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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #176  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:08 PM
BMR_LVR's Avatar
BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
Ok so I just got some terrible news.
Chris over at Turner Motorsports says they do not make a chip for a 318 4cyl with EWS II
Bypass for my Silver DME

Scrap yard lol
That's what I was afraid of

One last option before junking ..... but it's very involved ..... you could do a motor and tranny swap (ideally a 5 speed) to a M50. You can probably find a good M50 and 5 speed tranny for approx $800. You would need the wiring harness as well.

I don't know how nice the shell is on your 318. It may be better to part it out and then take it to a junk yard for scrap.

Sorry to hear this outcome
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 10-10-2012 at 06:10 PM.
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  #177  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:09 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Whatever gave you the idea that an ecu for a 6 cylinder engine would work for your 4 cylinder one? The ecu is one of the most customised aspects of the car. This was a very bad piece of thinking on your end and leads me to suspect that you make alot of unforced errors which means you're going to create new problems as you fix old ones, or at least, spend alot more time and money to fix the old problems.

When dealing with faults, the person who is standing at the car is always going to be in a far better position to observe and tackle problems. We over at another computer screen are very limited, precisely because we lack primary observation and an intuitive feel that comes from being right there.

Please just purchase the exact same ecu or one like it and get rolling. Sell off the one you bought to someone else on Ebay to minimise your wastage.

Before all of this, try your old ECU again, with the EWS deleted. ANd Ebay has 72 listings on your ecu, including upgraded eproms which enhanced fuel air maps and the EWS bypassed as well. This assumes of course that the motherboard on your old ecu works fine.

Your crank sensor needs to be checked - it is probably responsible for this problem. Disconnect it and check for continuity. Look up google, youtube and the bentley manual for help figuring this out if you're not sure. In any case, it is a good idea to change the crank sensor to a new one (oem only) as it usually fails unexpectedly creating a no-start situation....so stay ahead of the curve before things happen.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-10-2012 at 06:22 PM.
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  #178  
Old 10-10-2012, 06:48 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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What would give a person the idea that all red 413s are for 6 cylinder cars?
I have NEVER read anything concering that EVER, guess guys and gals just take for granted everyone has the M50.

I never blamed anyone on here for anything ever!
I'm just want to get the car to run.

So if I buy a new DME will I have to take it to the dealer for programming?

I've made lots of mistakes in my life and this isnt one of them, I have car that failed all on its own. Kinda hard to stay ahead of the curve with EWSII lurking.

Thanks for all the help, I can buy a new DME then off to the dealer I guess right?
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  #179  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:04 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post


got the idea from this
That was a great video. It is almost identical to what I did. I was told to also cut and bridge another couple of wires which was apparentley not necessary.

If you look at the video at 13:19, you will get a glimpse that this was an E36 with the M50 engine. The guy in the vid never divulged that. I wish he had. He may have saved you some trouble.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #180  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:06 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
What would give a person the idea that all red 413s are for 6 cylinder cars?
I have NEVER read anything concering that EVER, guess guys and gals just take for granted everyone has the M50.

I never blamed anyone on here for anything ever!
I'm just want to get the car to run.

So if I buy a new DME will I have to take it to the dealer for programming?

I've made lots of mistakes in my life and this isnt one of them, I have car that failed all on its own. Kinda hard to stay ahead of the curve with EWSII lurking.

Thanks for all the help, I can buy a new DME then off to the dealer I guess right?
You are pretty incoherent. I would suggest that you get a mechanic to help you with this, despite the higher cost.

If your EWS2 has been bypassed, why do you need to take your ecu to the dealer? The immobiliser system has been deactivated manually, and so nothing needs to be recoded to synch with your key etc.

Before you do a certain repair, you must read up more about it to understand how the component involved works and its purpose. This is part of the sacrifices that must be made if you are going to fix your car yourself and you're not a trained mechanic or automotive engineer. This is a worthwhile sacrifice to make because you are learning more about your own car, which is generally always fun anyway.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-10-2012 at 07:15 PM.
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  #181  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:11 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
What would give a person the idea that all red 413s are for 6 cylinder cars?
I have NEVER read anything concering that EVER, guess guys and gals just take for granted everyone has the M50.

I never blamed anyone on here for anything ever!
I'm just want to get the car to run.

So if I buy a new DME will I have to take it to the dealer for programming?

