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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 09-11-2011, 11:17 PM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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I will retest the bad speed sensor. My results from initial testing are posted above, and it really looks like it tested fine. My bad speed sensor is *intermittently* bad in practice, however... it seems to work fine up until 10-20km/h and then it sort of cuts in and out.

I actually have video of this happening, showing the DIS live logging screen as I accelerate and drive at a steady speed.

It's worth noting that the bad sensor is a non-OEM unit, branded something like TEAK-E, while the good one has Mayle all over it along with "Made in Germany." Further, the sensor's lead wire length was about 2" shorter, causing it to be a bit tight from the chassis connector to the mount where the rubber pieces slides in. It is still installed in the front left because I spent the day watching the Bears kick ass and then kicking the power steering's ass myself
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  #27  
Old 09-15-2011, 09:22 AM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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This is as good a place as any to add my own experience with the ABS, DSC, and brake light syndrome. For a few months, I noticed that the lights would come on occasionally. Then I realized that there was a pattern to this behavior. When the car was first started, no warning lights appeared. However, if I turned the car off a while, let it sit, and then restarted it, the lights would come on. They would also come on if I drove long enough in traffic. This clearly suggested it was related to heat in the engine compartment, where the ABS module sits. I tried to do the diagnostic test at the connector, but wasn't able to get any meaningful results, and so I let it ride. A month or so later, the speedometer started going out, along with the lights, and because the issue seemed pretty clearly centered in the engine compartment (the sensors evidently worked when the car was cold), I shipped the module off to BBA in Massachusetts. Two days ago, I got it back and installed it. With some anxiety, I started the car, and no warning lights. I've since driven it, stopping and restarting, and have had no more problems with warning lights or the speedometer.

After I installed the unit, I found a paper in the box with this warning:

VERY IMPORTANT:

YOU MUST MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE FITTING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE UNIT AND COULD RISK VOIDING THE WARRANTY


Oops! Well, I guess I lucked out.

It goes on to offer this advice:
Wheel speed sensor faults are common on the vehicle but maybe incorrectly diagnosed by scanner equipment. Faulty sensors can fail for a around half a millisecond at a time. This is too quick for a scanner to see (the sample ratefor scanners are usually much larger) but the ABS controller 'sees' a signal dropping to the reference voltage of the active sensor and assumes the wheel is locked. Because the fault time is so small, the ecu cannot determine which wheel is at fault and brings up the first trouble code it finds, often a rear sensor. Please use a suitable scope to measure all wheel speed sensors form the ECU loom. By setting the time base to a sample rate of 5ms/div or smaller you may well find that one of the sensors is faulty, even if you have already replaced the sensor your diagnostic machine has flagged as faulty
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  #28  
Old 09-17-2011, 11:38 PM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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Final update posted. Hopefully someone out there can gain from my experience
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WS6 - 231/234 / 6MT / 4.10 / 410rwhp
ITR - 262/262 / 5MT / 12.2:1 / 9600rpm

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  #29  
Old 11-21-2011, 12:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick99Si View Post
Hopefully someone out there can gain from my experience
For the record, since the quick-test failed you, I've taken the liberty of referencing both approaches when people ask how to test for the bifecta or trifecta.

For example, just today, this was asked:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > ABS lights are on/speedometer,odometer not functioning

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gsicat540i View Post
Just bought a 99 BMW 540i, ABS lights, Brake (not hand brake) lights are on plus the odometer and speedometer isnt working. Read some posts regarding same problem but evryone seems to say different things. Any input that can help will be much appreciated.
To which, I responded:
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I ran into the same problem ... what you need are well researched threads with enough people responding to cull out all the mistakes (choose threads with at least a few tens of thousands of visits).

For starters ... I'd read the threads listed in the bestlinks ... (BTW, read the whole thread, not just one post, as corrections were applied over the span of almost 150 thousand visitors):

- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1) & what are all known options when your ABS control module is bad (1) & Quick99Si's explanation of why the 10-minute wheel speed sensor diode-action quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors (1) (2) & explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1)


Last edited by bluebee; 11-21-2011 at 12:46 PM.
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  #30  
Old 11-21-2011, 08:01 PM
Whorse Whorse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whorse View Post
That is so true. The bad advice flies around alot about this, When I first started looking up the tri-fecta issue every thread had someone saying replace the speed sensor since its so cheap and easy. WRONG cheapest and easiest thing to do would be drive the car and test the cruise control. If it works then the speed sensor is fine.
Sorry I should clarify testing the cruise control will only confirm if the right rear sensor is defective.

