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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 04-05-2010, 12:38 PM
fatone fatone is offline
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Mein Auto: Acura Legend
Change ignition coil and spark plugs?

Hi,

I was trying to find a DIY for changing the Ignition coils and spark plugs, but couldn't find one. Can someone point me in the right direction. Does anyone have a diagram of where the coils are located? Also, is this an easy task for someone who doesn't really work on cars, but used to change my oil and spark plugs on my previous car?

Also I checked a couple websites and saw the Bosch OEM Ignition Coil
with Spark Plug Connector, but also the BREMI/STI part? Which one would you guys recommend?

Lastly, should I change all ignition coils or just the one that is misfiring? I am at 92k miles right now.

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2010, 05:10 PM
TechFreak TechFreak is offline
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...04&hg=12&fg=05
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Last edited by TechFreak; 04-05-2010 at 05:22 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2010, 06:19 PM
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wilson009 wilson009 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002 745i 116k
Just replace the bad one and only if it is bad. A misfire doesn't mean a bad coil.
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File Type: pdf Misfire CheckList.pdf (87.4 KB, 1240 views)
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2010, 08:55 PM
Keif Keif is offline
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My videos showing how to get the difficult spark plug boots out, and pictures showing the general process --> here.
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Black 2002 BMW 745Li (sold)
KW v3's, blue angel eyes, 8000K headlights & HID fogs, rebuilt alternator & mounting bracket gasket, sunroof seal, CCVs, plugs, sway bar bushings, timing & valve cover gaskets, valve stem seals, guibo joint, mechatronic sealing sleeve, trans fluid, sanded headlights...
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2010, 07:39 PM
fatone fatone is offline
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Well, I changed my Spark Plug and Ignition Coil on cylinder 7 (which is on the driver side) and was able to do it by just taking off the plastic engine cover. Took about 20 mins! The hardest part was getting the spark plug and socket out after loosening it. Kief's videos and pictures gave me the assurance and assistance I needed. It wasn't hard at all! I guess when I reach 100k I will know how to change all 8 of the spark plugs and that is when I will be a little more complex with the back cylinders (4-8)

Thanks TechFreak, Wilson009, and Kief and thanks for a great forum!
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  #6  
Old 04-13-2010, 07:57 PM
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MakaveliFaison MakaveliFaison is offline
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How do you know which cylinder is misfiring
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2010, 08:21 PM
m50b25 m50b25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakaveliFaison View Post
How do you know which cylinder is misfiring
read errors with the scanner or buy one for 70$ from autozone, works fine

failed coils is a standard for N62 i would say it is standard for all bmw's starting form 90'
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:37 AM
TechGuy TechGuy is offline
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If you have a misfire, you'll take out your plastic covers. Then you will start pulling the sockets on the coils one by one. At the instant of pulling one and seeing no effect in the way the engine idles, you have found the missing cylinder.

The V8s are a pain in the ar** to have the spark plugs/coils of 4th and 8th replaces. I take the caps of the coils off to be able to slide them out. I set a record for replacing the spark plugs and injectors at exactly 1.5 hours. And believe me I was in pain.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2010, 01:45 PM
intsu intsu is offline
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If you have miss fires, does the check engine light go on at any point?

I think i am constantly having miss fires of some sort. When the engine idles, I can feel whole car shaking little bit. And when starting cold its definitely shaking hard.

btw what spark plugs did you use?
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:44 AM
jkess114 jkess114 is offline
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A tip for pulling coils out: I grew tired, rather my fingers grew tired of the pain incurred pulling out the coils by the finger hole in the cap of the coil top. I took a long 3/8" extension, putting it through the hole in the cap, and was able to use two hands to get it to separate from the plug. Much easier and makes it pretty instantaneous. Before with my finger, I would have to twist it a bit and it was bloody murder on my fingers.

Best,
josh
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2013, 09:07 AM
BravermanBeamer BravermanBeamer is offline
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Mein Auto: '03 530i//M
did it fix your problem? I just purchased a 99 528i.. got on it on the highway, got it home, now misfires a bit, thinking it's a plug too. how did you know which one was bad?


thanks for the support!
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  #12  
Old 12-18-2013, 09:09 AM
BravermanBeamer BravermanBeamer is offline
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so pull the sockets out one by one.. what about the plugs? pardon my ignorance, I'm new at this. -99 528i

thanks for the support!
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  #13  
Old 12-28-2014, 04:00 PM
riff riff is online now
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Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
Spark plug boots problem and Tite-Reach tool

Lovely process changing spark plugs on these cars. Reminds me of the Spanish Inquisition....

