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E60 / E61 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series E60 Sedan was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E61 wagon followed shortly there after. The E60/E61 5 series is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #426  
Old 08-01-2012, 08:27 PM
boost7 boost7 is offline
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So is there still some kind of action I can take if my car is out of warranty and experiencing the exact same issue as OP? What is this lawyer able to do for 545 owners? Or I'm stuck and will have to fork up $$$.
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  #427  
Old 08-06-2012, 09:49 PM
boost7 boost7 is offline
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I came across this thread on the other forum, and hopefully it'll help me or someone else when it comes time for the mechatronic replacement.

http://forums.5series.net/topic/1252...7#entry1460977
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  #428  
Old 09-05-2012, 01:07 PM
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silverbimmer3 silverbimmer3 is offline
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Here is another one:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=502966
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  #429  
Old 09-06-2012, 02:52 PM
hooch999 hooch999 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost7 View Post
So is there still some kind of action I can take if my car is out of warranty and experiencing the exact same issue as OP? What is this lawyer able to do for 545 owners? Or I'm stuck and will have to fork up $$$.
Good luck winning against a major corporation like BMW in the US - this country is built for and managed by them, you have exactly 0 chance.
The best action you can take to stop bmw sucking blood out of you is to sell your car and never come back.
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  #430  
Old 09-07-2012, 09:10 AM
Space grau 550i Space grau 550i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hooch999 View Post
Good luck winning against a major corporation like BMW in the US - this country is built for and managed by them, you have exactly 0 chance.
The best action you can take to stop bmw sucking blood out of you is to sell your car and never come back.
+1, especially if you have no warranty. I'm glad I have warranty on my car, even though BMW denied my warranty claim of my car surging and refused to do anything about it. Then had the nerve to try and charge me a diagnostic fee, which was quickly waived after I let the service manager have piece of my mind

Once my warranty is close to being out, I will sell my car and either lease BMW's going forward or just buy a Lexus ISF. At least Lexus treat their customers better.
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Last edited by Space grau 550i; 09-07-2012 at 09:14 AM.
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  #431  
Old 09-11-2012, 02:51 PM
filstan filstan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 550i4TW View Post
i'm curious if anyone has had this issue on the later models? I have a 09' 550i and all i have noticed is a slight surge when downshifting from 2nd to 1st while coming to a stop. Is this just the beginning? and should i have it replaced by the dealer while still under warranty?
The key is to get BMW service to duplicate the issue so it can be identified as a specific problem. I have been experiencing the same shifting issues/problem with my 2010 550i M sport for the past few years. I have taken it in to have the dealer identify the problem and they could not get it to happen on the test drives. Since the issue would happen sporadically I had no luck with getting the problem fixed. Until now that is. I just had the car certified before I bought it once my lease ran out in April, so I am covered warranty wise with the car currently at 52,000. I called BMW NA last week and described the issue to a customer service rep. My problem is now duly noted with BMW. I took the car in yesterday to the local dealer and have them check on the issue for what has to be the 5th-6th time. I told them to have the head service tech take the car home for 2-3 days and he should discover the shifting issue that has been driving me nuts the past 3 years. Low and behold I get a call back today, and yes the shifting problem up from 2nd to 3rd and 2nd down to first was duplicated. Same with coming to a stop and the lurch that would take place just before stopping in heavy traffic. They are replacing the auto trans. I asked them to tell me specifically what the problem was and they said BMW will not share the information, but will install a brand new transmission. I am supposed to get the car back later this week. It would appear this will be a happy ending for what otherwise has been
a very frustrating situation. Let's see how the new transmission works.
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  #432  
Old 09-11-2012, 02:59 PM
filstan filstan is offline
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Also worth noting the service dept at the dealer said this transmission issue was considered a PUMA designated problem.
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  #433  
Old 09-18-2012, 03:37 AM
deelo2004 deelo2004 is offline
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Yes, my 2004 545i does the same thing and no knows what it is, can anyone help us?
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  #434  
Old 09-18-2012, 05:26 AM
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Bad Debt Bad Debt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deelo2004 View Post
Yes, my 2004 545i does the same thing and no knows what it is, can anyone help us?
Come on man, there is 18 pages of help right here....
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  #435  
Old 10-02-2012, 01:09 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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So, just got my 2004 545i (very low price / high miles) and it has the jerky 2 to 1 shifts, "hiccup" at 35-40mph low throttle situation and a little quirky going to either 4 to 5 or 5 to 6. I lose count when I get into those high gears, :lol: Also seems to be MUCH better in sports mode, all indicative of the mechatronics unit. I was going to change the fluid/filter/etc. first but am thinking of just going ahead and replacing the assembly while I'm in there. This fluid is so expensive I hate to have to drain it again (I'll be doing the wrenching)

