Coolant Level Light On

My pleasure sir. Glad you got her running so good

Oh an check engine light is off.. I had only maf sensor code then I got the check light to go out using the stomp procedure

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Originally Posted by phatness

Oh an check engine light is off.. I had only maf sensor code then I got the check light to go out using the stomp procedure Attachment 335614

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Sounds like you have it all sorted out. I would drive it a few days and do the stomp test again to see if any codes return. If not, then you can feel confident that you have made all of the necessary repairs.

Will do its going for a full synthetic oil change and coolant system flush tomorrow then on a 35 mile trip to work ill feel pretty confident if it makes it back

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Oh question about the gas pedal mine is pretty stiff are BMW's that way or should I look into that? Also my coolant level indicator light is still on an my floating device is in the bottle and coolant level is full. Any ideas?
Thanks

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Originally Posted by phatness

Oh question about the gas pedal mine is pretty stiff are BMW's that way or should I look into that? Also my coolant level indicator light is still on an my floating device is in the bottle and coolant level is full. Any ideas?
Thanks

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I can't compare stiffness of the pedal without being able to feel it. You may want to lube the throttle calble a little. Also, clean the throttle body if you haven't already.

Check the wires going to the coolant level sensor. Mine were frayed and it was givng me a false coolant low level warning.

Thanks alot for everything.
I have been driving the car for a couple days and no problems so far besides my temp rising to 60% no higher and goes down to about 47-48% at times when driving it rises to 60% when stoped in a drive thru ect.. so I just have to find the fan clutch removal tools and replace it.
Oh and do you know how to remove the side mirror cover? Plastic cover on back of mirror. I kept braking it at the salvage yard


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Originally Posted by phatness

Thanks alot for everything.
I have been driving the car for a couple days and no problems so far besides my temp rising to 60% no higher and goes down to about 47-48% at times when driving it rises to 60% when stoped in a drive thru ect.. so I just have to find the fan clutch removal tools and replace it.
Oh and do you know how to remove the side mirror cover? Plastic cover on back of mirror. I kept braking it at the salvage yard


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I have never removed the mirror cover so I can't help there. I will tell you that you are rolling the dice by driving the car with the coolant temp going above half way on the gauge. These motors are very sensitive to heating problems. I strongly encourage you to get a new fan clutch on there ASAP.

Ok I put her to rest after the oil change. I want to get a fan clutch from the bone yard but I don't know how to tell if they are good or not, do you? Oh and do you know how to remove the clutch without the tool?

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Originally Posted by phatness

Ok I put her to rest after the oil change. I want to get a fan clutch from the bone yard but I don't know how to tell if they are good or not, do you? Oh and do you know how to remove the clutch without the tool?

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When they are new and cold, they turn with some resistance such as if filled with molasses. As they get older, the spin more freely when cold and with almost no resistance when hot.

You can buy a 32mm combination wrench from somewhere or a thin 32mm from a bicycle shop. In the place of the hold down tool, you can use a stout screw driver or other thick piece of steel similar to it and put it in the bolts holding the water pump pulley on. Be forewarned though, you may monkey up the heads of the bolts, so loosen them prior to proceeding with trying to remove the fan clutch. As I'm sure you know, the threads on the 32mm bolt are reversed, so turn it clockwise to loosen it. You may need to hit it hard with a hammer. You can also try spraying some PB Blaster or some similar spray and let it soak overnight.

I will tell you that it is best to just buy the proper tools.

Good luck.

I would like to buy the proper tools but only place I can find the is on fleabay and there in Hong Kong. Last time I ordered from there it took months to receive. Do you know where else I could order them?

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Go to www.toolss.com. Yes, I meant to put in 2 "s". Select BMW. Then select BMW Tools from the left menu. Then select BMW engines. It is the first item that comes up. The combination of the two wrenches cost $39.95. This is where I ordered mine from and they came in just a few days.

BTW, I would have just posted a link to the actual tools, but it would not work form some reason.

Hey Steve how are you? I was wondering if you knew what range ment on the dash. It says " range 114m"

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Originally Posted by phatness

Hey Steve how are you? I was wondering if you knew what range ment on the dash. It says " range 114m"

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That is an approximation on how far you can drive on the gas that remains in the tank at that time.

Notice that I said "approximation". It is not exact. In other words, don't push it or you may run out of fuel.

Thanks for the reply.
I thought that's what it was but I wasn't positive and it was bugging me so I googled it and came up empty. Then as I was driving I noticed the numbers changing and you have helped me out bigtime before and again in this instance thanks a million. It was funny because I just found out that button was there lol. Again. Thanks a million

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Originally Posted by phatness

Thanks for the reply.
I thought that's what it was but I wasn't positive and it was bugging me so I googled it and came up empty. Then as I was driving I noticed the numbers changing and you have helped me out bigtime before and again in this instance thanks a million. It was funny because I just found out that button was there lol. Again. Thanks a million

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My pleasure sir. Might I suggest you try to round up an owner's manual for your car? It is a treasure trove of information about your beloved E34.

Well since I have you here lol I had another question, about the ABS if you have any info on that thanks in advance. Ok I know I needed to change my brakes and rotors (front and rear) but I thought it would be the usual pads and rotor replacement as I have done before. So I was driving one day and I applied the brake but I hit a bump and my pedal started like grinding, oh snap I have ABS brakes!
My question is there any thing I need to do different when replacing the pads and rotors due to it has ABS? Oh I never worked with ABS fyi

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Originally Posted by phatness

Well since I have you here lol I had another question, about the ABS if you have any info on that thanks in advance. Ok I know I needed to change my brakes and rotors (front and rear) but I thought it would be the usual pads and rotor replacement as I have done before. So I was driving one day and I applied the brake but I hit a bump and my pedal started like grinding, oh snap I have ABS brakes!
My question is there any thing I need to do different when replacing the pads and rotors due to it has ABS? Oh I never worked with ABS fyi

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Not that I'm aware of. It sounds like a good question for the forum .... on a NEW thread

Heh...

About that sensor:
Google Image Result for http://www.terwilliger.org/bmw/images/cool_sensor_loc2.jpg

Um sorry I thought I was posting to the forum. I was wondering why you were the only one to reply to me.

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Originally Posted by phatness

Um sorry I thought I was posting to the forum. I was wondering why you were the only one to reply to me.

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No worries.

It's just that continuing on topics that are not the same as the original post is called thread jacking and it does sometimes prevent those from searching to find the information they are looking for.

I like to help when it is a topic I am familiar with. Others here have immense amounts of knowledge that I don't. I tend to respond to the simpler topics.

Be sure to bleed the cooling system by removing the plastic screw on top of the rad. with the rad. cap off. If air is entrapped at the water pump, the water pump can/will cavitate (pumping only air) and provide 0 coolant to cycle through the system. Gotta hat and t-shirt on this one.

Good luck,
KevinGB

Coolant level light on but coolant is fine is the sensor on the side of the radiator? Do I have to reset anything when I change it?

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The sensor connects to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. The wires to the sensor may be compromised as seen here:



You can splice the wires and cover with heat shrink and they will be fine and the sensor will function properly.

If the wires are okay, then the sensor has failed. It is not terribly expensive. You will have to drain some coolant to replace it. This of course will necessitate a bleeding of the system.

i dont think my 1988 E34 has this coolant level sensor ... i dont even have such a light on the dashboard ...
aw well .. im gonna have to use my other sensor to detect low coolant level ( my eyes )