Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E34 (1989 - 1995)

E34 (1989 - 1995)

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-14-2012, 12:32 PM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Portugal
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 275
Mein Auto: BMW E34 M50 2.5
Compression test malfunction and water popping out of #3

Hi all.

As part of the preparation for my project I decided to perform a compression test.

For that purpose I bought a set from eBay but something must be wrong.

As far as I understand, the needle is supposed to "climb", stop, "climb" again. But on my test the needle just kept moving from 0 to, shall we say, 125 psi, with no constant climb. Just moving. I don't really what went wrong.

While trying other cylinders, I found that on #3 drops of water came out when turning the motor without the test connected. As far as I know, motors are not supposed to run on water. Any ideas on this maybe??

Any tips is pretty much welcome.

Best regards
Reply With Quote
Ads by Google
  #2  
Old 10-14-2012, 06:58 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Banned
Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
You are supposed to disable the fueling system when you do compression tests. This is done by removing the fuel pump's fuse and running the engine until it dies naturally.

Where did the water come out from specifically ? Your description was not precise.

How long have you had this car? Has it been losing coolant at abnormal rates ?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-15-2012, 04:33 AM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Portugal
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 275
Mein Auto: BMW E34 M50 2.5
Hi all.

I was quite in a hurry and didn't supplied all the info. For that, I'm sorry. But they follow now.

Accordind to the test, I did disconnect the fuse and the relay but I'm afraid I didn't let all the gas on the ducts to be burnt. I have to retight and do it again.

For the water popping out:
-The water come out of the spark plug hole;
-I believe I have a HG failure and that's why I was running this troubleshoot;
-It has been lossing coolant since I have it, almost 1 year.

I believe it's all connected to my HG or head failure, at least that's my initial guess.

Thanks.

Best regards
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-15-2012, 05:05 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Banned
Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugsie View Post
Hi all.

I was quite in a hurry and didn't supplied all the info. For that, I'm sorry. But they follow now.

Accordind to the test, I did disconnect the fuse and the relay but I'm afraid I didn't let all the gas on the ducts to be burnt. I have to retight and do it again.

For the water popping out:
-The water come out of the spark plug hole;
-I believe I have a HG failure and that's why I was running this troubleshoot;
-It has been lossing coolant since I have it, almost 1 year.

I believe it's all connected to my HG or head failure, at least that's my initial guess.

Thanks.

Best regards
That's unfortunately the obvious conclusion.

You can try another method. Purchase some cheap, luminous green, sweet smelling coolant from walmart. Run it through your radiator and drive your car for 30 minutes. Then remove the fp's fuse and let the engine die on its own. Then remove the spark plug for the socket that produced the water the first time you did this. Place a white cloth or paper towel over that socket and crank the engine again. See what comes out this time. If it is water, and its green in colour, and if it has a strong smell...well that's confirmation.

Repeat the test one by one across all of the other chambers individually to see how extensive is the problem.

You might wish to try some of those HG stop leak solutions that are being advertised online. Scotty Kilmer has it on one of his youtube videos. If he has it there, I doubt the solution will cause additional problems like many people claim. However, there's no guarantee that it will fix the issue. The track record for this range of products is poor.

However, you're at the stage where you've got nothing to lose. At least now you have a way to test it easily. If it works, please post your experiences here.

(To answer your original question) Your compression test is supposed to function exactly like the diy videos on youtube demonstrate. Anything else is either due to a defect in the gauge or a problem in the chamber that you're testing. Google has lots of information about how to interpret all kinds of various compression test results. Please read extensively for more information and if you can, post the reason why your compression test gauge behaved weirdly in this thread, once you determine that.

If non of the compression test interpretation websites describe what you're observing on your tests, there's a good bet that you've got a faulty gauge. Try it on another car, or try a different gauge.

Good luck.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-15-2012 at 05:12 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:30 AM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Portugal
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 275
Mein Auto: BMW E34 M50 2.5
Hi all.

