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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 11-04-2012, 06:04 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
Drivers side door light and chime switch

Where is the light/chime switch located? My inside light stays on all the time and the key chime keeps going when the door is shut and the key is in the ignition.
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2012, 07:35 PM
BK85 BK85 is offline
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Location: Colorado Springs,CO
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 87
Mein Auto: 97 Z3 2.8
I have the same problem since it came back from body shop. If you reach out the window while it is dinging and pull in on the door it stops, let go of door and it starts again. I have tried to adjust the switch button but no luck. The black button is on the body side where the door latches (inside the latch assembly). I can open the door with the key in the ignition and with the bell dinging and push the button and the bell stops. I just can't get enough adjustment out of the latching mechanism. I am considering super gluing a piece of rubber on the button to make it larger.

BK85
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:20 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 76
Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
Chime/dome light switch

Thanks for the information, now that I know where the switch is, I see my problem and hopefully it will answer your problem as well. I noticed there is a small piece of black plastic which is around the latching post on the part mounted on the car body, this had become cracked and did not take up the needed space to make the door switch open, when I rotated the plastic the chime stopped and the light operated as it should. Hope this information helps.
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:43 PM
smayo964 smayo964 is offline
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Location: MS
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: 1999 Z3 Roadster
I posted this in another typical post earlier.

I had the same problem with mine on the driver's door. Come to find out on mine it was the plastic latch on the inside of the door wears down on the diameter where it contacts the switch behind the post. Using aluminum roof flashing material, I made a "shim" that wraps around the backside of the post and switch so when the door shut there was enough pressure to activate the switch. As a test, turn your light on auto and push the switch button behind the post and see if your light goes off. If so, you have the same "opportunity" that I had. Good luck.

Here are some shots of my shim
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My '99 Z3 Alpine White 2.8L Speed Buggy
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2012, 06:03 AM
SUNZOUT SUNZOUT is offline
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Location: Bataiva, IL
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,575
Mein Auto: '00 M Roadster
Just ordered a new door striker for this exact problem - switch had worn down.
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2012, 06:12 AM
BK85 BK85 is offline
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Location: Colorado Springs,CO
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 87
Mein Auto: 97 Z3 2.8
Quote:
Originally Posted by SUNZOUT View Post
Just ordered a new door striker for this exact problem - switch had worn down.
Have you removed the door striker and the plate that holds the switch button before?

When I loosen mine it feels like the backing plate that the switch plate bolts to will fall down inside of the body panel.

What have you found?

BK85
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2012, 08:41 AM
Bob2.8 Bob2.8 is offline
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Location: Duluth MN
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 141
Mein Auto: 1997 2.8
The trick is to get a longer bolt, leave the bottom tight while you take out the top , put in the longer bolt on top leaving it a bit loose. Remove the bottom bolt, swing the striker to the side, put the bottom bolt in snug to hold the plate and remove ther top bolt. YOU DO NOT want to go after a dropped plate. It will turn a minor project into a major one.
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2012, 09:47 AM
smayo964 smayo964 is offline
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Location: MS
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: 1999 Z3 Roadster
Agreed with Bob2.8. The only difference is that I didn't use a longer bolt, but took the top one out and used a piece of coat hanger type wire to hold the plate close to position. In hind sight, a longer bolt would have probably saved a little more time in the reinstall.
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My '99 Z3 Alpine White 2.8L Speed Buggy
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2012, 09:49 AM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
formerly updmst
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 671
Mein Auto: 2000 M Coupe, 1997 318ti
Simple and clever.
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  #10  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:39 PM
BK85 BK85 is offline
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Location: Colorado Springs,CO
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 87
Mein Auto: 97 Z3 2.8
Thanks, good info.

BK85
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  #11  
Old 05-07-2014, 06:13 AM
timjowers timjowers is offline
Red Z3
Location: charlotte
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 1996 z3
You guys rock. Thanks for the info. While I'm missing a work meeting for my dead battery, thanks to you telling me the pressure button is on the strike plate, I just put some wire string around it and think I'll be good to go in a few hours after the charging completes. Thanks smayo964 and others.
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2014, 04:44 PM
smayo964 smayo964 is offline
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Location: MS
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 151
Mein Auto: 1999 Z3 Roadster
Timjowers. Just letting you know that I have changed the temporary "shim" I used. I took (3) zip-ties, tape them side-by-side with wide plastic tape to make a wide flat surface, wound them thru and behind the switch (w/o removing the switch), and then tightened the zip-ties to make loose fit. Worked perfect. I was going to replace the switch after the first shim broke, but this has been working since. The trick is to have the taped surface end up right over the switch button after you connect the zip ties. I have the zip-tie connectosr on the bottom so you don't see them. Good luck.
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My '99 Z3 Alpine White 2.8L Speed Buggy
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