On another note, I got the TRI-FECTA AGAIN! 900 miles after the rebuild of the module, Before sending it back I decided to get my INPA/GT1 setup running in my garage. and Viola front right speed sensor was dead, bought a new VDO sensor, installed it and all is well. As soon as I backed out my driveway the lights went off.

BTW Learning how to setup and use INPA and GT1 is soooooo worth it! I bought the OBD/ADS interface from eBay along with a 20' foot serial cable, used my old desktop that has a serial cable connection. Also bought a serial to usb adapter and installed INPA AND GT1 on my mini Acer laptop for portability. Once you get the hang of it and understand its capabilities you will not regret spending soo much time setting it up and spending about 150 bux for the cables, diag head and for safety i bought the software from a known forum member instead of playing the lotto with virus filled torrents.

Next step install and learn how to use SSS/Progman so I can work on 2006+ BMW's
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BMWCCA# 186796
86 325es (wrecked by careless driver)
87 325 300k (project for life) aka 1BADETA/Christine
00 540is 6spd 214k (daily driver) Timing chain guides just failed. In the middle of a full rebuild instead of repair. I wonder how much longer it would of gone if i just repaired it.

Last edited by Whorse; 11-21-2011 at 08:02 PM.
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  #31  
Old 02-04-2012, 11:41 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Is this the peake tool you purchased?
http://www.peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm

It doesn't mention if it reads ABS codes, but maybe that's my ignorance to being new at this. :-)

Last edited by mjbennett9; 02-05-2012 at 12:19 PM.
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  #32  
Old 02-05-2012, 03:21 AM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
Is this the peake tool you purchased?
http://www.peakeresearch.com/fcx3.htm

It doesn't mention if it reads ABS codes, but maybe that's my ignorance to being new at this. :-)
The one that I have is on that page and is labeled as: R5/FCX-3-U For mechanics (1987-2007). Plugs in under dash (16 pin) AND under hood (20 pin) $184.94 includes adaptor. I did not read/reset any ABS codes with it because I didn't really have any, but I remember the 3U being the best of the bunch that should do air bags + ABS in addition to the engine, trans, and body stuff.

I see that you're in Indiana. Maybe can meet you somewhere if you'd like to try it yourself, I'm just north of Chicago.

Also, please unquote my post from yours, it's very long and a pain to scroll through.
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  #33  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:32 AM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quick99si View Post
please unquote my post from yours, it's very long and a pain to scroll through.
+1
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  #34  
Old 02-13-2012, 02:54 PM
jetflyer jetflyer is offline
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I had the ABS/DSC/BRAKE light issue too. It seems that the circuit boards develop fine cracks in the soldering over the years. A company in Idaho specializes in repairing ABS modules with a very fast turn around time.

I removed my electronic brake control module from the brake valve by removing 4 simple screws. The module is removed without opening any fluid lines. (my Z3 was still drivable, but with no ABS protection).

I sent the module to modulemaster.com in Idaho. They rebuilt my module and returned it to me within days! No dealer reprogramming was needed because they fixed the module I sent to them. Total cost of repair $150 (the dealer wanted $800).

www.modulemaster.com

Last edited by jetflyer; 02-13-2012 at 02:55 PM.
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  #35  
Old 02-13-2012, 03:03 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetflyer View Post
...I sent the module to modulemaster.com in Idaho. They rebuilt my module and returned it to me within days! No dealer reprogramming was needed because they fixed the module I sent to them. Total cost of repair $150 (the dealer wanted $800).

www.modulemaster.com
That's a good price for Module Masters. They used to be at $300. Others on this board have used them with good results as well.
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  #36  
Old 02-13-2012, 03:11 PM
Qmetro Qmetro is offline
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Excuse me reading thread , heard whorse say drive car check cruise control. Well I have too funny problems, one is cruise control when turned on pegs to wide open throttle I cancel it by 90 mph. Plus or minus buttons on steering do nothing.
Second check brake lights come less than 2 minutes of driving car. Bulbs look good and have CRC electrical cleaned sockets contacts. Idk is this related to speed sensors .
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  #37  
Old 02-13-2012, 04:08 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetflyer View Post
I had the ABS/DSC/BRAKE light issue too. It seems that the circuit boards develop fine cracks in the soldering over the years. A company in Idaho specializes in repairing ABS modules with a very fast turn around time.

I removed my electronic brake control module from the brake valve by removing 4 simple screws. The module is removed without opening any fluid lines. (my Z3 was still drivable, but with no ABS protection).

