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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 11-07-2012, 03:06 PM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Location: Albany, GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1994 525i
94 525i no-start issue

Before I begin, I've been reading these forums since October of last year when I got my 1994 525i, and I must say you all seem like a wonderful community and very knowledgeable. I've got my Bentley manual and I've got my multimeter. The things I've learned from the manual and from here have been indispensible.

The Good: I love this car. It's the first vehicle I have ever purchased for myself, and it's been incredible. The engine is sound, tires are new and I've been getting more hands-on with fixes.

The Bad: About a week ago, I was leaving a friend's house, took a right hand turn and began accelerating. There was no noise, no thuds, no anything, the engine just shut off and I read a Trans Program error. I coasted to the side of the road, put the car in park and attempted to restart the engine. It took 3 tries to get it to fire. I didn't get a limp mode or anything, it drove fine. I got home and went to do a stomp test, and noticed my check engine light didn't come on (it came on fine every time before that morning). I began reading and looking around for similar problems.


Symptoms:

No start, had no power to the E-box, but it seems to be back now, I checked it this afternoon and blam power.

No fuel pump start-up upon turning the key.

Engine turns fine, never starts.

Battery is <1 year old, it reads fine.




Problems:

I'm about as car literate as a fish, but I've got years of computer hardware experience, so I equate the two to mean I can follow directions if I know what to look for.

My E-box looks completely different inside than any of the other ones I've ever seen pictures of, so I'm not sure which relay is which.

There's this other box on the passenger side that I have no clue about, I don't have a screwdriver this size handy and everyone's seems to have run off.


If I've forgotten anything or you have more questions to ask, please let me know, I'll be happy to take pictures and do tests on anything on the vehicle.


Attachments:

Photo 1 is the box on the driver's side of the vehicle under the hood.
Photo 2 is the box that I haven't opened.
Photo 3 is the electronics under the back seat.
Photo 4 is the electrical box about 16 inches away from the driver's side fuse box in Photo 1.
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  #2  
Old 11-07-2012, 03:42 PM
BMR_LVR's Avatar
BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Still very busy at work right now, and will give more thought to this later, but check your fusible link near the battery. There are a multitude of things that can cause a no-start, but the lack of power to the DME makes me think that the fusible link may be bad.

Oh yeah, Welcome to the Fest!
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #3  
Old 11-07-2012, 04:14 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Hi and welcome. It sounds like you have connections going bad. Also those boxes under the hood (bonnet) have been known to fill with water - check them out. Battery cables, joints and earths (grounds) also will need a good hard look. Fixes in other posts have been re-soldering relay connections.
This sounds like a look, look and look again problem that will cost $10 to fix but an age to find.
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  #4  
Old 11-07-2012, 04:20 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post


Symptoms:

No start, had no power to the E-box, but it seems to be back now, I checked it this afternoon and blam power.

No fuel pump start-up upon turning the key.

Engine turns fine, never starts.

Battery is <1 year old, it reads fine.




Problems:

I'm about as car literate as a fish, but I've got years of computer hardware experience, so I equate the two to mean I can follow directions if I know what to look for.

My E-box looks completely different inside than any of the other ones I've ever seen pictures of, so I'm not sure which relay is which.

There's this other box on the passenger side that I have no clue about, I don't have a screwdriver this size handy and everyone's seems to have run off.


If I've forgotten anything or you have more questions to ask, please let me know, I'll be happy to take pictures and do tests on anything on the vehicle.


Attachments:

Photo 1 is the box on the driver's side of the vehicle under the hood.
Photo 2 is the box that I haven't opened.
Photo 3 is the electronics under the back seat.
Photo 4 is the electrical box about 16 inches away from the driver's side fuse box in Photo 1.
Before I continue, if you've been on these forums for more than a year, then you should have seen numerous no-start situations which could have been eliminated by doing the following :

1. Replace fuel pump with a new oem one (together with o ring). $200+$10. 30-45 mins labour.
2. Replace fuel pump relay. $10. 1 minute labour.
3. Replace crankshaft position sensor. Up to $100. 15-30 mins labour.

These are common failure items for our poor E34 when it reaches this age, and they fail without warning and leave you stranded somewhere. If you are able to crank your car, and it just won't start, then 90% chance that its one of the above 3. Use this downtime to do all of them and put this issue behind you pretty much for good, especially since this is your dd.

