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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #151  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:44 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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For cross-reference purpose, "perelet" from bimmerforums today posted a nice DIY dropping the subframe down: which is a 10h (or all weekend job) for the purists who don't want to cut the gasket.

This is in contrast to "Mudbone" technique (cutting the gasket and patch the cut area with RTV sealant).

Here is the DIY by "perelet" from bimmerforums:


E39 6cyl oil pan gasket replacement illustrated:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1823697
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  #152  
Old 04-26-2012, 01:34 PM
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mawana mawana is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Too hard to tell where your leak is coming from since the oil pan tilts towards the right side on the M54. If the RMS is leaking, it could end up on the right side where you have identified it. If it is any other leak towards the front of the engine, it could travel along the seam and end up there too.

My oil pan gasket leak was directly below the RMS. This is also where the distance between two oil pan bolts is the greatest.

The easiest way to see if it is the RMS or not, is to use the open port on the bottom of the bell housing. It's hard to look so take some q-tips and start swabbing around. You probably will not be able to look unless you have a tactical camera but the q-tip maybe the best method.

Clean it up well then go for a drive to see. Those auto part stores also have that fluorescent die you can use, but I would rather not go that route unless the leak was too hard to diagnose visually.
Did you fix it via the gasket cutting method?
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  #153  
Old 04-26-2012, 01:45 PM
genuity genuity is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mawana View Post
Did you fix it via the gasket cutting method?
Dropped the subframe:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...80&postcount=6

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...95&postcount=7

Replied to your PM.
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  #154  
Old 05-06-2012, 05:33 PM
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mawana mawana is offline
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Originally Posted by genuity View Post
Thanks a lot - am trying to see if anyone with an e46 went this route and what issues they faced! I don't think I have the balls to drop all that stuff.....
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  #155  
Old 06-20-2012, 12:44 PM
M500E M500E is offline
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Thanks to everyone for this thread. I just did my OFH o-ring, Vanos, and rear subframe bushings on my 232K touring, all last weekend! I was dismayed to see that my oil pan was my biggest oil leak, leaking virtually everywhere on the passenger side pan/block junction. I will properly drop the front subframe and remove the pan entirely at some point when the control arms and motor mounts need replacement. However, I wanted to present yet another option to fix this problem, and NO disassembly is necessary (other than splash shield)!!

There is a product available at many auto parts stores (and Home Depot last time I was there) called Seal All Adhesive. It's the only adhesive I've ever seen that is truly gas and oil resistant. This stuff is NO JOKE. I have used it successfully on a leaking gas tank with 100% success. I figured if it can seal a leaking gas tank, sealing a leaky oil pan gasket would be a no-brainer. I was right.

I cleaned the seam between the pan and block very thoroughly with brake cleaner. I then squeezed about half a tube of Seal All into a small container and "painted" the length of the pan/block junction with the Seal All. I used it very generously, but you shouldn't need to lay it on as thick as I did (I used only a few thin coats to seal the gas tank). I let it sit overnight and there have been no leaks since!

It dries quite hard, but you can chip it off easily with a scraper in the future if you have occasion to remove the pan and replace the gasket. I highly recommend this product! It makes a great adhesive as well.

Happy wrenching,
Gregg
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  #156  
Old 06-21-2012, 08:02 AM
macgy macgy is offline
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Hey, i have that in my store!, bought 2 years ago but never get to use it, seriously, it works?, does it last?, did u seal only those section that leak? / whole section around d pan? Thanks for sharing.
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  #157  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:05 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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M500E,
Yes, I guess that is a "solution", but it looks pretty "ghetto" IMO.
I would never do that to my car.
Do it right, do it once.
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  #158  
Old 06-21-2012, 11:47 AM
M500E M500E is offline
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Macgy,

You only need apply it where the pan is actually leaking. Clean the area very well with brake cleaner first. As I said, I over-applied it; however, who really cares, as no one will see it except you. The product sealed a gas tank on an Alfa Romeo that I owned and showed no signs of failure after several years.

Jason5driver,

What did I "do" to my car specifically? Your reaction makes it sound as if some permanent damage was done to the car; quite the contrary, it is preventing damage and is 100% reversible upon disassembly of the pan. I recommend everyone carry a tube of this product in the glovebox; it will stop virtually any leak that is likely to occur if on a trip or in a remote area.

