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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 09-17-2012, 12:22 PM
Black Water Black Water is online now
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Mein Auto: 1990 535i 3.5L Ger A/T
First bimmer radiator replacement

Ok, so it looks simple enough to replace. Old one cracked at top driver side at inlet area. It seems standard to go back with the plastic like OE. Bleeding appears to give people trouble? Radiator manufacturer says these units are bad to trap air? I've read everything from jack up driver side wheel to stand on your head and whislte Dixie to get the air out. Any real world advice you guys have would be great. Thanks Oh it's a 1990 535i

Last edited by Black Water; 09-17-2012 at 12:24 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2012, 10:05 PM
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Radian Radian is offline
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There's a mod you can do to the thermostat that guarantees a perfect bleed every time. It's a matter of drilling a 1/32" hole about 3/16th" from the outer edge of the thermostat, then placing that hole at 12 o'clock when you re-install it. That allows the air to pass through for bleeding, but isn't large enough to upset the function of the thermostat. Ref. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=thermostat posts #16 & #18

There's also a good tip here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1649538

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  #3  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:29 PM
japbike736 japbike736 is offline
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I am about to go thru the same thing with my 90 535i. The only thing I know that really works everytime is remove the t-stat and fill the block from the top. I did that with my 92 525i and it worked. That sounds like alot of trouble but it's not as bad as a blown head gasket.......
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  #4  
Old 09-20-2012, 07:58 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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I've found hole in thermostat and park with nose up hill worked every time. Also turn heater on full heat.
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2012, 01:44 PM
Black Water Black Water is online now
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Sounds Reasonable. But question: is the bleeder screw on top of the separate expansion tank or is it the square head screw on the therm housing? Also I just cranked my engine for a few seconds, stuck a little rolled up magazine in the fan and it stopped it very, very easily, is this the test for the fan clutch?
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2012, 03:43 PM
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There isn't a single square-head fastener on the entire car.

That's the wrong bolt and should be replaced with the correct one. $4-5 depending on where you go...but to answer your question yes, the one on the thermostat housing is indeed the bleeder screw.

The test for the fan clutch is with the engine cold, give the fan blade a quick flip with your fingers. The blades should stop rotating within 1/4 to 3/4 turn. If it freewheels for more than a full turn or two, the viscous fluid has leaked out and it's bad. With the engine running, but still cold, the fan should remain quiet when you rev the engine to 2-3000 RPM. If it sound like a dump truck (making a "woooshing" sound and moving a bunch of air) it's bad and needs to be replaced.
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Old 09-22-2012, 05:20 PM
Black Water Black Water is online now
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That was the first test I did after reading some in the forum. When cold the fan has plenty of resistance and doesn't spin freely. It stops almost immediately. Thanks
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  #8  
Old 09-22-2012, 07:02 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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if your fitting a late model/facelift radiator there will be a bleeder screw on both the thermo housing and also on the radiator by the filler cap. I dont know why people have issues with bleeding. i never do, and i don't do any of these fancy tricks. open the valve, bring RPM to around 2000rpm using your ear and the throttle lever in the engine bay and wait till its a steady stream of water and no bubbles.
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:11 PM
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There is no filler cap on the radiator for an M30. The filler cap is on the reservoir, up on the firewall. It's a different arrangement from the small-block sixes and can be biotch to get any coolant to the stock thermostat without using the previously referenced techniques.
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Last edited by Radian; 09-22-2012 at 11:13 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2012, 12:46 AM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radian View Post
There is no filler cap on the radiator for an M30. The filler cap is on the reservoir, up on the firewall. It's a different arrangement from the small-block sixes and can be biotch to get any coolant to the stock thermostat without using the previously referenced techniques.
thats why you will see i said late model/facelift radiator. M30 were ended when facelift came along and the new generation of engines came out M40 M50 and M60
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  #11  
Old 09-26-2012, 04:22 PM
Black Water Black Water is online now
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All done. Thanks for the help. Feedback is always helpful so: I had no problems bleeding the radiator. I hooked it all up, car was actually facing downhill a little, bleeder screw closed, slowly added a gallon of coolant a little at a time letting the air displace which I could hear, used just a little out of gallon 2 but not much at all, brought coolant to level, turned heat on, cranked engine and let idle, when temp came up a little and coolant rose in the expansion tank I put the cap on, I opened the bleeder screw and let some air out, I would close it back as soon as coolant flowed solid, only a few seconds, let it continue to idle, bled it maybe 15 times. Coolant temp came up to normal and held, pulled around to facing uphill and let idle, bled a few more times had no air only coolant, drove it around a few minutes. Coolant level light is off now, no leaks and I will check level when cool and keep an eye on it. Piece of cake
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  #12  
Old 09-26-2012, 06:56 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Water View Post
All done. Thanks for the help. Feedback is always helpful so: I had no problems bleeding the radiator. I hooked it all up, car was actually facing downhill a little, bleeder screw closed, slowly added a gallon of coolant a little at a time letting the air displace which I could hear, used just a little out of gallon 2 but not much at all, brought coolant to level, turned heat on, cranked engine and let idle, when temp came up a little and coolant rose in the expansion tank I put the cap on, I opened the bleeder screw and let some air out, I would close it back as soon as coolant flowed solid, only a few seconds, let it continue to idle, bled it maybe 15 times. Coolant temp came up to normal and held, pulled around to facing uphill and let idle, bled a few more times had no air only coolant, drove it around a few minutes. Coolant level light is off now, no leaks and I will check level when cool and keep an eye on it. Piece of cake

Its actually a breeze to bleed our radiator. Doesn't require stuff like parking the car uphill or downhill and 15 bleeds. Following a flush, fill up right to the top until bubbles stop coming out of the bleed screw. Then start the engine and fill up immediately again until no bubbles come out. Then let it reach operating temperature with the cabin heater on at full blast, then rebleed and reinstall the bleed screw and rad cap. You're done.

For absolute peace of mind, you can bleed the radiator one final time after a driving the car after one day or two but really, after 3 years on these forums and having tried different ways to bleed the radiator and having bled it many many times, I can safely say that the trapped air bubbles in the cooling system and bleeding issue has been way overrated. The people who have problems with this are really those who totally screwed it up somehow, from what I can see. Its a simple procedure and fairly idiot proof. Why would they make a radiator that was so complicated to bleed?

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 09-26-2012 at 07:00 PM.
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