Photo 1 is your fuse box. Please check if your fp's fuse is alright.
#2 is where the fuel pump's relay is located. It should be an orange 4 pronged relay. There is a relay diagram etched into the side of the relay itself, you'll know which leads to jump from that to close the circuit but please consult Bentley for proper instructions. Btw, this box is your dme box.
#3 contains some fuses and near that, you'll find the fusible link. When this goes out, the car does not start, period. Since its so troublesome to check and it does go bust occasionally, and since a new one is cheap, I would change that too. At least, inspect it and see if it looks good (it well might).
#4 would be relays for the aux fan etc. Consult Bentley for more details.

Since you've been on these forums for a year, you would have also noticed the sizable number of overheat issues reported here. Most of them are traced to a faulty water pump and thermostat. Most people don't change that out when they should and previous owners are notorious for this. I suggest you change yours out as well as a precaution. The wp with a composite impeller costs $60 shipped at O reilly's and a thermostat typically costs $20. On top of that, please check if your aux fan is functioning fine at both speed settings. The Bentley manual has instructions.

If I'm not wrong, some or all of the above is covered in the sticky maintenance thread at the top of the forums. I strongly recommend that you read through it carefully.

Only refrain from changing out anything that I've suggested if you have reliable evidence that they were done in the last 4 years (this does not apply to the wp though).

I really should come up with a stock post.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-07-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-07-2012, 05:12 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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A little more time to give some thought to it now.

Centrisian, have you performed the stomp test to check for fault codes? If not, here is the procedure:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...65#post5936965

Let us know what your results are.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #6  
Old 11-07-2012, 05:27 PM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Location: Albany, GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1994 525i
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
1. Replace fuel pump with a new oem one (together with o ring). $200+$10. 30-45 mins labour.
2. Replace fuel pump relay. $10. 1 minute labour.
3. Replace crankshaft position sensor. Up to $100. 15-30 mins labour.

Photo 1 is your fuse box. Please check if your fp's fuse is alright.
#2 is where the fuel pump's relay is located. It should be an orange 4 pronged relay. There is a relay diagram etched into the side of the relay itself, you'll know which leads to jump from that to close the circuit but please consult Bentley for proper instructions. Btw, this box is your dme box.
#3 contains some fuses and near that, you'll find the fusible link. When this goes out, the car does not start, period. Since its so troublesome to check and it does go bust occasionally, and since a new one is cheap, I would change that too. At least, inspect it and see if it looks good (it well might).
#4 would be relays for the aux fan etc. Consult Bentley for more details.
I've obtained a screwdriver for tomorrow. I replaced the FP fuse first thing when I got home after it shut off (I've been reading, )
I'll check the fusible link in the morning, it's a bit dark and cold here presently.
I had ordered a fuel pump relay as had been recommended in other threads, but was shipped the wrong part, re-ordering and returning that tomorrow as well.
The CPS, is that something that can be tested for faultiness before replacing it? (If it's in the Bentley, I'll go read up on it.)
That being the DME box explains why I was scratching my head wondering why nothing looked right.
The aux fan will be done tomorrow as well. Lack of tools where I'm at hurts when things break.

I have noticed the overheat issues and replaced the pump/thermostat about 6 months after I bought it. I actually spent more time playing with parts and fixing things the first few months. It sat for 6 months in an impound lot in south FL and then a few more months after that by the previous owner before he sold it. When I got it, it hadn't been driven in almost a year, but had been in for 3 oil changes and 2 other service receipts came with the car.

Last edited by Centrisian; 11-07-2012 at 05:29 PM.
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  #7  
Old 11-07-2012, 05:42 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Mein Auto: 1992 525i
The CPS (crankshaft position sensor) can be checked with an ohm meter. It is covered in the Bentley manual. Be aware that the Bentley manual had a misprint on the specs. The manual states 1280 +/- 10%. The correct reading is 540 +/- 10%

There is a good trouble shooting guide in Bentley as well.

I highly recommend testing components and determining what is actually at fault before you go throwing a lot of parts at it.

No-starts can be very frustrating. It is usally either a fuel delivery problem (fp fuse, fp relay, fp) or electrical problem (usually a bad CPS - very common failure item).

I usually start with checking the fuel delivery first. I usually do a simple test of squirting some starting fluid into the intake. If it fires up for a few seconds, then you have confirmed that the electrical system is okay and you have a fuel delivery problem.