I've made lots of mistakes in my life and this isnt one of them, I have car that failed all on its own. Kinda hard to stay ahead of the curve with EWSII lurking.

Thanks for all the help, I can buy a new DME then off to the dealer I guess right?
You can buy another DME, but you need to first determine if that the DME itself is the actual problem. Are you sure that the problem was not the EWS? If it was and you buy another DME, then I think you will have the same problem and will have wasted a lot of money.

Somewhere in my original post, there was a link to a company that can test and repair your DME for you, if it is indeed your DME and not the EWS module. I don't recall if they do it for the 318, but it is worth a shot. If they do, I think the cost is around $400 which is a lot better than the ~$1200 - $1300 you will have to pay with a new DME and reprogramming by BMW. If it turns out that your DME is okay, they only charge $50.

I encourage you to not be too rash and in too much of a hurry. Try to make sure that you diagnose exactly what the problem is. It could be any of the EWS components such as the antenna ring.

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck and will try to assist in any way I can.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #182  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:20 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Sir, he has bypassed the EWS system so it and any of its components cannot be a factor any longer.

I think he had a simple CPS (crankshaft position sensor) problem. Got jumpy and attacked the ews system instead. His original ecu probably works just fine. He should change the CPS, which is something that needs to be done anyway as old ones fail without warning, and if that doesn't help, and if the fuel pump and relay is tested and fine and fuel is flowing at the engine (proving that the filter is not clogged) then it is probably the ecu.
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  #183  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:24 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Oh btw, do not inject starting fluid into your AFM. You might damage the heated wires in there. Starting fluid should only be injected through the throttle body, or into the air filter box.

Instead of starting fluid, you can also use carburetor cleaner.

And pull the error codes from your car. The problem you now have is probably already listed there with the component responsible as well. Do the stomp test. Don't know if that works on your car, but google for more information about how you can pull the error codes from your 318is on your own and without a code reader.
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  #184  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:20 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Sir, he has bypassed the EWS system so it and any of its components cannot be a factor any longer.

I think he had a simple CPS (crankshaft position sensor) problem. Got jumpy and attacked the ews system instead. His original ecu probably works just fine. He should change the CPS, which is something that needs to be done anyway as old ones fail without warning, and if that doesn't help, and if the fuel pump and relay is tested and fine and fuel is flowing at the engine (proving that the filter is not clogged) then it is probably the ecu.
I agree that he needs to rule other things out such as the CPS. However, I'm not sure if simply cutting the green wire deletes the EWS to the point that the original DME can be used. That is why either a EWS delete chip must be used or the EWS delete wiring modification must be used in conjunction with a red label 413 DME swap (for the M50).

Also, with all due respect Roberto, please refrain from using such judgmental rhetoric in your responses. I cringe when I read some of the things you write disparaging someone's attempts to repair their beloved cars. Let's keep a positive and helpful attitude. This fella has in no way shown himself to be a big wanker, so cut him a little slack please.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 10-10-2012 at 08:22 PM.
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  #185  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:03 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
I agree that he needs to rule other things out such as the CPS. However, I'm not sure if simply cutting the green wire deletes the EWS to the point that the original DME can be used. That is why either a EWS delete chip must be used or the EWS delete wiring modification must be used in conjunction with a red label 413 DME swap (for the M50).

Also, with all due respect Roberto, please refrain from using such judgmental rhetoric in your responses. I cringe when I read some of the things you write disparaging someone's attempts to repair their beloved cars. Let's keep a positive and helpful attitude. This fella has in no way shown himself to be a big wanker, so cut him a little slack please.

I stand corrected on both counts. My apologies to ttaylo036.

.
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  #186  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:09 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
You are pretty incoherent. I would suggest that you get a mechanic to help you with this, despite the higher cost.

If your EWS2 has been bypassed, why do you need to take your ecu to the dealer? The immobiliser system has been deactivated manually, and so nothing needs to be recoded to synch with your key etc.

Before you do a certain repair, you must read up more about it to understand how the component involved works and its purpose. This is part of the sacrifices that must be made if you are going to fix your car yourself and you're not a trained mechanic or automotive engineer. This is a worthwhile sacrifice to make because you are learning more about your own car, which is generally always fun anyway.
I agree.... I do over think sometimes and your boldness gives me even more insite, so thank you.

