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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993. |
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#1
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Battery drained?
Last week I was driving my 89 325I to work when the headlights and the instrument panel lights started to go dim, then a few blocks down the car dies, i took the battery in to be tested and it was dead, so I had the battery charged and it tested good, I pulled the alternator out and it tested good as well, where should I start looking to find the source of the charging issue?
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#2
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I was having similar problems with my 540i and tracked it down to my FSU sensor. My sampling fan for the climate control was not turning off and draining my battery down. I ordered one from BMW and installed it and my charging problems were no longer an issue.
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#3
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With a DMM and ALL systems off (including boot and interior lights, radio and clock) set up and read battery drain current (if there is any). The charging problem could be a bad terminal related to battery charging. A bad terminal can be 'seen' by the alternator as a fully charged battery. Double check and clean all connections. then check charging voltage and current.
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#4
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certainly will be an issue between or inclusive of the battery and alternator. No E30 curcuit would drain a battery faster than your alternator can charge the car. But i would lean towards the alternator being dodgy, as an E30 will run off just the alternator with no battery installed (i have driven E30s i plan to wreck back from picking them up to my house with no battery installed, just a crash start or jump start), which reflexively means that if the battery was stuffed, the car would not have died while driving. Who tested your alternator?
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#5
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The alternator and battery were both tested at autozone
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#6
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When it died on the highway an officer gave mine a rolling start and it ran as long as the rpms were kept on the high side down to the gas station but the whole way there my headlights were dead and my guages were barely lit up
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#7
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Sounds like a main feed or earth to the whole vehicle. CAREFULLY check major connections. Even if they look good!!! Clean and tighten the terminals and check where the wire goes in, and next to, the crimp(s).
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
Last edited by BMWFatherFigure; 09-13-2012 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Add data |
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#8
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either a bad/loose ground or the alternator is about to crap out
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I know a lot about cars. I can look at a car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming |
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Quote:
there is no generator on an e30. its an alternator. and yes you can start/run a car with a dead battery by crash start. we've done it multiple times with different vehicles, but mainly jeeps.also i was thinking some more, how does the car run without the headlights on? seem to charge ok?
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I know a lot about cars. I can look at a car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming |
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#11
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Quote:
If you were able to start it through a push, it means your battery still had some juice left in it. Maybe even a miniscule amount, not enough to start ignition or run accessories, but enough to get the alternator going. Last edited by Bandem; 09-13-2012 at 08:25 PM. |
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#12
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Even with the headlights off that next day when i checked the battery they said it was at 85% charge, so i put it in and drove it about a mile down to autozone to check the alternator and was told the battery was reading at 60% so they couldnt test it then
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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You need a small current to excite the alternator but current and voltage that will increase with rotation speed. Push car ONLY replaces starter motor. Running without a battery can blow diodes but it does keep running - for a time. If your battery went from 85 to 60% it is not being charged by the car. Back to checking leads, terminals and connections.
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#15
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Don't you have Autoelectricians where you live
All you do is connect a serious Amp meter between Positive & terminal, then pull that terminal from the Battery and see the charging or discharging current. In Africa, any genuine place that sells you Automotive Batteries will check that, as well as Electrolyte and load test on the battery. Normaly they will not even charge you (pun intended), if you do not stand around wasting their time THEN you eliminate what is wrong ![]() Battery- OK Alternator OK Not charging- lookie look for problem Draining battery with ingnition off- boot light or similar being on when it should not
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#16
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Thanks for the responses, once this rain clears up here I'll start checking connections and get back with you all
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#17
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Well it turned out the alternator was going bad, i ended up taking it to my mechanic for a second opinion and he said it was failing under load, so I replace the alternator and it seems to be running fine now with the exception of the idle which is a little choppy and whenever i rev it up a little and let off the gas the engine nearly dies and then the rpms jump back up to around 500, is it possible i messed up zomething when i reinstalled the air box and air flow meter?
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#18
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Quote:
Now, in the old days, cars used to have generators, which produced Direct Current. If you have a generator, you don't need a battery to start it, you can push start, or use cranks on front of the car like old cars did. A generator has a permanent magnetic field and converts mechanical energy (from your flywheel) into electrical energy at any time. New cars use alternators and alternators produce alternating current which is then rectifyed into direct current and uses your battery as a filter (which is also why jump starting without a battery can damage your ECU), but they need a source of current to start the magnetic field before doing so. Thats why, if you have no battery or no electrical source of outside power, push starting a car with an alternator is not possible. Often times people will claim they can with a dead battery, but the battery isn't actually dead. They think the battery is dead, because the ignition isn't working, but in reality its enough to excited the magnetic fields of the alternator and go. So to answer your question, part of your battery power is for the starter, and a small part is for the alternator. Last edited by Bandem; 09-14-2012 at 01:19 PM. |
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#19
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goat88 - Check CAREFULLY for leaks/damaged hoses on EVERYTHING you disconnected or 'moved'. Older car hoses crack or split very easily..
__________________
Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two. Current: E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman. Previous: E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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#20
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Well I checked the vacuum hoses for leaks without any luck and i honestly couldnt hear a leak either, most of the hoses look fairly new, i did retighten the hose attached to the icv after cleaning it out and that seemed to smooth out the idle some but the issue im still stuck on is when i start the car it will fire up like normal but as the rpms slow down to idle it eother seems to struggle with staying running or it dies, it also dies when im driving and i stop at a light when it would normally go down to idle it dies then too
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#21
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Quote:
an alternator uses magnetic fields to create power. you dont need power to go through the windings to create electricity, you just need to spin the rotor fast enough to create the power. i havnt tried crash starting to many new cars all because most of the are automatic and i dont own new cars. the only vehicals i have crash started were late 70s early 80s, and mainly jeeps, which the only real electrical to the vehical was the stereo and lights. Quote:
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I know a lot about cars. I can look at a car's headlights and tell you exactly which way it's coming |
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#22
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Downhiller, I agree with you 99% of the time, but on this you are dead wrong. You can spin an alternator as fast as you want, but until there's excitation voltage it will generate nothing. An alternator has no magnetic field without excitation voltage. No magnetic field= no electrical generation. Generators had permanent magnets and didn't need electrical current to start producing electricity, but alternators absolutely MUST have a magnetic field created by electricity in the windings before they'll do anything at all.
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Quotes to live by: guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13 Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, Honorary Forum Grandpa/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff BMW-CCA #441426 1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia" I NEED A NAP, DANG IT! |
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#23
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Quote:
Quote:
With that said, and my understanding of electronics and past exercises, you are both right. You cannot crash start a car that doesn't have a battery in it. no battery is ever 100% dead, even when shorted out. what you can do however is disconnect the battery once the car is started and it will continue to run. by the way, when i say car, i mean an E30. other cars may be different.
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#24
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Wikipedia has a nice entry on alternators which includes a cool animation with rotating magnetic field vectors.
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#25
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From what ive gathered from various scources an alternator can self excite, when spun above a certain rpm range
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