The luminous coolant is a good tip. I'll try that and let you know. I'm planning of removing the head for overhaul (polish, cleaning, decarbon, valve seals, compression test, etc for 300USD it's a good deal). The car as a tendency to overheat and I have to pay attention all times to avoid.

I've tried on 4 chambers and it act always like that. The test is supposed to gradually increase the indication stroke after stroke but, of course, maintaing the last stroke. I think it as a leak somewhere and the stroke pressure is measured but leaks somewhere and the needle goes 0. That repeats for the next stroke resulting on a needle jumping from 0 to maybe 130 than 0 over and over again.

Thanks for the tip.

Best regards
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:34 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Banned
Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
$300 is a steal for a top overhaul. Don't waste your time with compression tests. Just get this done.

It might be a smart idea to pay for an extra pressure test on your cylinder head to confirm that it has no cracks, especially if the HG (when removed) looks pretty ok.

I suspect that your compression testing gauge is defective.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:39 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Banned
Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
While you're doing a top overhaul, it is probably a good idea to overhaul your vanos seals (Beisan systems sells the upgraded kit), to change the crank sensor, and to purchase a new composite impeller water pump, new thermostat, a new composite water pump pulley and power steering pump pulley (if your existing ones are made of aluminium), new belts, and to delete your fan clutch and fan shroud. Also make sure that you clean out your throttle body and idle control valve, and since the head is going to be off for a few days, it would be a great time to rebuild your starter...its is usually sequestered in a hard-to-reach place and leads to no-start issues (though relatively uncommon) in a car of this vintage. This will increase your repair bill significantly but not in terms of labour, just parts, so you are saving a bundle on the individual labour costs.

Oh, you might have to pay something for the vanos overhaul labour though...that takes about half an hour.

Might also be a good time to double check that all of your tensioners are working fine and replace if any are suspect.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 10-18-2012 at 09:12 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-18-2012, 02:23 PM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Portugal
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 275
Mein Auto: BMW E34 M50 2.5
Hi.

Sorry for the late answer, but I only found that answers to this thread while performing a search.

I performed a compression test with funny results. Please check thread "preparation for azorean bimmer".

I tried the green coolant but the result was nothing popping out. Maybe with was drops of fuel or moisture.

A compression test it's not easy to find here. I have to skip that.

For the vanos, mine is a 1990 euro specs (us 1991) with no vanos.

My plans include what you mentioned, but I have one doubt: what do you mean by delete fan??

For the top overhaul price, that was the best that I found. Includes pressure test, valve rotation, seals, decarbon, polish intake and exhaust. Speaking of prices, I found some good prices on geeks parts. Do they sell tip top material or just "Chinese" parts????

For the compression test, I also believe the problem is on the gage.

Thank you so much for the inputs. Your help is pretty much welcomed.

Best regards
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-18-2012, 04:52 PM
BMWFatherFigure's Avatar
BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
Old School
Location: Perth, Western Australia
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,271
Mein Auto: E23;E30;E38;E32;E34 +
Avoid non German gaskets and other cheap parts. Does your head overhaul include gaskets or are they extra? My head shop gets my gaskets for me - German - never let me down yet. My last head build cost AUD$600.
__________________
Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two.
Current:
E23 735i; E32 735iL (X 2 - 1 Alpine White and 1 Glacier Blue); E34 535i; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman.
Previous:
E21 318i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-19-2012, 02:08 AM
Bugsie Bugsie is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Portugal
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 275
Mein Auto: BMW E34 M50 2.5
Hi al.

I'm trying to find parts (Behr if suplier) for the gaskets. Any input on a some good brands????And the overhaul doesn't include the gaskets.

On the local BMW dealer, the price for a set goes up to 400 EURO. I think it's way to much. I'll keep surfing on the internet for those.

Best regards
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E34 (1989 - 1995)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms