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  #26  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:51 PM
sunny5280 sunny5280 is online now
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Originally Posted by mda185 View Post
This is not 100% correct. There are two separate functions the wireless keys perform. The ability to start the car requires that the code emitted by a chip in the key match a code already stored in the EWS and DME computers. All BMWs are shipped with a total of 10 key codes stored in the EWS and the DME computers. These codes are a function of your car's VIN. When you buy a new key from BMW, their parts dept looks up your VIN to see how many of the 10 key codes have been issued. These codes refer to the identification signal emitted by the chip in the key. The chip can only be programmed once and it takes a special electronic coder to perform this function. Once 10 keys have been issued for your car, BMW dealer will tell you that you need to purchase a new EWS module and have your DME recoded. They will most likely want to charge $1000 or more for this service. There are people out there that can provide this service for less. One that I know of is RPM Motorsports in Canada. They have a web site.

The other function that does require dealer or owner setup is getting the locking and alarm system to recognize the wireless signal emitted by the keys. The dealer only needs your old key(s) when setting up the keyless entry and alarm system to recognize the new key. If the old keys are not re-entered at the same time as the new key, the system will only recognize the new key.
This.
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  #27  
Old 10-18-2012, 09:25 PM
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That's right. All of this is done by BMW when you order a key. I don't think 10 keys is an unreasonable limit...
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  #28  
Old 10-19-2012, 06:17 AM
sunny5280 sunny5280 is online now
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Originally Posted by petriej View Post
That's right. All of this is done by BMW when you order a key. I don't think 10 keys is an unreasonable limit...
One part, programming the key to operate the vehicle, can only be done by BMW (BMW the company, not the dealer). The other, programming the key for the remote lock / unlock functionality, can be done by the dealer or the customer.

If the customer orders a key and the dealer wishes to charge for programming just be aware the programming being referenced is the latter and not the former. It takes all of a couple minutes and requires no tools to do. Therefore they shouldn't be charging an arm and a leg to do it (IMO they shouldn't charge anything at all given how easy it is to do).

For anyone who may stumble across this thread and wish to perform the latter programming themselves here's how to do it:

http://www.xoutpost.com/81407-post1.html
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  #29  
Old 10-19-2012, 11:02 PM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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I beg to differ with you on the "only BMW" part, sunny. *IF* you have a programmer such as the AK90, you can program the key yourself. This is exactly what I did and, yes, it works. The AK90 effectively is an In-Circuit_Emulator. It reads the EWS directly. You can even use it to reprogram an EWS to a new VIN, if you so desired. And that 10 key limit thing? Not really an issue. Sure, you may re-enable a key that is "lost" but you definitely can replicate the "old" key again, including putting the mileage into the transponder. I *absolutely, positively* know that this is possible and that it works. The only caveat is that you *must* have a new transponder chip. You cannot re-use old chips.

Programming the remote is another matter. Oddly, that is where I'm having a problem now. My 2002 Mini Cooper doesn't seem to want to accept the new remote. :-(

As for copying... You need a side milling key cutter. They are not that common but they are hardly rare. I found a guy in Redwood City (Crane Locksmith), California that could cut the keys. I actually have a CNC and tried to cut them myself but they were not reliable so I grudgingly spent an afternoon to drive up to CRane. That said, the keys work perfectly now so I'm happy. The charge was $35 when you supply your own blank. The guys there are super nice and very helpful.
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  #30  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:27 AM
sunny5280 sunny5280 is online now
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper2002 View Post
I beg to differ with you on the "only BMW" part, sunny. *IF* you have a programmer such as the AK90, you can program the key yourself. This is exactly what I did and, yes, it works. The AK90 effectively is an In-Circuit_Emulator. It reads the EWS directly. You can even use it to reprogram an EWS to a new VIN, if you so desired. And that 10 key limit thing? Not really an issue. Sure, you may re-enable a key that is "lost" but you definitely can replicate the "old" key again, including putting the mileage into the transponder. I *absolutely, positively* know that this is possible and that it works. The only caveat is that you *must* have a new transponder chip. You cannot re-use old chips.
Then I stand corrected.
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  #31  
Old 06-06-2013, 06:22 AM
invictvs invictvs is offline
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Keys: The Full Story.