So I have gotten all of the 2nd bank done. Had one boot - not plug or coil - that got stuck but managed to get it out using a pick.

The problem is Bank1 (cylinders 1-4). I can't get boots out of cylinders 1, 2, and 4. I can get the coils out with no problem. I tried multiple tools to reach in but there just is not enough room for a long handle pick/screwdriver to reach in due to interference issues - of which there are myriad. I did loosen the mount for the ABS but that still does not give me enough room.

So...

Any one got any tricks on hosing those babies out of there? Wire hanger? Specialized BMW tool that costs $300? Dynamite? Your input is much appreciated.


On the subject of the Tite-Reach tool
http://www.tite-reach.com/

It worked like a charm. Got into the tight spots with no issues and took major torque without issue (whoever put the last plugs in put them in with locktite....). I recommend the wrench for anyone that is thinking of this job. Good addition to the tool box.
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  #14  
Old 12-28-2014, 04:06 PM
riff riff is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
Lovely process changing spark plugs on these cars. Reminds me of the Spanish Inquisition....

So I have gotten all of the 2nd bank done. Had one boot - not plug or coil - that got stuck but managed to get it out using a pick.

The problem is Bank1 (cylinders 1-4). I can't get boots out of cylinders 1, 2, and 4. I can get the coils out with no problem. I tried multiple tools to reach in but there just is not enough room for a long handle pick/screwdriver to reach in due to interference issues - of which there are myriad. I did loosen the mount for the ABS but that still does not give me enough room.

So...

Any one got any tricks on hosing those babies out of there? Wire hanger? Specialized BMW tool that costs $300? Dynamite? Your input is much appreciated.


On the subject of the Tite-Reach tool
http://www.tite-reach.com/

It worked like a charm. Got into the tight spots with no issues and took major torque without issue (whoever put the last plugs in put them in with locktite....). I recommend the wrench for anyone that is thinking of this job. Good addition to the tool box.
Ok. I'm going to answer my own questions. Go to post #22 on this thread (for those that care):
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=304442

"a couple of coil boots got stuck inside the spark plug hole and persistent effort inserting and removing the coil would not get enough friction to pull them out. I was able to solve this by sticking a latex glove over the end of the coil, insert it into the hole and pull the rubber boot out with it. This worked on both of the coils where the boots got stuck inside."

A big thank you to teejaylentz!

I'll try this tomorrow.
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2014, 08:15 AM
riff riff is online now
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Latex glove trick worked great. Just wrap the fingers of the glove 2 or 3 times around the bottom of the coil, pop it back in the spark plug well, seat it as best you can and slowly pull it back out and the boot should be on the end. This worked without a hitch for me.

As a side note - I used the BavAuto High Performance coils - not sure what the difference is between them and OEM but they were on sale. When I initially started the car white smoke pored out of the engine compartment after about 10 seconds of running - OH CRAP FIRE!!! WTF DID I DO!!! Except there was no fire, no errors on the dash, just a lot of white smoke. I shut it down, looked for evidence of fire, scorching, melted plastic, etc. and checked that everything was seated correctly - nothing. There a was a lot of smoke - enough to fill a three garage bay.

So...

I restarted it (with a fire extinguisher in my other hand). It ran for about 2 minutes and I was just starting to relax when SMOKE - but much less this time. WTF.....Checked everything again. No signs of any burning or melting. No errors.

OK....ONE MORE TIME!!!

Started it (fire extinguisher still in hand). No smoke. Engine humming nicely. Waiting, waiting, waiting. No smoke. Left it running for 10 minutes, no smoke. OK. Test drive. No problems.

So...

Maybe there is coating in/on the coils that burns off initially? Anyone else seen this happen?
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  #16  
Old 06-08-2015, 11:24 PM
skyebaby22 skyebaby22 is offline
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Location: California
 
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Mein Auto: '93 BMW 325; '03 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
Latex glove trick worked great. Just wrap the fingers of the glove 2 or 3 times around the bottom of the coil, pop it back in the spark plug well, seat it as best you can and slowly pull it back out and the boot should be on the end. This worked without a hitch for me.