As I said, this stuff is NOT epoxy or JB Weld; once you break the bond you can pull it right off with your fingers. It's a perfectly sound solution to not only keep oil off the floor, but keep it from slinging all over the bottom of the car and ruining other rubber components until one is ready to tackle the entire repair.

You are right - do it right, do it once - when other front end components are sloppy enough to warrant dropping the subframe, the gasket will be replaced in the truly proper manner - with oil pan removed. The main reason I insist on dropping it completely is I'm not going to let my old gasket disintegrate into my oil pan with no room to properly clean it out.

BTW, I work as a Mechanical Design Engineer and pride myself on being absolutely fastidious with a very high attention to to detail. I can also appreciate a no-brainer fix when it's staring me in the face. I thoroughly cleaned the whole underside of the car last weekend during the subframe bushing/oil filter housing/vanos/inspection II service. Four days later completely sanitary under there
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  #159  
Old 07-09-2012, 03:34 AM
darinbrooks darinbrooks is offline
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Thank you for this post. I replaced my oil pan gasket using Mudbone's procedure and it worked great. Thanks!!!
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  #160  
Old 07-23-2012, 02:55 AM
amen amen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M500E View Post
Macgy,

You only need apply it where the pan is actually leaking. Clean the area very well with brake cleaner first. As I said, I over-applied it; however, who really cares, as no one will see it except you. The product sealed a gas tank on an Alfa Romeo that I owned and showed no signs of failure after several years.

Jason5driver,

What did I "do" to my car specifically? Your reaction makes it sound as if some permanent damage was done to the car; quite the contrary, it is preventing damage and is 100% reversible upon disassembly of the pan. I recommend everyone carry a tube of this product in the glovebox; it will stop virtually any leak that is likely to occur if on a trip or in a remote area.

As I said, this stuff is NOT epoxy or JB Weld; once you break the bond you can pull it right off with your fingers. It's a perfectly sound solution to not only keep oil off the floor, but keep it from slinging all over the bottom of the car and ruining other rubber components until one is ready to tackle the entire repair.

You are right - do it right, do it once - when other front end components are sloppy enough to warrant dropping the subframe, the gasket will be replaced in the truly proper manner - with oil pan removed. The main reason I insist on dropping it completely is I'm not going to let my old gasket disintegrate into my oil pan with no room to properly clean it out.

BTW, I work as a Mechanical Design Engineer and pride myself on being absolutely fastidious with a very high attention to to detail. I can also appreciate a no-brainer fix when it's staring me in the face. I thoroughly cleaned the whole underside of the car last weekend during the subframe bushing/oil filter housing/vanos/inspection II service. Four days later completely sanitary under there
M500E
how's the seal holding up, I am interested in your method as a temp solution. thanks
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  #161  
Old 07-24-2012, 11:45 AM
darinbrooks darinbrooks is offline
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Mine is working great. 2 weeks now and no leaks.
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  #162  
Old 07-24-2012, 06:16 PM
amen amen is offline
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Originally Posted by darinbrooks View Post
Mine is working great. 2 weeks now and no leaks.
how many cuts you made, and where, thanks
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  #163  
Old 07-24-2012, 07:00 PM
darinbrooks darinbrooks is offline
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I made two cuts. Look at post #4 for the location of the cuts. I used Permatex Ultra Copper for the sealant.
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  #164  
Old 07-25-2012, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbone View Post
And now for Bluebee's sake, some “higher math” - Gob = 3X dab
This TIS screenshot seems to describe the 'glob' as 3mm wide by 2mm high glob of Drei Bond 1209.

> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil pan gasket!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
TIS says to use sealant at 4 joint points. See attached screen shot.
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #165  
Old 11-09-2012, 02:14 PM
eerener eerener is offline
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I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket of my 2001 325i in two weeks based on cutting the gasket method. I will also have an opportunity to use a lift of a DIY shop. Wish me luck
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  #166  
Old 11-09-2012, 03:21 PM
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ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
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Originally Posted by eerener View Post
I'm going to replace the oil pan gasket of my 2001 325i in two weeks based on cutting the gasket method. I will also have an opportunity to use a lift of a DIY shop. Wish me luck
I didn't cut the gasket when I did an m54-powered 325. Just brace the engine from above, disconnect the motor mounts, loosen the subframe bolts and let the subframe drop until the struts catch it and you can snake the gasket by the oil sump. The steering coupler doesn't even need to be disconnected.

