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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-30-2012, 03:38 PM
RickyCar RickyCar is offline
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Mein Auto: e36 328i vert ('97)
MAF killed by exploding radiator?

I have a '97 328i convertible (M52 engine) and a few weeks ago the upper neck on the stock radiator sheared off and doused the engine compartment with coolant causing the car to shut down. It did not overheat although the coolant was sure hot.

I finally got around to installing one of those after-market radiators which went in without too much difficulty but after it was in and coolant installed the car began idling rough. This became worse and as I test drove it around the block it had all the acceleration of a riding lawn mower.

So, I poked around the forum here and saw this thread from a couple of years ago: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=459812

I started the car and after it settled down a bit so it would idle without shutting down and then unplugged the MAF. Low and behold the idle smoothed out considerable.

I decided to drive it up the the autozone a couple of blocks away to use their OBDII scanner with the MAF still disconnected. (Don't ever do this, by the way! Without the MAF connected the torque converter solenoid sticks which makes shifts feel like you hit something in the road.) So the torque converter solenoid sticking was the first error code to show up, but after I reconnected the MAF, restarted the car and shut it off again and the TC code cleared and what showed up were these:

P1188 Fuel Control (bank 1 sensor 1)
P1189 Fuel Control (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0442 EVAP system small leak detected (gas cap etc?)
P0173 Heated oxygen sensor Bank 2 sensor 1 (H02S21) control adaptation at cruise
P0170 Heated oxygen sensor Bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) control adaptation at cruise

These are nearly identical to the codes user "JSB328I" encountered in the thread above. I will try and PM this thread to him but his page indicates his last visit was two years ago.

Anyway, I have about decided to order the MAF. The car has 90k mi on it so it, and certainly the radiator, are about due but I wanted to get some expert input on this.
The last thing I want to do is to troubleshoot with a massive sensor buying spree.

Thank you! I really appreciate everyone's help!!
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:13 PM
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petriej petriej is offline
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It's possible the sensor went bad from contact with coolant.

I'm not sure the torque converter solenoid issue is related, though.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
2005 X5 4.8is Le Mans/Black/6spd Steptragic
1999 M3 Cabrio TiAg Metallic/Dove Grey/Black 5 Speed Manual
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1997 328iC Schwarz II/K/K 5MT SOLD 5/2012
2004 645Ci Mineral Silver Metallic/Black 6MT RIP 04/2011
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  #3  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:25 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is online now
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meh...no way to say for certain.

however, i do not see any codes indicating maf failure. the heated circuits for the o2 sensor does not affect the performance. they're there simply to help heat the sensors so they stay in the correct operating temp. check the relays for the circuits. this is apparently a common failure for heated circuit codes. especially when both sensors show up like this.

i'd check for rips in the intake boots, which is a common failure.

if the maf was correctly installed, though, i fail to see how coolant could have gotten into the sensor or wiring.

how did it run when connected after the tq converter code was cleared??





df
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:33 AM
RickyCar RickyCar is offline
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Mein Auto: e36 328i vert ('97)
Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post

how did it run when connected after the tq converter code was cleared??

df
It ran crappy after reconnecting the MAF, although with the MAF reconnected the TC didn't jerk any more. The car was very slow to accelerate except after I stopped for maybe a minute and a half at a stop light and then I got pretty decent acceleration although not as it should be. When I start it now with the MAF connected it's very rough and I have difficulty keeping it running but then when I disconnect the MAF it smooths out.

Yes, you would think if the MAF was bad there would be a MAF-related code. Also, the symptoms might suggest a fuel pressure regulator problem -- could that relate to the fuel control sensors, bank 1 & 2? (P1188 & P1189)

I'll check the intake boot (we're talking about the boot connecting the MAF to the throttle body?) and someone also mentioned the hose leading from the oil separator to the dipstick tube, I'll check that as well.
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2012, 06:53 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is online now
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well, if you were to check the interwebz for these codes, most of the links lead to indications of maf failure...of course it's rather difficult to diagnose the signal without the proper tools.

you could try one, but that's up to you. odds are, though, that it'll be a bad maf.



df
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2012, 07:41 AM
RickyCar RickyCar is offline
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Mein Auto: e36 328i vert ('97)
Quick Update:

I took the air cleaner off again yesterday, removed the MAF and the intake boot behind it and for just a few minutes thought I had it cured: The hose that connects to the bottom of the boot and then loops up under the intake manifold (CCV maybe?) was visibly cracked at the end and had been repaired with blue silicone. As the wife had the other car and I couldn't go get a replacement hose, I cleaned the old one, applied new silicone and wrapped that end in duck tape (Of Course!) and put it all back together. (incidentally, there was no clamp on the boot side of the nipple that the hose was clamped to -- should there be?)

Well, I fired her up and for about tenth of a second thought it might be fixed but alas, same old thing.

I'll order or go pick-up an intake manifold gasket set and a length of hose and see what I can see under all that. I am still thinking in spite of the odd vacuum leak that it is in fact the MAF and maybe I'll break down and try a Chinese one before shelling out the big bucks for one from Bosch etc. I see no point in buying used.

Anyway, I'll let you know what I find once I have manifold gaskets in hand.

Thanks again and Ciao for now! :-)
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  #7  
Old 11-02-2012, 09:51 AM
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petriej petriej is offline
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Try to find another e36 you can borrow the MAF from just to make sure.

I've fixed the intake boot with silicone and duct tape before, but it won't last long. Either way, it sounds like something else is going on here.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by e36 miguel View Post
this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
2005 X5 4.8is Le Mans/Black/6spd Steptragic
1999 M3 Cabrio TiAg Metallic/Dove Grey/Black 5 Speed Manual
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1997 328iC Schwarz II/K/K 5MT SOLD 5/2012
2004 645Ci Mineral Silver Metallic/Black 6MT RIP 04/2011
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2012, 11:29 AM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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Mein Auto: '96 328iC, '04 325Ci
Sorry for the late entry on this, but I'm struggling to see how the radiator blow up affected the MAF. You would have to have gotten coolant inside the MAF and coating the sensing resistors in order to do anything to it. Even if you did get coolant in there, some MAF spray cleaner should take care of it.
Have you checked in your fuse box to see if coolant got in there and if it's still wet?
The other place that might have been affected is you may have gotten coolant into the DME compartment if the seal isn't good.
Wetness in either of those locations will cause electrical system and sensor gremlins.
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