DIY: 335d Oil Change

Most of you still receive regular dealer service visits and free maintenance, but since I'm currently located in the UK, I have to pay for my services. That said, I called the local BMW stealership today and inquired as to the cost of an oil change (and nothing else). My car only has 5000 miles on it, so I figured it was time to get the original oil out. The SA called me back and quoted me £295 (about $456!), so I decided to do the work myself.

I acquired 8 liters of Castrol Edge 5W-30 (LL04 approved) and a filter from the local spares house for about £100 ($160), or about a third of the cost of the dealer's quote.

Below is a quick DIY explanation. Please note that is is posted only for informative purposes and it is not meant to be used as a guide should you decide to do this work yourself. I think you should always take your car to the dealer. I'm not responsible if something bad happens.

First, remove the oil filler cap and set it aside. This will allow air to fill the space vacated by the oil and will help prevent it from splashing everywhere as it's drained.


I always do the filter next, just in case I have an issue with the drain plug. Using an appropriate socket (32mm or 1-1/4"), unscrew the filter housing on the driver's side (US market) of the engine compartment. Lift the top of the housing off, being careful not to let the cartridge fall into the engine bay. It will drip dirty oil, so have a rag handy.


Remove the cartridge....


...and install the new one. There's also a rubber o-ring at the base of the threads that should be replaced. Oil the new o-ring to prevent binding upon installation.


Install the new cartridge and torque the housing to 18 ft-lbs. I've heard some people say you should oil the filter to allow quicker lubrication of the engine after the oil change, but I couldn't find a way to do this without getting oil everywhere.


Now safely raise and support the car so you can get underneath. Look for the little trapezoidal panel under the engine compartment. Rotate the half-circle piece at the aft end and swing the little door open, then set it aside.



You will now see a 17mm bolt.


Remove the bolt and drain the oil.


Replace the crush washer and reinstall the bolt, torquing it to 18 lb.-ft.


Reinstall the plastic cover. Safely lower the car.

Fill engine with 7.5 liters of approved oil, then install the filler cap.



Start the engine and check for leaks. Shut the engine off and check the oil level. If necessary, add oil until it reaches the full mark.

See the service reminder reset procedure here:

Thanks exactly what i was looking for...stealerhships in NC want $410 and $350 respectively for oil service plus def flush...some members have posted def flush is not required, only refilll.

Your comments on def?

Some questions please. I have never changed oil on a vehicle.

Do you have to clean the filter housing?
Does the oil filter just slide on or do you have screw it in or snap in?
Do you think there will be any issues if i use ramps and drail oil, i do not have a lift?

Roger,

You do not have to clean the filter housing. There will be a very thin film of residual oil, but that's perfectly fine.

The oil filter cartridge slides over a plastic shaft that's connected to the cap you remove. It helps keep the cartridge aligned. You'll see what I mean in the picture above with the blue funnel.

Using ramps is about the easiest way to do it. Make sure you follow the torque specs on the drain plug so you don't strip the pan!

I've also read the DEF flush is no longer required. I just topped mine up with fresh fluid.

How do you check oil level? Where is the full mark? Does it matter if i add all 8 quarts all at once? Thanks

Have changed the oil on mine a few times.... it could not get much easier.
I use ramps, and as long as they have a gradual incline, it makes the job very easy.
Mine took 7.5 quarts including replacing the oil filter so make sure you check the level if you pour 8 quarts in. The dipstick has a yellow tip (very visible) and there are graduated marks on it to indicate your fill level. Takes me 1/2 hour from on ramps to off ramps, but sometimes I stay under the car longer just to marvel at my mobile man-cave.

OP: Holy mackerel, 8 quarts of premium synthetic oil and a filter can be bought for about $75 in the US, even less if you get your BMWCCA discount at some dealers.

Yeah...everything is expensive in the UK.

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

Roger,

You do not have to clean the filter housing. There will be a very thin film of residual oil, but that's perfectly fine.

The oil filter cartridge slides over a plastic shaft that's connected to the cap you remove. It helps keep the cartridge aligned. You'll see what I mean in the picture above with the blue funnel.

Using ramps is about the easiest way to do it. Make sure you follow the torque specs on the drain plug so you don't strip the pan!

I've also read the DEF flush is no longer required. I just topped mine up with fresh fluid.

Any recommended items/tools to refill DEF with 2.5 oem def gallon jug? Just use any funnel?

Great step-by-step!

I did mine yesterday at the Northwest BMW DIY in Owings Mills, MD -- hats off to Phil Cummings -- and was surprised how tricky it was to get that little plastic flap to come down. This is with the car on a lift!

You can also use a topsider to extract the old oil via the dipstick. I plan on doing this when out of warranty.

Originally Posted by 3ismagic#

You can also use a topsider to extract the old oil via the dipstick. I plan on doing this when out of warranty.

That's what I do. But it takes a while and you need to be in a quiet area so that you can hear when it starts sucking air so you can pump it up more or move it around to extract oil you can .

damn its expensive!!