If it doesn't fire up, then you have, for the most part, ruled out the fuel delivery system .... but not entirely.

Keep plugging away and you will eventually figure it out.

Good luck.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #8  
Old 11-07-2012, 05:52 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I highly recommend doing anticipatory repairs that have not been done, during a single down time event and would not consider that throwing parts at a problem (a situation where you change things in the gamble that it fixes the problem, without knowing exactly what was wrong in the first place).

Especially if you have a no start situation in your E34, your no start situation itself proves that you've lost the gamble to avoid spending money so it doesn't seem prudent to keep playing the lottery again and again particularly when we're dealing with established issues. And changing the listed parts will likely fix your current issue.

Here's a relevant writeup on the cps :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=656808

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-07-2012 at 06:03 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-10-2012, 04:37 AM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Location: Albany, GA
 
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Well, I would be working on my car today, but I just can't seem to walk away from the 2 day old bundle of joy that was brought into my life Thursday.

I did however look at the fuel pump relay. Looks normal, ordered one last night though. Ordered a CPS at $60 yesterday as well, so now I'm in the waiting for things to get here game.

Back to the napping while I haven't been found yet, it's my turn to change diapers
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  #10  
Old 11-10-2012, 04:39 AM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Location: Albany, GA
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
A little more time to give some thought to it now.

Centrisian, have you performed the stomp test to check for fault codes? If not, here is the procedure:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...65#post5936965

Let us know what your results are.
The CEL is definitely out. It's 4th on my list of things to fix soon.
Didn't actually see this post somehow.
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  #11  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:09 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post
Well, I would be working on my car today, but I just can't seem to walk away from the 2 day old bundle of joy that was brought into my life Thursday.

I did however look at the fuel pump relay. Looks normal, ordered one last night though. Ordered a CPS at $60 yesterday as well, so now I'm in the waiting for things to get here game.

Back to the napping while I haven't been found yet, it's my turn to change diapers
Well done. That's truly good news. A new arrival tends to create alot of perspective in one's life. In some cases you will cool your heels, in others you will really start to fly.

I wonder what a "babe-on-da-E34's-hood" picture would look like.

Naahh...

p.s. That CPS that you purchased MUST be OEM or a reputable aftermarket supplier ( i know of none, but there may be some as I've not done research here). If its none oem, please have it exchanged.

I believe OEM for our car's CPS would be either bosch or vdo.
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2012, 08:32 AM
danzee danzee is offline
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Sorry, Didn't see your problem was No Start.

Jumped the gun. Sorry.

Last edited by danzee; 11-10-2012 at 08:37 AM. Reason: Didn't read enough of the thread
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2012, 12:48 AM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Location: Albany, GA
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Well done. That's truly good news. A new arrival tends to create alot of perspective in one's life. In some cases you will cool your heels, in others you will really start to fly.

I wonder what a "babe-on-da-E34's-hood" picture would look like.

Naahh...

p.s. That CPS that you purchased MUST be OEM or a reputable aftermarket supplier ( i know of none, but there may be some as I've not done research here). If its none oem, please have it exchanged.

I believe OEM for our car's CPS would be either bosch or vdo.
I managed to get it that low after a parts dispute over an unrelated part and got a manager's discount + refunded part cost for another part I had ordered that wasn't what I ordered. (Yay guy who can't find me a 4 pin orange relay and instead believes a pale green one with a completely different pinout will work just the same. )
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2012, 04:10 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post
I managed to get it that low after a parts dispute over an unrelated part and got a manager's discount + refunded part cost for another part I had ordered that wasn't what I ordered. (Yay guy who can't find me a 4 pin orange relay and instead believes a pale green one with a completely different pinout will work just the same. )


The fuel pump (fp) will fail at around this time too and it is a no-start issue. Well, it would be wise for you to purchase a piersburg or bosch fuel pump for your car. Costs $200. Some people use the warlburg pump, and LD (luckydog, one of our older members) uses a different brand which only costs $120 and it has gotten him good results.

The fp's O ring is advised to be changed at the same time as, costs $10.

It would be a smart move to purchase a red-label dme off Ebay for your ride. It usually costs under $70 shipped. The dme almost never goes bust but hey it has happened and dmes are currently available on ebay so why take the chance? The dme can be resold down the line for the same price or at a slight profit if you sell off the car, so the $70 would be considered refundable insurance and wouldn't be wasted. However, for a red label dme to work on your car, the ews system will have to be bypassed. There's a master thread on this here so you'll have no trouble if you ever need to do this.

