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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 10-10-2012, 09:31 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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injector 325i

Im having a problem with excess carbon from my exaust i was wondering how difficult removing the intake / injectors . Also my idle cotrol is bad but does that effect driving down the road at 70? No one in my county will work on bmw the only guy that can hates them and i wanna do it myself as well as that i do not know how to read the led bar graph and is the "brake lining" light mean air in lines or brake pad wear? I have a load of questions what size is the wheel bolts
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  #2  
Old 10-11-2012, 04:21 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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carboned exhaust, bad FPR or in need of a tune up

brake lining, the pads need to be replaced. replace the pads and rotors, but match what you change. so if you have bmw pads, use bmw rotors: aftermarket pads, use aftermarket rotors.

LEDs, when red, change oil then reset.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:02 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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How should i go about tuning up whats steps and what is the fpm? And for the bar graph if my battery was diconnected would that reset it? Making it innacurate? And do i have to replace rotors everytime?

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  #4  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:03 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Fpr

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  #5  
Old 10-11-2012, 08:14 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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tune up, plugs, wires (if you have the cash), cap and rotor, air filter and oil change.

fpr, fuel pressure regulator. little bugger that sits at the front for the fuel rail. you could also have a bad vacuum line to the fpr.

to reset the light, you have to jumper 2 pins in the diagnosis plug in the engine compartment. theres plenty of write ups on here on what 2 wires to jump.

on the brakes, this is where it gets tricky. if you were the original owner and had it serviced, then you have a good idea on what rotors and pads you have on there. if you dont, its safer to change both. the reason being, bmw uses a softer pad compound and rotor material, thus giving better braking and extended life (wrap that around you brain). aftermarket pads and rotors are a harder compound, so if you mix and match, youll burn through say the bmw rotors with aftermarket pads alot quicker and be back in square one. this advice comes from the parts guy at the bmw dealer and agreed upon by various bmw mechanics on the brake thing.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:24 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Outstanding! Your help is so pinpoint i dont have to guess at anything! And i will check on that to see about cost i wanna pretty much change everything well replace at least and one more if you dont mind how do i get to fuel pump (for future need) and how and where do i test fuel pressure? Sorry for so many questions im 18 and its hard to get good answers from oriellys and autozone when they are only good for looking up the part and telling price

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Old 10-11-2012, 08:51 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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As well when i sit at a stop light a few places have long ones from overpasses and such my rpms will go lower and lower until there sitting at 500 rpms just above dying. Why?

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  #8  
Old 10-12-2012, 06:05 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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yours has a single pump in the gas tank. remove the rear seat and on the passenger side theres a cover and that leads you right to the top of the fuel pump. fuel pressure test youll have to put a T fitting inline somewhere to put a gauge on.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:10 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Thats great knowing i don't have to drop the tank and how much to gauges run to test it
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2012, 06:12 PM
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dont know. last time i did a fuel pressure test was in 2006 at the shop i was working at.
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  #11  
Old 10-12-2012, 06:30 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Try a hire shop for the gauge and a hose fittings shop for the connectors to 'T' in once you have the gauge. Tell them it is for oil pressure - does not scare them so much. 100psi full scale.
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2012, 06:34 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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So it should be 100psi if pressure is correct? And a tire shop should have an oil gauge?

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  #13  
Old 10-12-2012, 07:17 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Fuel pressure should be 40psi (approx). 100psi unit for safety. I doubt a tire shop would have the oil pressure gauge??? I poster HIRE shop - Tool Hire.
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  #14  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:02 PM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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Apologies i thought typo for some reason and props to you two i removed my rear seat ( just pops out) ten times easier then i thought found the panel and wala there it was tomorrow im gonna pull it and have a look at its condition so i know if replacing would be good for future my gas gauge is semi accurate ( wiggles a little back and forth) but as long as my low fuel light works im satisfied for now thanks again for the help i'd be droping the tank or at least trying to had i not found you guys

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  #15  
Old 10-12-2012, 08:42 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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You can't tell much about a pump by looking at it. Flow and pressure are the only telling factors. Both can be done from under the bonnet (hood). Other items to check/have checked - rig test clean of injectors (IMO don't use 'injector cleaner') and clean ICM.
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Current:
E23 735i; E30 318i; E32 735iL (X 2 - 1 Alpine White and 1 Glacier Blue); E34 535i; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman.
Previous:
E21 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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  #16  
Old 10-13-2012, 10:56 AM
BMWEnthus BMWEnthus is offline
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How do I rig test and what's the best way to clean them

This captain goes down with the ship
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