Apologies for reviving a dead thread, but I wanted to just confirm something. I assume the issues in this thread are relevant for other models.

I'm trying to help someone with a '99 e46 328i that had its EWS module replaced because the original suffered for some sort of liquid damage. So they got a new EWS, but obviously the car won't crank. My diagnostic set up can't even recognize the car, which I assume is due to the OBDII to 20 pin adapter I needed, and now have (I hope).

However, after reading this thread, I have learned that they need completely new keys as well; is that correct? Everything else, I should be able to do myself? Do I need the new keys to be able to perform the EWS to DME realignment?

I'm surprised the dealer sold the part without coding it to the vin and without telling them they have to get new keys for it to work.

Thanks in advance for any input.


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  #32  
Old 06-06-2013, 10:45 AM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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No worries about reviving an old thread. If you have questions and cannot find answers, then trust me, you are frustrated and will look for help anywhere! Been there, done that!

First, please understand that I don't know everything there is about the EWS system. I have a pretty decent understanding of it, but this is from reading different posts, manuals, inference, etc. Most knowledge, therefore, is theoretical. Programming new keys is absolutely practical because I have physically made three keys from scratch; so, in that area I feel comfortable answering absolutely, otherwise it is all subject to confirmation...

OK... So my understanding is that the EWS effectively needs to be registered with the car's main computer unit. At the very least, the EWS absolutely has the VIN number embedded within it (as do the transponders within the keys). If you think about it, this makes sense. It prevents someone from simply replacing an EWS with one of their own and "stealing" the car.... So, problem #1 for you is to register your EWS with the main computer. To do this, you will likely need something like the AK90. It has a hood that covers the EWS' microcontroller, and allows you to change things like the embedded VIN. It also allows you to register the different key transponders so, no, you don't need new keys (which, by the way, was misleading... at the most you'd only need new transponders but I've just discounted that).

So, there are a few things that need to be done (#3, #4 may not be required and are covered in a following paragraph):
1. you need to pair the EWS with the car computer (never done that, but I'm sure an AK90 will be involved)
2. you need to pair the keys with the EWS (done that, definitely requires an AK90, or similar device)
3. If you want to use the remote section of the key, you'll need to register the keys with the car computer (requires DIS, or similar, connected through the OBD port... done that)
4. You'll need to pair the remote with the car (the un/lock cycle stuff you'll read about on the net... won't work until #3 is done! Done that)

Now a few considerations... First, unless you have the barcode for the keys, you will need to run an algorithm to create the data needed when registering the remotes to the car (#3). HOWEVER, if you haven't replaced the car computer, which it sounds like you have not, then the remotes probably work fine now so #3 and #4 are probably moot points).

Second consideration.... This is an old car. Do you really want to go through the effort of installing a new EWS? Another option may be to simply disable the whole thing with one of the emulators sold on fleaBay. The disclaimer here is that I bought one and couldn't get it to work, but that is before I understood the nuances of needing DIS, etc. If I were to do it again, I think I might be able to get the emulator to work. Of course, at that point any key, regardless of the transponder (or if it even has one) will work, so it might be a theft concern. However, it is an old car and, ironically, I suspect that most of the time cars are just towed away anyhow!
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  #33  
Old 06-06-2013, 03:05 PM
invictvs invictvs is offline
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Keys: The Full Story.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I don't see myself obtaining the AK90 software, at least not in time to help this person out, so I assume BMW is my only answer for the keys. With new keys, shouldn't I be able to perform an EWS-DME realignment through DIS? Wouldn't that code the VIN to the EWS and make the DME and EWS work together?

