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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2008, 08:46 PM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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99 740iL - Fault code P0011

On my 740 I just got a code for P0011 cam actuator sensor - bank 1 over advance timing.

Is that referring the cam position sensor on the driver side (if I'm standing in front of the car/facing the car)? Do I just need to replace the senor itself or is it something more serious?

Thanks in advance!!
~Ken
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2008, 08:50 PM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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So bank 1 is driver side. I've replaced the VANOS solenoid and cam position sensor and no help. I still get the OBDII code p0011 and BMW DTC fault code 33. Any ideas? DTC fault code refers to either bank 1 cam actuator and/or cam timing over-advanced and/or cam timing over retard. OBDII code p0011 is timing over-advanced. This is the only fault code I get. I know it has to due with the DME requesting cam position change and by the cam position sensor, it's not seeing the change and throws the SES light on. Again, so far I've replaced the VANOS solenoid and cam position sensor and no help. Anything else I'm missing here??? I've hit a wall.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2008, 10:53 PM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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anyone?
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2008, 12:41 PM
mandrews1119 mandrews1119 is offline
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If you have done your replacement correctly, then the problem may be in the wiring, or the timing chain itself, or it may actually be the cam shaft a little out of line.(Admittedly - that is NOT the general case, and I'm sure you don't drive wide open throttle all the time!) Of these the wiring would be the bear to deal with. Have you checked the sensor contacts themselves? They may be corroded or dirty and be the cause of the whole thing. That would be a delight! Check it and clean or replace and see what happens. Often we just replace the sensor and NEVER look at the contacts, at least I have!
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  #5  
Old 11-04-2008, 01:31 PM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrews1119 View Post
If you have done your replacement correctly, then the problem may be in the wiring, or the timing chain itself, or it may actually be the cam shaft a little out of line.(Admittedly - that is NOT the general case, and I'm sure you don't drive wide open throttle all the time!) Of these the wiring would be the bear to deal with. Have you checked the sensor contacts themselves? They may be corroded or dirty and be the cause of the whole thing. That would be a delight! Check it and clean or replace and see what happens. Often we just replace the sensor and NEVER look at the contacts, at least I have!
I took it in to the shop, a BMW specific only independent shop, and they've checked all sensors, wiring, and everything is in order. After they reset the light, they were not able to get the light to come back on throwing that specific code. Basically they couldn't replicate the condition where it would bring the light on immediately. However, after the 2nd drive cycle, it would come back on.

I'm not sure if they actually have the GT1, but they did have the car connected to a computer where they buy time from BMW to have the car diagnosed and saw the VANOS working on bank 1 and 2, but something would kick on and bank 1 would shut off. They thought it might have been temperature related as it seemed to happen around 94 degrees Fahrenheit. Interesting thing is, they couldn't check timing because the computer they used didn't support it. which I thought was odd.

Again, this is the ONLY code I get, OBDII p0011/DTC fault 33. No other codes. At this point, they've advised me to go the dealer.

Is there any way I can check timing myself or...? In terms of the car, it runs fine. I think the idle can be a little smoother. Power seems to be there. Doesn't lag or bog when you're at WOT.
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  #6  
Old 11-04-2008, 02:00 PM
mandrews1119 mandrews1119 is offline
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Okay, let's dig in here. If your guys are saying this happens at 94 degrees, then is the heat or current making this happen at 94? If so, I am still saying wiring, or some electrical load (somewhere) at that temp. If you have replaced and checked the whole system and this happens "under load" as the electricians say, is this problem sensors, wires, or something mechanical? At some point - you were going to have to go to the dealer, and for this problem, I wouldn't consider that a BAD thing. An expensive thing, perhaps, but peace of mind and a proper repair...priceless!! The only problem with the dealer is they tend to think systems instead of spot fixing something. Ask the Service Manager (once you've found the problem) for more than one way to resolve this, hoping there is a way that won't call for too expansive a job. If it is wiring, they may or may NOT be a way to isolate the culprit, (you guys more technical than I please jump in). If you replaced all of those components, did it cycle itself enough to reset the codes?Sometimes that is what is needed even if you do a reset with the machine, the computer sees things in order and still sees the problem, not the repair. I'd love that to be the issue; you properly repaired it and the computer just needed to cycle enough times to "see" the fix. Let us hope...
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  #7  
Old 11-04-2008, 02:04 PM
mandrews1119 mandrews1119 is offline
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Hmm... timing over advanced. Have you checked and cleaned the coils? If something is wrong there, the car may be trying to compensate for conditions it is feeling. Just a thought because this is racking my brain too.!
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2001 BMW E38/750il V12
Anthracite Metallic: If this car were any faster, I would have arrived yesterday!!
BMW, the ONLY driving machine.! By the way, yes, it's fast...and NO! You can't drive it!! Power, elegance, styling, technology that is still cutting edge, the ultimate driving machine for sure.!
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  #8  
Old 11-10-2008, 09:38 AM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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Took it in the dealership today. He checked out the car and the GT1 led him to the throttle body. We will check out the throttle body next week. The throttle worked for the most part, but when he checked the throttle potentiometer, it was out of spec. Need to be at 0 and it wouldn't settle to 0, just stayed at 1.96.

