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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-14-2012, 10:18 AM
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Fudman Fudman is online now
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Door lock actuator issues

I am having front driver's door lock actuator issues.

Symptoms: Occasionally the front driver door lock will not lock down using the key remote (2-3 times per week). On even rarer occasions, it will not come up using the key remote (1 or 2 times per month). Initially this was mildly annoying but now is becoming a problem as I have walked away several times with my car unlocked.

My current fix: I simply unlock the doors and relock and it usually locks down. However, once or twice a month, I have to repeat this more than once to get it to lock down.

After searching these symptoms, it appears that my front door lock actuator is going. I could not find a DIY for this repair and will post one when I repair this issue. I may replace the actuator but was wondering if anyone has tried to fix this problem with lubrication of the actuator or the linkage? If yes, where exactly did you lubricate? And if you did use the lubrication approach, how long did this fix work for? I would rather not spend the money (~$100) on the replacement part unless it is really necessary.
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  #2  
Old 09-14-2012, 10:34 AM
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I am waiting for the pass front door lock actuator to arrive in the mail. Any time now.

Had similar issues with it. Be careful and DO NOT double lock the door. You might not be able to open it again if it fails totally. you will have to destroy the door panel in order to get to the actuator. My acuator worked intermittent for about 2 weeks, then gave up the ghost totally. I was in touch with a internet guru specialized on the door locks and the electronics involved. Give me a few hours until I'm home, and I can post some links. the page is somewhat obscore, but has some very interesting info concerning the door modules for diferent years.

Later
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  #3  
Old 09-14-2012, 11:11 AM
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Dking078 Dking078 is offline
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I tried spraying wd-40. No results. The actuator gave the same symptoms as you described. After the actuator was replaced all was well!

I didn't attempt doin it myself since my hands are huge, but indy said it was a PITA.
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Last edited by Dking078; 09-14-2012 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 09-14-2012, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
I am waiting for the pass front door lock actuator to arrive in the mail. Any time now.

Had similar issues with it. Be careful and DO NOT double lock the door. You might not be able to open it again if it fails totally. you will have to destroy the door panel in order to get to the actuator. My acuator worked intermittent for about 2 weeks, then gave up the ghost totally. I was in touch with a internet guru specialized on the door locks and the electronics involved. Give me a few hours until I'm home, and I can post some links. the page is somewhat obscore, but has some very interesting info concerning the door modules for diferent years.

Later
Thanx, Dorin. Are you gonna DIY? I have the TIS and Bentleys but haven't really looked into it yet. It looks like the clock is ticking and I need to order a new one right away.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:34 PM
mbell666 mbell666 is offline
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I am having similar issues with mine. A DIY on the replacement would be very much appreciated. I am guessing it is not that hard but a quite fiddly....
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
Thanx, Dorin. Are you gonna DIY? I have the TIS and Bentleys but haven't really looked into it yet. It looks like the clock is ticking and I need to order a new one right away.
I will give it a try. the door panel is not hard to remove. there are some electrical connections to take care of - door control buttons, memory buttons and door light (low at the sill). Then you will probably have to remove the speakers & airbag, then the vapor barrier.
I have no idea afterwards were the actuator is located and how it's connected. I guess I will see.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:26 PM
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Hello Fudman.
I'm back home now.

So somehow I was able to contact a fellow named Scott - very nice person, who repairs door modules. He has a website with detailed info.

We tried to diagnose over e-mail what issue I have with my door locks, and somehow we narrowed it down to the actuator. The doors are also driven by the General Module 3 (GM3), which is behind the glove box. Navigate through the link I posted above and check the GM3 - you will see.
Inside the passenger door there is another module called PM-FT (for driver door) and PM-BT (for Passenger door), which as Scott said, drives the stuff in the door.

As far the Bentley goes, the info is meager, there isn't much stuff in it. I was able to dig the torque value for the bolts that hold the door airbags: 8.5Nm. Bentley mentions the screws have to replaced, which I didn't order. I guess I will re-use the old ones. The door lock actuator was waiting for me in the mail, so I guess I will be in the garage for the next little while to try to figure a way on how to replace it.

The only resource I found is the Youtube video:

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Old 09-14-2012, 05:30 PM
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POof540i POof540i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dking078 View Post
I tried spraying wd-40. No results. The actuator gave the same symptoms as you described. After the actuator was replaced all was well!