I sent the module to modulemaster.com in Idaho. They rebuilt my module and returned it to me within days! No dealer reprogramming was needed because they fixed the module I sent to them. Total cost of repair $150 (the dealer wanted $800).

www.modulemaster.com
Too bad the e39 525i wasn't $150 too. Sending mine in tomorrow and it's $300.
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  #38  
Old 02-13-2012, 04:40 PM
jeffstri jeffstri is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
Too bad the e39 525i wasn't $150 too. Sending mine in tomorrow and it's $300.
Wait, stop!!!

BBA reman should be only about $100
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  #39  
Old 02-13-2012, 04:51 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Originally Posted by jeffstri View Post
Wait, stop!!!

BBA reman should be only about $100
Awesome! thank you!!! :-)
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  #40  
Old 08-24-2012, 06:19 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Today, an update was posted where, again, the 10-minute quick test failed to diagnose what turned out to be TWO bad wheel speed sensors.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Traction Control Kicks In at a Few MPH, then Trifecta Lights -Tried Everything? Help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwartz540i View Post
Okay, it's been a while, but I finally got back to it and the problem is solved. Turns out that the codes 6 and 7 were accurate. Hard to believe, but both front sensors were bad! I found replacements on eBay for <$20 each, so I figured I would give it a try. They were so dry rotted that when I took the old sensors off, the mounting ears just fell off. (BTW, they passed the DVM tests.) Cleaned the surfaces, installed the new sensors, and the lights went off. What a relief! So I guess the lesson learned is not to assume there is only one problem. The lights have been on for about a year, so I guess in that time the front sensors must have failed, even though they weren't the reason for the lights in the first place. Thanks to everyone for the help!

For the record, here are the latest bestlinks:
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1) & what are all known options when your ABS control module is bad (1) & Quick99Si's explanation of why the 10-minute wheel speed sensor diode-action quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors (1) (2) & explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1) & an ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta brake pressure sensor diagnostic DIY (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #41  
Old 09-12-2012, 03:12 PM
David330gr David330gr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Today, an update was posted where, again, the 10-minute quick test failed to diagnose what turned out to be TWO bad wheel speed sensors.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Traction Control Kicks In at a Few MPH, then Trifecta Lights -Tried Everything? Help!




For the record, here are the latest bestlinks:
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1) & what are all known options when your ABS control module is bad (1) & Quick99Si's explanation of why the 10-minute wheel speed sensor diode-action quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors (1) (2) & explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1) & an ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta brake pressure sensor diagnostic DIY (1)
Hello everybody and a big thanks for the helpful informations..!!!
bluebee, I am reading the last 3 days your posts about the ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta and i cannot found my problem, mabye i am not a good reader and for this reason i am sorry to ask you about my problem, mabye you have post solution and i have miss it.
My problem is: ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta ,I have Gt1 and i have error message on the ABS pressure sensor,When i measure the pressure sensor with Gt1 i can read 290bar,after disconecting the pressure sensor i have the same measurement. I am measuring separately the sensor as your instructions and the sensor works.Can you help me please?

Thanks...!!!
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  #42  
Old 09-12-2012, 11:42 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David330gr View Post
I am reading the last 3 days your posts about the ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta and i cannot found my problem
Hmmm... I only know what I test & fix, so I know there's LOTs and LOTs of stuff in the trifecta thread about the brake pressure sensor.

In fact, I had a bogus brake pressure sense reading also. So do many people. There's an entire thread on it too. All that is listed (many times) in the trifecta thread.

Anyway, just look here for how to test it properly:
- ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta brake pressure sensor diagnostic test DIY (1)

Hint: Your problem is almost certainly NOT the brake pressure sensor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David330gr View Post
My problem is: ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta ,I have Gt1 and i have error message on the ABS pressure sensor
Hmmm... You can hope beyond hope that the fancy schmancy tools are telling you the truth ... or ... you can just take Bill's advice:
- Repeated exasperating explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1)

__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #43  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:22 AM
David330gr David330gr is offline
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PROBLEM SOLVED......!!!!
Was a bad contact on the signal pin from the pressure sensor to the abs unit ,Note that the GT1 read 290bar pressure with and without connection with the pressure sensor...!!!

THANKS FOR YOUR IMPORTANT INFORMATIONS...!!!:thum bup:
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  #44  
Old 09-14-2012, 07:17 AM
jeffstri jeffstri is offline
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Good job. I think Bluebee would have suggested that you not bother to even read fault codes and brake pressure with your fancy schmancy GT1/DIS, but instead do a 10 min wheel sensor test and if that was ok, send your DSC module out for repair, leaving you out at least $100 and no closer to fixing your problem.