Thanks again!


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  #34  
Old 06-06-2013, 03:49 PM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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Let's cut this up into some manageable topics...

I honestly don't know if the DIS system can be used to pair an EWS to the DME. Both are capable of being accessed via OBD-II devices. Some of the higher end programming systems can pair a transponder via OBD-II, which is solely an EWS thing. Honestly, I have never understood why devices like the AK90 need to exist. They almost function as in-circuit emulators, which seems like it is way harder to develop than a pure software OBD-II based application. But I digress.... The point is, step #1 is to get those two paired. At the very least, that will likely require that the VIN be written to the EWS. Whether there is more required in the pairing is something I do not know. Your BMW dealer definitely should be able to help you there (actually, in all of this... I can't imagine they have never replaced an EWS!).

The second part of what you are asking is the transponder within the key. At *most* that is all you would have to replace, but I doubt that is even required. By definition, if they have a device that is capable of pairing the EWS to the DME (which, as I said, is definitely writing data to the EWS), then it stands to reason that they should be able to pair the transponder chip to the EWS as well. The VIN that is written into the transponder, of course, doesn't need to be changed, so I think you should be OK. To be fair, however, I can't tell you everything the AK90 does when it writes the data to the transponder chip. The only things I am sure are done are to write the key location, VIN and mileage to the transponder. If other "stuff" is also written (such as a random code) then that is unknown to me. That said, I would think any dealer programming system should be able to manage this...

The remote part of the key is completely different from the transponder. The remote is 'talking' to the DME, which you are not changing. Therefore, you should be fine there. I assume your remote is already working.

Final caveat... I am assuming your DME and EWS are fundamentally the same as those found in my 2002 Mini Cooper. I *think* it is but we are talking about different cars and potentially different generations of electronics so your mileage may vary.

Last edited by MiniCooper2002; 06-06-2013 at 03:53 PM.
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  #35  
Old 06-06-2013, 05:03 PM
invictvs invictvs is offline
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I see. The remote works, it's just the EWS that's the issue. From what is written here on this thread it seems that each EWS comes with a certain allotment of possible keys and that a previously coded key cannot be made to work with a different EWS.

Replacing the transponder chip with a blank, from what you've said, seems to my only non-dealer option, but that is above my current skill and definitely out of my means ($200+ for the equipment for this one job). That and I think he wants this car done sooner rather than later and I've held him up for a whole already.

So if the dealer supplies us with a key or two, and then I manage to code/realign the EWS, it should be good, right?

I would prefer the dealer code the EWS but I wonder if they would even do that without the car present.

And here I thought this was going to be a quick 10min coding job...lol

Thanks man.


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  #36  
Old 06-06-2013, 09:00 PM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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The key allotment is really a little cryptic. A better statement is that the EWS can support up to 10 transponder chips. If you have a device such as an AK90, then you can reuse transponders spots (i.e. one of the 10) versus just deactivating them and configuring another. So, it isn't as though if you lost 10 keys you'd be up the proverbial creek. That is what many threads on the net imply and it is NOT true if you are using an AK90 type device. Other programming tools may be different and might not let you reuse spots.

Now for the transponder chips themselves.... Yes, the are OTP (one time programming) type devices. HOWEVER, the guys you have in your key now were clearly paired with the old EWS. I really don't know everything that is programmed into the transponder chip. If the differentiating piece of data is the VIN (which is in the chip), then your old transponder chips may well work. I just don't know... sorry! It would be nice if you could use them, though, because that means you don't need to buy anything else. And getting those chips was a major PITA! Look in this thread for a cross reference to the AS30 chips that were unobtainium for me. The replacements (AS32? don't recall) were easier to find and worked fine in the end.