I didn't attempt doin it myself since my hands are huge, but indy said it was a PITA.
Really?? That bites. My driver side actuator is acting up. I priced the actuator at about $65 bucks through Autohausaz. Changing the window regulator is a piece of cake. I was hoping the actuator would be easy too.

Edit: Looks like BMAparts has it for $50.
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Last edited by POof540i; 09-14-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Hello Fudman.
I'm back home now.

So somehow I was able to contact a fellow named Scott - very nice person, who repairs door modules. He has a website with detailed info.

We tried to diagnose over e-mail what issue I have with my door locks, and somehow we narrowed it down to the actuator. The doors are also driven by the General Module 3 (GM3), which is behind the glove box. Navigate through the link I posted above and check the GM3 - you will see.
Inside the passenger door there is another module called PM-FT (for driver door) and PM-BT (for Passenger door), which as Scott said, drives the stuff in the door.

As far the Bentley goes, the info is meager, there isn't much stuff in it. I was able to dig the torque value for the bolts that hold the door airbags: 8.5Nm. Bentley mentions the screws have to replaced, which I didn't order. I guess I will re-use the old ones. The door lock actuator was waiting for me in the mail, so I guess I will be in the garage for the next little while to try to figure a way on how to replace it.

The only resource I found is the Youtube video:

Thank, Dorin! It doesn't look exactly easy but it does appear doable. I need to order the part and then I'll give it a go. I'll keep everyone posted on my results.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
Thank, Dorin! It doesn't look exactly easy but it does appear doable. I need to order the part and then I'll give it a go. I'll keep everyone posted on my results.
I think I might try it tomorrow.
I know Igor had a rough time with it and gave up. An indy apparently did it for him. Loks like a frustrating job. We will see.
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Last edited by doru; 09-14-2012 at 09:26 PM.
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  #11  
Old 09-14-2012, 11:10 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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i saw this actuator and even can touch it but i gave up after 3H trying to remove it

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1313219

02 Actuator 2 67118352165 $101.80



GL with this job , if you will find the secret share it with us
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Last edited by champaign777; 09-15-2012 at 08:23 AM.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:26 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Originally Posted by mbell666 View Post
I am having similar issues with mine. A DIY on the replacement would be very much appreciated. I am guessing it is not that hard but a quite fiddly....
1996-98: no airbag
1999-2003 door airbag.

Whatever it is:
- d/c battery cable
- door panel off
- airbag module, speaker off
- vapor barrier off
- window glass should be UP.
- the key thing is to properly d/c the External Handle Cable ---> Actuator.

See this:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...56&postcount=3
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:50 AM
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I've checked for the part (67118352165) and VDO seems to be the OEM source. However, there seems to be two versions of the front door lock actuator, both made by VDO, available from bimmerpartswholesale.com for $66 & $49. The cheaper one looks a bit different from the $66 variant (maybe for the gas cap lock?). This makes me wary of the $50 version available from BMAparts, which is similarly priced although looks exactly like the higher priced ($65) variant from AutoHaus and Pelican. Given my previous dealings with both AutoHaus and Pelican, I may opt to pay the extra $15 for the $65 variant to avoid taking everything apart and then finding out I have the wrong part.

Bentleys is not very useful for actuator removal specifics. Cam's link to Agent99's experience is also helpful. The video Doru posted provides some good visual info to go forward with. I'll check the TIS next.
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Old 09-15-2012, 08:15 AM
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dont buy 50$ version

Autohuaze / pelicanparts have OE in 64$
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Last edited by champaign777; 09-15-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
I've checked for the part (67118352165) and VDO seems to be the OEM source. However, there seems to be two versions of the front door lock actuator, both made by VDO, available from bimmerpartswholesale.com for $66 & $49. The cheaper one looks a bit different from the $66 variant (maybe for the gas cap lock?). This makes me wary of the $50 version available from BMAparts, which is similarly priced although looks exactly like the higher priced ($65) variant from AutoHaus and Pelican. Given my previous dealings with both AutoHaus and Pelican, I may opt to pay the extra $15 for the $65 variant to avoid taking everything apart and then finding out I have the wrong part.

