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Forced Induction
Aftermarket superchargers & turbos as well as tuning for stock BMW turbos (N54 motor - 135i / 335i / 535i). Force-fed discussion to make your car go faster

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Old 08-14-2012, 02:13 PM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
E46 330Ci ZHP Turbo Project

Surprised I never posted here.

The ZHPs

Drew up a schematic specific to MS45 cars
Dastek has a schematic that it states it is for MS45 car (330Ci, 3.0L) but it is just based on MS43 wiring. I went out and got some info from Tony W. and got all the info needed to make a final schematic for basic engine controls like fuel and timing.

MS45 cars from 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

MS45 cars from 9/2002 to 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

Updated 8/4/2012


Car update
Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol



Another update
Been working on this for a long time adding to it and taking away. But this one is pretty close to almost what it should be for a non turbo to turbo M54B30 set up.

From my site:

I have been working on this for some time now looking over all aspects of how the components on the car works, looking at wiring schematics and component flow and so far this is what I have on Turbocharging the M54 successfully with little to no check engine lights and decent fuel trims. Also making sure some components are not pressurized under boost. In the Diagram we also changed/deleted the OEM CCV system to a more simplified DIY Air & Oil Separator using fast acting check valves.

The wires to the MAF will need to be extended.

The 2 Vacuum hoses that went to the “F” connector on the original OEM intake boot are now on the vacuum block. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator has an inline check valve so it does not see pressure and fuel pressure stays static.
The wastegate is ran off the vacuum block, do this if you have a low pressure wastegate spring under 9psi. This way you will not need to spend money on a boost controller.

The By-pass valve is also run off the vacuum block. DO NOT in any case vent the metered air into atmosphere, the car will bog, stall during shifts due to the rich condition when venting metered air out of the closed system. DO NOT use a Blow Off Valve.

On my diagram you see that I use a high flow catalytic converter, this is to keep things clean and keep the post cat Oxygen sensors happy and we comply with local / Federal laws. The cat is on 2 V-Bands so it is removable.

My wastegate is venting to atmosphere, back pressure is less and usually you get more efficiency this way out of the external gate. If you want it back into the exhaust, route it so the tube going back into the exhaust is at an angle and not “Teed” into it.
The fuel tank breather valve, also known as the purge valve needs a check valve so we don’t send pressure to it. It needs to be under vacuum to pull fumes out of the tank not pressure.

This Diagram will change as I find more efficient ways to make things work. But this is the starting point of going turbo on a non turbo car.
The Air & Oil separator is a basic $30 ebay catch can which I will show you how to modify so it works correctly.


Also, the car has single use stretch head bolts. Head bolts tighten the head down by turning into the threads of the block then you "stretch the bolt" with a few extra turns to arrive at the desired torque for those bolts to clamp down. Those are fine for any car that is factory but on a boosted application where you jack up cylinder pressures under boost you do not want the clamping for to be at the block threads as they may pull out if and when the head lifts.

What you may want to do is get head stud/washer nut combo. The studs hand tighten into the threads of the block (must go all the way down to use all the threads available). A washer and nut is placed up top on the stud and the clamping force comes from the top of the aftermarket head stud relieving the threads on the block from stripping. Many factory cars that are turbo do come with head studs not bolts, the cars that are turbo with head bolts do have issues like many SAABs suffering from stretched bolts from the pressure, head lifts a bit and oil starts to come out from between the block and head. Those cars have an Iron block and aluminum head. Aluminum blocks or not head "bolts" are usually prone to issues when asked more of them (higher cylinder pressures from turbo, supercharging, nitrous oxide use).

Using the block threads as the clamping force is a no no. Also using "stretch" bolts are a no no. The extra turns in torque procedures is the Stretching portion of the procedure. This makes them type of head bolts a one time use set.


This is the Ebay catch can, Air/Oil Separator set up I came up with to get rid of the OEM Crank Case Ventilation set up that fails.
I started out with a catch can from ebay. I chose a round unit anodized in black.