There is no such thing as a 10 minute job on this EWS stuff. It is a total pain in the "big toe"! TOTAL PAIN. I had one key and a 16 year old kid I didn't trust to actually not lose the thing. I was paranoid. Now I've got extra keys and breathing easier. But for you, I'd suggest you punt and let the dealer mess with this stuff. You'll exceed the cost of the car quickly if you are providing the labor.
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  #37  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:04 PM
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If a dealer sold you a new EWS control module...then you need to get it coded to your car. The EWS system uses an ISN (individual serial number) that is specific to each BMW based on its VIN. Whether the ISN & VIN are one in the same...I don't know....but I did notice in this thread that it was repeatedly mentioned that the VIN needed to be coded into the EWS control module...where BMW refers to an ISN that is shared between the key's transponder EEPROM, EWS control module, and DME/DDE. Take note of the 2nd paragraph in the info below on initial EWS programming as the vehicle comes off the assembly line...again, you need to have the new EWS-CM you purchased coded with the info from your car's original DME:


A new EWS-CM that's coded to your car, should have the same ISN coded to it that is already written to the DME (the DME can't be overwritten)...so if you still have spaces left (of the total of 10 keys)....then you shouldn't need new keys...the old ones will have the same ISN as the DME...and the new EWS-CM should be coded with the existing ISN from the old EWS-CM and the original DME.

The other 2 features of the remote keys are DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) and FZV (central locking)...and as mentioned multiple times in this thread...can be done in your driveway following a simple procedure. A new key ordered through BMW will come already coded with the correct EWS ISN which only leaves DWA/FZV to be programmed.

Also, the DWA/FZV features of any BMW key with the same frequency (315 MHz in No America or 433 MHz Europe & other markets) can be programmed to your BMW...that's why the ones purchased on eBay can be programmed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm your car...but it can't be made to start your car. And the DWA/FZV features are the ones that are powered by the battery inside the key...EWS doesn't need the battery...it is self powered thru induction by a 125 KHz signal sent from the EWS-CM to the Ring Antenna to the coil inside the key which powers the EEPROM.

BMW DIS/GT-1 or some of the aftermarket software/hardware (Carsoft, INPA for example) can communicate with the BMW proprietary system to code a new EWS-CM to the car. OBD II is not the correct terminology...OBD II is the federal mandate for electronic engine emissions...and only has limited communication with only a couple of the control modules. In BMWs built from 10/2000-up...the 20 pin DLC in the engine bay was dropped and access to the car's communication BUS system is made thru the OBD II connector...but extra pins were added to the connector...and again, OBD II only has access to the TXD II lines...where as having the correct software/hardware set-up...allows access to the ALL the proprietary BMW control modules on the CAN/Diagnostic/I/K/M/P bus.

As you can see in the topological chart below...EWS is on the K-BUS and the FZV/DWA features of the remote keys is on the P-BUS (by way of the GM)...a generic OBD II scanner/reader can't access these modules unless it has been specifically designed to communicate over the aformentioned communication bus lines. That's why BMW DIS/GT-1 or aftermarket software/hardware is required.

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Last edited by QSilver7; 06-06-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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  #38  
Old 06-07-2013, 12:21 AM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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QSilver,
That is a great post! Thank you! However, I disagree on one small point, although it is moot to the person asking questions about pairing the DME and EWS. The directions on the net regarding how one pairs the *remote* section of a key (i.e. not the transponder) to a car are downright misleading and wrong. Generally, they describe a sequence of lock/unlock sessions after having turned the ignition on/off within 5 seconds (or some variant thereof). Those directions do not pair the remote to the DME, they resynchronize a key that has been previously paired. A rolling code is used to ensure that a remote cannot be easily compromised. However, the remote and its seed must first be paired using DIS. This is where the barcode information that comes with a brand new remote come into play. Unfortunately, that data is generally lost and 99.9% of the keys sold on eBay do *not* have that information. Sadly, that effectively means the keys are useless. However, another member reversed engineered the algorithm (it was actually pretty simplistic) from the data provided on the label affixed to the remote's circuit board. You simply *must* use this algorithm to generate the data and input that date using DIS. Until you do that, it is not possible to pair a remote the the DME.

Now, in fairness, this absurd approach was done away with, I believe, in later model Minis. Given that Mini is owned by BMW and shares many of the same components, it is likely that later model BMWs also have a simplified (i.e. no need to use DIS) approach wherein the internet style directions do work. If I remember correctly, on the Mini line, that change was made in 2004 or 2005.

Also, the transponder has more than EEPROM in it (or, at least, it acts as such). Once the VIN is programmed into it, that data cannot be changed. Whether this is through an internal protection device or because it is PROM instead of EEPROM, I do not know. In truth, it doesn't really matter though, other than to say that you cannot reuse a transponder chip. :-( As a matter of conversation, I do know that the transponder keeps track of the mileage on the car. So, clearly there is a back path where the ring is being used to write to the transponder, not just read from it. However, that still doesn't mean it is EEPROM. It is possible, although not likely, that they are only writing new data. All of this could be confirmed by looking at the datasheet which I have somewhere in my computer. Anyhow, it makes for an interesting theoretical conversation but there really isn't much practical use in knowing that I can think of.

One last thing.... Although 10 slots are available for transponder (so 10 keys can be supported), on the 2002 Mini, only 4 slots for remotes are available within the DME. That is just a quick FYI for someone reading this years down the road...

Last edited by MiniCooper2002; 06-07-2013 at 12:31 AM.
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  #39  
Old 06-07-2013, 10:05 AM
mda185 mda185 is offline
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Originally Posted by invictvs View Post
I see. The remote works, it's just the EWS that's the issue. From what is written here on this thread it seems that each EWS comes with a certain allotment of possible keys and that a previously coded key cannot be made to work with a different EWS.

Replacing the transponder chip with a blank, from what you've said, seems to my only non-dealer option, but that is above my current skill and definitely out of my means ($200+ for the equipment for this one job). That and I think he wants this car done sooner rather than later and I've held him up for a whole already.

So if the dealer supplies us with a key or two, and then I manage to code/realign the EWS, it should be good, right?

I would prefer the dealer code the EWS but I wonder if they would even do that without the car present.

And here I thought this was going to be a quick 10min coding job...lol

Thanks man.


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You are missing one key piece of info. The dealer will only provide you with a key that is based on the car's VIN. The original EWS had codes stored in it for 10 keys based on the VIN. If you have another EWS, it will not have the proper key codes stored in it. The dealer will not be able to sell you keys for that replacement EWS unless it is coded properly. There is a company called RPM Motorsport in Canada that can do this and provide new keys far cheaper than the dealer will do it. They can probably code the EWS you have. It involves sending them the EWS and keys and I believe turnaround is about 5 working days. If you are not going to buy an AK90, this is the next best option you have. Google them and you will be able to look up the services they provide and prices.

I am basing the cost savings from the Canadian guys on comparison with the local cost for a key in NJ. I paid $230 for a key from Freehold BMW, closest dealer to me. I know this is a gross overcharge but I needed it quickly. If your dealer will charge a more reasonable rate, then maybe it is a decent option. It all depends on what they will charge for coding the EWS and the key(s). I think RPM Motorsports was about $360 for 4 keys and coding my EWS. 2 of the 4 keys were non remote keys. It has been a while since I checked out their prices. I will say that when I called them to discuss, they sounded knowledgeable.

Last edited by mda185; 06-07-2013 at 10:19 AM.
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  #40  
Old 06-07-2013, 11:08 AM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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Interesting.... I actually floated the idea of a similar service (or "renting" the AK90). I got zero positive response. :-( Maybe I should try again sometime.

Alan
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  #41  
Old 06-07-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniCooper2002 View Post
... However, I disagree on one small point...The directions on the net regarding how one pairs the *remote* section of a key (i.e. not the transponder) to a car are downright misleading and wrong. Generally, they describe a sequence of lock/unlock sessions after having turned the ignition on/off within 5 seconds (or some variant thereof).

