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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:13 AM
danzee danzee is offline
BMW CCCA since 1986
Location: Maryland
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Mein Auto: E34, E39, E46
This H/W Store O-ring worked fine for me

This one from the hardware store worked perfectly. I lubricated it with antifreeze solution (50-50) and it went in without a problem. No leaks after test rides.

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  #77  
Old 12-14-2012, 06:20 PM
scottcaylor scottcaylor is offline
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Location: Houston
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 15
Mein Auto: 2005 325i
ECS Tuning has the original green O-Ring from BMW. Look in the parts drill down under engine/cooling/fan.
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  #78  
Old 12-15-2012, 08:35 AM
danzee danzee is offline
BMW CCCA since 1986
Location: Maryland
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 35
Mein Auto: E34, E39, E46
FWIW, I did not leave the H/W store o-ring in place for long. I replaced it with the green OE one from the dealer. Not sure about the compatibility of the black one with antifreeze

Last edited by danzee; 12-15-2012 at 08:37 AM. Reason: dyng keyboard batteries
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  #79  
Old 08-07-2013, 06:17 AM
micosan micosan is offline
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Location: TX
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 51
Mein Auto: 550i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
Micro, good for you. New sensor is GOOD. I replaced just the o-ring and the new one lasted just for a year, I have a couple of them , so I keep replacing them, but One day I'll just splurge and spend $16 on a new sensor :-) Replacement o-rings are great but they just do not last too long...
Starless,
IIRC, are you replacing your OEM o-ring for the last 2-3 years on a yearly basis because it is failing? It must be very easy for you to do this so frequently.
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  #80  
Old 08-15-2013, 01:43 AM
gunno65 gunno65 is offline
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Location: bunbury west australia
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2002 318ti
thanks for the info here guys, this would probably explain the coolant leak that suddenly started on my 318ti, any idea if airconditioning system o-rings would do the job as they are high pressure & temp rated as I work for an auto electrical & thermal control supplier
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  #81  
Old 12-16-2013, 07:25 PM
kputty kputty is offline
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Location: New Mexico
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 2004 325i
super easy

Thinking you just saved me a couple hundred dollars and a trip to the dealership. Had a slow coolant leak. Found this forum and thought I'd give it a try. There was definitely residue coming from sensor and the only spot I saw any other residue was directly below the sensor. The car sat for about 24 hours in the garage. The temp in there never got about 60 degrees. I was ready for a quick swap as I didn't flush the system. I didn't loose any coolant when I took the old sensor out. I had to add about 500 ml to bring the coolant level back to normal though. The whole process took about 5 minutes. I purchased the sensor through Amazon for $32.

I'll update tomorrow after I drive the car.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jcourcoul View Post
Have you noticed that the coolant level seems to slowly drop but all the hoses look clean and dry? You may be suffering a small leak in the temperature sensor located in the lower left radiator hose. This sensor uses an O-ring that can shrink and harden with age, allowing small amounts of coolant to ooze when the engine is hot and the radiator is under pressure, but the amount evaporates or blows off, without leaving much of a trace. In this DIY, we'll see how to replace the part to neutralize the leak. No tools are needed and the only part you have to get is a new sensor, P/N 13621433077, $32 MSRP, can be found in the market in the $17-$40 range. You may be able to get a replacement O-ring and change only that for less. As a side note, this sensor is used to control the electrical fan in front of the radiator to maintain coolant temperature.

First off, let the car be totally and absolutely cold. Do the repair next morning. Not only you won't be scalded, but you will lose a lot less coolant. If you were planning on flushing the cooland as regular maintenance, you can go ahead and drain the old coolant now, but you can change the sensor without doing that.If you are not flushing the old coolant at this time, make sure the pressure cap on the expansion tank is screwed on tight; do not remove it. The sensor location is shown in pic. #1, you may see a slight ooze on the pressure relief holes on both sides.

You are replacing the old sensor, #2, with a new one, #3. Note how the new O-ring is much rounder. Sensor is held in place by the two side tabs. If you're doing a "live exchange" (no flush), you can make the new sensor slide in easier by pre-lubeing the O-ring with undiluted BMW coolant.

The connector needs to be removed first, the sensor cannot be removed otherwise. As shown in #4, pull out and hold the chrome retaining clip and pull the connector straight up. If it resists, that means you are not pulling the clip out enough.

Now comes the quick part if you don't want to lose too much coolant. Place the new sensor in an easy and quick to reach location. As shown in #5, pinch the two side tabs on the old sensor together and pull gently but firmly straight up. The old sensor may be somewhat stuck in there, but do not go Neanderthal on it cause the hose fitting can be damaged and then you'll have much bigger problems. When it releases, quickly pull it out, set aside, grab the new sensor and slide it in until it clicks in place, noting that it is keyed. Don't overdo the pressure for the same reason as before.

Before reconnecting, I like to daub a smidge of dielectric grease on all my connectors to keep the moisture out and to ease the next disconnect, #6. Just press on till the retaining clip clicks on. Now unscrew the pressure cap on the expansion tank and fill up the missing coolant. Giv'er a whirl to get everything nice, hot and pressurized, to make sure the leak is fixed? Time for a beer or whatever fluid suits your fancy after this extenuating repair job?

Next time around, you could change the O-ring on the old sensor you removed, use that and save a bit.
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  #82  
Old 12-17-2013, 06:18 AM
ahull's Avatar
ahull ahull is offline
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Location: Carolina
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,324
Mein Auto: ist schnell! (03 330i SC)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kputty View Post
Thinking you just saved me a couple hundred dollars and a trip to the dealership. Had a slow coolant leak. Found this forum and thought I'd give it a try. There was definitely residue coming from sensor and the only spot I saw any other residue was directly below the sensor. The car sat for about 24 hours in the garage. The temp in there never got about 60 degrees. I was ready for a quick swap as I didn't flush the system. I didn't loose any coolant when I took the old sensor out. I had to add about 500 ml to bring the coolant level back to normal though. The whole process took about 5 minutes. I purchased the sensor through Amazon for $32.

I'll update tomorrow after I drive the car.


Also, check out the e46 wiki: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...05#post8014505
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2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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