As a side note - I used the BavAuto High Performance coils - not sure what the difference is between them and OEM but they were on sale. When I initially started the car white smoke pored out of the engine compartment after about 10 seconds of running - OH CRAP FIRE!!! WTF DID I DO!!! Except there was no fire, no errors on the dash, just a lot of white smoke. I shut it down, looked for evidence of fire, scorching, melted plastic, etc. and checked that everything was seated correctly - nothing. There a was a lot of smoke - enough to fill a three garage bay.

So...

I restarted it (with a fire extinguisher in my other hand). It ran for about 2 minutes and I was just starting to relax when SMOKE - but much less this time. WTF.....Checked everything again. No signs of any burning or melting. No errors.

OK....ONE MORE TIME!!!

Started it (fire extinguisher still in hand). No smoke. Engine humming nicely. Waiting, waiting, waiting. No smoke. Left it running for 10 minutes, no smoke. OK. Test drive. No problems.

So...

Maybe there is coating in/on the coils that burns off initially? Anyone else seen this happen?
Hi Riff, I have a '03 745li and I'm in the process of having an Indy change my plugs. I'm thinking of purchasing the Bav Auto Performance coils. 1) do you like them? 2) what kind of plugs did you use?
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2015, 06:34 PM
riff riff is online now
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Iridium plugs (I forget the NK62 or something like that - easy to find the actual number on this site). The coils work fine. The car is a beast after the change but that could be the plugs as much as the coils. My coils were definitely due for a change.

On a side note I would not pay any one to do this job. It is a 2-3 on a scale of 10 for difficulty.
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2015, 10:33 PM
skyebaby22 skyebaby22 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
Iridium plugs (I forget the NK62 or something like that - easy to find the actual number on this site). The coils work fine. The car is a beast after the change but that could be the plugs as much as the coils. My coils were definitely due for a change.

On a side note I would not pay any one to do this job. It is a 2-3 on a scale of 10 for difficulty.
Thank you for your feedback Riff. Do you have to gap the NGK plugs?
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  #19  
Old 06-10-2015, 08:40 AM
riff riff is online now
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No. Don't touch the gap. They are preset.

IRT to the ease of doing this your self: The toughest part of the job are #2,3, and 8. 2 requires that you unbolt the hold down for the ABS and pull it out of its rubber mount directly below the unit (you can see it with a mirror). Just unbolt and pull up about an inch (you aren't removing it. You're just lifting it gently out of the way by an inch.). #3 can be done without doing that but it makes it easier. #8 is located by the rear driver's side. For this one all you have to do is unscrew the plastic hold down cap for the firewall insulation - takes 5 seconds.

You will want a set of extensions (3", 6", 9"), universal, adapter for 3/8" to 1/2" for possible use of a breaker bar for the ones that are over torqued.

Look here for an excellent thread on doing this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=304442

and here for the worlds best tutorial with pictures and videos (ty to KiefR):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/281075...7622428087916/

Do it. Save a buck. Several bucks. Begin down the path of DIY. You will never return. Become a DIY Jedi.

You get the idea......

Last edited by riff; 06-10-2015 at 08:43 AM.
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2015, 08:41 AM
riff riff is online now
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No. Don't touch the gap. They are preset.

IRT to the ease of doing this your self: The toughest part of the job are #2,3, and 8. 2 requires that you unbolt the hold down for the ABS and pull it out of its rubber mount directly below the unit (you can see it with a mirror). Just unbolt and pull up about an inch (you aren't removing it. You're just lifting it gently out of the way by an inch.). #3 can be down without doing that but it makes it easier. #8 is located by the rear driver's side. For this one all you have to do is unscrew the plastic hold down cap for the firewall insulation - takes 5 seconds.

You will want a set of extensions (3", 6", 9"), universal, adapter for 3/8" to 1/2" for possible use of a breaker bar for the ones that are over torqued.

Look here for an excellent thread on doing this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=304442

and here for the worlds best tutorial with pictures and videos (ty to KiefR):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/281075...7622428087916/

Do it. Save a buck. Several bucks. Begin down the path of DIY. You will never return. Become a DIY Jedi.

You get the idea......
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  #21  
Old 06-10-2015, 09:43 AM
skyebaby22 skyebaby22 is offline
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Mein Auto: '93 BMW 325; '03 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
No. Don't touch the gap. They are preset.