Bentleys is not very useful for actuator removal specifics. Cam's link to Agent99's experience is also helpful. The video Doru posted provides some good visual info to go forward with. I'll check the TIS next.
The $49 dollar actuator looks like the fuel door actuator. Maybe they misnamed it.
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:23 AM
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I printed the TIS insrtuctions for removing and installing the front door locks for a 2002 E39 salon. There is no specific mention of the door lock actuators anywhere. To find these instructions, you need to go to:
Document
Repair Instructions
51 Body Equipment
21 Front Door Locks

Interstingly, it does not require loosening of the window rails, like the video. And I am guessing that the door lock actuator is a part of the door locking unit? I'll find out soon...
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:55 PM
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I looked up different DIY's for this issue, and then looked up the realoem diagram. I thought the difficult part is that you don't really see where one of the cables connect. There are 2 different cables that are connected there. There is also the issue of taking the unit out in a specific manner.
So I chickened out and went to my indy, who did the job for me. I supplied the part. Issue solved.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:21 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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sometimes better pay to experts
congrat
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Last edited by champaign777; 09-18-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 09-18-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by champaign777 View Post
sometimes better pay to experts
congrat
Agreed, but at the same time I have remorse for not even trying to do it. What man made, can be also un-made. If I had the whole Sunday at my disposal, I might have given it a try. My "free" time turned up to be after 4 pm, which made me think "what if something does not line up properly, and I can't drive to work in the morning?"
As I said: I chickened out. Oh well, the door lock works now how it should, and I took off the stupid self-locking "feature" I had since I purchased the car. Maybe it sped up the process of the actuator deteriorating?
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:07 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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this thing can break easily , this why I chickened out
but as you said this doesn't mean that it cant be done
lets see if Fudman able to do it or not hehe

BTW self-locking "feature" is a car settings
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Last edited by champaign777; 09-18-2012 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:57 PM
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Self-locking feature was on my car since its inception: March 2003 until yesterday. September 2012. Put up too long with this sh*t. De-programmed. Both keys.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:12 AM
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I got the replacement actuator. I went with BMA and the replacement looks exactly like the original and came in a VDO box, so I hope I saved the $15 without a problem.

Found a guy on Roadfly who wrote a DIY but he lost his file so I will wing it on the DIY. I'll do a write-up.

In the same shoes as Doru. I want to leave a full day for this job, just in case. But I go down to the Cape this weekend so it may take a couple of weeks. We shall see.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:22 AM
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Even my indy had it wrong the first try. And he does this repair very frequent. Everything worked, except the outside handle. Had to bring the car back, and he fixed it then.

the issue I could see, is the fact that one cannot see a darn thing inside the door, where you have to release the cables and re-install after the repair. And this has to be done with the door locking mechanism almost in place. You have very little wiggle room (assuming you placed it correctly). Then, once in place, you have to make sure that none of the cables did let go. There are 3 things that have to sit correctly: cable that goes to the inside pull lever. Cable that goes to the outside door handle. Rod that has the lock/unlock button on top - inside of the car.
Whole assembly has to be installed in the correct position for the lock to latch properly, otherwise some minor adjustments are needed.
Ideally you want to check this out with the panel off, the problem is you have the airbag in the door. If you have a scanner that can reset airbag codes, it's no problem, you can do it. If not, you have to install the airbag and replace the battery and start trial & error until the door latches properly (taking off & on the airbag as required).

You could get lucky from the 1st try - the outside screws leave marks. Not sure how big the wiggle room is in the holes of the door lock itself that's behind the screws? That one holds the locking mechanism to the door striker. And that one has to be centred.
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Old 09-19-2012, 12:41 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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i think my indy has some special tool to access door latches ...
not sure but when i asked he said i know you are DIY guy so please leave me some room to make money , i cant tell you all my secrets
good guy
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:21 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Most people don't replace door lock actuator everyday and make the mistake above, thinking it is very difficult.
It is not.

It does not matter what car you fix, once the battery disconnected, vapor barrier off.....
Sit back and relax, get a good flashlight and inspection mirror and look inside to study the anatomy.
Think as an engineer: if you were to design the car, how do you want to hook the external door handle to the actuator etc. etc.
Once you get through this step, the rest is easy, just make note of how things are assembled and you are golden.

Wait until you replace the same thing (lock actuator), on a 2003 Mercedes E320, this makes the E39 look easy!

PS: Have you guys look at TIS?

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e39/
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