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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:57 PM
Jinx the kid Jinx the kid is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Question Help cant figure out why car overheats :mad:

Ok first off hey guys

I own a 1997 528i that was given by my dad. my stepmom owned it and basically destroyed it she had some random guy change the fan clutch that was defective by the way and he crack my fan shroud Anywho fast forward I replaced the clutch fan shroud and it was still overheating I flushed the system out and that sloved the problem but I had cracked a head seeing as tho i didnt put the drain plug back on correctly I end up putting blue devil in it and I was good to go I drove it for about three weeks and every now and then the temp would move up then go to normal when i speed up eventually it got to the point where i couldnt drive it at all with out it jumping into the hot zone. The problem now is that the coolant is leaking from the reservoir cap. my uncle said it was the water pump and so I got a new water pump put it on which was a bish by the way filled it up and drove it around the block it did good for a while them you guessed it HOT HOT HOT i parked it and antifreeze came pouring out it seems i didnt tighten the radiator hose tight enough, but even after that I fill it up again and bleed it let it sit nothing I drove off and immediately it started climbing again like WTF i bled it and everything yet it overheats the thermostat is open its got coolant its ok when its idle but as soon as I start driving it overheats and yet again the coolant leaks from the reservoir cap PLEASE PLEASE any suggestions on what can it be im going crazy tryna figure this damn car out

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 10-15-2012, 03:09 PM
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rrtec rrtec is offline
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Sounds like the Blue Devil didnt fix the headgasket issue..... Also sounds like you did much more damage to the car than "some guy" who cracked the shroud.....

These cars can be a pain to bleed, I would try bleeding it again, get the front end of the car up in the air about 2 feet if possible.. But sounds like the system is taking on pressure from a cracked or warped head/block.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2012, 05:11 PM
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bkgreene39 bkgreene39 is offline
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It is child's play to bleed the M52. I didn't realize how easy it was until i tried it.

You state in your post that there is coolant leaking from the cap, yet you change the water pump and not the cap? Perhaps the leak from cap is excess coolant when you were bleeding the system. If not change the cap, at this point it doesn't hurt.

Bleed the system properly. Get underneath the car if possible(ramps, jacks etc etc) check for any leaks that can be observed. If all else fails then you will have to try and do compression test and figure out if it is indeed the engine that is the culprit. Perhaps there is a hose by the intake manifold that is troublesome? Either way get underneath and check. Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:40 AM
Jinx the kid Jinx the kid is offline
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How do you know when it's been fully bled cuz I believe I did that before I started driving it. I take the screw out and pour the coolant in the reservoir I see the steam coming out then after a while the coolant starts gushing from the hole that's how I think I'm bleeding it ... Is that the correct way?
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2012, 10:04 AM
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=449008
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2012, 10:13 AM
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bkgreene39 bkgreene39 is offline
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This is a very helpful diy, and its a great thread. The other link posted in post #5 is helpful as well however i found some of the post confusing therefore making the bleeding procedure feel like its rocket science.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=558386

Make sure that when you bleed the vehicle it is cold. You should not have any "steam" coming out. Just coolant protruding from the thermostat bleeder screw, then move to the expansion tank bleeder screw. Once the bubbles are extracted from the thermostat housing, put the bleeder screw in. Same for expansion tank. Make sure that your coolant temp gauge is solid at 12 o'clock.

Last edited by bkgreene39; 10-16-2012 at 10:21 AM.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2012, 10:37 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This set of references is for people with severe engine damage ...

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to test an engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) (2) & replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & the most recent real-world results from the last 50 people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) (31) (32) (33) (34) (35) (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) (46) (47) (48) (49) (50)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #8  
Old 10-17-2012, 04:19 AM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinx the kid View Post
Ok first off hey guys

I own a 1997 528i that was given by my dad. my stepmom owned it and basically destroyed it she had some random guy change the fan clutch that was defective by the way and he crack my fan shroud Anywho fast forward I replaced the clutch fan shroud and it was still overheating I flushed the system out and that sloved the problem but I had cracked a head seeing as tho i didnt put the drain plug back on correctly I end up putting blue devil in it and I was good to go I drove it for about three weeks and every now and then the temp would move up then go to normal when i speed up eventually it got to the point where i couldnt drive it at all with out it jumping into the hot zone. The problem now is that the coolant is leaking from the reservoir cap. my uncle said it was the water pump and so I got a new water pump put it on which was a bish by the way filled it up and drove it around the block it did good for a while them you guessed it HOT HOT HOT i parked it and antifreeze came pouring out it seems i didnt tighten the radiator hose tight enough, but even after that I fill it up again and bleed it let it sit nothing I drove off and immediately it started climbing again like WTF i bled it and everything yet it overheats the thermostat is open its got coolant its ok when its idle but as soon as I start driving it overheats and yet again the coolant leaks from the reservoir cap PLEASE PLEASE any suggestions on what can it be im going crazy tryna figure this damn car out