Because the throttle isn't at 0, extra air is seeping through and bank 1 seems to getting the air. From read outs of the GT1, bank 1 is over advanced and bank 2 is trying to compensate, at least thats my understanding as it was being explained to me.

Doing more research online as to what is the throttle potentiometer (I didn't know), it's basically the throttle position sensor.
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  #9  
Old 11-11-2008, 07:25 AM
mandrews1119 mandrews1119 is offline
E38 - Flight on 4 wheels!
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Is the TPS bad? Is the sensor shot, or need cleaning? If the sensor itself is at fault, bad readings will make the car try to compensate. I'm sure that is where your mechanic is going. At least worth a look-see.
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2001 BMW E38/750il V12
Anthracite Metallic: If this car were any faster, I would have arrived yesterday!!
BMW, the ONLY driving machine.! By the way, yes, it's fast...and NO! You can't drive it!! Power, elegance, styling, technology that is still cutting edge, the ultimate driving machine for sure.!
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2008, 02:16 AM
dazednkenfused dazednkenfused is offline
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UPDATE: We plugged another throttle body today and found my old one to be good. Upon looking at the live data again, both cams are within spec, meaning during idle they both matched. We ran a diagnostic on the GT1 and found further that bank 1 adaptive was not working; meaning the DME couldn't get a good reading from the CPS on bank 1. This is now leading us to the impulse sending wheel that goes in front of the cam wheel. The valve cover gaskets were changed on both bank 1 and bank 2 and we believe during that process, bank 1 is such a tight fit, the valve cover might have hit impulse sending wheel and perhaps bent it so the CPS is not getting a good reading. That's the theory at least. Tomorrow if we have time, we will continue and take apart the valve cover and have a look. Luckily, if I'm looking at realoem.com correctly, that piece is only 10.83.
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  #11  
Old 11-17-2008, 06:37 AM
mandrews1119 mandrews1119 is offline
E38 - Flight on 4 wheels!
Location: Atlanta, GA., USA.
 
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Wow! How much is all this disassembling running if I may ask. PM me if you don't want to make the number public, but I'm curious. That is some MAJOR disassembling there, thank goodness you have someone who REALLY knows the car.! It sounds like you are in at least 10-12 labor hours, alone; plus diagnostic time.
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2001 BMW E38/750il V12
Anthracite Metallic: If this car were any faster, I would have arrived yesterday!!
BMW, the ONLY driving machine.! By the way, yes, it's fast...and NO! You can't drive it!! Power, elegance, styling, technology that is still cutting edge, the ultimate driving machine for sure.!
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  #12  
Old 12-07-2008, 12:03 PM
supark supark is offline
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were you able to resolved this?
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  #13  
Old 07-01-2009, 11:31 AM
Black99740iL Black99740iL is offline
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P0011

I read most posts about the problem associated with that code and have the idea of what's happening but my problem is a bit different and didn't see any mention of a noise from the engine when having this code appear. My experience was having rough idle 2 days ago and check engine came on with P0011, then at the same time I got rattling sound from the engine like the chain is loose. So I took right(passenger) side valve cover off to check and noticed gap 2-3 mm between tensioner and chain when moving it with screwdriver, my other M62 that I have is very tight so I figured that tensioner solenoid was bad so I replaced that but it didn't change anything. People here recommend replacing VANOS solenoid, but my question is would it take care of rattle in any way? Doesn't make sense to me.

Did anyone have same issue before?
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  #14  
Old 07-01-2009, 11:39 AM
Black99740iL Black99740iL is offline
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Someone said something about camchain slipping, how to prevent it from happening? I think mine is about to do exactly that.
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  #15  
Old 07-02-2009, 09:43 AM
balance balance is offline
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Might be a little late but bank 1 is on the passenger side on these cars.
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  #16  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:50 AM
BMWED79 BMWED79 is offline
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P0011

Any resolution of the problem???????
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazednkenfused View Post
UPDATE: We plugged another throttle body today and found my old one to be good. Upon looking at the live data again, both cams are within spec, meaning during idle they both matched. We ran a diagnostic on the GT1 and found further that bank 1 adaptive was not working; meaning the DME couldn't get a good reading from the CPS on bank 1. This is now leading us to the impulse sending wheel that goes in front of the cam wheel. The valve cover gaskets were changed on both bank 1 and bank 2 and we believe during that process, bank 1 is such a tight fit, the valve cover might have hit impulse sending wheel and perhaps bent it so the CPS is not getting a good reading. That's the theory at least. Tomorrow if we have time, we will continue and take apart the valve cover and have a look. Luckily, if I'm looking at realoem.com correctly, that piece is only 10.83.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:51 AM
BMWED79 BMWED79 is offline
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P0011

Any resolution of the problem????? We have an Identicle situation!!!
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  #18  
Old 12-28-2011, 03:43 PM
dchief305 dchief305 is offline
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About bank 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by dazednkenfused View Post
On my 740 I just got a code for P0011 cam actuator sensor - bank 1 over advance timing.

Is that referring the cam position sensor on the driver side (if I'm standing in front of the car/facing the car)? Do I just need to replace the senor itself or is it something more serious?

Thanks in advance!!
~Ken
The bank 1 is the one located on your left hand side, where the pistons 1 to 4...are located.
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2012, 04:50 AM
ohio2002 ohio2002 is offline
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Answer to the problem!

hey guys! the answer to fix your car with the faults that keep coming back is that the engine timing needs to be set. this involves removal of the upper timing covers. so it is an involved process. I would recommend taking it to the dealer and asking them to do it, as they will have all the proper tools to do it. GOOD LUCK and HAPPY DRIVING!
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2014, 11:05 PM
Dammerung Dammerung is offline
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Same problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by Black99740iL View Post
I read most posts about the problem associated with that code and have the idea of what's happening but my problem is a bit different and didn't see any mention of a noise from the engine when having this code appear. My experience was having rough idle 2 days ago and check engine came on with P0011, then at the same time I got rattling sound from the engine like the chain is loose. So I took right(passenger) side valve cover off to check and noticed gap 2-3 mm between tensioner and chain when moving it with screwdriver, my other M62 that I have is very tight so I figured that tensioner solenoid was bad so I replaced that but it didn't change anything. People here recommend replacing VANOS solenoid, but my question is would it take care of rattle in any way? Doesn't make sense to me.

Did anyone have same issue before?
Hey wondering if you figured anything out for this.
99 740iL

did an oil change. I bit overfilled. Next day weird noise you talk about and check engine. P0011 code. Weird noise comes once the engine is warmed up. totally lost. My car only has 100K miles :S

Im not sure if too much oil would cause this but i dont know much about it.
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  #21  
Old 09-27-2014, 12:15 PM
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FABOCH FABOCH is offline
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in your case with only 100k miles...Noise and P0011 code? your chain has skipped a tooth...Bank 1 over advanced...You`ll need to replace your timing guides and have timing done...
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2014, 10:53 PM
tomloans tomloans is offline
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Mr dazed unfortunately u will need to replace guides and the timing chain... That code is usually the kiss of death.... It was for me and just about every one here on this board... This is one time event and will last u another 100k miles +- while u have the engine open have your mechanic change Vanos seals, water pump, etc.. I can give u a list so that u take care of everything all at once. This will be a very costly event buy will last a long time for u. Drop your oil pan to see if u have broken guides on the bottom first...

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  #23  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:16 PM
tomloans tomloans is offline
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Incidentally there is lot on this issue on these boards... Just run a search p0011

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