It had to have removable top and bottom so it can be modified.

I got mine from I’LoveILtacotaco ebay store.

It is $29.99 shipped and in black. They do have other color choices too.

The can itself is 3.125” in diameter x 5.750” tall. This is just the perfect size for what we are trying to accomplish here!
There are only (2) 3/8” NPT ports but I wanted to add another for a -10an to ½” NPT fitting.
To do so I needed a ¾” Drill bit which I had and a ½” NPT tap bit.
First I centered punched where I wanted the fitting
Next I used a small drill bit to start a pilot hole; afterwards I used a ¾” drill bit.

I still need to make the internal baffling and chamber separator, I will post that when I get to it.

On a Forced Induction car it is critical that we have vacuum in the crank case at all time and not pressurize it with boost. Engine will not survive long if you don't.

If you take a look at my diagram on the above post you will see that I am following it pretty much as I designed it.

This is what the set up looks like.

You have seen it everywhere lately, show cars, performance cars, at the race tracks. Gearheads are using Vacuum manifold blocks and Push-to-connect fittings with Nylon tubing. Pretty much the Nylon will last forever, it takes well to heat and pressure.

It doesn’t bubble/expand out like rubber and unlike your local auto parts store it can be had really cheap!

I searched a few places for my own lines for my project and found that http://www.automationdirect.com had really good prices on the Black Nylon lines.

On the site they have it for $17.00/100ft roll. That ends up being 17 cents…yes you read it right, 17 cents per foot! you will have enough to even make a Meth kit with it.

Automation Direct also has the Push-to-connect fittings in packs of 5 for cheap! The 5 pack costs $4.75 for smooth round 1/4***8243; Male fittings. That comes out to be 95 cents each. Compare to other places selling at $3.49+ for each fitting.


1/4***8243; O.D. Hose to 1/8***8243; NPT Threads

1/4***8243; Nylon Hose for use as Vacuum/Pressure lines

Here are a few Vacuum Manifolds you can get for under $25:

Northern Tool and Equipment

AeroDesigns JP – EBAY

Mettle Air – EBAY store


Vanos rebuild was done
Here are a few pics when I rebuilt my Vanos. The rest of the pictures are in here

They should be in order from left to right. these where in addition to the Beisan kit instructions.



OEM Spacer with 129k miles on it.

Beisan machined spacer


More new items arrived
Here are a few new items...





Turbo coolant lines Diagram
Since the Comp Turbo I have has water lines only for cooling the center cartridge we need to tap into the cars cooling system or build its own cooling system. I chose to use the cars existing cooling system.

This is the Coolant Radiator Hose Adapter:

Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Block port on the passengers side, it uses a M14 x 1.5 fitting to -6 an:

Block Coolant Drain plug is found here:

Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Heater Core Line going to the Coolant Expansion Tank, Treadstone sells the fitting for this:

Here is the Heater Hose Tee fitting from Treadstone Performance:


Vacuum Block with Push-to-connect fittings
I finally got around to taking a pic of the Vacuum Block.

It has the 5 push-to-connect fittings for the nylon tubing and one for rubber hose. Also you can see the push-to-connect plugs for unused ports.


Unichip Wiring DIY

I finally wired up the Unichip for NA use.
Here is the quick lowdown:


I have 2 reports today, well after I installed the Unichip I wanted to see if I can tune out that nasty chug chug chug the car does between 2400 - 3000 rpms and low and behold with a tweak here and there on the mapping it is gone. That is good news to me.

Now Report numero dos.
For those that haven't been keeping up with my threads, I have had bought stuff from Khalid mamood before for my Z cars. well I contracted him to copy the oem seat covers and make them in Alcantara, black leather and red leather. Then I went with the diamond pattern.

Here is a photoshop I did as a concept:

Here is a sneak peek at the actual custom designed by me seat cover:

These are the colors I chose:

Unichip in the car

Here is the Unichip Installed:


I finished the Catch can internals Yesterday.