If you really wish to be cost efficient, your old fuel pump and cps can both be sold off together for like $50 used. Or you could keep them as working spares, though you'll never need it.

Good luck.


rgds,
Roberto

p.s. Have not read thoroughly. Have you swopped in a new fp relay ? Did it fix your ride? If you haven't, have you tried jumping the relay? You can drive your car with a jumped, fused relay...it is very simple to construct, and you'll just have to disengage it if you're going to shut down the car for some time else the battery might go flat. All of this is easy. Bentley has the instructions.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-11-2012 at 04:17 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2012, 09:47 AM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post


The fuel pump (fp) will fail at around this time too and it is a no-start issue. Well, it would be wise for you to purchase a piersburg or bosch fuel pump for your car. Costs $200. Some people use the warlburg pump, and LD (luckydog, one of our older members) uses a different brand which only costs $120 and it has gotten him good results.

The fp's O ring is advised to be changed at the same time as, costs $10.

It would be a smart move to purchase a red-label dme off Ebay for your ride. It usually costs under $70 shipped. The dme almost never goes bust but hey it has happened and dmes are currently available on ebay so why take the chance? The dme can be resold down the line for the same price or at a slight profit if you sell off the car, so the $70 would be considered refundable insurance and wouldn't be wasted. However, for a red label dme to work on your car, the ews system will have to be bypassed. There's a master thread on this here so you'll have no trouble if you ever need to do this.

If you really wish to be cost efficient, your old fuel pump and cps can both be sold off together for like $50 used. Or you could keep them as working spares, though you'll never need it.

Good luck.


rgds,
Roberto

p.s. Have not read thoroughly. Have you swopped in a new fp relay ? Did it fix your ride? If you haven't, have you tried jumping the relay? You can drive your car with a jumped, fused relay...it is very simple to construct, and you'll just have to disengage it if you're going to shut down the car for some time else the battery might go flat. All of this is easy. Bentley has the instructions.
Unfortunately for those of us with the PDF, it's not indexed or searchable without manually scrolling, but that's only a minor inconvenience, and it's taking only slightly longer than a hard copy would. The pdf version also seems to be missing the last of the index (S-Z), and that could potentially help.

Do I really have to take off the intake manifold to change the CPS?

I did put in a new FP relay, no avail, but at least it's swapped out.

Now, the DME, I seem to recall that bypassing it is something that started with '95s. If I'm wrong, please correct me, just something that my brain seems to tell me I read here somewhere.

Changing the fuel pump is slightly beyond the scope my knowledge, but that's only because I've never tried it. I'm hoping that it's still alright, as a $200 pump isn't in the budget this week, diapers and other baby needs took priority.

Also, is it normal for the CPS end at the timing case to be difficult to pull out? I'm assuming it's because of magnetization, but for all I know it could just be difficult to pull. Suggestions there? I'm actively working on it all day today as the weather is gorgeous and quite cool.

I've yet to be discouraged though, I'm picking up what is what and what goes where, and after all, learning is my favorite activity.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:36 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post
Unfortunately for those of us with the PDF, it's not indexed or searchable without manually scrolling, but that's only a minor inconvenience, and it's taking only slightly longer than a hard copy would. The pdf version also seems to be missing the last of the index (S-Z), and that could potentially help.

Do I really have to take off the intake manifold to change the CPS?

I did put in a new FP relay, no avail, but at least it's swapped out.

Now, the DME, I seem to recall that bypassing it is something that started with '95s. If I'm wrong, please correct me, just something that my brain seems to tell me I read here somewhere.

Changing the fuel pump is slightly beyond the scope my knowledge, but that's only because I've never tried it. I'm hoping that it's still alright, as a $200 pump isn't in the budget this week, diapers and other baby needs took priority.

Also, is it normal for the CPS end at the timing case to be difficult to pull out? I'm assuming it's because of magnetization, but for all I know it could just be difficult to pull. Suggestions there? I'm actively working on it all day today as the weather is gorgeous and quite cool.

I've yet to be discouraged though, I'm picking up what is what and what goes where, and after all, learning is my favorite activity.
Congratulations on the baby, I hope mommy and baby are healthly and well!

