps that are loaded into the Access Port?
If you're installing a map to your stock BMW, it takes about 20-25 minutes the first time. This is because it first takes your stock map from the car and downloads it to your AP, then it installs the map you chose from the AP to your car.

If you're installing a new map over an old map (like going from Sport Map to Aggressive or Stock throttle to linear throttle) it only takes about 5-10 minutes because it doesn't need to download the map from your car at that point.
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Old 08-04-2012, 11:30 AM
hp jnkey hp jnkey is offline
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Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post
If you're installing a map to your stock BMW, it takes about 20-25 minutes the first time. This is because it first takes your stock map from the car and downloads it to your AP, then it installs the map you chose from the AP to your car.

If you're installing a new map over an old map (like going from Sport Map to Aggressive or Stock throttle to linear throttle) it only takes about 5-10 minutes because it doesn't need to download the map from your car at that point.
Ok, thanks for that.
I thought it would only take a minute or so.
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Old 08-04-2012, 12:24 PM
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Ok, thanks for that.
I thought it would only take a minute or so.
It varies based on your cars battery strength. When i change maps its only a few minutes. But like what husky said to new install/uninstall it takes a little bit of time.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwhusky View Post
Just out of relative curiosity, what are the rough estimates on cost for each of these mods?

Intercooler?

Downpipe?

Catback exhaust?
There are not many makers for 5 series parts so your selection is limited. Even though the 3 series has the same engine, all 3 of the above parts are different.

CP-E is the only company I know of that has a confirmed fit in a 5 series for an Intercooler. It's about $800 and expect $400 for the install. You WILL need their oil cooler or have a shop good enough that can fabricate a bracket to move the OEM oil cooler.

AR Design is, again, the only company I know of with a verified fit for a 5 series. You can expect to pay about $1000 for catless, or $1300 for race catted DP's. Install on these things are a huge pain. Expect a 5 hour install at about $500 or so. You also need to check out your local emissions policies to figure out which is the best direction for you to go. Catless gives you a little more power but its stinky. If you have a sniffer emissions policy you'll probably fail it. Our cars have two sets of cats as well. If you go catless, you'll need to get the O2 simulators so you don't have a contant CE light.

Catback exhaust - there are a couple of options out there, most above $1000. I got a magnaflow I am happy with. $800 and the install was cheap $150. I had them remove my secondary cats (so I am running one set of race cats) but the O2 sensor is right after the race cat, so removing the secondary cats will not cause you an issue with the computer, but it could cause issues with emissions.
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:18 PM
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There are not many makers for 5 series parts so your selection is limited. Even though the 3 series has the same engine, all 3 of the above parts are different.

CP-E is the only company I know of that has a confirmed fit in a 5 series for an Intercooler. It's about $800 and expect $400 for the install. You WILL need their oil cooler or have a shop good enough that can fabricate a bracket to move the OEM oil cooler.

AR Design is, again, the only company I know of with a verified fit for a 5 series. You can expect to pay about $1000 for catless, or $1300 for race catted DP's. Install on these things are a huge pain. Expect a 5 hour install at about $500 or so. You also need to check out your local emissions policies to figure out which is the best direction for you to go. Catless gives you a little more power but its stinky. If you have a sniffer emissions policy you'll probably fail it. Our cars have two sets of cats as well. If you go catless, you'll need to get the O2 simulators so you don't have a contant CE light.

Catback exhaust - there are a couple of options out there, most above $1000. I got a magnaflow I am happy with. $800 and the install was cheap $150. I had them remove my secondary cats (so I am running one set of race cats) but the O2 sensor is right after the race cat, so removing the secondary cats will not cause you an issue with the computer, but it could cause issues with emissions.
Great info! Thanks for posting that. I'm going to leave all these items stock on my car. It's too much money and I don't believe the performance gains to be worth the price.

I did upgrade my fuel to 96 octane (previous post). The Stage 1 Aggressive map is nice but really not a noticable improvement over the Stage 1 Sport map, which is what I'll be re-mapping to when this tank of gas is done.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ModBargains.com View Post
Glad to hear that you're happy with the COBB AP as it definitely gives the car the extra power and kick it deserves!
I've seen charts on performance gains for just adding the Cobb AP alone. I have not seen data on how much more power and torque can be gained from adding intake and or exhaust in addition. Anyone done this stepwise?

I guess same for JB4? Anyone added the JB4 first and then further tuned? Is it diminishing returns or not?
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:53 AM
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All the supporting mods do is allow you to go more aggressive with the tune. Believe me, there is a huge gain between stag 1 and stage 2 plus. Around 40hp. It all depends on how far you want to take your car though.

The intake should be used with any tune. Adding an exhaust did little for me, performance wise, besides making it sound better. It did, however, remove the back pressure from the system (turbos do NOT like back pressure) and make me about 40 lbs lighter (about a 4hp gain in weight reduction).

The high you go with any tune the more in diminishing returns you will get unless you are making serious engine modifications (bigger turbo, single turbo, engine swap, etc). When you consider the price of those items though, the amount of HP we get, per $$ from a tune is outrageously cheap!
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:49 PM
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All the supporting mods do is allow you to go more aggressive with the tune. Believe me, there is a huge gain between stag 1 and stage 2 plus. Around 40hp. It all depends on how far you want to take your car though.

The intake should be used with any tune. Adding an exhaust did little for me, performance wise, besides making it sound better. It did, however, remove the back pressure from the system (turbos do NOT like back pressure) and make me about 40 lbs lighter (about a 4hp gain in weight reduction).

The high you go with any tune the more in diminishing returns you will get unless you are making serious engine modifications (bigger turbo, single turbo, engine swap, etc). When you consider the price of those items though, the amount of HP we get, per $$ from a tune is outrageously cheap!
I told myself i was going to only do a cobb ap and nothing else. But I'm finding myself looking at the bms dci and a remus exhaust. I know many have argued this point with stock box w/bms dropin vs bms dci. The only thing is having to uninstall when i take it in for servicing and vice versa. That is what has me on the fence still from pullin the trigger. Damn these cars get expensive.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mermar View Post
So if I order a Cobb AP from you next week does it arrive with b4.01 pre-installed or do I install the software on the AP when I receive it?
Thanks
It may come with an older firmware version as our stocking order was delivered prior to the offical v401 and v402 maps were officially released. However, like Booyaazaa said, updating the COBB is relatively simple. You can download the Cobb AP manager from Cobb's website. Once installed, you connect the AP to your pc/mac with the program open, click update, and you can then plug the Cobb AP into the car to determine ecu and then replug the AP and download the new maps based on your ecu.

Video Tutorials
Simple Installation
Update Firmware
Change Maps
Performance
Data Logging
Live Data
Trouble Codes
Uninstall
AccessPORT Manager

Quote:
Originally Posted by hp jnkey View Post
Mod
Once Cobb is installed, how long does it take to change maps that are loaded into the Access Port?
It takes roughly 15 minutes from my experience to switch maps.
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Last edited by ModBargains.com; 08-06-2012 at 04:48 PM.
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