Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 7 Series / 8 Series > 7 Series DIY

7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:41 AM
JML6278 JML6278 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: 745LI
DIY Power Folding Mirrors 2002-2008 E65 E66

I recently retrofitted a pair of power folding mirrors from a 2008 750Li into my 2003 745Li. I thought I would write up the steps I took so others might have an easier time taking on this project. I take no responsibility for any issues or damage that may arise from doing this retrofit. With that said this is how I approached the project.

The first thing you will need to do is make sure that your e65 or e66 has power memory seats so the wiring harness matches. I believe you can still do he retrofit without them, but it would be much harder since you would have to make wiring changes to accommodate the new mirrors. My e66 already had comfort power seats as well as heated seats. Please do proper research before taking on this retrofit to ensure that your wiring harness will be compatible.

The power folding mirrors are very expensive. If available they have been listed on eBay for anywhere from $600-$850 each mirror. I was able to find a pair from a 2008 750Li that were listed at $600 each with the make an offer option. After contacting the seller and negotiating I was able to get him to accept $750 cash for both mirrors. You will also need the door switch that has the small button on it that folds the mirrors. This can be found on eBay for around $95-$125. I got lucky and asked the seller if he had the switch and he did but didn't charge me or it. The day before I was to pick up the mirrors I texted the seller and told him I had second thoughts and he lowered the price to $650. I am telling you this because even though these mirrors are expensive I haven't seen them sell at the prices listed on eBay. So a little knowledge can be vey helpful when negotiating.

So after picking up the mirrors and door switch it was time to start the retrofit. First thing you need to do is disconnect the negative terminal on your battery since you will be removing the door panel which has an airbag. Failure to do this can result in the airbag discharging or airbag errors, so please don't forget to do this.

After the battery has been disconnected its time to remove the door panel. The BMW online TIS shows the entire door panel removed, but I was able to do the retrofit without removing or disconnecting everything. I put a 5 gallon paint bucket underneath the door [It's about 2-3 inches shorter than the bottom of the door panel so I was able to rest the panel on top of the upside down bucket which allowed me to access the door module and release the wiring harness].

To remove the door panel you need to do the following:

1. Press on point [A] and tilt out cover. Release screw underneath. I believe I used a Torx 15 or Torx 20 bit. See 1st Picture - [Door Handle.jpg] .

2. Carefully lever the 2 caps out of door trim panel. See 2nd Picture [2] [Armrest.jpg] The online TIS tells you to use a special tool, but i was able to remove the cap with a thin plastic card cut into a thin strip. See the 3rd Picture [Armrest 2.jpg] for a closeup of the trim panel cap. The trim scratches easily so you want to be careful not to force anything. the caps should pop out easily. remember the orientation for replacement later on. If I remember correctly their is a plastic peg which should be at the top when re-installing. Once the caps are removed you can then loosen the 2 screws underneath [I believe I used a Torx 15 or Torx 20 bit].

3. While you have the caps removed from the door trim panel, you can easily remove the door switch by taking a screwdriver and pushing it through the hole closet to the door switch at an angle. It shouldn't take much force to pop the back of the switch upwards. You can then remove the switch by pulling up and back. Their is a plastic clip in the front of the switch closest to the steering wheel, so be careful not to break it. I wrapped some cloth around the end of the screwdriver so not to damage the door switch. Their is a single connection to the door switch. Just disconnect it, then reconnect it to the new switch that has the button that controls the power folding mirrors and re-install it by sliding it in front first [where the plastic clip is] and then push the switch down until it clicks in place. It was a very easy removal and re-install.

4. Lever out airbag emblem. See 2nd Picture [1] [Armrest.jpg] and release screw underneath. [I believe I used a Torx 15 or Torx 20 bit].

5. Unfasten cap See 2nd Picture [3] [Armrest.jpg] and release screw underneath. It's hard to tell in the picture, but the cap is located at the end of the door near the door hinges. Once you have the door fully open it shouldn't be hard to find. The screw is covered with a leather cap that wasn't that easy to pop off. I used a plastic pry tool so I wouldn't damage the surrounding leather trim. Once you remove the cap you will find a phillips head screw that needs to be removed.

