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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #201  
Old 10-13-2012, 07:18 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Here you go, at $100.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-92-BMW-E3...0d27d0&vxp=mtr

If it doesn't work, you can always resell it. ECUs are always in demand dude.

ANd here's an EWS delete chip :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-318i-is-...26571b&vxp=mtr


It pays to take time searching through Ebay. Sometimes you might need to ask the sellers some questions and wait for a reply to confirm things.

Steve, do you think his ECU is screwed ? If so, then my recommendation to you is to purchase the cheapest working 318is ecu that you can find, and if it has the EWS function (and there are many that don't, from the listing years in the auction), then purchase a delete chip and plonk that in. The delete chips will also have performance upgrades, and you'll get a nippier car ! Always turn a repair into an upgrade wherever possible, not just in cars, but in life.
A few thoughts.

First of all, the DME listed in the Ebay link you provided clearly states it is for the E30 chassis only. ttalylo036 has an E36, not an E30. While the engines are both M42, I do believe there are differences. Specifically, the E30 M42 was a single cam design and the E36 M42 was a dual cam design with a DISA valve. So, the DME you listed would not work.

Regarding the link to the EWS delete chip, note a couple of things. Firstly, the seller indicates that the DME will work for 318s manufactured from 1992 up to 1995/6. If ttalylo036ís car was manufactured after June 1995, then the chip will not work. My assumption is that the EWS system was installed in the 318 with a manufacture date of 7/95 and after. Also note that in the description, it indicates ďno EWS functionĒ, not ďEWS deleteĒ. Those two statements are not the same. My thinking is that the chip will work for pre-EWS cars, but not cars equipped with EWS. I do not believe that this chip would work for ttaylo036. I would like to know the date of manufacture on ttaylo036ís car (could you oblige us sir? Itís located on the sill plate when you open the driverís door).

ttaylo036 indicated that a delete chip for the 318 is not available. For some reason, I seem to recall that he called Turner Motorsports on that and, if anyone would know, they would. Again, the key phrase is "EWS delete".

I am not still convinced that the problem lies with ttaylo036ís DME. As you may recall, in my case, I was able to ultimately determine through the process of elimination that the DME was the problem. However also recall that my symptom was only a no-start. The engine would crank over all day so that essentially ruled out my EWS system. ttaylo036ís situation was a no-start and no-crank situation. And, given that his car would crank over after he cut the wires, that tends to make me think his problem was more than likely somewhere in the EWS system itself.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #202  
Old 10-14-2012, 05:50 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Thanks for all your help I'll be out in the garage tonight, havent bought anything new. Been dong lots of research on this and its seems that this site is the best.

Anyways my name is Tim and its needs to be mentioned this car only has 10,000 miles.
You would mind to post the guys who make the DME repairs? I think that may be my next move, it would rule out at anyways. I'll post up the details of the build date later tonight.

Also this car progressivly got worse when it came to starting, it would start sometimes and got to the point where it would not crank at all. At that point I had a new key made, that didnt help. All that led me here.

Again thanks to all for your help, Id rather not scrap this car (see pics)

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  #203  
Old 10-14-2012, 06:10 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Hey Tim. Your ride is beautiful. Not my cup of tea on the styling wise, but a gorgeous speciment of an E36.

I'm perplexed that the car would gradually have the starting problem. That almost makes me wonder if you had/have a problem with the neutral safety switch or something other than the EWS or DME.

Specialized ECU Repair (BMWDME.com) is the company that I referred to. Their number is 800-328-1425.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #204  
Old 10-14-2012, 06:29 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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I believe I jacked up the computer by hooking and unhooking the battery, this car sets ALOT so I have the battery unhooked and rehooked and unhooked and rehooked....this car was built 3-95

Could it be that resistor on the 12 gauge battery wire (the smaller wire) I've heard that these do fail and it jacks the car up.


This car has always started without the need to push in the clutch, just sayin.
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  #205  
Old 10-14-2012, 07:21 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I looked at both adverts. They both refer to 318/318is as well. The is models were the ones with the 16 valve M42 engines. I believe they should work.

And if they are ecus for cars without the EWS system (rather than an EWS delete), then they will work with a car's EWS system deleted, which is something that Jim is now familiar with. An EWS delete chip specifically functions on a car with an EWS system, but without requiring you to do any wiring to delete that system. The chip itself is installed on the existing functioning ECU after its existing chip is pried out. That was a good point that you mentioned sir.

