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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 11-01-2012, 07:11 AM
Belicek Belicek is offline
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Mein Auto: 528it
Silence!

It was definitely the siren batteries. Once removed, the battery has not died once nor have the lights been seen flashing. I am once again gaining confidence that I can go to my car and it will actually start versus being met with a dead battery.

I have received the batteries and will wire them into the siren, reassemble it and install when I get time; I'll try to post pics to help explain.

Hope no one else has to go though this, but if they do, at least there will be a post to help them.
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  #52  
Old 11-01-2012, 10:54 PM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 530i (E39) 140k
That is horrible. For my car, it was a weak car battery that caused it.
Once I got a new AutoZone battery, everything was back to normal.
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  #53  
Old 11-02-2012, 10:56 AM
jeludev jeludev is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW X6 2005
I have my car alarm going on and on too. I've read an article about car alarms and code grabbers but I don't believe that someone would try to unlock my car with a grabber. Is it really possible?
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  #54  
Old 11-13-2012, 10:03 AM
Belicek Belicek is offline
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Mein Auto: 528it
Unfreaken Beleivable

I simply can not believe this POS car.

AFTER disconnecting the interior sensor, hood sensor and completely removing the siren assembly...a workmate comes to me yesterday and asks "Are you car's lights supposed to be flashing?.

Evidently there is still something activating the alarm system but I have no idea what it could be. I've read online from people stating their car had dirty metal contacts on the doors but when I looked at the entire door perimeter I did not see any.

Can anyone on this site list all of the sensors that make up the alarm system on a 528it?

Begin rant...I am so sick of this car and the myriad of problems associated with owning a BMW. Between the crap gas mileage, outrageous maintenance fees and parts prices what exactly is the allure to owning these cars? I just don't see it. Problem now is that this POS has depreciated 70% in 4 years so it's about worthless to trade in on a decent reliable car. Rant over... I now feel slightly better.
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  #55  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:00 AM
EconoBox EconoBox is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 530i (E39) 140k
Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
That is horrible. For my car, it was a weak car battery that caused it.
Once I got a new AutoZone battery, everything was back to normal.
I reiterate this.
How old is your battery?
Mine was only 2 years old.
Replace the battery.
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  #56  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:26 PM
Belicek Belicek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EconoBox View Post
I reiterate this.
How old is your battery?
Mine was only 2 years old.
Replace the battery.
I reiterate, I had the complete battery and charging system just checked...all good (battery is one year old).

No one has anything telling where the alarm sensors are? (Hood, siren, interior roof sensors have all been taken out of the picture).
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  #57  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:57 AM
salesman salesman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cagoguy View Post
Before making any assumptions and shelling out $$ on an interior sensor, try disabling the under-hood sensor. It's a hugely common problem on E39s.

Lots of discussion on it here:

Hood Sensor / Alarm issue

Try pulling the plug. See if the alarm still goes off randomly. This doesn't affect your main door/interior alarm sensors in any way.
this is what caused my alarm to go off when i first bought my car. i just unplugged it too. hasn't gone off randomly since then
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  #58  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:51 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
  • Check if the battery is loose.
  • Replace the battery with a new one.
  • Detach hood sensor.
  • Check door latches/sensors
  • Disable motion sensor by press key locking button twice
  • Detach inside motion sensor
  • Unplug fuse #48 in trunk
Based on this thread today, we can add a check for the fuel filler door being ajar due to a non-standard (too large) gas cap:

> E39 (1997 - 2003) > fuel door actuator alarm falsing
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #59  
Old 04-26-2014, 07:28 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 528i
In reply to: "I've read online from people stating their car had dirty metal contacts on the doors but when I looked at the entire door perimeter I did not see any."

The door switches are part of the assembly the door hooks onto when it closes. Look closely and feel, there's a small bump that clicks when pushed in. All 4 doors.
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  #60  
Old 08-03-2014, 12:23 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the record, this thread was opened today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Component identification
Quote:
Originally Posted by vclifford View Post
What is this piece in photographs ? For last couple of months it was making knocking sounds against roof when moon roof was fully open. I stuffed some foam tape between ceiling and housing. Let's see how it goes

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app

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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #61  
Old 08-03-2014, 12:28 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
By way of cross reference, an interesting thread was opened yesterday which has a lot of useful information in it ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyNgu View Post
Hey, I got a BMW E39 -00 and like the title says; I have no battery in my keys and I cant turn my alarm off. I dont have a alarm thats making sound, but the turn lights wont stop blinking. And if i let the car stand for like 15 min, its stops, but once I do something, like open the door, start the engine, the turn lights starts to blink again. So how do I turn this of when i dont have any battery on my keys?
Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
EWS isn't the alarm siren system...it's the immobilizing system. DWA is the alarm siren sysetm...and FZV is the central locking system. They all are features of the remote keys....and many owners confuse or conflate these 3 functions into one.

They all are independent systems that work in tandem or conjunction with each other. EWS doesn't require the battery inside the key...it is self powered through induction...and a 125 KHz AM signal that is sent from the EWS control module to the Ring Antenna around the ignition. EWS though, does send a signal to the GM that does tell it that the correct EWS key has been used and this can release the UNLOCK (double-lock) feature as well as turn off the alarm siren if the emergency deactivation is required.

DWA & FZV features of the key require the battery to transmit the 315 MHz (No America) or 433 MHz (Europe) radio frequency to the receiver in the C pillar, which then sends a signal to the GM. From there data is sent to the DWA monitors (sensor) and to the central locking system actuators.

Back to the flashing lights only...that is usually a sign of low battery voltage. And when you wrote that the car has sat for a while with the battery disconnected...you don't mention if the battery was kept on a charger or if you recharged it when you put it back in the car.

If you've unlocked the OBC...you can run TEST 9 and see what the battery voltage is...or if you have a meter...test the battery's voltage . If a battery with no surface charge is reading at 11.89 volts...then it is at 0% state of charge...it may have enough juice to run some electronics but you may begin to see odd electrical gremlins as the voltage continues to drop.

Give your battery a good long charge at approx 2 amps for about 20 hours...or 6-10 amps at approx 10-15 hours.

Here's some info below on the DWA system...hopefully it will help some forum members understand the difference between EWS, DWA, and FZV:





Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
If an E book can download and open PDFs...then here's a link to a long list of BMW docs...which is different than the TIS...but very informative in that it goes into greater detail about various systems and BMW technologies: http://www.bmwmotorsports.org/BMW_docs/

Even if some of the docs have a model name in it (like X5)...if it's about a BMW system and not model specific...it generally will cover the other BMW models that are of the same generation.

Happy reading.
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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