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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 11-09-2012, 02:20 PM
SUNZOUT SUNZOUT is offline
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Door Striker DIY

Added a DIY to replace the door striker.

For Z3's it has a micro switch for the alarm/interior light and it will wear out and stop functioning

Full details in the DIY thread

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=96
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  #2  
Old 04-12-2015, 10:55 AM
beezzeerr beezzeerr is offline
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Mein Auto: 96 z3
door striker......

Thank for the post. I had similar situation. After removing interior trim screw and gaining accees behind the trim found a 3 - 4 inch panel right above the grommet for the striker switch wire. I could get my hand inside and manipulate the plate quite easily. Thanks again for the post.

Beezzeerr...........:
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  #3  
Old 12-22-2015, 07:02 PM
mitrebox mitrebox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beezzeerr View Post
Thank for the post. I had similar situation. After removing interior trim screw and gaining accees behind the trim found a 3 - 4 inch panel right above the grommet for the striker switch wire. I could get my hand inside and manipulate the plate quite easily. Thanks again for the post.

Beezzeerr...........:
The instructions and contributions from everyone are most helpful. But this is my conundrum.

The plug end of the wire from the old striker has been tucked, and fastened to a bundle of wires, quite a way under the carpeting behind the driver's seat. (Driver's side is what I'm working on.) My fear is that pulling too hard on the wire will unplug it and I will be unable to connect the new striker wire to the "hidden" plug.

It looks like I need to remove the plastic trim that overlaps the carpeting behind the seat in order to get to where I can safely unplug the old and plug-in the new. Can anyone give me a hint or two on how to safely remove that big piece of plastic without destroying it in the process?

Replacing the striker should not take too long if only the plug was easily accessible. But, in their infinite wisdom, they have made even the most simple R&R's a really time consuming project. I guess, if all else fails, I can splice the new striker's wires into the old but I'd really like to keep it clean with no jerry rigging, and do a proper job.

Thanks for your help.
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Last edited by mitrebox; 12-27-2015 at 09:25 AM.
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  #4  
Old 12-24-2015, 05:22 PM
ZZZING ZZZING is offline
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Instructions to remove trim behind driver's seat

1. Remove the plastic trim in the door sill by lifting upwards and outwards with your fingers. It is held on by 3 plastic peg/clips. Don't be afraid to pull hard, it will flex and snap out.

2. Remove the screw exposed at the rear end of the door sill, this will loosen the plastic trim next to and behind the seat. Move the seat as far forward as possible to create room to work. Next remove the screw midway (sunk in a round hole) up on the plastic trim behind the seat. Gently loosen the trim piece from the black rubber trim going up the back of the door opening, and the large rubber piece at the top rear of the door. You don't have to remove this piece.
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  #5  
Old 12-27-2015, 09:29 AM
mitrebox mitrebox is offline
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Location: Littleton, Colorado
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZING View Post
1. Remove the plastic trim in the door sill by lifting upwards and outwards with your fingers. It is held on by 3 plastic peg/clips. Don't be afraid to pull hard, it will flex and snap out.

2. Remove the screw exposed at the rear end of the door sill, this will loosen the plastic trim next to and behind the seat. Move the seat as far forward as possible to create room to work. Next remove the screw midway (sunk in a round hole) up on the plastic trim behind the seat. Gently loosen the trim piece from the black rubber trim going up the back of the door opening, and the large rubber piece at the top rear of the door. You don't have to remove this piece.
Thanks for that information. I'll let you know how I do. May not get to it today; temperature was 7.5 degrees, f, when I got up this morning and my garage is frigid.

UPDATE: This post should be called "How many tools does it take to unplug and plug a connection on a BMW?

All done, after almost two hours of improvising.

Armed with your answer to my conundrum, I was able to yank up the back end of the sill piece, slide it back to release the front clip, slide it forward to expose the screw that's holds that long piece, bend it back enough to get at the plug and use the extra long, 90 degree and the 11 inch needle nose to reach in and maneuver the plug loose. Could not pull it far enough out get my hands around it, so between the 16 inch and 11 inch tools, I was able R&R the plug. What a PITA!!! But, it's done, the car is back together, the interior light works like it's supposed to... But, the doors still don't lock when I start driving (my next project***128576.

Thank you all, again.
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2001 ///M Roadster - Titanium Silver
F: GC/Koni short coilover struts, Eibach, TC Kline Camber Plates, Wilwood front brakes, GC tubular swaybar. R: TC Kline springs, short Bilsteins, IE sub & swingarm bushings & shock mounts, 3.23 rear, Rogue dual-ear cover, Eisenmann 4x83 pipes. MISC: Sport mode, Rogue pulleys, Viper Alarm with Remote Start, RG Motorsport cold air intake.

Last edited by mitrebox; 12-27-2015 at 03:42 PM.
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