So, I am looking at a couple of options:

Option 1 is a rebuilt unit from thectsc. This is probably the safest bet. The kit he sells actually has a new pan included, which you can return for a refund since I already have a new pan on the way (was going to try changing fluid first). Cost, let's call it $1500 w/shipping.

Option 2 is have one of a few companies out there rebuild my unit for me. RevMax Torque Converters is one company that does it, but I'm not sure how comfortable I am with that. Cost is $800 w/48 hour turn around.

Thoughts? If money weren't an issue, Option 1 would be a no brainer. Has anyone had theirs rebuilt? If so, where and what were the results?? I'd love to cut the cost in half but don't want to spend $800 there just to have to spend $1500 if they do a crappy job.

The other vehicles that use this transmission have rebuild services out there for 1/3 of what we have to pay--looks like someone would have offered a popular service for ours by now!

Last edited by schpenxel; 10-02-2012 at 01:52 PM.
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  #436  
Old 10-06-2012, 01:33 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Update on mine, 10/6

I replaced the transmission pan (filter) and oil today (well, 5.5 quarts anyways). The car was definitely low on oil to begin with. I could not find any leaks around the mechatronics sleeve so I left that alone.

Most issues are gone. 2->1 is still SLIGHTLY abrupt, but nothing like before. 5 to 6 is fine now and there was one other, 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 that was rough, that one is smooth too now, so it looks like some new oil + the right amount helped those issues. It's a huge improvement on those issues.

HOWEVER, the 5th gear hiccup is present with a vengeance. It's a pretty abrupt hiccup, not just a little thing that you can barely feel. If I'm going over 80, it doesn't do it. Anything below that in 5th has the hiccup if I'm touching the gas even a little bit.

Any thoughts on whether new mechatronics will fix this? Looks like some other people have had the 5th gear hiccup also and it worked, but it's still $1500 I wish I didn't have to spend.


---------------


One more update, 10/8:

First, I found this link to by far the best and most thorough manual for this transmission that I have ever found. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14739987/242...6%E2%80%9D.pdf

If the link ever stops working please PM me and I will upload a copy somewhere for everyone. It covers everything from how all the different types of solenoids work to all of the hydraulic paths, conditions for each gear, just about everything. Pretty great

Secondly, I ordered a new set of solenoids. We'll see if that helps and go from there. If not, I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

Last edited by schpenxel; 10-08-2012 at 01:48 PM.
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  #437  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:36 PM
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kskane kskane is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schpenxel View Post
Update on mine, 10/6

I replaced the transmission pan (filter) and oil today (well, 5.5 quarts anyways). The car was definitely low on oil to begin with. I could not find any leaks around the mechatronics sleeve so I left that alone.

Most issues are gone. 2->1 is still SLIGHTLY abrupt, but nothing like before. 5 to 6 is fine now and there was one other, 3 to 4 or 4 to 5 that was rough, that one is smooth too now, so it looks like some new oil + the right amount helped those issues. It's a huge improvement on those issues.

HOWEVER, the 5th gear hiccup is present with a vengeance. It's a pretty abrupt hiccup, not just a little thing that you can barely feel. If I'm going over 80, it doesn't do it. Anything below that in 5th has the hiccup if I'm touching the gas even a little bit.

Any thoughts on whether new mechatronics will fix this? Looks like some other people have had the 5th gear hiccup also and it worked, but it's still $1500 I wish I didn't have to spend.


