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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the latest evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki |
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#1
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Break Jobs on BMW
Not that I need brakes now but I have a question, when you replace the brake pads on BMW 's is it standard practice to also repace the rotors also? Or is it acceptable to turn the rotors providing there is enough thickness to allow them being turned?
I feel confident that the BMW palace will recommend all new rotors and pads Hondo |
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#2
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BMW always recommends replacing the rotors because they are soft and tend wear below spec. Front rotors are almost always below spec when the pads are shot. You will get a nice warped rotors if you don't. Rear rotors usually are OK (unless of course you are way into the DSC which activates them).
As an example I replaced a set of M3 E36 brakes pads with over 50% pad left (pads replaced with Cool Carbons to eliminate dusting the wheels). Rotors were spec something like 26.4 mm and measured 25.6 mm (from memory but 1 mm too thin). Rears might have been OK but since I replaced the front I decided to replace the rear rotors regardless and bleed the brakes giving me a new set of brakes. It is false economy to do it any other way because you pay for labor and if you have too thin rotors and warp the rotors then you have much work to do to get back to the rotors. BMW brakes are some of the easiest to work on, a little time and virtually no special tools. There is no reason to take the car to the dealer when a good indy can do this for you. My complete brake change over took about 3 1/2 hours and I also changed the oil and filter at the same time... |
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#3
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Brake not break
Depending upon the pad, you can sometimes get two sets of pads between replacing the rotors. But the slightly harder OEM pads often wear the rotors below spec in one go-round.
The cost of brake jobs by the dealers is one reason many of us do our own. They charge un-reasonable prices for the parts, and charge the maximum hours even if they get done in 1/2 the time. |
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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If you are doing on your own, replace your pads only (they're pretty inexpensive) the first time and see how it feels. The worst case scenario is it won't feel perfect and you'll know the next time to replace rotors and pads. You can do it pretty quickly on these cars (just You Tube it if you don't know how). Rotors can be gotten pretty inexpensively especially compared to what shops charge. Most places don't even turn rotors anymore they just replace them along with new brake pads. Here's a link to where I get all of my stuff if I can wait to do the job:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ake_rotor.html Last edited by sptt144; 11-12-2012 at 10:01 PM. |
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#6
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thanks, thats what I kind of thought, there is plenty of pad left on the front and rear and there is already a lip on the edge of the rotors. A brake job is easy for me, Ihave all the tools a 80 gallon IR aircompressor, and knowledge to to it. probably need to get myself a service manual just for the information
thanks Hondo |
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#7
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There are so many write ups on this that getting a Bentley manual is not really needed.
All you need is the torque valves for the caliper holder and the guide pins. The write ups and you tube videos are spot on and for that matter hitting Bav Auto's site too has this. I am a stickler for doing it right but there are so many good sources on this that this is one time a Bentley isn't needed. Hardest part of the whole job is getting the LF and RR brake sensor in and out and removing and installing the anti rattle clip... |
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#8
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When changing the rotors make sure all the crud left by the old rotor is scraped away from where the new rotor will seat, otherwise a 'wobbly' rotor will ensue, leading to vibration when braking.
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One should treat others as one would like others to treat oneself. |
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