6. The next step is to start unclipping the door panel clips. The TIS tells you to use a special tool, but again I used a plastic pry tool. If you have a metal pry tool that will work also. See 4th Picture [1] [Door Panel Clips.jpg]. You want to start at the bottom right and work your way around. Go slow and be careful not to damage any of the clips. Make sure you have something underneath the door panel [like a 5 gallon paint bucket or a small bench], so after the panel is fully unclipped you don't have to hold it up.

7. Carefully unclip door trim panel [1] at top from retainers [2].
Feed out door trim [1] from unlocking knob [3]. See 5th Picture [Door Panel Upper Clips.jpg]. I found it was easier to do this with the window open so I could have a better viewing angle as I was removing the panel. Once you are done rest the panel on the bucket or whatever you put underneath the door. Just make sure that whatever you are going to rest the door panel on is only a couple of inches at most below the door, and that it has a flat surface and is capable of supporting the door panel.

8. Now that the door panel is safely removed you will have access to the door module [3] on the right. See 6th Picture [Door Module.jpg]. I disconnected the white wiring harness that is above the mirror's wiring harness [2] to make it easier to remove. You will need to cut the 2 cable ties that secure the wiring harness [1]. Make sure to be careful not to damage the harness while cutting the cable ties. Also make note of how the harness is routed so when you install the new mirrors you will route it correctly. You will also need 2 new cable ties per door to secure the cables in place.

9. You will now have to partially lever out the cover on door window frame. Pull the black plastic speaker grill slightly away from the window frame to get access to the 2 screws holding the mirror in place. See 7th Picture [Mirror Screws 1 and 2.jpg]. The picture shows the plastic window frame cover [1piece] fully removed, but you only need to lever it out enough to get access to the mirror screws. The plastic frame snaps back into place very easily so don't be too concerned if you have to lever more of it out then I did.

10. Now you will have access to the screws holding the mirror in place. Raise seal [1] slightly and release screw [2] See 7th Picture [Mirror 3rd Screw.jpg]. Then press rubber grommet [2] outwards, and while holding the mirror with one hand, release the 2 screws [3] on the left, and feed out mirror [4] with cable. I didn't feel the need disconnect the plug connection [5] with speaker in cover [1], but you may want to if it makes things easier for you. See 8th Picture [Mirror Screws 1 and 2.jpg].

*** Remember that you must have the plug connection disconnected from the door module and the cable ties must be cut off and removed prior to removing the mirror [See step 8].

11. For installation of the new power folding mirrors just make sure to secure new mirror to door frame before routing wiring harness back to door module. Also make sure that the insulation that fits between the mirror base hasn't fallen out and is in place before screwing mirror back to door frame. Also make sure that when you route the wiring harness that the grommet is pulled through to the inside of the door frame is properly fitted. See 8th Picture [Mirror Screws 1 and 2.jpg] for reference. You will also want to secure the wiring harness in place with new cable ties as I stated earlier.

Before putting the door panel back on I would test everything to make sure it works properly. In order to do this you need to code the door modules or it won't work. The modules that need to be coded are the TMBH,TMBT,TMFH,TMFT. I used NCS Expert so if you are using other software I won't be able to help you. I changed BEIKLAPPEN_B_KOMFORTSCHL (Comfort Folding Mirrors) to aktiv and the SPIEGELABKLAPPEN (Outside Mirror Folding In) was already set to aktiv before I started this retrofit, but make sure it is set when you code your car. There is one other line that I had to code for the power mirrors to work. ABS_ABKLAPPEN had to be set to aktiv [Thanks Paper].

I'm not sure if this is necessary, SA430 might need to be added t your VO. I already had SA430 in mine before I started the retrofit, so I can't be sure.

