Valve Seals Leaking.

Heads don't need to come off but engine out.Find another mechanic if he can't do it that way.

Does this mean the engine is bad? I see people asking to fix seals or replace engine. Supposed the two in the back of the engine are not leaking. Would it be feasible to just replace the front 6? I'm just trying to offer an easier alternative

Engine not bad just valve seals.We who have done or had this done hope the problem was in part caused by extended oil changes,not design problem.Since not all n62 n63tu do this maybe not design.

How long can he drive it like this? what other things will go wrong?

Drive like this for however long the cats last and you last puttin oil in it.

Originally Posted by dolfan13

Drive like this for however long the cats last and you last puttin oil in it.

The cats? How would it affect the cats? Sounds like he can still drive and save up his funds for an indy. I hope If this happens to me, it happens during my extended warranty and that rt66 covers it.

Your putting a lot of contaminates into your exhaust stream that were not designed to be in that amount.Valve seals that go bad are usually the exhaust side seals.This oil was not burnt in the cylinder but rather by the exhaust manifold heat and cat heat .Thats why it is white and confused for coolant.This I believe is harder on the cats.Oil burnt in combustion is blue.

Well I was wrong to say about valve seals in my posts, actually it's common thing on 4.4 L engines, after reading on 7-series forum. One guy did DIY for valve seals. But what more interesting my friend's shop just got car for valve seal on X5 with 4.4 L. They tried oil separator and didn't help. I took couple pictures for 4.4L engine.

Valve seals are under those springs in third pic.Easy job on old pushrod engine.

Its exhaust valves but I guess it's leaking at intake in the most cases. The valvetronic needs to be remove but timing needs to be lock, so special tool required for this job, otherwise losing timing will be not fun to get it back right.
It was easy used be you are right I did back those days on my Lada very easy and quick, and it needed to replace each about 30,000 km to 50,000 km. Now days with hydralic lifters it's all like a science.
One of those:

So how much is your friend charging him to fix it? not the original $500 - $700 quote right? lol. Was there more room in the X5 bay than the 5 series?

I think about 24 + hours of labor plus parts.
I don't think it's much more room, only engine is sitting higher then on 5 series.

Update on the N62TU V8 engine. I found a European mechanic and after he open the head he found all the valve seals fried plus coolant leaking. Hope ths will fix the smoke problem when he put it back together.

Sent from my PC36100 using Bimmer App

So I talked to about price for this repair my guys is charging around 30 hours of labor, so if you are interested let me know.

Its the valve guides...AND the valve seals will be a very expensive and temporary fix.
It will start smoking again. anyone found a way to repair the guides ? so far they are not repairable and no part is available ,my 06 750i with 191k smokes at idle everytime.

Originally Posted by phil996

Its the valve guides...AND the valve seals will be a very expensive and temporary fix.
It will start smoking again. anyone found a way to repair the guides ? so far they are not repairable and no part is available ,my 06 750i with 191k smokes at idle everytime.

Do they worn inside the channel? So there is no replacement part for guides?
If yes this is another confirmation of the:
1. 15,000 oil change is bad
2. BMW oil is not last 15,000 miles, but more likely 10,000 max only as oil test showed
3. BMW oil is not full synthetic oil
4. Use Mobil1 5W-30
5. Do oil changes every 5,000 to 7000 miles.

Valve seals only... done 25k ago,was using a quart of oil every 1000 miles or less depending on stop and go.Now not a drop.So maybe a gamble but I had a lot of leaks and was easier to pull engine anyway.

My friend's shop got another 06 550 with valve seals are bad. The car has 110000 miles and it feels good now because I sold my car.

Originally Posted by phlfly

My friend's shop got another 06 550 with valve seals are bad. The car has 110000 miles and it feels good now because I sold my car.

So what did you end up buying to replace it?

Originally Posted by 550iMarine

So what did you end up buying to replace it?

I got 12' VW Passat TDi, since I don't money for newer BMW. I will for several years, but I will definitely buy only 3-series. I was looking at 335 but price tag 47,000 even lease to much money with a lot money down. It was not make a sense to do so.

Big difference than your 550i? Did you have alot of problems with it? Mine isnt problem free but all pretty minor. So far after 1 year, I have put 26K miles on it. The only issues so far was battery (I put a post on here somewhere), expansion tank, coolant sensor (expansion tank and sensor fixed under Rt 66 warranty). My passenger airbag warning light comes on sometimes but goes out on it's own within moments. I guess it depends on the weight of the passenger and how they move around in the seat. Another issue but I've read is common is if I dont start it in a few days, It will sound a lil rough at initial start for a few seconds then idle fine. I've read there was a flash for this. My biggest issue that I'm trying to decipher now is "Why in the hell is it eating up the inside of my rear tires (275/30/20) so damn fast!!! Brand new tires didnt even make it to 10K miles without the wires (radial) showing!!

Not to mention, I'm without a spare and cant seem to find one I've gone to "Pick-a-part junk yards but go figure, no E60s on the lots. A three series spare will fit right? I just want something to pack in my trunk for a "just in case" moment.

Once that issue is resolved hopefully I can continue to Rack up miles!!!

O sold it because I couldn't solve a problem with battery discharge, it would not discharge completely but it would rest clocks, some memory things. Well BMW dealer and my guys don't know what is wrong, just said let replace boxes, well I don't go there since too too much money.

Originally Posted by phlfly

O sold it because I couldn't solve a problem with battery discharge, it would not discharge completely but it would rest clocks, some memory things. Well BMW dealer and my guys don't know what is wrong, just said let replace boxes, well I don't go there since too too much money.

Ahh, I have that issue if I let the radio run or leave a door open too long when the car is not running. I thought it was the car until a friend of mine with a Chevy Avalanche told me his truck doesnt like the radio being left on without the truck running as well. Guess it's all these new gadgets that place a high demand on the battery.

Also I noticed that if I dont start the car for a while the clock would have to be reset. If I charge up the battery on a tender for two hours, I no longer have to reset the clock, however over a few days, the clock will not be accurate (a few minutes behind actual time). I've read where some members just keep their cars on trickle chargers. I only charge mine if the time resets starts happening again. (I put a new battery in back in April 2012).

Oh well, hope you get to enjoy the VW. Did you have any E60 accessories leftover that you wanna get rid of?

Can take voltage measurement in the morning? I had 11.6-11.8, but it should be at least 12.3V

I brought back this thread just because a lot V8's are getting over the 100K mark, so watch out before buying or you may consider to sell it before you see a "blue smoke" out of your exhaust pipe.
For last several months, my friend's shop have done around 4-5 BMW V8 with this problem. A lot of them 4.5L (since most of those models have more miles already), but it's getting 5.5 L on door step. And stay away from 745, all these cars have this problem eventually.