Last edited by jeffstri; 09-14-2012 at 07:41 AM.
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  #45  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:36 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstri View Post
Good job. I think Bluebee would have suggested that you not bother to even read fault codes and brake pressure with your fancy schmancy GT1/DIS, but instead do a 10 min wheel sensor test and if that was ok, send your DSC module out for repair, leaving you out at least $100 and no closer to fixing your problem.
This is quite true!

But, also remember that I spent a LOT of effort learning and documenting the explicit tests for the brake pressure sensor (none of which require the fancy schmancy tools) as described in this thread:
- How to test the brake pressure sensor (1)

So, you 'can' still get the necessary tests done with just a toothpick, a DMM, and paperclips.
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1)

Notwithstanding that observation, JeffStri correctly pointed out long ago that there 'is' still much value gained by the use of the fancy test tools - when interpreted correctly.

That's the problem. The interpretation. As stated MANY times by Bill:
- Explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)

And, Quick99Si has also pointed out a case where the quick 10-minute wheel speed sensor test failed him:
- Why the 5-minute ABS DIY quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors, by Quick99Si (1)

Jeff: To be fair to me, I certainly spent as much time as anyone (including Quick99Si & RDL) making sure users have easy access to the fancy schmancy tools as clearly shown here:
- A collection of the most often recommended BMW diagnostic tools & cable interfaces (1)

In summary, to be fair to me:
a) I never said the 10-minute speed sensor quick test ALWAYS works;
b) In fact, I often point people to this thread which clearly shows that the 10-minute sensor quick test does NOT always work!

And, related to the recent brake pressure sensor observation you're responding to:
a) I've written up (in great detail) EXACTLY how to test the BPR with just a DMM & flying leads (without needing the fancy tools);
b) Yet, I've also written up (in extremely great details) exactly where to get and how to install the fancy tools.

So, Jeff - I 'do' respect everything you say - especially since you're right and you know more than I ever will - but - I also promote other ways of doing things that can be cheaper and easier than using the fancy tools - yet I also promote the fancy tools - and warn to interpret them correctly.

I think that's balance.

For example, here is what has been in the bestlinks for quite a long time:
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1) & what are all known options when your ABS control module is bad (1) & Quick99Si's explanation of why the 10-minute wheel speed sensor diode-action quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors (1) (2) & explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1)

If you ask why I'm saying all this, it's because I care about my credibility (and, for some reason, perhaps unwarranted, I took your response as a dig at my credibility).
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 09-14-2012 at 02:49 PM.
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  #46  
Old 09-16-2012, 07:16 AM
Quick99Si Quick99Si is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstri View Post
Good job. I think Bluebee would have suggested that you not bother to even read fault codes and brake pressure with your fancy schmancy GT1/DIS, but instead do a 10 min wheel sensor test and if that was ok, send your DSC module out for repair, leaving you out at least $100 and no closer to fixing your problem.
Most rebuilders will refund your money if they don't fix the problem. Also, no need to be a jerk about it.

-Adi
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WS6 - 231/234 / 6MT / 4.10 / 410rwhp
ITR - 262/262 / 5MT / 12.2:1 / 9600rpm

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  #47  
Old 09-16-2012, 05:44 PM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Boy, I have been so busy with work that I hardly ever get on this board. This is one of the strangest threads I have read and I still don't know if I got it. Quick99Si had a problem, then I thought he found it and now it is back?

Lots of people still making idiotic statements...peoplee question the diode test, et al. Just to clear up one "mistatement" and that is that "what BMW has is better than anything out there, including the Autologic! The Autologic can still do things for the ABS module that others including the GT-1 have failed to do-namely, program the new module and take care of stubborn yaw sensor errors, match to your vin, etc. Mark as in AutoECU Mark tried his inpa and all the other stuff he had and in the end, the Autologic fixed the problem.

Never seen a sensor I could not diagnose with a good DVM like my Fluke 86-sorry to the
doubters...I have tried to contribute to the Trifecta of lights so many times I will not any longer even bother. People don't read, they tell me (in nicer ways) I'm full of it, they continue to send modules to ATE when they just said a module was junk and two days later said it had no issues. I would not put a nickel's worth of confidence on anything ATE says and if people continue to send to them I have already gotten my last refund for a ripped-off forum member. Use them all you want as people like Bee have continued to attempt to educate by posting to others believed as maybe knowing a little something.