---------------


One more update, 10/8:

First, I found this link to by far the best and most thorough manual for this transmission that I have ever found. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14739987/242...6%E2%80%9D.pdf

If the link ever stops working please PM me and I will upload a copy somewhere for everyone. It covers everything from how all the different types of solenoids work to all of the hydraulic paths, conditions for each gear, just about everything. Pretty great

Secondly, I ordered a new set of solenoids. We'll see if that helps and go from there. If not, I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
Can you change the solenoids without having to re-code the car? I was told by my Indy, you cannot just change one solenoid on 6HP19 trans, as it will need to be re-programmed by BMW. Which part of mecha holds the code anyway?

Also, do you have similar guide for 6HP19 that you can share?

Sent from my Android Bug

Last edited by kskane; 10-10-2012 at 02:40 PM.
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  #438  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:05 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kskane View Post
Can you change the solenoids without having to re-code the car? I was told by my Indy, you cannot just change one solenoid on 6HP19 trans, as it will need to be re-programmed by BMW. Which part of mecha holds the code anyway?

Also, do you have similar guide for 6HP19 that you can share?

Sent from my Android Bug
There's no reason you can't physically swap out solenoids. The connection to them is just two wires to turn them on and off. Nothing sophisticated enuogh for the computer to actually know if you change them out.

Technically it's not really recommended as a best practice (as far as I know anyways) to change out solenoids without any kind of calibration. However, I've been told by thectsc that usually there's enough "adjustment" allowed by the computer that it will adjust to new solenoid without any programming and work fine in my type of case (Maybe not as good as original but a whole lot better than I have now..) I'm not sure how the programming is done--on all the rebuilt mechatronics I've seen there's talk of using some sort of machine to calibrate the solenoids, but I don't really have any details on how that works. I hope this works, otherwise I'm going to be wishing I had just bought a rebuilt mechatronics unit off from the beginning and been done with it.

I'm sure there is a similar guide for the 6HP19. Actually, I'm not even sure what differences there are. I thought the 26 was basically the same transmission, just built with stronger parts/clutch packs to handle more torque? So the one I posted may be applicable for the most part. I also found a shop in the UK that has basically every piece of these transmissions in stock, and they are super responsive. Shipping is 3-4 days via DHL international and the parts I had quoted were about $40 to get them here (Make sure you convert the currency from GBP and not from euros like I tried to do, lol). thectsc may have the same parts, I haven't actually asked (but did get the solenoids, fluid, etc. from him). If you want their contact info let me know or PM me.

It will probably be weekend after this one before I get to put all of this in, so hopefully no updates between now and then.

One thing I find interesting about this whole jerking in 5th gear thing is that it doesn't do it at all when cold. Only when it's completely up to temp.

Here's a summary of all my symptoms, maybe someone with more knowledge than me will have some insight:

1st gear, slightly jerky when cold (only first thing in the morning, not sure if this is engine or transmission related. Changing spark plugs this weekend for the heck of it)

2 to 3 shift is smooth
3 to 4 shifts smooth
4 to 5 shifts smooth
5th gear jerk (only when warm) every couple of seconds, any speed under 80MPH
5 to 6 shifts jerky

6 to 5 shifts smooth
5 to 4 I don't have anything written down, so presumably smooth
4 to 3, same as above
3 to 2, shifts jerky
2 to 1, not sure

by "jerky" I mean there's not that nice flow from one gear to the next, it's just BAM next gear and nothing inbetween

I sure hope these new solenoids take care of it! It's sad I'm already looking for a second cheapo car, just in case I take something like this apart and can't get it back together the same day (this is my only car at the moment)

Anyways. Hopefully this helps someone!

Last edited by schpenxel; 10-10-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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  #439  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:39 AM
nguyendot nguyendot is offline
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I had these same problems with my 550i and could not figure out what was making the transmission so jerky especially in sport mode.

I replaced the throttle body with one I bought off ebay with far fewer miles and ran a throttle body reset on it (engine/key ON, engine itself off). Also cleared the ECU with my obd2 reader (doubt this did anything).

Ran some seafoam through (Also doubt this did anything...)

After that all the jerkiness was gone. Wife no longer complains about the slamming transmission.

Who knows. I'll reinstall the old throttle body and reset it this weekend to see what gives. Luckily I got the throttle body super cheap, and it wasn't to fix this problem. I was going to have it bored out to portmatch the manifold and this was an unexpected surprise.

Just my 2 cents, I just thought I'd chime in!
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  #440  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:43 AM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Very interesting!

Please let us know any results
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  #441  
Old 10-13-2012, 04:26 AM
filstan filstan is offline
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New transmission installed gratis by BMW is working just fine. Out of habit though I am still waiting for the car to lurch when downshifting out of 2nd to 1st or shifting up to 3rd. Hasn't happened yet, but I have only been driving the car 3 days due to return from a long vacation. While it took a few years to get this issue resolved BMW stepped up and fixed the problem in the end. Glad I certified the car when I bought it after the lease expired. Any rules for breaking in new transmissions?

On a side note, BMW said they also installed a new computer module. In the process all of the many albums I uploaded to the car now carry no titles. Just "ripped with a number designation. However, individual tracks within the albums are still named making it a process of just renaming lots of albums or just deleting and re upload. Either way it's going to take a lot of time. That's the negative. The positive part of this is I have a new navigation look, and the telephone pairing is working better with my Iphone 4s as compared with before when I had problems getting the contact list to transfer.
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  #442  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:02 PM
kaler kaler is offline
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for bmw 5 serie owners best way to avoid this problem is filling up with the top of the line gas and use gas cleaner fluids when u fill up and injecter cleaner fluid
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  #443  
Old 10-18-2012, 01:58 PM
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Bad Debt Bad Debt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaler View Post
for bmw 5 serie owners best way to avoid this problem is filling up with the top of the line gas and use gas cleaner fluids when u fill up and injecter cleaner fluid
That has to be the dumbest thing I have read on Bimmerfest yet.
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  #444  
Old 10-18-2012, 04:07 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Debt View Post
That has to be the dumbest thing I have read on Bimmerfest yet.
Indeed. Of course injector cleaner rip off products will make your transmission last longer. It makes PERFECT SENSE!! Higher octane gas (did everyone know higher octane is just a rating that a fuel is MORE difficult to ignite? The amount of energy is the same--the rest is just marketing) makes even more sense. Except not.

Now, for the rest of you that live in reality here on Earth--Attached is another really good PDF on these transmissions. I think this was actually written for the Ford / Jaguar versions, but I am thinking (maybe wrongly) that a lot still applies. Shows a lot about how to take the mechatronics off the valve body, etc. for any of you (myself included) that will be performing such a task
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2011_Presentation_AutoChoice.pdf (3.06 MB, 360 views)
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  #445  
Old 10-21-2012, 02:12 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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One more update for anyone still reading:

I had reset my transmission using the hold the gas pedal to the floor for 30 seconds thing a few times and it never really made much difference. Friday I finally got my D+K CAN cable in and reset all the adaptations via INPA. First drive, it had a little trouble shifting smooth, little jerky, high RPM's once or twice before finally changing gears, etc. etc. BUT ultimately after it figured it out, basically all of my problems are gone. I've driven a few hundred miles this weekend and the 5th gear hardcore jerking is at most a small hiccup, only at a certain speed/throttle position (so seldom I haven't been able to really even repeat it, only felt it barely once by coincidence). Jerky 5 to 6 change is gone. Jerky 3 to 2 is gone. The little jerk right before you stop (2 to 1) is still present, but a software update should take care of that one. I just haven't gotten up the nerve to update the transmission computer software yet, lol.

Also, changed spark plugs today and my god the old ones looked horrible. 5 were the original bosch style (the car has 180K on it so I sure hope they aren't actually originals) and the electrodes were half gone. The other 3 (easiest ones to get to..) had been replaced at some point with NGK ones. I replaced all 8 in about an hour (not sure why everyone acts like it's a tough job? It was really relatively easy and painless).

Verdict: It's a whole different car. It used to be so jerky off idle I was almost embarassed to have people ride with me and def wouldn't let anyone else drive. I almost preferred to drive my work car (Imapala) just because this thing was such a pain to drive halfway smoothly. Between the plugs and transmission complete reset, it's completely different. So much better to drive now!

edit: added pics of sparkplugs
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Last edited by schpenxel; 10-21-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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  #446  
Old 10-27-2012, 01:39 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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One more update:

I ordered a solenoid kit a few weeks ago, but never had a chance to install it. A couple of days ago I started having issues with 4 to 5 shifting under hard acceleration (once it even gave the transmission warning message and locked me into one gear. turning car off/back on got me going again at least), so I figured it was time to put these in.