IRT to the ease of doing this your self: The toughest part of the job are #2,3, and 8. 2 requires that you unbolt the hold down for the ABS and pull it out of its rubber mount directly below the unit (you can see it with a mirror). Just unbolt and pull up about an inch (you aren't removing it. You're just lifting it gently out of the way by an inch.). #3 can be down without doing that but it makes it easier. #8 is located by the rear driver's side. For this one all you have to do is unscrew the plastic hold down cap for the firewall insulation - takes 5 seconds.

You will want a set of extensions (3", 6", 9"), universal, adapter for 3/8" to 1/2" for possible use of a breaker bar for the ones that are over torqued.

Look here for an excellent thread on doing this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=304442

and here for the worlds best tutorial with pictures and videos (ty to KiefR):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/281075...7622428087916/

Do it. Save a buck. Several bucks. Begin down the path of DIY. You will never return. Become a DIY Jedi.

You get the idea......
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback Riff. Much appreciated.
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2015, 09:46 AM
skyebaby22 skyebaby22 is offline
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Location: California
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 27
Mein Auto: '93 BMW 325; '03 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
No. Don't touch the gap. They are preset.

IRT to the ease of doing this your self: The toughest part of the job are #2,3, and 8. 2 requires that you unbolt the hold down for the ABS and pull it out of its rubber mount directly below the unit (you can see it with a mirror). Just unbolt and pull up about an inch (you aren't removing it. You're just lifting it gently out of the way by an inch.). #3 can be down without doing that but it makes it easier. #8 is located by the rear driver's side. For this one all you have to do is unscrew the plastic hold down cap for the firewall insulation - takes 5 seconds.

You will want a set of extensions (3", 6", 9"), universal, adapter for 3/8" to 1/2" for possible use of a breaker bar for the ones that are over torqued.

Look here for an excellent thread on doing this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=304442

and here for the worlds best tutorial with pictures and videos (ty to KiefR):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/281075...7622428087916/

Do it. Save a buck. Several bucks. Begin down the path of DIY. You will never return. Become a DIY Jedi.

You get the idea......
A little off subject, but maybe you can help. I've read some threads regarding brakes and rotors and how you have to change the rotors every time you change your brake pads. Is this true? I just bought some ceramic pads from Oreillys, but now I'm thinking about purchasing the red pagid ones from BAV Auto, but I'm confused as to whether or not I need to replace the rotors as well. Thanks for your time!
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  #23  
Old 06-10-2015, 12:35 PM
riff riff is online now
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Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
You only need rotors if they are worn down past specs or if you have damaged them by not changing your pads in time (that ugly squealing sound when you stop on worn pads will eventually damage the rotors).

So short answer is no, you do not have to change your rotors every time you change your pads. Rule of thumb might be every 80-100k. I changed mind at 90k. They needed it. You need a sledge hammer to get them off unless someone used anti-seize compound on the last change. Give 'em a good whack, some times multiple whacks, and they will pop off.

Brakes are amongst the easiest of jobs to do on your car. You do need a floor jack, chocks, and jack stands. Bav Auto has DIY videos for this.
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:58 AM
skyebaby22 skyebaby22 is offline
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Location: California
 
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Mein Auto: '93 BMW 325; '03 745
Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
You only need rotors if they are worn down past specs or if you have damaged them by not changing your pads in time (that ugly squealing sound when you stop on worn pads will eventually damage the rotors).

So short answer is no, you do not have to change your rotors every time you change your pads. Rule of thumb might be every 80-100k. I changed mind at 90k. They needed it. You need a sledge hammer to get them off unless someone used anti-seize compound on the last change. Give 'em a good whack, some times multiple whacks, and they will pop off.

Brakes are amongst the easiest of jobs to do on your car. You do need a floor jack, chocks, and jack stands. Bav Auto has DIY videos for this.
Thanks again Riff. What brake pads do you like? I'm torn between staying OE and trying the Bosch Quiet Cast and keeping the current rotors which don't seem to have a "lip" or groove and/or trying the Akebono that everybody either loves or hates paired with new Zimmerman rotors. Thoughts?
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2015, 12:36 PM
riff riff is online now
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Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
IMHO - anything but organic (dust). Don't over think it. I got my last ones in a set from BavAuto. Again - they are brake pads - save your money for that coolant transfer pipe/water pump/secondary air job that's in your future....
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