If you have a ten year old vehicle or older, why would you own a BMW and be so hesitant to start with Bosch's newest module bought through Mark and coded by the nearest Autologic you can find? Then, you may take the module out of the equation and easily trust your sensor tests! If yours is still good after 10 years, it won't be for long anyway-part with the bucks and get brand new and coded by an INDIE that knows his ass from his yaw sensor. In the meantime, I have cured mine going on 3 years and learned a lot along the way! Stay away from ATE was likely the first! You all have fun figuring out on your own as many of us have and I won't worry about explaining why things are the way they are about this system any more. Its all been said anyway! G/L my friends.
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  #48  
Old 09-16-2012, 07:42 PM
jeffstri jeffstri is offline
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Location: CT
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 45
Mein Auto: 740il
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick99Si View Post
Most rebuilders will refund your money if they don't fix the problem. Also, no need to be a jerk about it.
They'll refund your money if they can't fix your module, not if your problem is something else. Also, no need to be a jerk about it.
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  #49  
Old 09-16-2012, 08:02 PM
jeffstri jeffstri is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
Boy, I have been so busy with work that I hardly ever get on this board. This is one of the strangest threads I have read and I still don't know if I got it. Quick99Si had a problem, then I thought he found it and now it is back?

Lots of people still making idiotic statements...peoplee question the diode test, et al. Just to clear up one "mistatement" and that is that "what BMW has is better than anything out there, including the Autologic! The Autologic can still do things for the ABS module that others including the GT-1 have failed to do-namely, program the new module and take care of stubborn yaw sensor errors, match to your vin, etc. Mark as in AutoECU Mark tried his inpa and all the other stuff he had and in the end, the Autologic fixed the problem.

Never seen a sensor I could not diagnose with a good DVM like my Fluke 86-sorry to the
doubters...I have tried to contribute to the Trifecta of lights so many times I will not any longer even bother. People don't read, they tell me (in nicer ways) I'm full of it, they continue to send modules to ATE when they just said a module was junk and two days later said it had no issues. I would not put a nickel's worth of confidence on anything ATE says and if people continue to send to them I have already gotten my last refund for a ripped-off forum member. Use them all you want as people like Bee have continued to attempt to educate by posting to others believed as maybe knowing a little something.

If you have a ten year old vehicle or older, why would you own a BMW and be so hesitant to start with Bosch's newest module bought through Mark and coded by the nearest Autologic you can find? Then, you may take the module out of the equation and easily trust your sensor tests! If yours is still good after 10 years, it won't be for long anyway-part with the bucks and get brand new and coded by an INDIE that knows his ass from his yaw sensor. In the meantime, I have cured mine going on 3 years and learned a lot along the way! Stay away from ATE was likely the first! You all have fun figuring out on your own as many of us have and I won't worry about explaining why things are the way they are about this system any more. Its all been said anyway! G/L my friends.
Not sure what this is all about, but if you had ever used DIS/GT1 yourself you would know it can code a new DSC module and do all the other stuff you mention just fine. And are you saying you should buy a new module even if yours can be rebuilt?

Diode tests are fine for diodes, but why do you think they are reliable for more complex circuits? When you get the "trifecta" should you just start doing diode tests every sensor involved in the ABS system or should you read codes first?
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  #50  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:24 PM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
This post today may explain why about 10% of the people out there initially have problems with the diode setting on their DMM when running the 540iman quick test:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Domer1982 View Post
OK, I spent a little more time looking into this and I think I understand what's happening. A standard diode will pass current in the forward bias direction, but there will be a voltage drop of 0.5V-0.7V across the diode. In the opposite (reverse bias) direction, no current will pass through it so the voltage drop will be whatever voltage you apply to it.

My DMM (and I suspect many others) only generates a voltage of about 1.35V to test a diode. So when I use it to check a standard diode, I get 0.5V in the FB direction and 1.35V in the RB direction. This is correct.

In the case of the ABS sensors, the various forum posts indicate that there should be about 2V in the FB direction and "OL" in the RB direction. I'm not sure what OL means, but a RB diode should have a voltage reading that matches whatever source is applied, unless the voltage exceeds the breakdown threshold (which usually damages the diode).

Back to the expected reading of ~2V... That can only happen if there are 3 or 4 diodes in series (so the sum of the voltages across each diode adds up to ~2V) or if there is also a resistor in series with the diode, in which case the voltage will depend entirely upon how much current the DMM is pushing through the circuit (V = IR + ~0.7V). That current will very likely vary from one DMM to another, so it may not be correct to state that a reading of 2.0xxV is the only valid reading.

In either case, my DMM doesn't generate a voltage that is high enough to forward bias the diode (or diodes) so I'm getting 1.35V in both directions on all sensors.

The bottom line is that the DMM has to generate a test voltage that is well above the expected 2V reading or it won't work. So I'm going to try to get my hands on a DMM that can do this.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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