Basically I reamed out the -10 an fitting on the catch can lid, I made it 5/8" I.D. so it accepted the 5/8" O.D. tube I bought from omnimodels.
That tube I brazed on with an aluminum brazing rod.

Then I got some aluminum flashing from home depot, cut it into 2 circles that would fit in the catch can. I also perforated them. I measured and cut holes in the perforated circles so the 5/8" tube can pass through. Some JB Weld was used to hold the bottom perforated circle in the catch can. Stainless Steel Scouring wool was used as a filter media.


I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.

I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:


Crappy cell pic
Decided it was nice enough and had time enough to fit this monster intercooler out front of the OEM ZHP bumper cover. And the new sibling.

Inter cooler has 3" in/out, core is 22" w x 12" high x 3.5" deep. Total width is 30"
I had to modify the 5mph aluminum bumper, Some cutting and grinding so I can sit it about 2" higher and 1.5" further back up top.


Intercooler shot with cover on before paint.


I bought a 3" Varex Muffler with Twin tips from MAP, I think they are the only ones selling these online as they come all the way from Australia and are hard to get here.


Stock dyno

That was with 93 octane gas from Hess, car had 110k miles on odometer.
Car was 100% stock. This was so I have my baseline to go by on further mods.

this is the sheet of the 2nd pull...


Engine mount
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Old 09-22-2012, 10:28 PM
positiveions positiveions is offline
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wow, sound like you have a good project on your hands.
I used to own a ZHP, and was always wondering about the potential of that motor with a forced induction
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:41 PM
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Fast Bob Fast Bob is offline
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Awesome post, you obviously put a LOT of time and effort into this. Thanks for sharing. I`m going to link this to the E46 Forum, lotsa gearheads and ZHP owners over there who will enjoy reading this.

Keep up the good work !

P.S.: Stop by the E46 Forum and say Hello....
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Last edited by Fast Bob; 10-08-2012 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:44 PM
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MalibuMafiaV MalibuMafiaV is offline
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Very nice!. I love seeing home made FI kits. I also took on a similar project with mine when I decided I needed MORE POWER! lol. Got any videos of it? I'd love to hear it in action.
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:23 AM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
RTABS, AKG Steering coupler and C Pillar covering

I got busy replacing the Rear tension arm bushings (thanks Chad for the tool use) with Rogue engineering black polyurethane versions on 9/6/2012.

Also did the AKG steering coupler, the polyurethane version. steering is much tighter and way less tramlining with the wider tires.

Here are some pics:

Using a 2 ton puller because my coupler was stuck on good!

Why it was stuck on!

Coupler on with AKG polyurethane part!

__________________________________________________ _____________

C Pillar covering

After a few months of owning my car back in 2010 the C Pillar trim fabric was sagging so back then I decided to use 3M 90 Super adhesive to tack it back up. It worked great since then up until November 2012 when it started to sag along with the B Pillar and a corner of the front A pillar trim fabric.

The past few days I decided to reupholster them with new fabric.
Well, the problem is what fabric to buy and what do I want for the look. Having done a few stereo installs through out the years I have used different fabrics from Hancock Fabric store and Jo-Ann fabrics. The issue with using them is that if you do not use a UV protection agent like scotchguard the fabric will fade.

That turned me to buying a yard of Carbon Fiber cloth and 2 yards of Mellotone Speaker grill fabric. The Carbon Fabric cloth I bought from Ebay for $22 for a linear yard. The Mellotone Speaker grill fabric I bought from Parts Express, that runs at $24.50 per linear yard.

I just got those 2 items in and went ahead with reupholstering my C pillars since I have them out already.
Now, i didn’t go with the carbon Fiber cloth for this install because it is very thin and the OEM felt surface was very uneven so it wouldn’t be very smooth looking. I settled on the Mellotone…

On my install I went and bought 2 different spray adhesives that have worked for me in the past. The first one is the Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive which you can buy at Advance Auto parts. The second is the ForceField Headliner Trim and Laminating Adhesive in Professional Strength.