In any case Jim, you need to look at your ecu's part number and ask specific questions to the sellers of those ecus to confirm that things will work before making a purchase. Even if the listed auctions are not the right ones for you, the sellers may have the correct ECU elsewhere and could still sell it to you.

The part number can be found on your ecu and also on www.realoem.com you'll just need to plonk in your vin number (the last 7 digits).

The car got progressively harder to crank over time - could this be a battery failure situation? How old is your battery ?

It is possible that more than one culprit is at play over here. Jim, you need to start ruling things out. Ensure that the battery's fully charged. First, make sure that the fueling system is working fine all the way from the pump, to the fuel relay and the fp's fuse. Check if you're getting continuity at the fuel pump, current at the fuel pump's connector, and a very slight pressuring noise from the engine (with the hood up) when you key2 the car. Then you need to check if your CPS ohms out fine, or you need to install a new one (that's needed anyway). If these things are ok, then its your ews system or your ecu or both. If its your EWS system, delete the EWS and get a new EWS delete ecu or a non-EWS ecu and things will work. If its your ECU, get a non-EWS ecu, delete your EWS, and then it should work.

Perhaps it would help us understand this better if you told us exactly what happened and exactly how it happened from the very beginning, taking care to leave nothing out. I realise that you've been unclear from the beginning and we've been making assumptions to fill in the gaps, which is always unwise.

Your car looks neat but the rims are way large and I don't know how much they slow the car down considering that its just a measly 1.8 litre engine.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-14-2012 at 07:26 PM.
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  #206  
Old 10-14-2012, 07:32 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I just took another look at your post Steve and yes you're right the E36 318is in the later years had that valve (which apparently changes the size of the intake to allow more air in), which means the E30 ecus might not work or might not work well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-BMW-318...b1ca74&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-E36-M44-...7a904d&vxp=mtr

These look like they would work. However, they probably have the donor car's EWS system in them, and Jim will have to purchase a separate performance chip with EWS delete to go with them :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Chip-...1ee78c&vxp=mtr

I believe most performance chips being sold do not have the EWS system in it, if not it would cost way too much for the buyer to go back to the dealer and recode etc etc. That being said, Jim you should check on all of these directly with the seller.
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  #207  
Old 10-15-2012, 12:26 AM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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This is hard to explain my car acts just like this one at the Beginning of this video



After the EWII delete my car will crank.
I bought a new key
The battery is good.


Thanks for all the help yet again
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  #208  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:33 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Please follow the step by step troubleshooting methods that have been outlined.

If you follow all the steps faithfully and you leave nothing out, you will solve this problem. There is no other outcome possible.
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  #209  
Old 10-16-2012, 05:58 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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I have a 96 Z3 with a transplanted 98' M3 S52 in it.

Ever since I have owned it, it has always taken 3 times to crank. Basically, turn the key and spin the engine, turn it off, turn on and spin, turn off and then turn it on again and it starts and runs perfectly.

Just recently it has been taking doing the on/off on/off on/off switching for as many as 20+ times before it starts and once again runs perfectly. It almost seems like it may never run and then when you've almost given up it starts.

Troubleshooting:
I have replaced the fuel pump (had a bad Gauge sending unit anyways)
Replaced the fuel filter
Replaced the Crank Position Sensor

I have then tried to reset the computer. I unplugged the negative on the batteyr and turned on the flashers to drain it.
After this it started on the first try for 3 times and then it went back to not wanting to start.

It seems to be getting worse to where it almost won't start.

Could this be the DME or a bad ECU?

Last edited by jwrape; 10-16-2012 at 07:07 AM.
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  #210  
Old 10-16-2012, 08:22 AM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Your in the right place!
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  #211  
Old 10-16-2012, 11:56 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrape View Post
I have a 96 Z3 with a transplanted 98' M3 S52 in it.

Ever since I have owned it, it has always taken 3 times to crank. Basically, turn the key and spin the engine, turn it off, turn on and spin, turn off and then turn it on again and it starts and runs perfectly.

Just recently it has been taking doing the on/off on/off on/off switching for as many as 20+ times before it starts and once again runs perfectly. It almost seems like it may never run and then when you've almost given up it starts.

Troubleshooting:
I have replaced the fuel pump (had a bad Gauge sending unit anyways)
Replaced the fuel filter
Replaced the Crank Position Sensor

I have then tried to reset the computer. I unplugged the negative on the batteyr and turned on the flashers to drain it.
After this it started on the first try for 3 times and then it went back to not wanting to start.