Is there a DIY for how to do this? If not, I'll try to write one up if anyone wants or needs it. Please let me know if anyone wants this.. It's pretty easy. Just pull the mechatronics/valve body. Take mechatronics (plastic + electronics) off of valve body, remove solenoids, install new solenoids and put it all back together.

One thing that really freaked me out was I got it all apart and the old solenoids were green, new ones were blue. I just about put the old ones back in, but realized when I blew on some of them they were leaking pretty bad, so I figured I'd try the blue and see what happens. About the time I got it back together thectsc wrote me back and said it was just a color change, but what I had would work fine.

So, the verdict: With new solenoids, this is the best shifting I've seen out of this car so far. Shifts are quick and firm, but not jerky at all. Much better than before. Going into reverse is almost instant now, where it used to take 2-3 seconds before it would engage. I reset all of the adapatations so I've had a few little jerks here and there during downshifts, but you can tell it's changing fine, just sometimes the computer is changing down a little too early. Hopefully it learns how to be smoother about it.

I can also be hard on the gas and no problems with the 4 to 5 shift or any others for that matter


If I drove it hard I used to get some codes about output speed not being correct or something like that, which I assume was either from slow shifting or slipping clutch packs. Regardless, I drove it hard earlier and got no error messages at all.

I would suggest anyone about to replace their whole valvebody/mechatronics who has the classic symptoms consider just replacing the solenoids, if you are so inclined.

Last edited by schpenxel; 10-27-2012 at 01:41 PM.
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  #447  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:09 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is offline
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And here's a video of the valve body / mechatronics removal and solenoid swap that I made:



Let me know if there are any questions. This isn't a full step by step, but in my opinion gives more detail than I was able to find anywhere else on the web.

Last edited by schpenxel; 12-09-2012 at 07:33 PM.
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  #448  
Old 10-30-2012, 01:03 PM
greeniner greeniner is offline
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Seems that the surging in mine is worse the colder it is outside and only first thing in the morning. I have 48,000 miles and am taking it to the dealer this Saturday. (09 550i)
The dealer was able to duplicate the problem and are opening a case with BMW, we shall see. ***** Update They did the software update and after I test drove, it didnt fix anything. So on to mechtronics work I assume.

Last edited by greeniner; 11-12-2012 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Update
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  #449  
Old 11-03-2012, 06:18 AM
tommyv tommyv is offline
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yesterday I had the sealing sleeve and leaking trans pan replaced. Replaced fluid with Redline D4 and all of my surging issues are gone. Total cost for the work was $735. My symptoms prior to the change were hard 2-1 downshifts and a noticeable surge when shifting from Reverse to Drive. I should also add that no software updates were done as my mechanic said that all software was up to date. I'll report back in a few weeks as to whether or not this resolves my trans issues long term.
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  #450  
Old 11-07-2012, 08:24 PM
elektron82 elektron82 is offline
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Unhappy Oh boy...

Hi all.

I just bought an 05 545i a little over a week ago with 76k miles. Its an automatic. The dealer thought it had the sport package but I found out via research that it actually does not. Because of that I didn't think much about the rough shifting it had on test drive. At this point I am starting to notice it more because I am not "getting used to" the car and getting smoother technique.

I have a lot of dead zone in the gas pedal, about the first 10 degrees has almost no effect. Then it picks up and causes a "surge" of torque at once after pressing down far enough.

The other thing I noticed was that I can't smoothly stop the car. The downshifts are noticeable no matter how much braking is applied. Once about to stop it seems like it downshifts and then the idle suddenly drops. If i don't time my foot letting up on the brake pedal carefully then the car ends up bucking wildly.

I don't have any slams or sounds going on. I don't notice any hiccups or hesitation in any gear. Its just when starting off, braking, and especially when coming to a stop it has issues.

Does this sound like the mechatronics unit is starting to fail? If so I am thinking to do fluid/filter service and save up for a different car. Of course on the other hand I feel confident I could replace it myself and if the car drove nicely afterwords then it might be worth it to me. I paid 18 for the car. I think I will start with either a test drive of another 545 or have an experienced tech confirm it.

Thanks.
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