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E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:11 AM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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Water pump gasket

This has always been a bugger for me. I just put in my fourth and the anxiety that I'm somehow folding or otherwise botching the gasket only to cover it up with several hours of work and then find a coolant leak (happened to me on the second changeout - bummer, man) is palpable. Doesn't help that I do it with the hood on now as replacing the damn thing w/o an assistant is way tough.

So I mentioned this to my warehouse neighbor, a metal fab guy and no slouch mechanic and he suggested temporary studs so I could put the gasket in place on the engine and then place the pump over the studs which would then be remove and replace with the bolts one at a time. Holy crap, why didn't I think of that? I used 1/4 inch wood dowels and it worked like a charm. The dowels could have been shorter but I did a dry run and was able to get it over them easily enough. Too short and it would have been tough to get them out.

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Last edited by cmac2012; 10-10-2012 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:19 PM
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I just coat them with that #2 gasket maker you have rubbed all over the block. And they stay/seal just fine so long as you tighten the pump bolts before you go tensioning the belt.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:46 PM
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Loctite 515 lightly on both sides of the new gasket worked for me.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:54 PM
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high temp rtv here. only, i would do it only on the water pump so it was easier to clean up the block for the "next" mechanic and you can have the bolts in to help keep alignment. always did that when i was workin at the shop.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:49 AM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWISS View Post
I just coat them with that #2 gasket maker you have rubbed all over the block. And they stay/seal just fine so long as you tighten the pump bolts before you go tensioning the belt.
Well yeah, I've tried that too but the poor visibility makes me worry that it might slip while I'm poking around for the bolt holes. The time I screwed up, the gasket had been sort of crooked - not flat, I should have ironed it flat. As it was, it wouldn't stayed glued to the pump well. If it's slightly off center on a hole, the bolt can push it away. Considering the work involved in taking the whole thing apart again, I likle the peace of mind this new method gives me.

My buddy claims that fixed studs in the block are more expensive than bolts so manufacturers often go with bolts. Threaded studs would make for an easier and more reliable job.
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Last edited by cmac2012; 10-11-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
Well yeah, I've tried that too but the poor visibility makes me worry that it might slip while I'm poking around for the bolt holes. The time I screwed up, the gasket had been sort of crooked - not flat, I should have ironed it flat. As it was, it wouldn't stayed glued to the pump well. If it's slightly off center on a hole, the bolt can push it away. Considering the work involved in taking the whole thing apart again, I likle the peace of mind this new method gives me.

My buddy claims that fixed studs in the block are more expensive than bolts so manufacturers often go with bolts. Threaded studs would make for an easier and more reliable job.
HA! Would also make for a front clip removal to slide the pump off the dang studs!

I have done this with the rad in and out and the only time it ever gave me grief was the time I replaced the pump with the T belt on. What really sucks is when you get a crappy reman WP not a Graff and the impeller hits the block and you get to do it again !!
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