If I understand you correctly I can:
buy a used silver ecu off ebay assuming it works and plug it into my car and it just might run? I'm starting to see since I already bypassed the EWSII the key the key ring wont matter. Look on Ebay (when you get time) and tell me which one may be my best option as you mentioned mods that people have already done that may help my car. I will buy it.

I'll check the CPS tomorrow aswell.


I also put my original silver ECU back into the car with the EWS II bypassed and the green wire cut and it still would not start but cranks. Fuel pump tested ok. Fuel Pressure tested ok when used with a jumper.

Thanks everyone for your help.
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  #187  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:12 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
I stand corrected on both counts. My apologies to ttaylo036.

.
No apologies to me, this is all part of my learning curve- I'm sure someone else will have this same issue.
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  #188  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:16 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
You can buy another DME, but you need to first determine if that the DME itself is the actual problem. Are you sure that the problem was not the EWS? If it was and you buy another DME, then I think you will have the same problem and will have wasted a lot of money.

Somewhere in my original post, there was a link to a company that can test and repair your DME for you, if it is indeed your DME and not the EWS module. I don't recall if they do it for the 318, but it is worth a shot. If they do, I think the cost is around $400 which is a lot better than the ~$1200 - $1300 you will have to pay with a new DME and reprogramming by BMW. If it turns out that your DME is okay, they only charge $50.

I encourage you to not be too rash and in too much of a hurry. Try to make sure that you diagnose exactly what the problem is. It could be any of the EWS components such as the antenna ring.

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck and will try to assist in any way I can.
DME repair is a great option, thanks for ALL your help
BTW I cut the antenna ring green wires when I did the EWS bypass, was told the antenna could still be sending a signal to the EWSII.
Also if the Crank Sensor is bad would the engine crank?

My problems started with a 'no start no crank"

Last edited by ttaylo036; 10-10-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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  #189  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:19 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
I agree.... I do over think sometimes and your boldness gives me even more insite, so thank you.

If I understand you correctly I can:
buy a used silver ecu off ebay assuming it works and plug it into my car and it just might run? I'm starting to see since I already bypassed the EWSII the key the key ring wont matter. Look on Ebay (when you get time) and tell me which one may be my best option as you mentioned mods that people have already done that may help my car. I will buy it.

I'll check the CPS tomorrow aswell.


I also put my original silver ECU back into the car with the EWS II bypassed and the green wire cut and it still would not start but cranks. Fuel pump tested ok. Fuel Pressure tested ok when used with a jumper.

Thanks everyone for your help.
Hi,

It really would be better if you started a fresh thread to focus on this. This thread was for EWS deletes alone.

I'm afraid that I won't be able to help you check out the ECUs. Please do alot of reading online.

As Bentley's Ghost (that's bmwlvr ) pointed out, I may be wrong about my understanding of the ecu's function in the EWS setup.

If the EWS system is also a part of the ecu, and if your existing ecu is indeed screwed, then any ecu that you purchase would likely have the EWS problem as it wouldn't recognise your car. You would need to buy an EWS delete chip along with a spare ecu, and swop that chip in.

The good thing about those ews delete chips would be that they contain better fuel-air maps. Your car will run better. Thus, you end up turning a repair into an upgrade, which is always a nice silver lining to have.

You need to read more about exactly how this EWS thing works. I forgot, it was many moons ago. Please read the first post in this thread. There should be a link to an external website where another dude has detailed exactly how it works. We used his instructions to delete the EWS system.
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  #190  
Old 10-11-2012, 07:00 AM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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^^^ there are no chips to delete the EWSII for a 318I 4cyl......just sayin
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  #191  
Old 10-11-2012, 07:34 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
^^^ there are no chips to delete the EWSII for a 318I 4cyl......just sayin
Ok. Please change your CPS and see if the car starts up with your existing ECU.

Did your engine crank BEFORE the ews delete ? Or only after the delete ?

Can you check if the stomp test or something similar works on your car and check your car for error codes ?

Have you downloaded and flipped through the Bentley manual ?

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-11-2012 at 07:39 AM.
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  #192  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:55 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Hello ttaylo036 (I wish I knew your actual first name). I have been contemplating your problem. To me, the key to resolving your problem is to accurately diagnose the problem. When I did my DME swap that prompted this thread, I essentially ruled out all other problems before determining that my problem was a failed DME. Iím still not convinced that the actual fault in your system has been determined.