Those directions do not pair the remote to the DME, they resynchronize a key that has been previously paired. A rolling code is used to ensure that a remote cannot be easily compromised. However, the remote and its seed must first be paired using DIS. This is where the barcode information that comes with a brand new remote come into play. ...
Great post and you almost have it all understood...but I think you're getting tripped up like many owners with the 3 features in the remote key. EWS/DWA/FZV are all 3 features/systems that are incorporated into the remote keys that work in conjunction with each other, communicate with each other, but are completely different systems.

The first sentence in the quote above is where some confusion throws off your theory & understanding. DWA & FZV (anti-theft alarm siren system & central locking) programming of keys are controlled by the GM III (not the DME)...and yes, there's a "rolling table" of codes...but the FZV/DWA table is DIFFERENT than the table that is communicated between the EWS's rolling code table. The initialization instructions that you wrote as being "downright misleading and wrong"....are actually correct and work without any connecting hardware that needs to speak to the DME. Again because initialization for FZV/DWA is communicating with the GM III not the DME (you can also see this in the topological BUS chart that I previously posted).

In fact, you can purchase a used or new BMW key off eBay (or take a fellow BMW owners remote key and program it to lock/unlock & arm/disarm (FZV & DWA) your car by following the procedure below (from the BMW TIS)...also note that the "rolling table" is referred to...but it also explains that the communication is with the GM...not the DME for synching remote keys.

Also, either style of the keys illustrated in the instructions below can be synced to ANY other BMW model (only to lock/unlock & arm/disarm) that uses either of these two types of keys as long as the battery inside the key is charged. A problem that you can run into though is...the new style (diamond shaped) key's internal battery is soldered to the IC board inside the key...and is recharged while the key is in the ignition. If you have the older style key, upgrading to the new style key requires a method to keep the key charged so that you can lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car. :



Once again, the remote keys have THREE features:
  1. EWS - immobilizing system (Ring Antenna/EWS-CM/DME)
  2. FZV - central locking system (antenna in rear window or side window on Tourings/Receiver in C-pillar or tailgate (on e53)/GM III)
  3. DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system (antenna in rear window or side window on Tourings/Receiver in C-pillar or tailgate (on e53)/GM III)

FZV & DWA are controlled through the GM III (not the DME)




When a key (remote or non remote) is "barred"...it is being barred thru EWS to prevent it from starting the car. To prevent a remote key from locking/unlocking & arming/disarming your car...all it takes is to resync the keys using the instructions above (ignition on for 5 sec/remove and press buttons/etc) and ANY remote key that is not programmed during that session will NO LONGER have the ability to remotely lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car. And conversely...any remote key that follows STEPS 3 - 5 will now have the ability to lock/unlock & arm/disarm YOUR car. But it will no longer lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car it was previously programmed to. And this is done without any connections to to the DLC or OBD II connector to communicate with the DME.

Also note the WORKSHOP HINT in the highlighted gray area in the info below about EWS 3.3 ...it mentions that ANY key can be tested for "remote" operation (FZV/DWA) but to have BOTH car's set of remote keys available because when you go to reprogram the keys for each car respectively...any original remote key not at the programming session will no longer operate to lock/unlock & arm/disarm the car its made for (without another programming session where ALL remote keys are available).


Hope this clears things up for you...because you have 99% of everything else to clarify the confusion for the many owners out there that don't understand EWS/FZV/DWA...especially with that AK90 aftermarket tool you have to write the ISN to a blank EWS transponder in order to have a key purchased from a non BMW dealership actually work.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 06-07-2013 at 05:32 PM.
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  #42  
Old 06-07-2013, 04:37 PM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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Location: CAlifornia
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Mein Auto: Mini Cooper
QSilver,
You clearly know more about this than I do, that is for darned certain! I thank you for your input here...

