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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #26  
Old 09-15-2010, 05:41 PM
klob25 klob25 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irokdastar383 View Post
maybe you have a leak somewhere .
Look at where your car is parked everynight. Is there a big oil drip mark ?
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  #27  
Old 09-15-2010, 11:40 PM
irokdastar383 irokdastar383 is offline
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Mein Auto: 745li
Quote:
Originally Posted by klob25 View Post
look at where your car is parked everynight. Is there a big oil drip mark ?
that doesnt always work . Under the engine is a big plastic cover it can hold oil spilled. I have a small valve cover leak and its all over my engine sterring etc but nothing on the floor. Take it to a shop have them pull it off and check it out. While you there have them run some test to see whats burning your oil. Going to a higher weight oil is a fix. You dont want to mess up the car. Just take it to any indy shop and have them performe a few diagnostics. It will be the best 150 bucks you ever spend.
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  #28  
Old 11-19-2010, 07:59 PM
elk5432 elk5432 is offline
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Just wanted to update this thread to say that Lucas Oil and heavier oil didn't fix my problem, I just wasn't paying close enough attention.

See this post for more info:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=402669&page=8
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  #29  
Old 09-13-2012, 06:42 PM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Location: Kalamazoo
 
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Mein Auto: BMW E65
Hello,

I bought used 745i last year, 81,000 miles and now it has 97500 miles. I noticed the oil consumption going up. Last summer 2 quarts after 12,000 miles and now this year 4 quarts after 5,000 miles. I had the two CCV replaced. No change in oil consumption but the car seems more peppy. I had a engine compression test perfromed today and all cylinders are 175 psi (number 4), 180 (5, 6), 185 (7,8) and 190 (1, 2, 3). The mechanic wants to replace the valve stem seals and head gaskets. Getting really expensive. How effective was the Lucas Oil Seal and 5w50 oil change in the car? I only drive the car from April through October and put it away for the Michigan winters. Otherwise, should I just keep adding the 4 quarts over the summer months? What is your thoughts?

The engine runs well and does not make any noises. Give me your thoughts.
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  #30  
Old 09-14-2012, 09:20 AM
elk5432 elk5432 is offline
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I saw your reply and read through all the updates that happened since my last post over a year ago.

The Lucas Oil products and heavier weight oil didn't make a noticeable difference for me after the first few weeks of driving.

Personally, I gave up and sold the car rather than put another 5k into it for the fix. It seems a couple other users did the same.

I sold the car to a friend of mine at a steep discount (basically the cost of the repairs). He was close with multiple mechanics and figured he would be able to get everything done much cheaper and resell the car. Afterwards, he told me it was a miserable experience and he lost money. They tried the simple fixes (again), and then when it came to actually removing the heads/valves the mechanics just didn't have the tools, making the job a lot more difficult.

I have kept all my repair invoices in hopes that some class action suit will be started for this issue... wishful thinking.

Elk5432
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  #31  
Old 09-14-2012, 09:45 AM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Location: Kalamazoo
 
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Thanks ELK5432,

I am glad you got back to me, I am really pleased with the car overall. But I am not so sure that the repairs are worth the price. I think for now, I will just attempt to monitor the oil consumption and shop around for a reasonable price to repair the valve stem seals. Thanks again for you candor. Sorry you had to sell your car, I know if it is like mine, it can be a great driving experience when behind the wheel. Since this is my first experience with a BMW, I was a little naive about the engineering and engine parts quality. Most mechanincs state that the BMW recommendation for oil changes at 12 - 15 k contribute to this problem, because there is a tendency to build up deposits when the oil gets over 5 - 7 k miles. So, I guess we can blame BMW. After all, they do not want you drive these cars forever, they really want you to buy new ones. So what if they wear out faster and cost an enormous amount to repair, that is better for them.

5000js
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  #32  
Old 09-14-2012, 09:52 AM
elk5432 elk5432 is offline
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It could be the seals or it could be the valve stems themselves getting worn (I wasn't sure if anyone came to a 100% conclusion on that one). From what I gathered from the threads, it's probably just a bad design where the stems get worn prematurely due to misalignment.

The car ran OK. It was just embarrassing when the 745 smokes like an old diesel truck, actually much more so than if I were driving an actual old truck that smoked.
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  #33  
Old 09-14-2012, 10:12 AM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Elk5432,

Did your car smoke all the time? Mine only smokes when the car is warmed up and sitting at idle, like at a drive through window is the only time I have noticed it. I do not notice it on accelerations or when I initially start the car.

5000js
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  #34  
Old 09-14-2012, 10:49 AM
elk5432 elk5432 is offline
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Only when you let it idle a bit (stop/go traffic, drive through, waiting at a light). Basically, the only time it wasn't releasing a puff of smoke was when it was constantly moving.
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  #35  
Old 09-14-2012, 10:56 AM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Thanks again, that sounds exactly what mine is doing. Although, it is not smoking at all times in stop and go, drive through or waiting at a light. I do not see puffs of smoke, if it burns it is a constant burn. More like the oil leaked into the cylinder and had to be burned out. Not a puffing al all.
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  #36  
Old 09-14-2012, 06:33 PM
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MOPAULY MOPAULY is offline
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Valve. Seals. No bull**** in a bottle folks.
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  #37  
Old 09-14-2012, 06:48 PM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Got a tip from a independent tech today to check out the OSV for a faulty diaphragm. Tested the suction on the dipstick. Started the car with the dipstick in and then removed. I heard a high pitch whine in the front part of the engine. The idle changed. I placed my thumb over the dipstick hole and the car stalled after a few seconds. I repalced the dipstick. then restarted the car. Performed the same procedure. This time the car idle slowed when I removed the dipstick and it stalled again after a few seconds.

Finally, I replaced the dipstick. and only took it out an inch. The idle dropped and the whine increased. I replaced the dipstick all the way in and the car idled up to normal.

What is the problem? Is this consistent with the OSV problem.
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  #38  
Old 09-15-2012, 08:57 AM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Got a tip from a independent tech today to check out the OSV for a faulty diaphragm. Tested the suction on the dipstick. Started the car with the dipstick in and then removed. I heard a high pitch whine in the front part of the engine. The idle changed. I placed my thumb over the dipstick hole and the car stalled after a few seconds. I repalced the dipstick. then restarted the car. Performed the same procedure. This time the car idle slowed when I removed the dipstick and it stalled again after a few seconds.

Finally, I replaced the dipstick. and only took it out an inch. The idle dropped and the whine increased. I replaced the dipstick all the way in and the car idled up to normal.

What is the problem? Is this consistent with the OSV problem.
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  #39  
Old 09-16-2012, 07:22 PM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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I found a vaccuum leak at the front of the engine at the t-connection hose at the center of the intake manifold. Pressed the t-connector onto the intake and that sealed it. Now mild suction at the oil dip stick and at the oil filler cap. Less RPM change when dip stick is pulled out or the oil cap is removed. I am still going to have the OSV checked by the dealer or independent tech this week. Also, I let the car idle for 10 minutes in my garage, I noticed white smoke only, no blue smoke from the exhaust that I could see. I will try to keep updating the thread as I progress in this endeavor to find a solution.
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  #40  
Old 09-20-2012, 11:38 AM
AUZREAL187 AUZREAL187 is offline
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Has anyone mentioned the heads? It seems like all we do constantly is pull the heads and drill out the carbon on "smokies"

Sent from my AT100 using Bimmer App
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  #41  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:14 PM
5000JS 5000JS is offline
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Thanks for the reply. I had the car into the Independent service center yesterday. I got it back and the car is running quietly and no smoking at all. Here is the full extent of the repairs to date. I will list all repairs by the two independents, ISC1 and ISC2. ICS1, I had asked him to change the CCVs, but afterwards I will note he did not change them. He performed the compression test on all cylinders, and replaced all the spark plugs for $375 ($128 parts and $242 labor). Then he replaced the SEC air valves, pulled the manifold and replaced a hose, changed a voltage regulator part for a total of close to $850 (air pump control valve, intake gasket and air pump hose $325 parts and $525 labor.) The smoking and exhaust fault light came back the next day so I took it back and charged me another $75 to evaluate the check engine light. That is when he handed me an estimate for repairs for the following items $5299 that include Valve stem seals replacement $3375, Machine shop $800, parts $989 and taxes. He then offered to buy my car for $3000. I refused the repair estimate and purchase offers and went home. So, the next day, I started making calls to other BMW service outlets, dealers and independents. I found the best information from two independents, one in Kalamazoo and one in Grand Rapids. Both suggested that the crankcase oil ventilation system, so I was back again to the CCVs that I originally wanted ISC1 to replace. ICS2 tested the vaccuum on the dipstick and oils filler cap. He said it was very excessive. He replaced the CCVs $80 parts and labor for testing and replacement was $330. And today, there is no smoke, no hesitation or rough idling and the transmission even shifts smoother. So, hopefully all is repaired at a cost of $1620. If my 2004 745i has any further oil burning problems, I will return to this thread with more comments.
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  #42  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:12 AM
ayman ayman is offline
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most of bmw E65 had this issue oil burning becouse a lot of people using full synthetic for long time 20,000km-25,000km and thats whats make the valve seal bean hard. so for me i buy Titan oil very cheap and change it every 5000km-7000km butter then buying full synthetic oil.

full synthetic is very soft oil and most of the previous e38 e39 issues with the vanos was from this oil.
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