In thinking that the problem may be the DME, I called the people at Specialized ECU Repair (BMWDME.com) in hopes that they could re-program your DME to remove the EWS feature from it. Unfortunately, they said that they donít have that capability. They also do not do any work on EWS modules. They can however evaluate the DME. If it is found to not be defective, they would charge you $50. It if is found to be defective and they can repair it, the cost would be $475. If you were to consider this, please call them to confirm the information. If you were to send your DME in for analysis/repair, and the DME is faulty and can be repaired, then that may indeed be your problem. If the DME is found to be okay, then you will have to look at other things.

Hereís what I would do if I were in your shoes. I would recommend that you return everything to stock, i.e., repair all of the wiring changes you have made and return the original DME to the car. Do the stomp test and see if there are any fault codes stored. If so, let us know what they are. Some may be stored from where you have tried things such as trying to crank the car with the fuel pump relay jumped. If that is the case, I think I would recommend that you delete the error codes either through the stomp test or by leaving the DME disconnected for 5-10 minutes.

I do not concur with buying a new CPS unless you have checked the old one with an ohm meter first. The resistance should be 540 +/- 10%. The Bentley manual had an error and shows 1280 +/- 10%. This was a typo. If the CPS ohms out within specs, then that is not likely the problem.

After doing this, try to crank the car and see what happens. If all lights light up and everything seems normal except that the engine will not respond at all to turning the key to position 3 (engine cranking position), then I think that would lead you to a faulty EWS module. I do not know what the cost of a new EWS module and re-synching would be at BMW. You could call and see. It is possible that it could be any component of the EWS system.

Ultimately, you may have to bite the bullet and take it to either a qualified and trusted independent BMW mechanic or to the BMW dealer.

I hope that some of this has helped and I wish you the best in getting it resolved. Please do keep us updated.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #193  
Old 10-12-2012, 07:01 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Ok. Please change your CPS and see if the car starts up with your existing ECU. Did that no change


Did your engine crank BEFORE the ews delete ? NO

Or only after the delete ? YES

Can you check if the stomp test or something similar works on your car and check your car for error codes ? NO CODES

Have you downloaded and flipped through the Bentley manual ?YES
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  #194  
Old 10-12-2012, 07:22 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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How about finding a dme for a e36 318 pre ews2 era ?

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  #195  
Old 10-12-2012, 07:53 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
Ok. Please change your CPS and see if the car starts up with your existing ECU. Did that no change


Did your engine crank BEFORE the ews delete ? NO

Or only after the delete ? YES

Can you check if the stomp test or something similar works on your car and check your car for error codes ? NO CODES

Have you downloaded and flipped through the Bentley manual ?YES
I'm sorry to see that you are still having trouble. I hope you didn't buy a new CPS without checking the resistance of the old one first. I fear that you may be in dire straights if the EWS has failed. It seems that you don't have the option of EWS delete like we do with the M50.

As Supertech777 mentioned, it may be worth it to find a used DME for a pre-95 318 and see if the EWS delete procedure used on the M50 will work. It's worth a shot and may only cost you about $60-$75 for the DME.

Earlier I had mentioned the possibility of a motor swap to a M50. As I said, that would be a very big project. However, I looked up the 318 motor (I admit I know very little about it) and it appears that your 318 has the M42B18. It appears that this is the same engine used in the E36 318 for all years (I am speaking of North America models only however). If that is indeed the case, then I would think there is one more option; still a pretty big project, but not as big as an engine swap.

Here's the possible idea: Perhaps you could get the wiring harness from a pre-95 318 (including the pre-95 DME) and swap it into your 95 model I can't think of a reason you could not do this. The harness could be sourced from a local pick and pull type salvage yard.

Your thoughts? (and an other interested parties?)
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 10-12-2012 at 07:55 PM.
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  #196  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:22 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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Hi Steve ! , but wouldnt the wiring harness be the same for a 93-94 318 and the 95 model , since he already spliced and cut the wires for the delete procedure . I'm just wondering cause the e34 pre ews2 is the same for the 95 e34 . Gosh this it would be cool to fix this and you can add it to this thread ... Regards
Noel

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  #197  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:34 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Originally Posted by supertech777 View Post
Hi Steve ! , but wouldnt the wiring harness be the same for a 93-94 318 and the 95 model , since he already spliced and cut the wires for the delete procedure . I'm just wondering cause the e34 pre ews2 is the same for the 95 e34 . Gosh this it would be cool to fix this and you can add it to this thread ... Regards
Noel
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
As Supertech777 mentioned, it may be worth it to find a used DME for a pre-95 318 and see if the EWS delete procedure used on the M50 will work. It's worth a shot and may only cost you about $60-$75 for the DME.
As seen above, I agree with you on trying a pre-95 DME for the 318 and try the EWS delete mod as it is with the 6 cylinder. I think this would be the best option to try first. Thus far, I am not finding any information that indicates that the EWS delete mod we used on our M50's will work on the M42 in the 318. If ttaylo036 were to try it ..... and it worked ..... that would be so

The wiring harness for the pre-95 318 would not be the same since it did not have the EWS as far as I know. That's also why he would need a DME that goes with the pre-95 harness.

If it doesn't work, then the wiring harness swap is an option as far as I know. I would think it would be better than scrapping the car. Heck, if ttaylo036 couldn't get it done, he could still part out and/or scrap the car. I just hate to see a Bimmer go to the bone yard simply due to a security system anomaly limited only to the 1995 model
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #198  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:46 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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If he could get a wiring harness from an earlier 318, he can surely get the ecu from that.

The wiring harnesses pre ews and post ews should merely have additional wires for the ews system and not swop anything else around. I believe this is the case because there are empty leads on the computer clamp that goes on top of the ecu. If you take it up and look underneath, you'll see where leads poke into the plastic mesh and where they don't. It is designed this way to allow easy wiring upgrades with minimal redesign.

The wiring harness swop would be a very extensive affair. It would be less expensive than an engine swop, but I would prefer an engine swop because really the 318 is damn slow compared to a m50b25.

That being said.....an engine upgrade would also involve upgrading the transmission. Way too much money.

Dude, source for a pre ews2 ecu online or by calling the yards around (not all the yards will list their stuff online, you'll have to call). If not, then have your existing ecu repaired. There are no other practical options. Swopping wiring harnesses will, considering the delicate nature of the task, could cause far more problems than they solve. Getting a new ecu without the ews system, repairing your current ecu, or even getting a different ews2 ecu and then having the dealers code it to work with your car, would be a far better plug and play solution. Of course, anything involving the dealers will be costly and will require your car to be towed there which adds to the expense. So I'd suggest you spend a day scouting around for a 318is ecu.

In fact, its quite probable that any m42b18 ecu would work on your car. You might not need one specifically from an e36 coupe.
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  #199  
Old 10-12-2012, 09:07 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Here you go, at $100.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-BMW-E3...0d27d0&vxp=mtr

If it doesn't work, you can always resell it. ECUs are always in demand dude.

ANd here's an EWS delete chip :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-318i-is-...26571b&vxp=mtr


It pays to take time searching through Ebay. Sometimes you might need to ask the sellers some questions and wait for a reply to confirm things.

Steve, do you think his ECU is screwed ? If so, then my recommendation to you is to purchase the cheapest working 318is ecu that you can find, and if it has the EWS function (and there are many that don't, from the listing years in the auction), then purchase a delete chip and plonk that in. The delete chips will also have performance upgrades, and you'll get a nippier car ! Always turn a repair into an upgrade wherever possible, not just in cars, but in life.
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  #200  
Old 10-12-2012, 09:12 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I did a search on ebay for the following phrases.

" 318is ecu dme "
" 318is performance chip "

...and I looked through the description in some of the listed auctions. Those for the performance chip do state that the EWS function has been removed. Please correspond directly with the sellers for precise information.

Please take action on this immediately and let us know. The problem has been solved. I wouldn't worry about the money your spent on your new CPS. That's an important anticipatory repair and will eliminate some common no-start situations for BMWs. Good move. You'll also need to purchase an oem fuel pump relay and an oem fuel pump. Please do those within the next 3 months and have them installed. Your car will likely never suffer a no start issue ever.

And if I were you, I would purchase an additional spare ECU and just keep it with me in the car. If you ever sell off the car, you can separately sell off the ECU for at least the same price as you bought it. With our older cars, it is only prudent to invest in insurances such as these.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-12-2012 at 09:55 PM.
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