It seems to be getting worse to where it almost won't start.

Could this be the DME or a bad ECU?
1. NEVER drain your battery.
2. Codes can be deleted via the stomp test or by unplugging the ecu for a few minutes.
3. If you noticed, you made progress of some importance. You managed to get your car to behave normally for 3 startups. This is highly relevant.
4. Redelete your codes, then see if you can start the car normally. Keep doing it until it goes back to behaving badly. Then, CHECK your codes. You might just have a new error code in there now. It may be the clue to what's gonig wrong with your car.

5. Please start a new thread and don't threadjack. You will also get more responses from the general members.....this thread is for EWS system related issues and those uninterested in this will not even bother to click on it, and you might lose the attention of someone with the right approach to solving your problem.

rgds,
Roberto
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  #212  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:56 PM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post

5. Please start a new thread and don't threadjack. You will also get more responses from the general members.....this thread is for EWS system related issues and those uninterested in this will not even bother to click on it, and you might lose the attention of someone with the right approach to solving your problem.

rgds,
Roberto
Sorry didn't mean to thread jack. I thought my issue might be the EWS as well. I don't know too much about BMW's although I know a great amount about cars in general, just never had a BMW before. I will start a new thread
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  #213  
Old 10-16-2012, 05:40 PM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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the ews2 system is pretty much , cut and dry . It either works or not .

Sent from my Desire HD using Bimmer App
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  #214  
Old 10-17-2012, 03:36 AM
jwrape jwrape is offline
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Originally Posted by supertech777 View Post
the ews2 system is pretty much , cut and dry . It either works or not .

Sent from my Desire HD using Bimmer App

Oh, I guess mine is still working then. I guess I'm still looking for the problem then
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  #215  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:18 AM
Spaz'E36 Spaz'E36 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Even though this relates to an E36, Iím posting it here because it has the same M50 engine and electrical system as the E34.

This is the story of a BMW loverís journey ......


I consider myself an electrical moron, so I have to tell you, I was scared to start cutting and bridging wires. So, I cut the green wire #4 and capped off each end. I then cut wire #1 and #3 at the EWS module and spliced them together. I put the red label DME in the car. I turned the key and the dashboard lit up as usual, but the engine would not turn over. Remember me mentioning how the EWS was activated when I forgot to put the antenna ring back on the ignition tumbler when I replaced it? Well, I knew that the EWS was being activated because it was the exact same scenario. So, I also spliced wires #1 and #3 on the DME side as well. Again I tried to crank the car. This time the engine would turn over, but it still had no spark and would not crank. Now I was really ticked off and thinking that I had no chance of fixing this thing. So, I just put the wiring back to as it was from the factory and I put the silver label DME back in it with the intention of having it towed to my mechanic........



I hope this long winded dissertation has or will help someone who faces a no-start situation.

Best regards,
Steve
Given attecntion to what you mentioned about the cutting and splicing of wires #1 and #3....

I just had to switch a new(to me) DME into my 1996 328is, so I followed the video instructions and cut/capped the green wire of the EWS to disable it and now the car will turn over but will not crank. I then tried the original DME and the same thing it would turn over but not crank.......Did I miss something about splicing wires #1 and #3?

After reading this post, this is my TO DO LIST when I get off work this evening:
1-Retry new DME with it in compartment and properly grounded as mentioned previously in thread
2-If still no crank... trouble shoot if it is fuel or spark issue
3- If injector or spark issue return to EWS disable method(and hopefully hear something from this reply by then)


Thanks to Steve for this awesome thread/write-up, and thanks in advance to those who read/reply,
Best Regards,
Caleb
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  #216  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:28 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaz'E36 View Post
Given attecntion to what you mentioned about the cutting and splicing of wires #1 and #3....

I just had to switch a new(to me) DME into my 1996 328is, so I followed the video instructions and cut/capped the green wire of the EWS to disable it and now the car will turn over but will not crank. I then tried the original DME and the same thing it would turn over but not crank.......Did I miss something about splicing wires #1 and #3?