Now back to the baby that I can actualy help with:
1) You do NOT have to remove the intake manifold for the CPS. Just follow the wire from the front of the black where the CPS is screwed in to the connector. Unclip it. I changed mine recently as a preventative measure and It wasnt very difficult. Removing fan clutch and hose from thermostat hosing on passenger side will make the much easier, but add the headache of coolant draining filling and bleeding so yes, it is difficult no matter which way you slice it, due to things being in the way.

2) Before you tackle the DME, you said that you would turn the car on and not hear the fuel pump whirring away or making noise? I would have almost certaintly gone to the Fuel pump and relay with the utmost priority. You did the relay which leaves the pump. I also replaced mine as a preventative measure recently, and let me tell you, its much more scary than difficult. You could do it in a half hour. Theres a little plate that screws it into the tank that is accessable from the trunk. I used this link to walk myself through it; its the same process for us and it will be obvious which steps dont apply to us. E34 Fuel Pump DIY

3) Have we tackled the fuesable link by the battery yet? I remember that being a popular suspect... Lets do that first...
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  #17  
Old 11-13-2012, 03:55 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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If your engine cranks fine, then its not the battery or lose battery connections, fusible link, or primary EWS system. You can rule those out (but do look at your fusible link sometime soon to make sure its in good shape).

As the padre said, you don't need to remove the intake manifold to get at the crankshaft position sensor. If its proving difficult and if you don't have a niece handy, then you might have to remove the air intake apparatus and the air cooling tubes for the alternator, to create more space for yourself to insert your hand. Please work in well lit conditions, and exercise patience.

No, you shouldn't have difficulty removing the CPS purely because of the magnetized head. The magnet does not hold the head to the bolt. Removing it can sometimes be hard because its been there so long. WD40, deep creep, and gentle manoeuvring around is what you need. For the M50 engine, you don't need to remove the fan clutch or anything else to do this, but it will be a tight fit so you need to be patient and focused. And, if you are replacing the cps, you can use a mallet to whack this around, but do not ever whack the new cps into the bolt hole.....clean the hole up, if you suspect its going to be hard getting it back in, use the old cps to "smoothen" the hole, use a file, use wd40 too. And when you reconnect the cps to the car's wire harness, you may elect to reroute it and cable tie it to the dipstick for easier access in future (not that you'd need it but its always nice to see it).

I understand that cash is tight. Here's where credit cards come in. Please consider the interest that you're paying on the $200 do be your insurance premium for something that Tibetan E34 owners (with the M kit installed, M is for mountain) refer to as UPOM (utmost peace of mind), . LuckyDog has another pump he swears by that's only $120 you can pm him for more details.

I've not looked at the padre's fp diy link but i concur with him that the fp change is indeed much easier than it looks and if he's posting that link, it will be all that you need. And don't forget, you'll need the O ring, $10.

But right now, please check for current at the fp's harness connection, and check the corresponding fp's prongs itself for continuity (no continuity means the pump is surely dead). You'll need to refer to the bentley manual for this. You can download a searchable version here :

http://www.mediafire.com/?h0qc7l65rzjp25k



If your FP is is good, its getting electricity, your relay is new, the fp's fuse is ok, the cps is new, and your car is not starting up, then you're in the Obscure E34 no-start territory.....improbable but happens. Check to see that you've got spark.....and that your transmission is in park first. It too happens lolol ! You'll also need to check on the engine coolant temperature sensor...it can cause no-starts.

Again. I assume that the stomp test does not work or has not given you any decent codes.

And don't forget, you'll need to tackle some routinely overlooked cooling system components to prevent an overheat. I'm talking about the water pump and thermostat (under $80 total at Oreilly's before shipping), a check on the aux fan and its temperature sensor, a new rad cap and bleed screw (these last 2 are $15 total).....unless you have reliable proof that this was done recently. We can get to that once your car is under way and you have more time on your hands.

When you do any work, double check it calmly after you've finished. Make sure nothing is loose, nothing is left behind, and everything looks normal. Never rush through repairs. Treat it as a zen meditation or a stress relief exercise if you can.
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  #18  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:32 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Do not hammer the old CPS out or file anything in there. It will slide out when you gently twist it back and forth. It's a snug fit, there will be nothing but spotless clean metal in there. Mine looked like a brand new whirlpool fridge and thats after 250k miles.

Roberto, OP has stated that he already had a Bentley manual, but that will be helpful to others.

I would still check the fuseable link as it may still work or function sporadically, which is why OP's car died and then came back intermittently in the following days.

I used a used fuel pump at first because I was a starving college student, to hold me over until I could afford a new oem+ quality pump. You could do the same. Get your multimeter on that pump and see if it is getting power, if it is (you already did the FP relay and fuse) it'll not likely be the issue.
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  #19  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:57 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 E34 View Post
Do not hammer the old CPS out or file anything in there. It will slide out when you gently twist it back and forth. It's a snug fit, there will be nothing but spotless clean metal in there. Mine looked like a brand new whirlpool fridge and thats after 250k miles.

Roberto, OP has stated that he already had a Bentley manual, but that will be helpful to others.

I would still check the fuseable link as it may still work or function sporadically, which is why OP's car died and then came back intermittently in the following days.

I used a used fuel pump at first because I was a starving college student, to hold me over until I could afford a new oem+ quality pump. You could do the same. Get your multimeter on that pump and see if it is getting power, if it is (you already did the FP relay and fuse) it'll not likely be the issue.
Hi Padre,

I had a friend struggle to remove his old CPS and reinsert his new one on his E36 M50, hence my comments. I agree that it shouldn't be hard to remove it at all, it wasn't for mine. However, if it is, at least you're clear as to what not to do.

OP said that his manual is not searchable. I only recently found a pdf searchable manual by accident, like maybe 2 months back, and posted that. The link is not common compared to the old one.

Oh, his car died and restarts intermittently ? My apologies, did not read through his posts properly.

By all means, trace the actual fault and get your car back to life, but do the fuel pump now or asap as well. Yes, I would skip a few meals and starve more if that's what I had to do to get this out of the way. Anyway that's my advice.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-13-2012 at 05:22 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2013, 04:42 AM
Centrisian Centrisian is offline
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Mein Auto: 1994 525i
Sorry for the abandonment, life caught up to me and kept me thoroughly busy for the past few months.
My trusty multimeter went through everything except the CPS (I had no luck getting either end out, I must be a weakling). I deduced that since everything else read normally, it must be that, and took it to my local BMW shop and had them install it. Started like it did when I first got it.

That being said, other issues have arisen in the meantime and have me fretting over the future of my beloved E34. I'll be digging through the forums for similar issues, but if I can't find anything, I'll be posting a new thread about those issues, along with more banging my head into a wall with the abnormal wealth yet lack of information (or is it my lack of knowledge) that exists on this model.

Thanks for the friendly reminder about concluding this tale, I've got a story about a 2600 mile round trip in 3 days at the beginning of this year, but that's for another thread, another time.
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  #21  
Old 01-23-2013, 04:54 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post
Sorry for the abandonment, life caught up to me and kept me thoroughly busy for the past few months.
My trusty multimeter went through everything except the CPS (I had no luck getting either end out, I must be a weakling). I deduced that since everything else read normally, it must be that, and took it to my local BMW shop and had them install it. Started like it did when I first got it.

That being said, other issues have arisen in the meantime and have me fretting over the future of my beloved E34. I'll be digging through the forums for similar issues, but if I can't find anything, I'll be posting a new thread about those issues, along with more banging my head into a wall with the abnormal wealth yet lack of information (or is it my lack of knowledge) that exists on this model.

Thanks for the friendly reminder about concluding this tale, I've got a story about a 2600 mile round trip in 3 days at the beginning of this year, but that's for another thread, another time.
Glad you got it running. I hope the dealer didn't charge you too much to change the CPS. Looking forward to the new trip thread.
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:10 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centrisian View Post
Sorry for the abandonment, life caught up to me and kept me thoroughly busy for the past few months.
My trusty multimeter went through everything except the CPS (I had no luck getting either end out, I must be a weakling). I deduced that since everything else read normally, it must be that, and took it to my local BMW shop and had them install it. Started like it did when I first got it.

That being said, other issues have arisen in the meantime and have me fretting over the future of my beloved E34. I'll be digging through the forums for similar issues, but if I can't find anything, I'll be posting a new thread about those issues, along with more banging my head into a wall with the abnormal wealth yet lack of information (or is it my lack of knowledge) that exists on this model.

Thanks for the friendly reminder about concluding this tale, I've got a story about a 2600 mile round trip in 3 days at the beginning of this year, but that's for another thread, another time.
Glad the friendly reminder found you in good health. glad to hear about the car. Hopefully we can sort out any other issues you have with it.

Also loking forward to the trip story
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