Now if you want to have the power mirrors open automatically when you turn off your alarm with the remote, then you will need to code these 2 lines in the CAS. Set both KOMFORTOEFFNUNG and KOMFORTSCHLIESSUNG to aktiv. [Only works if you closed the mirrors with the remote. If you closed them with the button on the door switch, then you will have to open them once you get in the car by pressing the button again]

If you code these 2 options then whenever you set your alarm with the remote and hold down the lock button for a few seconds, your mirrors will fold to a closed position. Then when you turn off your alarm with the remote, the mirrors will automatically open.

These instructions will work the same with the passenger side mirror. I would code the door modules prior to starting the retrofit, so you can test the door switch and remote after you install the drivers side mirror. Just make sure everything is reconnected before connecting the battery. If the mirror folds then disconnect the battery again before starting on the passenger side.

Here are the links to the online TIS:

BMW TIS - 51 41 000 Removing and installing left or right front door trim panel:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/46/36

BMW TIS - 51 16 000 Removing and installing / replacing mirror on left or right front door:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/54/96



Hope this helps,

Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Door Handle.JPG
Views:	412
Size:	24.3 KB
ID:	339073   Click image for larger version

Name:	Armrest.JPG
Views:	387
Size:	24.2 KB
ID:	339074   Click image for larger version

Name:	Armrest 2.JPG
Views:	344
Size:	19.6 KB
ID:	339075   Click image for larger version

Name:	Door Panel Clips.JPG
Views:	340
Size:	26.0 KB
ID:	339076   Click image for larger version

Name:	Door Panel Upper Clips.JPG
Views:	346
Size:	24.9 KB
ID:	339077  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Door Module.JPG
Views:	385
Size:	25.5 KB
ID:	339078   Click image for larger version

Name:	Mirror 3rd Screw.JPG
Views:	369
Size:	19.2 KB
ID:	339079   Click image for larger version

Name:	Mirror Screws 1 and 2.JPG
Views:	422
Size:	25.3 KB
ID:	339080  

Last edited by JML6278; 08-26-2012 at 01:01 PM. Reason: correct word
Reply With Quote
Advertisement
  #2  
Old 08-26-2012, 12:55 PM
PAPER's Avatar
PAPER PAPER is offline
CRISP & CLEAN
Location: CALIFORNIA L.A.
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,941
Mein Auto: 745LI
Very nice write up

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
__________________

If you need a Custom 2014 DVD Navigation Map
East or West for your E65 E66 PM me for price .
Or if you Need an AUX Plug for your car hit me up
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-26-2012, 01:09 PM
JML6278 JML6278 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by PAPER View Post
Very nice write up

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
Thanks. I would like to see if it's possible to do the hydraulic trunk. while I like having the trunk open with the remote, it would be nice to be able to have the trunk close with the remote as well. I see the parts on eBay, but I don't know if it's as easy as it might seem. depends if it's prewired or not.

I'd also like to change out the light module in the doors that light up the door handles. Every light in my car including the turn signals are white LED and every time I see the yellow glow from the door handles, it makes me wish it was as simple as changing the LED to a white one.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-26-2012, 01:10 PM
JML6278 JML6278 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by PAPER View Post
Very nice write up

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
Thanks for your help with the coding issue.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-26-2012, 01:49 PM
PAPER's Avatar
PAPER PAPER is offline
CRISP & CLEAN
Location: CALIFORNIA L.A.
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,941
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by JML6278 View Post
Thanks for your help with the coding issue.
No problem , I'm always Happy to help out .

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
__________________

If you need a Custom 2014 DVD Navigation Map
East or West for your E65 E66 PM me for price .
Or if you Need an AUX Plug for your car hit me up
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-26-2012, 03:43 PM
Rookie2008's Avatar
Rookie2008 Rookie2008 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC 4 Eva! Current California
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,193
Mein Auto: BMW 745LI/ F02
Good info! Paper I see you still helping people, but I am a little why you remove me form your friends list.
__________________
Sittin on 24's now with floating center caps
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-26-2012, 05:14 PM
PAPER's Avatar
PAPER PAPER is offline
CRISP & CLEAN
Location: CALIFORNIA L.A.
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,941
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by JML6278 View Post
Thanks. I would like to see if it's possible to do the hydraulic trunk. while I like having the trunk open with the remote, it would be nice to be able to have the trunk close with the remote as well. I see the parts on eBay, but I don't know if it's as easy as it might seem. depends if it's prewired or not.