Next thing I did was strip off the OEM BMW fabric from the C Pillar covers.

Now this is the trick i use so the fabric sticks on. I bet you have tried time and time again to re-glue yours and they fall or sag after a few days or a few months. I did mine real quick back in 2010 and had started to sag 2 years later but that was using the 3M adhesive. Ok, back to my trick.. What I do if the Pillar covers have the felt on them is that I saturate them with the adhesive then let that cure. I then give it another coat and let that cure some. What this does is that it “rubberizes” the felt surface and this allows the final coat of adhesive be fully functional when it cures.

For the fabric you want to use the Forcefield Adhesive on the back side. Make sure you are a good distance away when spraying the adhesive, like 12"- 14" or so away from the fabric. I let mine set in for about 3-4 minutes and you start seeing that the adhesive is curing some and looks and feels tacky/rubberized. DO NOT INSTALL THE FABRIC WITH WET ADHESIVE, you will have seep through. even though the Mellotone is thick it can seep through.

Now with both sides tacky/rubbery pull the fabric on top of the part working it in and making sure the fabric does not wrinkle or the front side touches the pillar cover. I tend to use my thumb or my palm to work the fabric on the surface. this is where having the semi cured surface comes into play as this is the part where you will make the adhesive seep through if it isn’t cured enough. I made sure I had extra fabric so I could wrap the fabric around the back. I also used the ForceField adhesive for tacking the fabric to the back. I just sprayed some adhesive on the news paper and with one finger grabbed some and spread it on the back of the areas on the C Pillar cover where the fabric would cover.

On the picture you can see how it looks with 2 coats of Permatex and a final coat of ForceField adhesives. The ForceField adhesive has a nice spray pattern and lays down smooth as long as you have a steady hand.

Here are the OEM fabric, Carbon Fiber fabric and the Mellotone speaker grill fabric.

Here is the OEM fabric on the C Pillar:

Here is the Carbon Fiber fabric on the C Pillar:

Here is the Mellotone and what I chose for my project:

And a few shots of the finished product:
Ok, So this is project C Pillars done, next are B and C Pillars.

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Old 01-08-2013, 08:36 PM
Jesse M Jesse M is offline
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Sick project, any more updates?
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:56 AM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
Got to almost finishing off the wiring schematic for the Unichip to the E46.

I still need to add the DISA control portion, Vanos control and Meth Injection control.

It is lots of work so far for this but in the end anyone will be able to duplicate it as I have done most of the work.

I hope that eventually others will tackle this themselves!

Here is the E46, MS45 Schematic for controlling the turbo stuff.

This looks like it will also work on the 530i with MS45.

Last edited by nivo; 07-03-2014 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:39 AM
Jesse M Jesse M is offline
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I actually plan on it later on after she's paid off. We have pretty much the same car. Rock on.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:11 PM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
If anyone needs, I can get the aluminum CNC intake manifold flanges made now.

Also, OBDII read/write of MS43, MS45 DME.

And for those going custom CCV set up I can get you these check valves:

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Old 07-03-2014, 02:23 PM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
Wiring diagram for the unichip to the MS45 DME.
This is the most detailed diagram you will find for the E46. I made this after wiring mine up.
this diagram does not yet have the DISA control and Vanos control.

Unichip Turbo BMW Wiring Diagram MS45 DME

Last edited by nivo; 07-03-2014 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:50 AM
ModBargains ModBargains is offline
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Wow, really interested in this. Keep it going!

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Old 07-24-2014, 08:23 AM
nivo nivo is offline
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Location: Worcester, Ma
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Mein Auto: 330Ci ZHP
M54 Intake Manifold Flanges

Here is a picture of the CNC machined M54 intake manifold flanges.
I had these made so the M54 guys can create custom intake manifolds.

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