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7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners |
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#1
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DIY - Vacuum Pump Seal Kit & Oil Pressure Switch
I recently noted some oil leaks and figured I'd start with the vacuum pump and oil pressure switch.
For this E65/E66 DIY you'll need: - Oil pressure switch : 12617568480 : 10$ - Vacuum Pump Seal Kit : 11667545384 : 18$ - Hose clamp : 2$ - Vacuum Hose 3,5mmX1,8mmX3m : 10$ - Permatex Form-A-Gasket No. 2 : 10$ - Mobil 1 syntetic grease (or any other) : 10$ - Torque wrench capable of 10 - 20NM - Torx sockets (male & female) - 24mm deep hex socket for sensor - 27mm deep hex socket to crank engine to align vac pump groove Difficulty Level 1-10: 3 To have good access to the sensor I cleared out the area quite a bit. Its a suggestion. Also let the engine cool down. 1) Remove engine accoustic cover 2) Remove air filter housing from MAF 3) Disconnect MAF sensor cable 4) Loosen clamp between MAF and engine intake, remove small hose and rotate MAF 90 degree up 5) Remove radiator fan (see TIS) 6) Remove vacuum pump (see TIS) Note: - you really have to remove the hoses from the bracket. Otherwise you can't get it out. - the small hose attached to my vac pump was really brittle and I had to replace the line. - get about 3m of hose, then you won't be short. RECALL - check if you have oil in the thick tube connected to the vacuum pump. I used a QTip for that. If you do have oil in the hose, the vacuum pump is defective and could damage your brake booster. --------------------------------- Now is a good time to replace the oil pressure sensor. (See TIS) a) Release the plug connector b) Unscrew the sensor c) Put some (LITTLE) Permatex on the middle of the thread. I'd apply it with a QTip. d) Torque to 13NM e) Re-attach connector plug --------------------------------- 7) Once the vacuum pump is out, you can take the cover off, clean the surfaces and replace the inner seal. Some joker had overtorqued one of the bolts, which I had to replace with a 6mm round head. Torque housing bolts to 12NM. 8) The outer seal is replaced last. 9) Reinstall the vac pump with the groove and drive aligned vertical. I put "some" grease on the drive to prevent flopping. Make sure the seal is in place and not being pinched anywhere. 10) Before you put the fasteners back in place, you can slightly rotate the vac pump 5-10 degrees. If you hear a light smacking sound, then its aligned. 11) Torque vacuum pump to cylinder head with 10NM. 12) Attach the hoses to the vacuum pump using a new hose clamp. 14) Put everything back together again. Hope this is a help to someone. Regards, flash-n
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs): ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer next up: headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492 |
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#2
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Great write-up. I did this this past weekend. The tip on cranking the engine with a 27mm socket was super helpful.
On my 2006 E65 I didn't need to remove the radiator fan. Once I took out the passenger side filter box and the engine cover housings, MAF air intake, there was plenty of room for me to work. I used a 4 inch deep female torxx socket for the star bolts on the pump. This helped with the lower bolts. One of the easier jobs I've done. |
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#3
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The seal kit is available at BMPDesign with the following PN 305162.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs): ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer next up: headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492 |
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#4
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Great write ups. Thank you! I am need of some help as soon as possible. I will pay for some telephone or email support if necessary, as I need this car running by morning.
I just replaced my vacuum pump and the 2 seals on each of the 2 solenoids . I also read the TIS. The install seemed to go well, including cranking the engine shaft to vertically align drive. When I started the car. It ran very rough. Passenger side of bank was making missing/knocking noise. I re-installed the pump. Everything seemed to install easy and fine. When I start the card it runs very rough- knocking and missing noise. Please help. Text, call or email. I am on EDT. It is currently 4:56 here. Glenn glenn.gandy@gmail.com 678-576-7287 |
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#5
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Luckily we were able to trace the problem with the install of the solenoids.
We should open a separate thread on the resolution, in case s.o. else runs into the same issues.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs): ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer next up: headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492 |
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#6
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Vacumm pump seals question
Hello,
I'm about to take on this vacumm pump seal problem in the near future. I have an 05 545i. What solenoids are you guys referring to? Do the solenoids have to be removed with installing new gaskets in the vacuum pump? I appreciate this write up! |
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#7
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Hi, the solenoids and the vacuum pump are independent from one another. But you might as well do both jobs when you're in that area anyways.
Intended to do a separate writeup of the solenoids but didn't get around to it. There is some good info in the E65/66 forum.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs): ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer next up: headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492 |
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#8
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Thanks for the follow up. I appreciate the feed-back.
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#9
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Not so easy!!!
Hey guys. I'm working on my friends '07 750Li (E66), and the only thing left to do was the vac. pump. So I went to install it, and it wouldn't go in! I mean, it went in, but not tight. It had about 1/8 of an inch left to go, and it JUST WOULDN'T GO!!! I tried turning the engine over, and nothing. I then tried pulling it in with the bolts, it worked until I started it... and then the case broke.
So I went to a junk yard and got one off a wrecked car (same year and model). After a fight, it went in. But then, about 24 hours later, it started leaking a little, so I pulled it off and cleaned it up. Then, as I was putting it back on, guess what happened... IT WOULD NOT GO IN THE 1/8" AGAIN!!! Now I broke that one (after over an hour of a fight that I apparently lost). WTF am I doing wrong here??? PLEASE HELP ME!!!
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#10
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You are aligning the butterfly tab in the slot (step 9)? This would be the first question coming to my mind.
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Silver 2004 BMW E66 / 745Li (DIYs): ASK, Logic 7, blower, battery, guibo joint, active stabilizer bar bushings, diff oil, tranny sw update, vacuum pump gasket, window lift, a/c compressor, washer fluid reservoir, belt tensioner and deflector, crankcase vacuum hoses, crankcase vents, solenoid gaskets, headlight overhaul, ISM, hood lifts, driver mirror, sway bar end links, rear fog lamps, headlight washer next up: headlight vertical aim, VCGs, P0492 |
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#11
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Every time! At least i think that i am. If i wasn't, would that be the result? An 8th of an inch or less out??? I can't tell you how nuts this has made me!!!
(Image of how far it is still out) Last edited by dgaletar; Yesterday at 04:41 PM. |
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