I'd also like to change out the light module in the doors that light up the door handles. Every light in my car including the turn signals are white LED and every time I see the yellow glow from the door handles, it makes me wish it was as simple as changing the LED to a white one.

The trunk should be do able , also the Bulbs
in the doors . Sad part is you could have
done the led bulb when you did your mirrors
. If I recall correctly some 1 just posted the
bulb needed to do the swap . Maybe I'll pick
some Up & do mine .

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
__________________

If you need a Custom 2014 DVD Navigation Map
East or West for your E65 E66 PM me for price .
Or if you Need an AUX Plug for your car hit me up

Last edited by PAPER; 08-26-2012 at 05:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-29-2012, 04:20 PM
JML6278 JML6278 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: 745LI
Just to follow up on my DIY, everything still working great and I just sold my old non power folding mirrors for $550. After PayPal fees the retrofit only cost me $113, and I still have the old window switch to sell.

Now to get some more information to see if/how I can retrofit the hydraulic trunk open/close. I currently have the soft close trunk, but I'd really like to be able to close it remotely.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:05 PM
Keif Keif is offline
Master Tinkerer
Location: Houston, TX
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,201
Mein Auto: 2007 Alpina B7
Read through Makaveli's "programmed windows via..." thread; all you should need is in there. =) Did mine on my 2002 745Li with no problem a while back, as well as close windows and sunroof via remote, etc.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Bimmer App
__________________
 
Black 2007 Alpina B7
Tension strut bushings
 
White 2007 Alpina B7
Supercharger clutch/bearings, replaced exhaust valve/pulled head, sunroof seal, 6000K angel eyes
 
Black 2002 BMW 745Li (sold)
KW v3's, blue angel eyes, 8000K headlights & HID fogs, rebuilt alternator & mounting bracket gasket, sunroof seal, CCVs, plugs, sway bar bushings, timing & valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, guibo joint, mechatronic sealing sleeve, trans fluid, sanded headlights...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-29-2012, 10:10 PM
JML6278 JML6278 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: NYC
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 144
Mein Auto: 745LI
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keif View Post
Read through Makaveli's "programmed windows via..." thread; all you should need is in there. =) Did mine on my 2002 745Li with no problem a while back, as well as close windows and sunroof via remote, etc.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Bimmer App
I think you are talking about the programming for people who already have the trunk that closes by pressing the button on the trunk lid and want to close it with the remote. I don't have the button and while I haven't checked, I would doubt that I have the pump and other hardware that makes it close automatically. I want to do the retrofit that includes the hydraulic pump, lines, and shock and am concerned that more work is needed for wiring etc.

I haven't found a DIY for this retrofit anywhere.

Thanks,

Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-31-2012, 08:18 AM
Keif Keif is offline
Master Tinkerer
Location: Houston, TX
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,201
Mein Auto: 2007 Alpina B7
My apologies, I read your earlier post wrong. Have you looked through WDS at the wiring related to the trunk module (HKL, if I recall correctly) and the pump yet? If you need any reference pictures from someone with the comfort open/close, let me know; it's a long weekend and I may be pulling some trunk stuff apart anyway.
__________________
 
Black 2007 Alpina B7
Tension strut bushings
 
White 2007 Alpina B7
Supercharger clutch/bearings, replaced exhaust valve/pulled head, sunroof seal, 6000K angel eyes
 
Black 2002 BMW 745Li (sold)
KW v3's, blue angel eyes, 8000K headlights & HID fogs, rebuilt alternator & mounting bracket gasket, sunroof seal, CCVs, plugs, sway bar bushings, timing & valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, guibo joint, mechatronic sealing sleeve, trans fluid, sanded headlights...
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 7 Series / 8 Series > 7 Series DIY
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms