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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 10-19-2012, 09:25 AM
rdc rdc is offline
Russell
Location: Lexington, KY
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525iA
oil filter canister leak m50

I had an oil leak which i think was the oil filter canister gasket or vanos line. Had my indy replace the gasket and vanos line a couple of days ago.

Still a lot of oil dripping under the car the last two mornings. I think this is just the remaining old oil working it's way down off the car. If not, what else would be leaking on the driver's side of the engine?
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1995 525i auto, 1/95 build, EAT chip, abt 234K miles, , HID, Lumbar, Oxford Green/Parchment, rebuilt trany @ 208K
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2012, 10:12 AM
rdc rdc is offline
Russell
Location: Lexington, KY
 
Join Date: May 2006
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Mein Auto: 1995 525iA
Now I think I had an oil pan leak in addition to oil filter housing. I think it would be beyond my ability/time/tools to change. Any idea what it would cost for an indy to do it? Especialy in terms of time.
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2012, 11:54 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdc View Post
Now I think I had an oil pan leak in addition to oil filter housing. I think it would be beyond my ability/time/tools to change. Any idea what it would cost for an indy to do it? Especialy in terms of time.
2-3 hours. A half a day's focused job.

I can't remember if your upper and lower arms need to be removed to permit access to the oil pan. If they do, then this would be a very good time for you to repair or refresh your suspension - you will not be paying separately for its labour.

Please google for more information about this.

If this is required, and whether you buy new arms and bushings (or maybe new upgraded HD bushings alone) or reuse your old ones, make sure that your Indy pre-loads your suspension before tightening it down. This can be done by using a transmission jack to push each wheel up to the correct height (i.e. where it would be relative to the fender, if the car was on the ground - find some way to note this on the wheel and the fender before the car is jacked up ) and then torquing down the bushings.


rgds,
Roberto
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  #4  
Old 10-22-2012, 11:00 AM
rdc rdc is offline
Russell
Location: Lexington, KY
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 870
Mein Auto: 1995 525iA
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
2-3 hours. A half a day's focused job.

I can't remember if your upper and lower arms need to be removed to permit access to the oil pan. If they do, then this would be a very good time for you to repair or refresh your suspension - you will not be paying separately for its labour.

Please google for more information about this.

If this is required, and whether you buy new arms and bushings (or maybe new upgraded HD bushings alone) or reuse your old ones, make sure that your Indy pre-loads your suspension before tightening it down. This can be done by using a transmission jack to push each wheel up to the correct height (i.e. where it would be relative to the fender, if the car was on the ground - find some way to note this on the wheel and the fender before the car is jacked up ) and then torquing down the bushings.


rgds,
Roberto
Thanks- i will not be doing this myself !
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  #5  
Old 10-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdc View Post
Now I think I had an oil pan leak in addition to oil filter housing. I think it would be beyond my ability/time/tools to change. Any idea what it would cost for an indy to do it? Especialy in terms of time.
Not to be a d!ck but roberto is mistaken with the ease of an oil pan gasget change. Ive seen people removing subframe and supporting the engine alone to get to the oil pan. Also M50s have bullet proof oil pan gasgets. Super high-tech gaskets and im being totally serious. Complex layers of materials pressed into one to ensure seal and a holy hell resiliance to everything. Very slim chance its leaking.

Clean up the entire underside of your car to brand new cleanliness levels and check back every so often, no less than once a week though, and spot the source....
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  #6  
Old 10-22-2012, 12:12 PM
rdc rdc is offline
Russell
Location: Lexington, KY
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
Not to be a d!ck but roberto is mistaken with the ease of an oil pan gasget change. Ive seen people removing subframe and supporting the engine alone to get to the oil pan. Also M50s have bullet proof oil pan gasgets. Super high-tech gaskets and im being totally serious. Complex layers of materials pressed into one to ensure seal and a holy hell resiliance to everything. Very slim chance its leaking.

Clean up the entire underside of your car to brand new cleanliness levels and check back every so often, no less than once a week though, and spot the source....
Thanks to everyone who posted. In my situation, I will let others fix it if needed. Glad to know about the m50 oil pan gasket quality. Sounds like one of the last things to replace. Think I willput the car on stands or a ramp and do a gunk cleaning and watch for the leak source.. Wish I had acess to as pressure washer.
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2012, 03:24 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Hire shops are good and some car washes have them. As a thought, check the security of all the oil pan bolts (no, its not a body building course, the bolts are small) could be a PO has been down there.
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2012, 03:42 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
Not to be a d!ck but roberto is mistaken with the ease of an oil pan gasget change. Ive seen people removing subframe and supporting the engine alone to get to the oil pan. Also M50s have bullet proof oil pan gasgets. Super high-tech gaskets and im being totally serious. Complex layers of materials pressed into one to ensure seal and a holy hell resiliance to everything. Very slim chance its leaking.

Clean up the entire underside of your car to brand new cleanliness levels and check back every so often, no less than once a week though, and spot the source....
Yes you're right. 1 day's job. Yes the subframe needs to be removed, and the engine will consequently have to be hanged to permit that. Been awhile thankfully since that had to be done, hence I forgot.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2012, 08:43 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Yes you're right. 1 day's job. Yes the subframe needs to be removed, and the engine will consequently have to be hanged to permit that. Been awhile thankfully since that had to be done, hence I forgot.
Damn near impossible on your back on driveway and far from safe. Suspending an engine over yourself... Also torque the subfrome aback down and all the subsequent components properly
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  #10  
Old 10-24-2012, 08:46 AM
MeanM50 MeanM50 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Yes you're right. 1 day's job. Yes the subframe needs to be removed, and the engine will consequently have to be hanged to permit that. Been awhile thankfully since that had to be done, hence I forgot.
More mis-information from Mr Baggio...

A) It's a 2 hour job tops, as long as you have some brains and thumbs...

B) The sub-frame doesn't HAVE to come out...it's quite easy to do this job with a jack/engine hoist and hand tools. (I'm surprised you didn't know this Robert...you know everything)

C) To answer the original question, my indy charges about $200 to do an M50 oil pan.
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  #11  
Old 10-24-2012, 09:54 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanM50 View Post
More mis-information from Mr Baggio...

A) It's a 2 hour job tops, as long as you have some brains and thumbs...

B) The sub-frame doesn't HAVE to come out...it's quite easy to do this job with a jack/engine hoist and hand tools. I'm surprised you didn't know this Robert...you know everything
Need to leave something for you to do my friend, can't have all the fun to myself.
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