Thanks in advance
1. Bleed it PROPERLY, then see if it is still overheating.
2. If it is still overheating, get a Bentley manual and pull that head (PM me if you need a Bentley). Get it to a shop for compression check, acid bath, and magnaflux. REMOVE, LABEL AND INSPECT VALVES BEFORE you take it to the machine shop.
3. Buy a VANOS seal from Besian and replace that.
4. If the head is beyond repair, get a replacement head and start the rebuild with NEW valve stem seals and a gasket kit. If it's a used head, get it checked and machined. still have to replace the valve stem seals and do a valve job.

Change your injector o-rings while you're there, change out your fan clutch, radiator, belts, and tensioners. Change your oil (no brainer), spark plugs, vacuum hoses, CCV and hoses, and exhaust manifold nuts (they have to be new, so do to the head bolts). Get to Harbor Freight for a good torque wrench. Check those plastic chain guides for cracks and breakage, replace if necessary (they are cheap enough, might as well get new ones). LAP ALL 24 VALVES and CLEAN THE PORTS. Disassemble, inspect, label, and clean all 24 valve lifters. Replace any that are bad. Disassemble lifters, clean thoroughly (I soaked in degreaser to remove the glaze from under the plunger), then reassemble lifters with oil, coat lifters and valve stems with assembly lube before replacing into the head.

1997 overhead rebuild described above should run you no more than $900-$1000 depending on how many lifters/valves you have to buy. Label everything, including every last vacuum hose to be replaced and where it is supposed to plug into. Remove your camshaft PER THE BENTLEY MANUAL, or you run the risk of bending/breaking it. Use assembly lube very liberally when reassembling.

That engine will run like new when you are done.

Last edited by jarhed1964; 10-17-2012 at 04:24 AM.
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  #9  
Old 10-23-2012, 12:50 PM
Jinx the kid Jinx the kid is offline
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So the problem was that the blue devil didn't fully do the job my uncle put some more in and I drove the car around its maintaing normal temp.

Only thing that's bothering me is when I'm in drive and still the car vibrates. I looked at the engine while in idle it shakes a little. Do you think the blue devil is the costs cuz it didn't use to shake before hand?
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  #10  
Old 10-23-2012, 01:56 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
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Any CEL codes?

I understand Blue Devil is some very highly regarded head gasket sealer, but I personally wouldn't even consider thinking about it as a long term fix. I can't imagine what small passages that stuff is clogging up right now. I personally believe you need to break down and do what I described above. It really isn't a difficult job (I did the exact same car in December) and will cost you MUCH less than a new engine.
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  #11  
Old 10-23-2012, 04:10 PM
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moots moots is offline
wat's dat noise
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go get a compression test done.no amount of blue or red devil will cure this.those devils are just temp fixes to get you home.if it;s the head gasket or cracked head....change is imminenet.
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  #12  
Old 10-23-2012, 04:38 PM
jarhed1964 jarhed1964 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moots View Post
go get a compression test done.no amount of blue or red devil will cure this.those devils are just temp fixes to get you home.if it;s the head gasket or cracked head....change is imminenet.
This ^^^
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2012, 02:08 AM
520itouring 520itouring is offline
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Have you checked the actual expansion tanks cap? The pressure seal tends to go when the car overheats over long periods of time. Try swapping with a family or friend. Shouldn't cost the earth from a scrappy.

Have you had the thermostat checked? When it overhears turn your heating on full temp at half speed and if it reduces the overheat it's probably the thermostat.
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2012, 05:48 AM
Jinx the kid Jinx the kid is offline
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Any CEL codes?



I understand Blue Devil is some very highly regarded head gasket sealer, but I personally wouldn't even consider thinking about it as a long term fix. I can't imagine what small passages that stuff is clogging up right now. I personally believe you need to break down and do what I described above. It really isn't a difficult job (I did the exact same car in December) and will cost you MUCH less than a new engine.




What are the tools you need to repair the head gasket?
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528i, cooling system, help advice newbie, leaking, overheat, reservoir, waterpump


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