Z3 Soft Top window replacement

Has anyone ever replaced the zip in rear window in their Z3 soft top?, I have found a company called emiata.com who advertise zipper rear windows, anyone bought one from these people. Any advise would help. A local upholstery company quoted me $ 550.00 to take the top off and sew a new window in, I can purchase a complete new top for
$ 400.00, but I am concerned that once I take the top off there will be other items that I don't have that I need to replace.

Search the forum for "emiata" there have been several threads about people buying them, etc. Personally, I would suggest you use a new OE window, unless you have to have the tinted plastic that is available through Emiata.

Bought OEM window for about $165 delivered - Bav Autosport. Some folks said the
E-maita window gasket did not fit as well while others thought it worked fine.

I had no problem zipping in the OEM unit. Past posts have said the zipper pull that came in the kit would not mesh the teeth. Either they fixed the problem, or I got lucky. I did the job solo in about 45 minutes. Not done yet thought. I have to put in the clips and I'm pretty sure that needs 2 people. One to keep the clip pressed from the outside while the other person bends the points in the receiver on the inside.
Also need to tuck/glue the trim.

Question: What type of glue have you folks used. I've seen references to contact cement and RTV. I'm leaning towards RTV for the flexibility.

Any input would be appreciated.

I thought the OE windows came with some sort of double-sided strip already attached. If not, Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive will work very well. It's available pretty much anywhere. Use sparingly to avoid it squishing out.

There is a double sided tape, but installation instructions say to use a contact cement prior to tucking top in under gasket.. I assume it just helps fight the separation when the top goes up and down.

Here's a copy of the installation instructions.

http://www.rfdm.com/tis/54_31_013.pdf

Originally Posted by Scottymac

There is a double sided tape, but installation instructions say to use a contact cement prior to tucking top in under gasket.. I assume it just helps fight the separation when the top goes up and down.

The sealant holds down the canvas around the window and probably helps prevent any leaks through the zipper. The TIS mentions sealant tape, but no contact cement.

Originally Posted by rjcoston

Here's a copy of the installation instructions.

http://www.rfdm.com/tis/54_31_013.pdf

If the process is as easy as the instructions make it sound, I would probably replace the thing yearly and stop messing around with window blankets and polishing. I have a feeling it's a bit more tricky, though.

Originally Posted by Vinci

The sealant holds down the canvas around the window and probably helps prevent any leaks through the zipper. The TIS mentions sealant tape, but no contact cement.


If the process is as easy as the instructions make it sound, I would probably replace the thing yearly and stop messing around with window blankets and polishing. I have a feeling it's a bit more tricky, though.

I agree. Looks to be a bit of a pain in the neck. I'd like to hear from someone who has performed a DIY replacement.

Here's some better instructions that were originally posted on Roadfly years ago. It's generally not too hard of a job if you can get the zipper started. As Scottymac mentioned there have been posts indicating that the zipper pulls on some kits were too big and would not engage the teeth properly.

http://www.waycoolinc.com/z3/07/1013...aceWindow.html

My black trim is separating from the corner. Before I go glue this thing, should I glue it to the window or the top? I don't want to glue it to the wrong part and then have to separate it down the road when I change the rear window.

In the instructions above, they call the part separating on mine the PVC profile piping.

If you were to re-glue it, it would be to the window. However, you aren't terribly likely to be successful with it. It's a terrible spot to glue anything and I haven't found anything that holds more than a couple days.

I have tried black sealant/adhesive with little success. I finally used pliobond which bonds fabric and plastic together. My trim piece is off now and I am going to try the small silicone vacuum hose as a replacement for the trim.

Good luck,
Mike

I used flowable silicone on mine a couple of years ago and it has held. Thinner than typical RTV, I think it saturated the fabric under the surround. Permatex 81730. Your mileage may vary. It's easy to use though, so there's little harm in trying. Curl back the trim, squirt it in there. Top should be closed and latched while you do it since that's the stressed position.

Permatex 81730

Although my window zipped in pretty easily at first, I found out the zipper didn't fully bind when tucking in the canvas.
Three tries later, I feel I can do the job pretty quickly - solo.
After crimping the zipper pull (as others have noted), begin to zip window in. Then use one of the suppled clips to keep the leading edge of the zipper from undoing (that was try 2). As the window is basically out at this point, you you have access to both sides of the top from the outside of the car and can clamp the clip together with needle nose vise grips. This makes it easy to bend back the prongs for a nice tight fit. Once the zipper is pulled all the way around, you will need 2 people to put the last clip in. As I destroyed that clip on my multiple attempts, I just left the zipper pull in and taped it down with black duct tape. You can't tell it's there. I may eventually just sew that part of the zipper shut.

Seems to be holding up well without any glue to tuck in the canvas thus far. The window already has some hairline scratches on it. I can'ty believe how soft that plastic is.

It was heartbreaking to see scratches on my window a week after I replaced the whole top. It's just the way those windows are.

Hey all, new to here after recently purchasing 98 Z3 and finding site. Just wanted to say that the guy I bought car off had the emiata.com replacement window sitting in the trunk for a year, cause he was "scared" to install it. Myself and a friend installed same in about 15 minutes, the only problem being the zipper ends had to be sewn. As well, I would not use the contact cement they enclose with the package, it appears to be junk. Fit was excellent and hard to believe the two of us had it finished inside a half hour. Finished glueing with syringe and clear glue the next day. I will be ordering another the next time I am stateside instead of the $600 the dealership wants.

Got my OEM replacement with Zipper from Erick at KO performance, for 130.00. Had BMW rplace the window for 270.00. Did not want to deal with it. Depending on the shape of your top you can rip the zipper....and then it is a whole new top.

Just did the OEM.. One suggestion that I would add. Remember you are replacing the window, no need to keep the old one! Cutting out the old clear plastic will allow you to get to the zipper clips and the zipper from the outside for the removal.. A whole lot easier than from the inside!

Hello Everyone

I'm an owner of a 1999 M Roadster with a rear window issue. Does anyone know where I can buy the black pcv striping that goes between the fabric and the plastic window? My window is in fine shape but the black bead is cracking and falling apart and doesn't look good. And help would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

I don't think you can get it independently from the window.. The window comes with it already bonded to the clear plastic..