After reading this post, this is my TO DO LIST when I get off work this evening:
1-Retry new DME with it in compartment and properly grounded as mentioned previously in thread
2-If still no crank... trouble shoot if it is fuel or spark issue
3- If injector or spark issue return to EWS disable method(and hopefully hear something from this reply by then)


Thanks to Steve for this awesome thread/write-up, and thanks in advance to those who read/reply,
Best Regards,
Caleb
If there is no crank, it cannot be a fuel, spark or crankshaft sensor issue. Those would only cause a no-start situation. In fact, it cannot even be a bad dme. That would cause a no spark issue too, but the cranking would work as long as the battery has juice. However, if the EWS system is defective, the battery is dead, or the battery's fusible link is damaged, or of course your starter is busted (pretty rare) you won't get a crank at all.
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  #217  
Old 11-07-2012, 07:33 AM
Spaz'E36 Spaz'E36 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
If there is no crank, it cannot be a fuel, spark or crankshaft sensor issue. Those would only cause a no-start situation. In fact, it cannot even be a bad dme. That would cause a no spark issue too, but the cranking would work as long as the battery has juice. However, if the EWS system is defective, the battery is dead, or the battery's fusible link is damaged, or of course your starter is busted (pretty rare) you won't get a crank at all.

I appologize for not being more clear... I mentioned that it would turn over but not crank.... I guess I should say it will crank but NOT start up...

Again thank you for the quick response!
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  #218  
Old 11-07-2012, 08:19 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaz'E36 View Post
I appologize for not being more clear... I mentioned that it would turn over but not crank.... I guess I should say it will crank but NOT start up...

Again thank you for the quick response!
Cranking = turning over.
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  #219  
Old 11-07-2012, 08:31 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by Spaz'E36 View Post
Given attecntion to what you mentioned about the cutting and splicing of wires #1 and #3....

I just had to switch a new(to me) DME into my 1996 328is, so I followed the video instructions and cut/capped the green wire of the EWS to disable it and now the car will turn over but will not crank. I then tried the original DME and the same thing it would turn over but not crank.......Did I miss something about splicing wires #1 and #3?

Ok, this is how it works.

The EWS system communicates with the EWS component of your ECU/ DME's programming. The EWS is the 1st gatekeeper and the DME is the second gatekeeper.

When the EWS system itself is busted, the signal from the ignition key does not even reach the rest of the car, hence your engine will not even turn over.

Bypassing the EWS system allows your ignition signal to reach the starter and cause the engine to crank.

However, no EWS signal reaches the DME to pair up with its internal programming. Hence the ECU will assume that the security verification is not complete and not take further action. Therefore, the car will crank but will not fire up. Unclamp the ECU and you'll see that the car still cranks but still does not start....same thing essentially.

You need to bypass BOTH gatekeepers to get this running. Your current DME is still looking for the EWS. You gotta stop that as well.

What you need, is an EWS delete chip on your ecu. This is a aftermarket chip that's coded for your car, but without the EWS subroutines. So you may have purchased an extra DME, but unless it has this ews delete chip installed on it, or its an older dme (91.92, etc, generally known as a red label dme) which did not have an EWS pairing function to begin with, your car will still not fire up even though the initial culprit, your first gatekeeper, the primary EWS system itself, has been disabled.

If all of this is news to you, then you have read through Steve's first post too quickly. Please re-read the very first post on this thread again for further details beyond this point.

rgds,
Roberto

p.s. EWS delete chips retail for around $50 on ebay). You can probably plug that into your original ecu (the chips come with installation instructions) or your new spare ecu. Or you can sell off your new spare ecu and purchase an older red label dme instead. I would suggest the ews delete chip because it usually contains an enhanced map which will improve your car's performance itself, so you'll turn a repair into an upgrade.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-07-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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  #220  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:10 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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So, I am working on a colleague's 12/1994 525i and the EWS is missing. A red label '413' DME would allow me to bypass the EWS altogether????
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  #221  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:30 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
So, I am working on a colleague's 12/1994 525i and the EWS is missing. A red label '413' DME would allow me to bypass the EWS altogether????
In short, yes. If the ews system is missing, you need to get an ecu that does not look for an ews key. The red label dme would be the one :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-94-95-BMW...60281f&vxp=mtr

Please read the product description for more details. If in doubt, write the seller and request confirmation....they don't always include much details.

This ecu is too expensive, imo. $50-$60 should be the right price. If I were you and had time, I'd keep looking....



rgds,
Roberto
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  #222  
Old 11-27-2012, 10:25 AM
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Doktor Bert Doktor Bert is offline
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Thanks, it's a colleague's car and it's just an extra car for him, so time is not a crucial element...
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  #223  
Old 11-27-2012, 03:50 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by Doktor Bert View Post
Thanks, it's a colleague's car and it's just an extra car for him, so time is not a crucial element...
This is a good alternative to getting a new ecu :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-325-...9ca7ac&vxp=mtr

You can transplant this into the existing ecu and provided the ecu is not itself damaged, it will work fine.

