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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 11-04-2012, 07:20 PM
maxo898 maxo898 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 740il
97 BMW 740il Alarm key wont open trunk & rear windows wont go down

Hi I have a 1997 BMW 740IL that was fine until i came to unlock all the doors by pressing the unlock botton on my key twice and the sieren only sounded once unlocking only the driver and passenger side doors. It doesn't unlock the rear doors and both windows wont go down. Also you can't open the trunk from the key by pressing the the botton or the button inside the car. The only way to open the trunk is manually with the key. I checked all the fuses in the trunk and they are all good. I change the actuators for the the rear doors with good working actuators and still same problem.
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:30 PM
setconstr setconstr is offline
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re

You should try reprograming your key
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:14 PM
Raji Raji is offline
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Location: California
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 740 IL
Rear doors, windows and trunk won't open from key fob

Just wanted to know if you found any solutions for this problem. I got exactly same issue.
Thanks in advance.
Raji
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  #4  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:39 PM
maxo898 maxo898 is offline
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I found out that it was a 30 amp blown fuse under the hood. Replaced it everything works now.
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  #5  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:56 PM
Raji Raji is offline
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Thanks

Do you happen to remember what number fuse it was, I will check the fuses again .
Greatly appreciate your quick reply.
Thanks a bunch.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:00 PM
maxo898 maxo898 is offline
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Sorry I don't but there isn't a lot of green 30 amp fuses under the hood. Good Luck
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:13 PM
Raji Raji is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 740 IL
97 BMW 740il Alarm key wont open trunk & rear windows wont go down

Thanks.


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  #8  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:34 PM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Mein Auto: '96 740iL
Just an FYI. The front doors work off the door modules while the back doors, fuel door and trunk work from the General Module. Re-iniIalizing your key often solves this issue.
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  #9  
Old 10-26-2013, 02:03 PM
Raji Raji is offline
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Thank you all .
Maxo898 you were right, it was one of the Green 30 Amp fuse under the hood. I replaced it and it works perfect again. Greatly appreciated.
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  #10  
Old 10-26-2013, 08:39 PM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Good to hear. Was is one of the 30A fuses in the fuse carrier that holds 5 fuses? Would be good to know for future reference.
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  #11  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:14 PM
Raji Raji is offline
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Under the hood when you open the fuse box located in right upper corner. The 30 amp Green fuse was in 2nd row from left to right, I believe it is labeled as fuse 29, it was next up to the red fuse from bottom up in second row.
I have picture, but don't know how to post for reference.
Great support guys. Thanks.
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:21 PM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Makes sense. It is one of the ones that covers the General Module. I would think it would also cause other issues handled by the GM but they may be things not used often. Thanks for the info.
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2013, 09:24 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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WOW! Almost a year and we've almost got a resolution to this issue (for those that may find it doing a search in the future)

Since this is a central locking issue...I would assume that the 30amp fuse in question would be one of the ones for the central locking system that would be in the engine bay location. Since we know that the fuel filler flap/door fuse is in the trunk (fuse #53)...then I would assume to look at the fuse index listed on the fuse cover in the engine bay for "central locking system".

And that appears to be fuse #8, #29, & #31...but guess what y'all...all THREE of those fuses are 30 amp fuses. So how about some give-back to the forum and report back which fuse it was that was replaced. We might find out from the two forum members that solved their issue if the fuse # was the same. And if it is, then we will know in the future, that this issue may be resolved by replacing a specific fuse ... just like we do when the fuel filler flap doesn't lock with the central locking system and the remote key doesn't function nor can it be initialized.

This forum functions at its best when forum members post back with resolutions of what works or what doesn't work. Its the collective wisdom, knowledge, & experiences that makes this a great place. If we fail to keep adding to the collective wisdom, knowledge, & experiences...then we might as well fold up shop.

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2013, 11:08 AM
Raji Raji is offline
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It was Green 30 amp fuse located in bottom half of middle row in above fuse box picture, the Green one ABOVE the Red fuse. It immediately resolved my both rear doors, both rear windows as well as the trunk. All of them works perfect after I replaced the fuse. Hope this helps.
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:32 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raji View Post
It was Green 30 amp fuse located in bottom half of middle row in above fuse box picture, the Green one ABOVE the Red fuse. It immediately resolved my both rear doors, both rear windows as well as the trunk. All of them works perfect after I replaced the fuse. Hope this helps.
I believe that is fuse #29. I don't have my e38 handy (drove the x5 today)...but I believe there are approx 16 fuses in each row...so that would make the fuse you mentioned fuse #29.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #16  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:17 PM
lucky 7 lucky 7 is offline
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Location: New York
 
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I just wanna say im new to this forum and I LOVE IT .. I was having the same problem with my 97 740iL and now in 5he morning I will go and check my fuses thanks a lot !!
1 question how much would it cost to replace my key its pretty old and worn
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2014, 12:17 PM
lucky 7 lucky 7 is offline
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Location: New York
 
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it worked !!
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  #18  
Old 01-05-2014, 11:59 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky 7 View Post
1 question how much would it cost to replace my key its pretty old and worn
To replace a remote key usually runs between $150-$300...depending on how much your local BMW dealer charges for one. If all you need is a spare key (for emergencies etc)...then you can order one of the other non-remote keys and they usually run between $45-$100. I would recommend the:
  • illuminated key
  • spare key w/metal blade
  • spare/wallet key w/plastic blade


There's also a valet/service key...but I don't recommend it for a back-up since it can't open the trunk...and that's the #1 place an owner is likely to lock the key inside the vehicle.

If all you need is to refresh your key...the old style key can easily be revived by replacing the rubber key pads (usually for approx $5 on ebay). I've done my 97 e38's remote key & my 99 e39's remote key...see the pics below...and again, you can search google for "BMW rubber key pads" or search eBay:

(my e38's rubber key pad replacement in 2010)
























(did the same to my e39's key in 2012)
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #19  
Old 01-06-2014, 06:02 AM
lucky 7 lucky 7 is offline
Guy 7
Location: New York
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 11
Mein Auto: 740iL
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
To replace a remote key usually runs between $150-$300...depending on how much your local BMW dealer charges for one. If all you need is a spare key (for emergencies etc)...then you can order one of the other non-remote keys and they usually run between $45-$100. I would recommend the:
  • illuminated key
  • spare key w/metal blade
  • spare/wallet key w/plastic blade


There's also a valet/service key...but I don't recommend it for a back-up since it can't open the trunk...and that's the #1 place an owner is likely to lock the key inside the vehicle.

If all you need is to refresh your key...the old style key can easily be revived by replacing the rubber key pads (usually for approx $5 on ebay). I've done my 97 e38's remote key & my 99 e39's remote key...see the pics below...and again, you can search google for "BMW rubber key pads" or search eBay:

(my e38's rubber key pad replacement in 2010)
























(did the same to my e39's key in 2012)

Yea my key jist needed to be refreshed so I ended up ordering the buttons off ebay thanks a lot man
That actually saved me a lot of money
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:54 AM
QSilver7's Avatar
QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 740iL / 2006 X5 4.4
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky 7 View Post
Yea my key jist needed to be refreshed so I ended up ordering the buttons off ebay thanks a lot man
That actually saved me a lot of money
Great...it's nice to be able to give new life to our old keys...for very little money.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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