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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 08-07-2008, 04:42 PM
thegooch325 thegooch325 is offline
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Coil won't pulse!!!!!!!!!!!!!

getting 12v to coil...negative side won't pulse...changed harness...brain is good....all relays good...sensors in bell housing good...flywheel mark in tact...no spark still!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
let's hear it.....done everything...thanks
gooch

Last edited by thegooch325; 08-07-2008 at 04:43 PM. Reason: forgot some stuff
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2008, 06:25 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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bad crank sensor is my guess
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2008, 07:02 PM
thegooch325 thegooch325 is offline
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brother--do you mean the crankshaft pulley sensor? (front of motor) if so...it was changed when i put the new harness on...plus, isn't that just for diagnosis...it goes to that muti-pin diagnosis thang...three pins..they don't jump to anywhere else anyway...write back
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2008, 02:08 AM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegooch325 View Post
brother--do you mean the crankshaft pulley sensor? (front of motor) if so...it was changed when i put the new harness on...plus, isn't that just for diagnosis...it goes to that muti-pin diagnosis thang...three pins..they don't jump to anywhere else anyway...write back
yep thats the lil' bugger im talking about. but when it was changed, was it new or used? and again, its an electrical part, it could last 5 minutes or 50 years. and also is the gap right?
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:36 AM
thegooch325 thegooch325 is offline
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downhiller my man....
that crank sensor came from a working engine....also...what about the rest of my last posting....i.e. isn't that just for diagnosis? it only goes to that multi pin adaptor with out jumping (connecting) to anywhere else...in other words, the crank sensor pulley has 3 wires, and they go to three pins in that black round connector at the front of the motor...they terminate there...dude, this is driving me nuts....
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2008, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by thegooch325 View Post
downhiller my man....
that crank sensor came from a working engine....also...what about the rest of my last posting....i.e. isn't that just for diagnosis? it only goes to that multi pin adaptor with out jumping (connecting) to anywhere else...in other words, the crank sensor pulley has 3 wires, and they go to three pins in that black round connector at the front of the motor...they terminate there...dude, this is driving me nuts....
that i dont know, but something needs to send a signal to the coil to collapse the charge. i dont know if your car has a cam sensor but on mine, theres only the crank sensor. thats where im kinda lost.
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Old 08-08-2008, 04:13 PM
thegooch325 thegooch325 is offline
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i shoulda mentioned this before...it's an E
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  #8  
Old 08-08-2008, 06:35 PM
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lordofthewaters lordofthewaters is offline
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The crankshaft position sensor is very important to proper engine operation. If it fails or works intermittently, the engine will either barely run or not start at all. Fortunately, the engine's main computer (DME) should indicate whether or not there are problems with the crankshaft position sensor. On some E30 cars (19841987) 325e/s models, there are two sensors that read the toothed crankshaft wheel. When replacing these, double-check that you don't accidentally switch the two sensor plugs. They should be color-coded to match their receptacle plugs.
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordofthewaters View Post
The crankshaft position sensor is very important to proper engine operation. If it fails or works intermittently, the engine will either barely run or not start at all. Fortunately, the engine's main computer (DME) should indicate whether or not there are problems with the crankshaft position sensor. On some E30 cars (19841987) 325e/s models, there are two sensors that read the toothed crankshaft wheel. When replacing these, double-check that you don't accidentally switch the two sensor plugs. They should be color-coded to match their receptacle plugs.
so theres two of these buggers?
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Old 08-10-2008, 12:12 AM
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lordofthewaters lordofthewaters is offline
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Reference sensors in bellhousing. Without them you'll get no spark. Also if the little rectangular markers are broken or missing on the flywheel it'll not spark.
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Last edited by lordofthewaters; 08-10-2008 at 12:26 AM.
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2008, 07:39 AM
thegooch325 thegooch325 is offline
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thanks for the ideas guys....but i already changed the reference and speed sensors...the rectangular marker piece on flywheel is in tact...still no pulse/spark...i would like to mention at this time the following, i removed a bird's nest worth of wires connected to an alarm from under the dask//driver's foot well...it was poorly installed and it had skinned a bunch of factory wires to make connections...i think it also had a kill switch....now any ideas?????
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2008, 08:40 PM
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depends on what the kill switched "killed". i dont think it would just effect the coil, because all the systems ive seen basically killed power to the whole ignition (switch, coil, computers, ect) but there could be the chance that you didnt put something in correctly, or there is something missing, or the coil completely fried (if mentioned new coil in previous posts, sorry i didnt want to reread the whole thing)
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  #13  
Old 09-30-2012, 05:33 PM
Hoser121 Hoser121 is offline
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Hey Gooch just a quick question. I have a 325e with the same two sensors but i'm havin' a bitch of a time getting them out. Take out the allen key bolt and pull...right? Bloddy thing won't budge. Am I missing something?
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  #14  
Old 10-01-2012, 09:41 AM
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Go back and check your thread. I added the steps you missed.
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  #15  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:25 PM
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IT wont start if the fly wheel sensors are crossed. Also, Check their resistance at the pins. Should have a reading between one pair and infinite resistance between the remaining pin and either of the other two. Same system on my E23 - just had to replace them both. To change take out alan bolt ans pull/twist. Don't remove them if they test good - just try changing the plugs over.
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