The chip not only has the EWS2 references removed from it, it has a performance tune as well. Thus, you turn a repair into an upgrade, which is always a good thing to do where possible.

You will need something like that to get your silver lable dme to work at all, if not you can't even use it as a spare even if it is undamaged.

These are alternatives :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-94-BMW-E3...47d24e&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Chip-...77ed1f&vxp=mtr

However, those two do not have proper descriptions. Please write to the sellers directly to confirm if the ews 2 system is deleted from the chip, before you confirm the purchase.

You can always purchase a red label dme AND a performance chip, if the current dme is damaged, or if you want a performance dme and also a backup ecu. IMO its worth investing money in it, and can always be sold off later for the same price if your friend decides to sell off his car.


rgds,
Roberto
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  #224  
Old 12-28-2012, 06:07 PM
ttaylo036 ttaylo036 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
If there is no crank, it cannot be a fuel, spark or crankshaft sensor issue. Those would only cause a no-start situation. In fact, it cannot even be a bad dme. That would cause a no spark issue too, but the cranking would work as long as the battery has juice. However, if the EWS system is defective, the battery is dead, or the battery's fusible link is damaged, or of course your starter is busted (pretty rare) you won't get a crank at all.
Hello Mr. Roberto!!

I'm back My progress has not been progressed since our last conversation. You mention the batterys fusible link, could this be my problem.

To recap:
I bought a new siver DME from Bavarian for my car, no change
My car cranks, gets spark, will not start.
Is it possible that I need a crank case sensor?
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  #225  
Old 12-28-2012, 06:47 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttaylo036 View Post
Hello Mr. Roberto!!

I'm back My progress has not been progressed since our last conversation. You mention the batterys fusible link, could this be my problem.

To recap:
I bought a new siver DME from Bavarian for my car, no change
My car cranks, gets spark, will not start.
Is it possible that I need a crank case sensor?
Hello Taylor,

Oddly enough, I was just thinking about you like less than 24 hours ago.

A silver DME will not work if your car's problem is the EW2. You must read through the first post in this thread, as well as the interlinked website in that post, very carefully.

To recap.

How EWS2 works.

1. There is a device called an immobiliser system on the car. This is separate from the ECU. Lets call this EWS2.
2. On cars with EWS2, the ecu is trained to expect authentication from the EWS2, before proceeding to start the car. This authentication is generated when the correct key is inserted into the ignition of an ews2 equipped car, with a working ews2 system.
3. IF the EWS2 system itself is busted, it will not send the authentication signal to the ecu even if the correct key is used. The ecu will not start the car.
4. The ews2 delete procedure thus cannot stop at merely bypassing the EWS2 system. We have to do something to the Ecu itself as well. It is thus, a 2 stage fix.
5. After the EWS2 system is bypassed, you need to EITHER swop your ecu with a red-label m50 vanos ecu (these ecus came WITHOUT the need for ews authentication, and are identical to the later cars in all other respects), OR you need to purchase an EWS DELETE chip from ebay and swop out the existing chip on your CURRENT SILVER label ecu.

6. Buying an ews delete chip is my personal favourite as these chips also come with boosted fuel/air maps (doublecheck with the seller before making the purchase). Therefore you turn an expensive repair into an upgrade as well, which is nice even if it cost a little more money and time.

So, not only will you delete the ecu's ews authentication function, you will boost your car's performance. Remember, the car was built in an era to function normally for the worst standard fuel of the day. Such low grade fuel is no longer common, and so the gas that is one grade up can truly take advantage of the new fuel/air map in your delete chip. Such chips usually require you to use fuel with higher octane numbers than the stock chips were designed for. Our car did not come with octane rating detectors stock and so the stock ecus do not have multiple maps available for it to switch depending on which type of gas is being used.

Please read the first post very slowly.

If you can't get a full refund for your the silver dme that you just purchased, or you can't exchange it for free with a red label dme SPECIFIC TO YOUR ENGINE (just remembered that you're not running a 525), then try to find an ews2 delete chip with boosted maps on ebay. They go for something like $40 shipped. You need to do alot of googling, alot of calling up shops, and it would probably work better if you brought this situation to the correct forum for your car as people would be able to direct you to places quickly.


rgds,
Roberto
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