Stomp vs Code reader

I've done my stomp test and repaired all the code identified parts, 02-both and temp sensor (twice). I'm still getting the same code readings any ideas?

How much difference is there between the code reader, car-soft and the dealer? I hate to drop it off at the dealer if it's an easy fix and I can't afford to drop it off if it's not!

Any help?

Thanks I'll try the ecu now.

Did you delete the codes after the repair ? You'll need to delete them. The stomp test will do that, otherwise you'll just need to disconnect your ecu for 5 minutes.

Do that anyway, then see if the codes return. If they do, well you do have a problem.

Yup...you have to clear the codes or they will show up every time. Even if the CEL isn't lit. I really see no reason whatsoever to own a code reader for an E34.

I can't believe I forgot to clear the ECU!!!!

Worked like a charm, engine light went off, ASC went off. Stomp code now reads, one short, one long. Whatever the hell that means!

Will do a hot-engine speed test later (after my nap). Shocks and thrust arms are next, suspension sounds like a box-O-rocks!

Hot engine test was great! Idles better, runs better, now doing a mileage check. I think I have one small vacuum leak, probably intake gasket.

Mileage has gone from 16.5mpg to 22mpg, and still going up!

Gotta bleed my brakes! Had a bit of a scare yesterday, downhill curving very-rough exit ramp, no brakes, probably no traction, more likely.

Crossed the two battery leads (unconnected), worked like a charm. I'll try the Ecu when I chip-it.

Easier with a code reader. My "timing" with the stomp test was poor, so i bought a reader

Another ECU 'reset' is to disconnect BOTH battery terminals and the join the CAR'S battery wires together for 5 minutes or so. Can make improvements.

Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure

Another ECU 'reset' is to disconnect BOTH battery terminals and the join the CAR'S battery wires together for 5 minutes or so. Can make improvements.

Let me suggest another method that takes almost no time and requires no tools and will not get your hands dirty and will not entail you removing your rear seats.

Just unplug the ecu and plug it in back after 5 minutes. Codes gone.

Try it right now. Create a code on your car by disconnecting the maf while it is running. After 3 minutes, turn off the engine, replug the maf back, and do the stomp test, to confirm that there's a code. Then unplug the ecu and plug it back in after 5 minutes. Then repeat the stomp test. There will be no more codes, Please try it and let us know how it works.

If it fails to work somehow, then repeat the test to recreate the code, unplug the ecu, the key2 the car (ignition key in position 2, position 3 is ignition itself) for 5 minutes, then reassemble everything and repeat the stomp test. Can't remember which works better but the 5 minutes is there to bleed capacitance and residual charge from the ecu that might otherwise keep the code there, I've not been able to confirm or deny if this is necessary, its probably just another urban myth but since its effortless and FREE why not.

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

Let me suggest another method that takes almost no time and requires no tools and will not get your hands dirty and will not entail you removing your rear seats.

Just unplug the ecu and plug it in back after 5 minutes. Codes gone.

Try it right now. Create a code on your car by disconnecting the maf while it is running. After 3 minutes, turn off the engine, replug the maf back, and do the stomp test, to confirm that there's a code. Then unplug the ecu and plug it back in after 5 minutes. Then repeat the stomp test. There will be no more codes, Please try it and let us know how it works.

If it fails to work somehow, then repeat the test to recreate the code, unplug the ecu, the key2 the car (ignition key in position 2, position 3 is ignition itself) for 5 minutes, then reassemble everything and repeat the stomp test. Can't remember which works better but the 5 minutes is there to bleed capacitance and residual charge from the ecu that might otherwise keep the code there, I've not been able to confirm or deny if this is necessary, its probably just another urban myth but since its effortless and FREE why not.

I'd rather do it at the battery. ECU's have plastic that gets brittle and if you don't pull it out straight, it can lead to cold solder joints. After working at an BMW auto wrecker a few years ago, I learned that unnecessarily fiddling with the ECU CAN lead to issues. Just my $.02.

I choose not to touch my e-box unless absolutely required.

Originally Posted by MeanM50

I'd rather do it at the battery. ECU's have plastic that gets brittle and if you don't pull it out straight, it can lead to cold solder joints. After working at an BMW auto wrecker a few years ago, I learned that unnecessarily fiddling with the ECU CAN lead to issues. Just my $.02.

I choose not to touch my e-box unless absolutely required.

I've done this so many times. Its the easiest thing to do...in fact it was designed that way. As you lift the metal clip, the black bus/connector just comes off. No force is needed. I really don't see how you could have damaged anything important.

I leave my ecu box closed by unscrewed nowadays so i don't even need a screwdriver to remove the box and unplug the ecu. Takes me all of 3 minutes to reset the car's computer.

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

I've done this so many times. Its the easiest thing to do...in fact it was designed that way. As you lift the metal clip, the black bus/connector just comes off. No force is needed. I really don't see how you could have damaged anything important.

I leave my ecu box closed by unscrewed nowadays so i don't even need a screwdriver to remove the box and unplug the ecu. Takes me all of 3 minutes to reset the car's computer.

To each his own. I'm just relaying my findings. Cold solder joints don't require a lot of force to dislodge...

Either way, I wouldn't just leave your e-box unscrewed...it's pretty much a water proof box that you are leaving open...doesn't sound wise to me. But it's your car...

Now I'm getting all the 02 sensor codes (again) and the car is running like **** (again). So I'm guessing vacuum leaks and a major intake gasket job? Of course I'm doing the ECU again because it's easy. O2 and Temp sensors are all new. Yup, I did both 02 and the temp sensor twice.

Aren't there TWO o2 sensors on a V8 car?

Originally Posted by MeanM50

To each his own. I'm just relaying my findings. Cold solder joints don't require a lot of force to dislodge...

Either way, I wouldn't just leave your e-box unscrewed...it's pretty much a water proof box that you are leaving open...doesn't sound wise to me. But it's your car...

Okay on the cold solder joints. Anyway, the stomp test gives you a safe way to delete all codes.

My ebox is unscrewed but still placed over the ecus in its usual position. Its still a tight fit due to the rubber linings around the area, so water can't get in. I've hosed down my engine bay several times in the past year with no problems. Thanks for the heads up.