Car Won't start immediately anymore

Also have no codes from the ECU, but when I left the negative terminal off the battery for a hour and then plugged it back in it started on the very first try for the first three times, then it went back to having hard time starting again.

Details on my car: 1996 Z3, originally with a 1.9L, now has a 1998 M3 S52 in it.

Originally Posted by jwrape

Details on my car: 1996 Z3, originally with a 1.9L, now has a 1998 M3 S52 in it.

(1) You're in the wrong forum. This is the E30 forum, you have an E36 variant

(2) Your Z3 is an OBDII car. You cannot do a stomp test on an OBDII system. OBDI only.

(3) a 1444 code on a car you CAN do a stomp test on means "no codes stored"

Originally Posted by hornhospital

(1) You're in the wrong forum. This is the E30 forum, you have an E36 variant

Yes, wrong body but right motor correct. All my motor and transmission is from a 1998 M3. Figured it would be correct for this thread. I might be wrong

So did you get the injectors cleaned and flow tested? How fast does the fuel rail loose pressure?

:

Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure

So did you get the injectors cleaned and flow tested? How fast does the fuel rail loose pressure?

Almost immediately falls to a little over 20psi, but in the same when the car turns over it jumps back up to over 40psi. No I haven't had then cleaned. Prolly wouldn't be a bad idea. I have another set of injectors as well if I needed them.
But it runs good once it's started, runs normal and strog.

Fuel ail pressure dropping a bit fast. Either the FPR or pump letting it drop. Just as a helper turns off the engine clamp the fuel return line and observe the gauge; then do the same but clamp the input rubber tube instead. One will show fast drop the other will hold pressure longer (5 minutes +). That will pinpoint which way you are loosing fuel pressure. At the risk of nagging do the injectors and all the previously mentioned battery areas!!

1995 was the last year of OBDI for US cars. Euro/Japanese/S Africa/Australia went a bit longer I believe, but you '98 engine is OBDII for sure.

Yea, i just pulled the computer out. It's a 98 E36 M3 Computer. It's labelled from the junk yard when it was swapped by a BMW motorsports place in Braselton, GA

I spoke to the owner who had it converted but he didn't know anything

Why on earth would anybody swop that ECU onto a normal M20 motor
or are you running a S50/52 motor in there ?

Originally Posted by Nick323

Why on earth would anybody swop that ECU onto a normal M20 motor
or are you running a S50/52 motor in there ?

yes S52

Recent newbie to 325 ownership. Warm weather starts fine , as soon as turned cold would take lots of cranking to start. Fuse # 10 7.5 amp was open. This circuit has many sensors and relays in it but the car would start eventually and run. Check all fuses for opens and remove and install all relays in fuse box and any electrical connector in engine bay. Good luck.

I found it, I figured it out.

I found a relay beside my DME that had some corrosion on it. I swapped it out with the main relay (same kind of relay) and the car started. I am ordering new relays to replace permenantly

Nicely done!


I see I'm not the only one with battle scars on my hands.

Originally Posted by hornhospital

I see I'm not the only one with battle scars on my hands.

LOL! Actually, although I usually have my fair share, those are not battle scars. I had just finished staining my Pergula Posts on the back of my house. Dark Red Oak...

Originally Posted by fivecrabs

Recent newbie to 325 ownership. Warm weather starts fine , as soon as turned cold would take lots of cranking to start. Fuse # 10 7.5 amp was open. This circuit has many sensors and relays in it but the car would start eventually and run. Check all fuses for opens and remove and install all relays in fuse box and any electrical connector in engine bay. Good luck.

just fixed this problem. Weak fuel pump had to build up pressure

Originally Posted by jwrape

I haven't run it out of gas and I DID just put a new fuel pump assembly in the car, but I do have a new fuel filter coming in the mail as well as new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The Cold Start Valve will be the next thing I replace if these two things do not fix it.

I have the same problem with my 1988 325e new fuel pump and it takes 10 15 sweconds before it starts next day or after 2-three hour standing or less sometimes...keep us posted, thank you

Originally Posted by amigo

I have the same problem with my 1988 325e new fuel pump and it takes 10 15 sweconds before it starts next day or after 2-three hour standing or less sometimes...keep us posted, thank you

Read my above post get a different fuel pump

Ok, I took apart my main relay last night. WOW! what a rusted mess.
I cleaned it up with Denatured Alcohol and a tooth brush and then sanded the contact on it.
Works perfectly until I can order a new relay to replae it Definately the issue all along