See my post earlier in this thread.
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  #167  
Old 11-10-2012, 06:35 AM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
I didn't cut the gasket when I did an m54-powered 325. Just brace the engine from above, disconnect the motor mounts, loosen the subframe bolts and let the subframe drop until the struts catch it and you can snake the gasket by the oil sump. The steering coupler doesn't even need to be disconnected.

See my post earlier in this thread.
Awesome information...!
You need to post here more often....

Thanks!
Jason
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  #168  
Old 11-10-2012, 01:37 PM
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ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
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Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Awesome information...!
You need to post here more often....

Thanks!
Jason
Post when it counts

I am a partner in indy BMW shop here in South Forida, but about 90% of our clientele is e30's, though.
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  #169  
Old 11-13-2012, 01:16 PM
eerener eerener is offline
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Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
I didn't cut the gasket when I did an m54-powered 325. Just brace the engine from above, disconnect the motor mounts, loosen the subframe bolts and let the subframe drop until the struts catch it and you can snake the gasket by the oil sump. The steering coupler doesn't even need to be disconnected.

See my post earlier in this thread.
Good idea but, I don't think I can do this, I'm not pro
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  #170  
Old 11-13-2012, 02:29 PM
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ForcedFirebird ForcedFirebird is offline
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Originally Posted by eerener View Post
Good idea but, I don't think I can do this, I'm not pro
You said you have access to a shop. All the shops I know of have an engine hoist and/or engine brace. It will make your life much easier to hold the engine in place and drop the sub-frame.
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  #171  
Old 11-13-2012, 04:08 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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i must to sign on this thread , need to do this job this winter
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  #172  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:30 AM
eerener eerener is offline
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Originally Posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
You said you have access to a shop. All the shops I know of have an engine hoist and/or engine brace. It will make your life much easier to hold the engine in place and drop the sub-frame.
can you lift the car with the engine hoist?
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  #173  
Old 11-14-2012, 11:42 AM
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can you lift the car with the engine hoist?

You can, yes, but that's how you would go about it. Use the hoist to keep the motor in place while letting down the sub-frame.


I have used a cherry picker to lift cars off the engine cradle, though lol..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/100_7918.jpg
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  #174  
Old 12-06-2012, 11:41 PM
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Folks, I just completed the gasket replacement but had to drop the subframe. It's actually easy once the engine is lifted with the $60 brace from harborfrieght. Yes, it's easy and I see no need for taking shortcuts which I believe would in the end turn out to be a very difficult process given the tight space in the oil pan area. I had to unmount the powersteering pump (without disconnecting the hoses) and disconnect the driver side stabilizer link and control arm (easy to do and all in less than an hour).

The rubber on the old gasket was very brittle and very hard to remove such that I just can't imagine this job being done without dropping the subframe far enough. I had to put plastic paper over the open oil pan to prevent the brittle rubber from dropping into the pan while doing the difficult cleaning process.

I changed the engine mounts while at it.

After the job I treated myself to mugs of nice cold beer as there were no leaks after a long test drive.

E39 528, 170k miles.
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Last edited by musa; 12-07-2012 at 12:25 AM.
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  #175  
Old 12-18-2012, 03:23 PM
eerener eerener is offline
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Originally Posted by musa View Post
Folks, I just completed the gasket replacement but had to drop the subframe. It's actually easy once the engine is lifted with the $60 brace from harborfrieght. Yes, it's easy and I see no need for taking shortcuts which I believe would in the end turn out to be a very difficult process given the tight space in the oil pan area. I had to unmount the powersteering pump (without disconnecting the hoses) and disconnect the driver side stabilizer link and control arm (easy to do and all in less than an hour).

The rubber on the old gasket was very brittle and very hard to remove such that I just can't imagine this job being done without dropping the subframe far enough. I had to put plastic paper over the open oil pan to prevent the brittle rubber from dropping into the pan while doing the difficult cleaning process.

I changed the engine mounts while at it.

After the job I treated myself to mugs of nice cold beer as there were no leaks after a long test drive.

E39 528, 170k miles.
Great job Musa, congrats.
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