I don't have an alarm on my car so there is a gap of knowledge there. Phrased differently, my knowledge is limited to my car. And with that, I have to wonder if what you are saying is related to a generation of electronics that succeeds what I have in my 2002 Mini Cooper. I went through hell and high water with ever type of scheme I found on the internet to pair my remote to the FZV (actually, I did know it wasn't the DME at one time but when I wrote the post I had forgotten that tidbit). I was not alone. Another guy went through the same hassle and what we found was that the 2002 and 2003 Mini Coopers (possibly the 2004) required that you first pair the key via DIS. Required == Mandatory. The later cars did away with that, so I have been led to believe... To pair the remote, I had to enter three or four sets of alphanumeric data via DIS. Ordinarily this data is provided on a little sheet of paper that is attached to the key. If you don't have that info, you are screwed, pure and simple. Or wait... Now you are not! There is a sticky on the board that has two bits of information, a date and a code. the Code has been reverse engineered to provide the required data for DIS.

I am absolutely 100% sure that this was required for my 2002 Mini Cooper. But that is the limit of my experience.
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  #43  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:41 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is online now
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Location: Northeast Indiana
 
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Posts: 5,863
Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
I wish that the online TIS hadn't been shut down by BMW...we could have delved deeper into the Central Body Electric system of the Mini Cooper...but sadly, I'm not that familiar with the MC's. But I've thoroughly enjoyed this discourse...and you have nothing to be ashamed of taking on this topic on a BMW e53 forum...and your MC doesn't have the exact same set-up.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #44  
Old 06-07-2013, 06:53 PM
MiniCooper2002 MiniCooper2002 is offline
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Location: CAlifornia
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Mein Auto: Mini Cooper
Ditto... As a hardware/software/mechanical engineer, I enjoy all aspects of stuff like this (when I'm not pulling my hair out!). I do have to say, however, that I find amazed by how convoluted all of the systems are. I'm amazed cars are as reliable as they are!!!!

Anyhow, kudos on your knowledge of the cars and, more importantly, your willingness to share that.
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  #45  
Old 06-14-2013, 03:56 AM
invictvs invictvs is offline
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Location: Cleveland
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 8
Mein Auto: 2004 330Ci
Whoa, you guys know quite a bit; thank you for sharing all that. This stuff is so interesting, and very frustrating at the same time lol.

So for an update, the adapter worked; I (seemingly) coded the EWS to the car with DIS and I also aligned the EWS to the DME. My joy was short-lived, however, since the car still didn't start
I received some error regarding the MRS or something. With INPA, I received an

ISN: ERROR_ECU_REJECTED
PASSWORD: ERROR_ECU_REJECTED

message. I don't recall exactly where I was looking, but I messed around for a while.

I then fired up Progman and encoded the whole car for good measure. While the encoding went well, Progman did shoot back some errors. I have attached a couple pics. I figure it's the key and/or the ECU or DME. I'm thinking maybe I could program the DME or ECU? I can get a power regulator of course.

Thanks!
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  #46  
Old 07-18-2013, 08:20 AM
the_carouser the_carouser is offline
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Location: Australia
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
Mein Auto: e39 523i
[QUOTE=QSilver7;7637961]I wish that the online TIS hadn't been shut down by BMW...we could have delved deeper into the Central Body Electric system of the Mini Cooper...but sadly, I'm not that familiar with the MC's. [/QUOTE

Don't know how I too ended up on the e53 forum, but shows how a quest for knowledge takes deviations in order to understand further. Ironically, the last obscure place I went to was a website for Mini and Land Rover Remote Keys which is very relevent to minicooper2002's dilema and your education of how the mini's system works. I was looking for DIS v44 programming examples which led me to this site:

https://sites.google.com/site/minian...motes/decoding
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File Type: pdf Decoding - Mini and Land Rover Remote Keys.pdf (105.2 KB, 74 views)
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